Best Rust Treatment

[gadgetgricey]

Now being the proud owner of a LR Discovery, I need to gen up on rust treatment (and possibly learn welding  ).

 

Quite a bit of surface rust on the inner wheel arches that I want to treat before it gets any worse.

 

Going to sand back and then apply something, possibly some Loctite 7503., and then paint with something for added protection. (I think I have some waxoyl spray in a couple of cans to use)

 

Just wondered if this was any good, or if there were other recommendations.

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[the judge]

I use am anti corrosion spray on my motorbike which is fantastic,but dear. Something doc?? Is this krujoes old one? Always fancied one,never had a go though. Is it good to drive?

[dollywobbler]

Rub back, use rust converter (Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80 is one but I think Mat_the_cat prefers the Deox gel). Then zinc primer, then paint and a dose of anti-corrosion wax on top if possible - not necessarily something you want on the rear wheelarches of a Disco as it could end up on people's clothes. Have you lifted the boot carpet yet?

[steve_earwig]

And now the screaming starts...

[Bren]

This

 

-

[saucedoctor]

I've used Deox Gel with pretty decent results.

 

 

[gadgetgricey]

Have you lifted the boot carpet yet?

 

Yes, and put it straight back down again. Out of site, out of mind for the moment 

[skattrd]

Aha would this be the Disco from family krujoe?

[MrDuke]

Post-treatment, I hear Dinitrol is better than Waxoyl.

[Magnificent Rustbucket]

There is a poster on the XJ40 forum who Dinitrolled his Rover SD1, back when he got it in the mid 1980s. It has been parked outside his house ever since (never garaged) - and it has no visible rust!

[sierraman]

I've used all sorts of rust converters, found of the commonly available type, Loctite to be the best. As with anything like this preparation is key, it pays to get any corrosion back to bare metal with the drill or a grinder, treat, allow to dry then give it 2 thorough coats promptly of Zinc 182, followed by top coat or if its hidden you could do worse than some stone chip followed by a coat of Waxoyl or similar. Follow this and you shouldn't go far wrong.

 

A lot of people slag off certain brands of whatever but a lot of the time products fail as people have hurriedly applied it or failed to prepare the surface appropriately.

[gadgetgricey]

Aha would this be the Disco from family krujoe?

You are bang on.......

 

Already got a list of things to do this weekend, mainly giving it a good clean. Change the thermostat, refix the rear mirror, and delete the EGR recirc valve.

If I get chance I might do some rust prep, but possibly not.

 

The only downside so far, its its rather bottom clenching when you find a load of standing water on the Motorway at 75.

An experience I do not want to relive soon......

[HMC]

I know the chassis on these aren't a particular weak point, unlike other models ( disco 2 I'm looking at you) but I can recommend dynax s50 for the main rail internals. They come as a 750ml aerosol with a long extension lance, with all the pre drilled openings it's easy ( and quite satisfying) to lob a fine coating of it inside.

[mat_the_cat]

Rub back, use rust converter (Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80 is one but I think Mat_the_cat prefers the Deox gel).

 

To be pedantic the Deox is a rust remover, not a converter like the Hydrate 80. So will remove the rust back to shiny steel if left on for long enough - the worry with *any* type of converter is how deep it penetrates into the rust pits. The surface may be converted into a stable oxide but that's of little use if there s unconverted rust underneath...

 

Then it simply becomes a job of protecting the good metal better than the factory paint for a long life. This won't matter if realistically the vehicle only has a few years of useful life left, in which case the 'best' solution may be something quicker.

 

Using a converter means that you can judge a product instantly, rather than waiting a few years to see whether rust comes back - if it comes back it's a failing of the paint system rather than the rust treatment - with a converter it could be either at fault. Also, you know whether you've applied it correctly - if you can still see rust then you have done something wrong!

 

A couple of before 'n after photos:

 

 

 

[drum]

I got a gallon of phosphoric acid and brushed it onto in of my Land Rover chassis after much flap disking. It got rid of the rust I couldn't reach in pitted metal etc.

[Minimad5]

Interesting thread !
Having took delivery of a 'solid' shell which was kindly delivered uncovered in the snow, it's flashed over with tonnes of surface rust, so i shall be giving these products a try.
Alternatively - Soda Blasting, anyone tried it ?

[KruJoe]

A man from shiteland called Gricey

Wanted a Disco, not pricey.

He came on the train,

Drove home in the rain;

The bodywork really is dicey...

 

The wheel arches are rusting,

The boot floor is disgusting,

Dave's long job list,

To make it resist

MOT screwdriver thrusting.

 

Did we tell you it's mucky?

I mean properly yucky.

Just being candid,

It's thoroughly rancid!

Is our man mad or just plucky?