Project What has two seats, a mid-mounted 6 cylinder engine, and a turbo? Rewire complete - finally success!

[mat_the_cat]

In the excitement of getting another pass I forgot to mention that my heart sank slightly when I dropped it off. They were having a DVSA inspection so half expected them to be really picky on it. At least I can be confident they didn't miss anything!

[bezzabsa]

On 12/13/2014 at 11:51 AM, purplebargeken said:

Tramadol. Yuck, hateful stuff. Shudder.

Been on 200MG twice a day for 11 years, been asking docs to swap me to summat else - but they reckon whatever they swap me to will lead to licence losing due to potency!!!

[mat_the_cat]

There's a lot more information on the charging system here, but in a nutshell I hadn't previously realised just how much the battery voltage (and hence internal resistance) affected the charging rate from the alternator. When the batteries are flat you get quite a reasonable current, but this continues to drop throughout the charging process. It didn't help that the alternator output voltage was just below 14V, and there are further drops in the circuit.

I've replaced the regulator with a 14.5V version, and this has improved the charging current across the board, although still tapers to almost nothing in the last 10% of charge. I've got hold of a bargain alternator to battery charger, which artificially drags down the alternator output voltage to ensure it provides maximum current. Then steps up this voltage to the optimum level depending on the state of charge in the batteries. For £50 it seemed a bargain (they are getting on for 10x this new) and if all else fails I can probably weigh it in for a similar amount given the weight of copper in it (that's an M8 stud for scale)!

We're going away in it very shortly, so I'm reluctant to install it straight away. But I have made some quick improvements to the wiring to reduce the voltage drop, and also doubled up the outputs from the on-board charger. It's got 2x 12.5A and 1x 2A; previously I had one 12.5A for the LBs and the other for the starter battery. Now I've used the 2A output for the SB, and can potentially get 25A into the LBs when we stop at a campsite.

I've also replaced the front tyres, as we'll be doing a fair few miles. Went for the same Toyos as last time as they seem to be lasting well.

Edited June 8, 2023 by mat_the_cat

[RichardK]

On 5/18/2023 at 5:15 PM, bezzabsa said:

Been on 200MG twice a day for 11 years, been asking docs to swap me to summat else - but they reckon whatever they swap me to will lead to licence losing due to potency!!!

*raises eyebrow*

Everyone's different but I found oxycodone worked very well and zero issues of "potency" - and I absolutely hated tramadol, needed loads for pain dissociation (relief is just nonsense) but brain fogged after three days.

Local pharmacy is promoting cannabis based therapies. That's the only other thing that worked (medical grade, legal, edible in Portland US).

It's got to be worth them trying once. I rarely need a 5mg oxy - like, breakthrough pain only - whereas tramadol was just rubbish. Again, depending on type of pain/your ability to filter etc.

[artdjones]

On 5/14/2023 at 11:24 PM, mat_the_cat said:

I can only think that something is happening dynamically to upset the alignment, which is not picked up on a static check.

Maybe the rear wishbone bushes are soft?

I would recommend a Trakrite gauge, which is the cheapest way to check what's actually happening while the vehicle is moving .

https://www.thetoolacademy.com/gunson-g4008-trakrite-wheel-alignment-gauge-14397-p.asp

[mat_the_cat]

That's surprisingly cheap, but the wear pattern suggests a camber problem, which I don't think this is designed to pick up.

I should add that this has been happening for at least 90k miles, in which time I've had the alignment checked 3 times, twice after replacing the (front) wishbone bushes. It effectively means I have to replace the front tyres early, as they only last a similar time to the driven rears.

[mat_the_cat]

We've made it nearly 1000 miles into France now, and all seems well. I loaded it up with the Stellar gearbox, and dropped that off on the way.

Importantly I've got a new UK sticker to replace the old GB one!

First night in France was in a quiet (and free!) aire we've stayed at before. Next to a lake and nature reserve, and the neighbouring campsite lets you use the facilities for a Euro.

Having the battery monitor has enabled me to see exactly what is going on. It's possible to 100% charge the LB bank with the alternator alone, but takes way longer than I'd have thought. And if the AC is on, this drags the voltage down to a level which they will never fully charge, around 92-93%. I suspect this would have been a lot lower with the old 13.8V regulator installed.

Today we visited a chateau in Savigny les Beaune, which had a load of Abarth cars in a museum on the grounds.

As well as planes...

...fire engines:

and literally hundreds of motorbikes! Well worth a visit if you're in the area.

[High Jetter]

25 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

Importantly I've got a new UK sticker to replace the old GB one!

Yeller background? Is that the norm now?

[mat_the_cat]

13 hours ago, High Jetter said:

Yeller background? Is that the norm now?

The yellowness is just the lighting on the Eurotunnel. The only difference (usually) is UK rather than GB, although mine has a subtle difference to the normal ones...

[loserone]

That's brilliant, got a source?

A

Edit: assume here: https://www.euflagmafia.com/product/ukfuckbrexitcarsticker

[mat_the_cat]

That's the one, yes.

We've now made it down to our destination, and looking at it on the map does seem like a long way from home in a 30 year old, high mileage vehicle.

It might sound strange, but my confidence (in my own mechanical checks, as much as in the vehicle), really took a knock after the clutch problem earlier this year. To have something fail with no warning, which was impossible to check for, was not good in a vehicle that I'd always considered complain reliable. Starting to relax a little bit now though.

Temperatures are high, and mountainous roads not ideally suited to a van, but suspension, engine and brakes have coped with the workout.

 

This was us parked up at 1500 metres elevation for a night, and almost had to use the heater as the temperature dropped rapidly!

We're a lot lower now, and night time minimums are mid-20s so rather warm! Our dog is enjoying it too, especially when she can smell the barbecue!

As ever in France, further south there are more interesting spots, although less each year.

[mat_the_cat]

We're back home now after 2210 miles, but not without drama! I was driving along, and suddenly heard an awful grinding noise from the offside front wheel, as if a bearing had collapsed. I pulled over, fearing the worst, although strangely couldn't feel any play. Off with the wheel to investigate.

To my huge relief it was just a stone wedged between disc and shield!

A few more interesting spots:

We parked up by an abandoned wild west themed bar...

...which hadn't been completely destroyed inside.

Found a fantastic spot by the Loire, where we had a barbecue and watched the sun set

Now I'm home I've wired in the Sterling charger, starting with running a cable directly from the alternator. I've gone for 16 sq mm cable as it was an upgrade over the standard 10 sq mm, and I had some spare!

The extra black wire is a temperature sensor, which will reduce the charging output if the alternator gets too hot. Hopefully not an issue, as it has a cold air duct as standard.

Then from the charger I have two more cables leading to the starter battery and leisure batteries respectively.

Time to fire it up, and it works!

Instead of the charge current rapidly dropping off, it remains much higher so it looks like it'll be much faster charging the LBs.

 

 

[mat_the_cat]

Nothing to add apart from a photo from the holiday...

[mat_the_cat]

Update on the Sterling charger is that it really does work a treat. Charging from 95 to 100% previously took around 300 miles to complete, but now it's ~40 miles. Before I fitted the battery monitor I'd have had no idea, both of the state of charge and the slow charging rate. I've also discovered that the Afterburner controller draws around 0.3A, which is fairly significant when parked up for a few weeks.

We've recently had to say goodbye to our dog so the house feels rather empty, so we've been getting out and about a bit more than usual. Some lovely quiet spots to sit and watch the sun set.

[twosmoke300]

Sad news about the dog 🥲

[mat_the_cat]

It's been a while since I updated this, but it took us to Scotland in October where we had some glorious, and some not so glorious weather!

I almost went away in it around Christmas, but I noticed an awful smell after parking up for a couple of weeks, which I took to be the waste water tank. After much cleaning and disinfecting the smell returned after the next long drive (a birthday trip in January). I then twigged it was a battery gassing off excessively, and more than the ventilation could cope with. One of the LBs was actually warm to the touch, so I isolated it and the smell went! We found a nice isolated car park over the border in Shropshire to park up for the night, and did some sightseeing, walking and running.

Unfortunately on the return journey a pheasant flew up just as we drove by, and the windscreen shattered.

I am already planning mission creep, as the A pillar welded repairs I did in 2007 have started to rust again and I'm expecting to have to redo them. Back then it was only a few pinholes which I plug welded up, and to be fair have lasted longer than filler would have done.

[mat_the_cat]

Not one to rush a job I've made a start on the A pillars. I was right, there was more rust hidden!

But I've already bought the A pillars, which I initially thought would be all I needed. However the lower panel has also holed through in places, so will need to find one of those, or make up a repair strip from some angle section. 

I've cut out the worst of the rot now but am leaving the lower bit until I know what I can replace it with, as that will dictate where I cut. Also need to fix the welder before I can do anything!

At least it makes it easier to replace the aerial now!

[mat_the_cat]

Big shout out to https://www.weldingdirect.co.uk/ who had a new control board on the shelf for a 10 year old Chinese welder, and only £26!

Back to the LT, and I cut back a bit more of the pillar which had been thinned by rust. It's very little extra work to weld in a larger section, compared with battling constantly blowing through. I didn't want to use the whole repair panel though.

Reason being to weld in the top it would be quite tricky welding in the roof gutter, and potentially difficult to seal well again afterwards. So I wasted most of the panel and just cut out what I needed. 

Unfortunately I had to leave it there as despite wearing goggles I got something in my eye, so writing this post from hospital. 

 

[mat_the_cat]

Well, that was a pleasant surprise! 20 minutes on the dot from entering hospital until leaving! Only a few minutes wait on a Friday night was not what I expected. All out now although a bit sore.

The thing I can't  understand is how the spark got inside my goggles. It's not the first time, which I put down to coming through the vent holes. But these new googles have a convoluted path which should prevent that happening. 

[juular]

11 hours ago, mat_the_cat said:

Well, that was a pleasant surprise! 20 minutes on the dot from entering hospital until leaving! Only a few minutes wait on a Friday night was not what I expected. All out now although a bit sore.

The thing I can't  understand is how the spark got inside my goggles. It's not the first time, which I put down to coming through the vent holes. But these new googles have a convoluted path which should prevent that happening. 

This has happened to me too,  I don't know how the shards manage to get through so easily. 

I've started holding grinders almost sideways to keep the spark trail heading away from me, because I've noticed my specs with plastic lenses are covered with melted bits with embedded metal shards. I've been lucky it hasn't been worse.

Glad you got it seen to quickly.

[mat_the_cat]

This is the 5th time now for me! The first was my own fault for only wearing glasses rather than goggles, and once was unlucky when I flipped the welding mask up too early to get a faceful of cooling sparks. I've even taken to closing my eyes whenever possible.

For the section below the windscreen I did wonder about buying a complete panel again:
https://coastalmotorhomes.co.uk/volkswagen-lt-front-scuttle-panel-1975-1996.html

But it's a little different cutting up a £30 panel versus a £100 one! There is a little curvature in both directions, but I'm pretty sure it will be simple to make it out of a  standard angle section:
https://www.the-aluminium-shop.co.uk/galvanised-steel-angle?

I generally prefer welding in proper hot-dip galvanised steel, especially when overlaps are involved. I do tend to use weld-through primer, but I figure that if moisture is going to potentially sit between two layers, it's going to be vastly better to have a layer of zinc metal rather than a layer of paint. Just have to be a bit careful with the fumes, and grind back a bit before welding.

[mat_the_cat]

I've now trimmed the repair section for the other side. I'd wanted to have the joint on the curved section under the seal, both for neatness and also to minimise distortion. However on the passenger side I needed to cut out that little bit more, as the metal was quite thin.

I've also cleaned up both sides ready for welding; I've since painted with weld through primer but didn't get a photo.

[mat_the_cat]

Primed and ready to weld in:

Ideally I'd have left the aerial off, but access is incredibly restricted behind - the original poked through from the back and was tightened from the outside, but all I can find to replace it need tightening from the rear. I'm hoping I can reach the back to tighten, but don't rate my chances of actually threading the nut on!

Then began the long process of welding it in, swapping sides regularly to allow to cool.

Driver's side is done...

...but I ran out of gas when the passenger side was almost complete

I didn't quite cut it perfectly at the bottom, so need to bridge the gap with weld.

[mat_the_cat]

I've finished off both pillars now, and cut away the rusty lower lip. Ahhhh.

The inner panel is in a similar state. I will have to rethink my plan, but reckon I'll have to cut out more of the front panel for access - which means it'll be more difficult to neatly weld in a length of standard angle section. However I can probably use that to weld in a functional repair to the hidden panel, and buy the proper repair panel for the visible outer repair.

[Minimad5]

Well done for not just slapping a load of filler on this 👏 

Neat looking repairs too 

[juular]

11 hours ago, mat_the_cat said:

I've finished off both pillars now, and cut away the rusty lower lip. Ahhhh.

The inner panel is in a similar state. I will have to rethink my plan, but reckon I'll have to cut out more of the front panel for access - which means it'll be more difficult to neatly weld in a length of standard angle section. However I can probably use that to weld in a functional repair to the hidden panel, and buy the proper repair panel for the visible outer repair.

Liked for the doing it properly approach.

If you cut off more of the outer panel, can you not weld it back on once you're done, then continue with the angle section repair? 

If you cut it out with a thin 0.8mm disc it'll fit back together beautifully. 

[Dick Cheeseburger]

Neat work, Matt. I'd be inclined to relocate that aerial though...

[mat_the_cat]

10 hours ago, Dick Longbridge said:

Neat work, Matt. I'd be inclined to relocate that aerial though...

Go on, why...? I have fitted one to the roof and end up twanging it regularly so planning to go back to the original position.

[mat_the_cat]

10 hours ago, juular said:

Liked for the doing it properly approach.

If you cut off more of the outer panel, can you not weld it back on once you're done, then continue with the angle section repair? 

If you cut it out with a thin 0.8mm disc it'll fit back together beautifully. 

That's something I didn't consider, but I'm finding it tricky to bend the angle section to the curvature required. It could be done easily with a stretcher, which I don't have. I think I'd have to make several slits and weld them back up afterwards, so it could still be done although I'm tempted by the lazy option!

[Tickman]

A shrinker/ stretcher is a great bit of kit if you are trying to manipulate metal about.

Well worth the investment and always in demand if you wanted to sell on again