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Jumbuck two - Shite at offroading


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Posted

No, I mean the bearing that carries the lever that the slave cylinder pushes on. I don't know anything about your Proton's clutch in particular but the lever/ clutch fork bearings can be an issue in some cars.

 

It should be free to wiggle a bit and not stiff, might not be able to tell with the slave cylinder in place.

Posted

I just don't understand how it could seize after driving it around for a day...

Posted

Sounds like master cylinder to me. Pump the pedal until it goes hard then release the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. If there is pressure there without the pedal being pressed it will be the master cylinder. If not it's gearbox out time I am afraid, the problem will then become apparent

  • Like 2
Posted

Yeah, that sounds like the bearing or bushes or whatever it uses are seizing up.

At this point, no harm in trying a vast amount of Duck oil or plusgas or other penetrating fluid where the shaft goes into the box - also try tapping it with a hammer and levering it upwards, working it back and forth, up and down....chances are it will need to be done properly though, which is likely to need the box off.

  • Like 2
Posted

X1/9's are terrible for this, as are MGF's. Steel clutch shaft through a alloy housing, usually with a plastic bush which either wears away, cracks or just gets overcome by corrosion. The hydraulics put a huge amount of pressure to force the clutch lever which will just stick if pushing straight so you lose the clutch, if the slave pushrod is slightly at an angle, it will take the path of least resistance, pop off the lever and dump the fluid all over the box. The normal way of getting it operational is to have someone working the clutch pedal, and someone forcing the lever back under the bonnet with a long bar, after lubing down the clutch shaft as much as possible and tapping up and down to try and clear a bit of the corrosion. If this dowesn't free it off, then its box out...

  • Like 1
Posted

I just don't understand how it could seize after driving it around for a day...

My MGF sat for a few weeks, ran fine for a couple of weeks then tightened up giving the same issues you have.

  • Like 1
Posted

Also bear in mind that if you do mange to free it off, you are only really buying a little more time.....days...weeks....a couple of months maybe.... so an ideal time to flog it off quick sharp to some unsuspecting punter, which may very well be what the previous owner did to you.

Posted

You can take the slave cylinder off and move the clutch fork back and forth to see if it's seized.

The fork has a clip which operates like a fulcrum. I don't reckon it's seized if it's moving.

If it has, you can get some grease in there on a long length of metal or something and apply to the input shaft.

Posted

Change the flexi.

 

It will have died internally, and is a much quicker/ cheaper option . I'd be suprised if that didn't improve it , or even sort it

Posted

If you pushed down, it stuck down and stalled the engine... release bearing worn to nothing, release fork worn down against springs, slave coming out too far and fluid leaking past seals, with the thing being hard to push back possibly from being out of it's normal range of motion and wrecked the bushes?

 

I'd be wanting to eyeball inside, even if through small gaps or inspection holes if there are any.

 

Speculation, but depressing the clutch and stalling an engine has always been very clutch fork/springs interaction before in my experience*.

 

Is the clutch noisy if you push the pedal gently?

 

Phil

 

* not as much as many people on here. Treat my opinion like you would the guy down the pub who knows about cars.

  • Like 1
Posted

I changed a blocked clutch flexi this week actually. On a 70 maserati quattroporte of all things.

Posted

Change the flexi.

 

It will have died internally, and is a much quicker/ cheaper option . I'd be suprised if that didn't improve it , or even sort it

 

I'll give that a go!

Posted

Panhard's test above would also show this up.......proceed with due thought and save money!

Posted

New slave cylinder seals are torn to shreds, the piston is scored and doesn't move in and out smoothly and the fork is stuck seized in place... Add to that smoke coming from the gearbox when the car is running I'm beginning to think this is a lost cause.

 

This photo sums it up

 

Constant trips to the bank...

 

16070695281_d182d76030_c.jpgSomeone else's problem! by srblythe, on Flickr

Posted

Foad man, whatever it is, it cant be terribly complicated to fix, at worst you need £75 worth of secondhand proton gearbox, at best you need some hydraulic seals or a flexi hose. If this is too much of an ordeal how do you expect to get anywhere with that utterly banjaxed FSO pick-up. I want to see this Jumbuck fixed and road tested with a full report on my desk by Xmas morning. Now get to work!!!

Posted

Foad man, whatever it is, it cant be terribly complicated to fix, at worst you need £75 worth of secondhand proton gearbox, at best you need some hydraulic seals or a flexi hose. If this is too much of an ordeal how do you expect to get anywhere with that utterly banjaxed FSO pick-up. I want to see this Jumbuck fixed and road tested with a full report on my desk by Xmas morning. Now get to work

 

 

 

I really cannot be arsed.

Posted

With that attitude I can't see that FSO ever getting finished, especially if your planning on welding it with a stick!.

  • Like 2
Posted

It's not too much of an ordeal, I'd rather be spending my time on the fso and saab that's why I've left the proton at a local garage for them to deal with. I don't currently have the facilities or equipment at home to be removing gearboxes and the only car I have that was capable of transporting any equipment is currently dead.

Maybe I've just been really lucky with the last few cars I've bought as they've just seemed to work without me constantly throwing money at them.

Posted

With that attitude I can't see that FSO ever getting finished, especially if your planning on welding it with a stick!.

 

Fuck Off And Die.

Posted

Gents please, I can see why FOAD has farmed this job out, he's trying to juggle too many jobs at once, so one had to give. The Proton dealer could probably have this job sorted fairly quickly

  • Like 1
Posted

FOAD's only indoor space is currently taken up by the FSO, it is really cold here at the minute and I wouldn't fancy working on a car on my driveway like he's been doing.

Posted

Just stick it back on gumtree. You got it nice and cheap I can't see how you'll not get close to your money back even with clutch issue.

  • Like 3
Posted

HARSH ON TRIGS.

 

However, I can empathise. Inevitably there are cars on the fleet that get the lion's share of attention, and others that are expected to work without much mither. I'm not FOAD but I imagine he expected the latter of the Jumbuck.

 

Inevitably, shit always occurs at the worst time from the cars you least suspect - witness my C4 shattering its coil with me spent up for Christmas, having bought the MGF and not managing to go overdrawn (until that point). The larger your fleet, the larger the ructions, which is why my collection of tat is getting reduced in the new year - starting with the Charade.

Posted

You're right, I was expecting to get the jumbuck and use it without having to do much with it. My other Proton has been super reliable and I was expecting similar from this. I should have expected the remarks about the FSO but it's sat in a workshop and gets a little bit of attention at a time, I have no expectations that it'll finished any time soon but it really doesn't need to be. 

The jumbuck was supposed to be a back up car for me and mrs Foad and I'm pissed off with it now just sitting there costing me money for insurance and tax etc.

I really don't have loads of spare cash, I'm an apprentice welder going into my 3rd year, the money isn't great at the moment so to have a car costing me money and not working seems a bit pointless.

 

Trigger can still FOAD though.

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