Volvo V70 buying advice

[Stanky]

I can haz Ovlov qweshtuns.

 

So, I'm still vaguely on the lookout for a replacement for the now fixed Almera, which has developed a hole in the sill where it has been plated in the past and a few other niggly things. Its fundamentally sound, but I'd really like a barge in my life.

 

Which leads me to Volvos. I had a test drive in a 2002 V70 2.4 auto yesterday and found it highly enjoyable, less power than I expected on tap, but I suppose it is a heavy car and possibly masked by the automatic gearbox. Anyway, other than that, it seemed superb and I can definitely see myself owning one in the future. 

 

Having looked at Honest* John, the list of potential woe seems endless - they look like a complete money pit with endless potential problems and no real plus points. Now, is this because:

 

1. Honest John is a total wanker

2. They have helpfully combined pez, diesel, auto and manual variants of the V70, S60, XC70 and apparently XC90 in one giant grouping, thereby multiplying the list of potential woe massively?

3. They really are shit and no-one in their right mind would ever buy one.

 

Now, I lean firmly towards a combination of 1 and 2 - but can I have some advice from owners/those more objective than HJ?

 

I have some specific questions:

 

1. How bad is a manual version?

2. Is there much 'real world' difference between the 10v and 20v versions of the 2.5, 5 cylinder engine?

3. How does the 2000-2007 'rounded' version compare with the 1996-2000 'squarer' one? HJ reckons the police preferred the older gen ones, but see point 1 above.

4. Do they really go on forever? how concerned should I be about mileage? 

5. How quickly will I lose my licence in a t5?

6. How does a T5 V70 compare with a T4 V40 in terms of power and load lugging?

7. How quickly do non-t5 ones eat front tyres? I assume t5s tyres have lifespans measured in weeks, even driven relatively carefully?

8. Are models under £1000 going to be totally shit?

9. What is insurance like for the hot ones?

 

So, there are some starting questions - I'm looking to get a new set of wheels later in the year and these are fairly high up my want list, having test driven the one yesterday I was impressed enough to want to know a bit more about them. Oh, to be clear I want a petrol one, and fuel economy is less of an issue as I have an Allstar fuel card so someone else basically foots the bill for me destroying* the planet (within reason, I think a V8 might be pushing my luck a bit)

 

I do about 25k miles a year to and fro work plus some pottering. 

 

Any info (SVM I'm looking at you guys ) gratefully received.

[xtriple]

I had a 2002 V70 2.4 auto. It was a high spec one wiv lever and decent stereo, I loved driving it, really comfortable and quick enough.  They do have problems though: central locking, auto box, dashboards all give problems and mine had them all by 102000 miles, I got rid quickly! Shame, 'cos it really was a cracking car and so comfortable.

[meshking]

I had a 10v 2.0 squarer one and then a 2.4 20v rounded one. They were both manuals and both slow. I always felt if I was burning that much petrol it should at least be fast, but it wasn't. I'd recommend a turbo, my brother in law had an s80 t5 and it was fast and pretty economical. He claimed 35, I don't think I ever got that in either of mine. If it were me , I'd get a squarer t5. I think answer to 8 is generally yes unless you're lucky and in the right place at the right time.

[Bren]

Fuel consumption of petrol models in enough to put most off.

[pompei]

Pal of mine has a diseasel estate  -  he loves it and loves the lack of thirst.  Mind you he's not had it long, so as a long term report this is a bit hopeless.

[Spiny Norman]

As a Volvo fan it pains me to say this but with the possible exception of the 850s, I think fwd Volvos are shit.

 

They suffer from all manner of electrical issues, it's rare to find one with no warning lights on the dash and the front suspension & steering is a joke. The high power ones can rip through tyres in 10k and they have a turning circle like an aircraft carrier.

Do some research on the little 3 letter acronym 'ETM', fitted to all petrol cars between 1998 and 2002. It's Volvo's attempt to replace a £20 throttle cable with a £500 box of tricks that has to be coded to the car when it fails, which they do at 10 years/100k or shortly thereafter. I'd want proof that it had been done, or bargain for a new one.

To be honest, a good 900 wagon whips a V70's ass in most ways and that's where my money would go.

[forddeliveryboy]

Def avoid the 2000-on ones, they cost unnecessarily from what I've seen and heard. OP says pez is a must, has he ever driven a 140hp Audi 5pot dizzle? All the non-T5 pez 850s and V70s I've driven feel a little bit lacking in grunt, the TDi is a peach to drive.

[Lacquer Peel]

My friend has owned an 02 V70 D5 for a few years and loves it, it did have a couple of niggly electrical issues when he bought it (£££ for a control box at the Volvo dealer) but it's been sound since. Nice combination of a proper estate, warbly soundtrack and supermini fuel costs.

[rml2345]

I think curvy shape V70s are a tad new for the SVM as we're just moving on to 850s and 900s the now. Generally the white block aluminium engines are reliable and will do Volvo mileages when looked after. If it was my money though I'd be looking for a square V70 or an 850 as it won't be any less reliable and a bit easier to look after.

[Tetleysmooth]

I've got a V70 P1 '97 2.5 20 valve.

170 horses and very economical. I think it's one engine down from the T5.

My one had been abused when I got it, but there's plenty of spares about out there, and I'm gradually sorting it.

I do have a diagnostic light on, but that's due to a broken vacuum pipe, right at the front of the engine, under the inlet manifold.

A pain to get at, but is now on the way to being cured. Very common on these. Still runs perfectly though.

Bloody quick when you need it.

Go for one with all the toys and a bit of wood inside.

FWD win in the snow.

The only other Volvo I'd go for is the facelifted 960 three litre auto estate.

[PiperCub]

A former colleague had an 02 plate V70 D5 - he hated it, had trouble almost from day one of ownership, one thing after another. He wound up weighing it in after the 'to do' list got so long and expensive - it was less than nine years old and he wouldn't sell on such a POS - that's they way he is to his credit. I have never known/heard of anyone scrapping a running & driving vehicle so young that wasn't accident damaged.

This might not be representative of V70's but this was his experience which hugely disappointed him as he'd previously owned a 850 (T5 I think) and loved it.

[scooters]

900 for build quality any day. A good one is a magnificent car.

 

Pre 2000 v70/850 good cars stay petrol and auto. You will have electric gremlins but on the whole tough and rock bottom prices at ghetto moment.

 

My advice?

 

Go 200!!

[CreepingJesus]

My '98 V70 10v does 30mpg reliably (as in it doesn't vary by much at all, regardless of how it's used), munches front tyres for fun, but is pretty good all round.

Supremely comfy over long distances (maybe more than a shitey old Jag   ), decent stereo, and not as slow as you'd think. I've had it cruising at a ton on the A1M, and hanging off the arse of a Corsa VXR over the time I've had it. Depends how you drive it - don't expect to win drag races. Think tortoise and hare.

Apart from this ABS niggle, and the heater controls not working when I got it, I've not had the fabled electrical meltdown either. The dashboard doesn't go all huffy like it does on 200/700's either. Most things seem to be easily fixed.

The ETM thing is a bit overstated too: when the module does go (which it probably will), there are plenty of specialists who can fix for a couple of hundred squid now, and done properly, it stays fixed. If there's a TRACS control on the dashboard, it'll have ETM. So 850T5s, Ph1 x70 turbo models and all Ph2 onwards, plus those others which had TRACS fitted from the options list (sport pack or winter pack iirc).

Watch for corrosion on the back 'chassis rails' and exhaust. Although, the steel's so thick it'll take years to become a real problem.

Black badge best - they're the actual Volvo ones: blue badge = Ford. Best to go for the 850/Ph1 x70 I reckon. Seriously cheap, and still a few under 150k miles, which should have years left in them. Early blue badge Ph2 x70s are fine too, Ford hadn't cost-cutted them to death by then.

Also, avoid the VOC forum like the plague. Unless you like laughing at idiots, in which case it's brilliant.

[Tetleysmooth]

30 mpg in a 2.5 big old lump of an estate car isn't too bad really.

My old Previa 2.4 petrol used to do about 16 mpg round the town.

 

One of the only cars my wife says she feels safe in.

[Tetleysmooth]

 

900 for build quality any day. A good one is a magnificent car.

But they do tend to leak water in either through the sunroof, bulkhead or the rear washer pipe that comes apart in the driver's footwell. Otherwise agreed.

[Richard]

I've had a 940 and have an 850 now and I would say the 850's build quality is at least as good as the 940's, possibly slightly better. As mentioned above, at least all the instruments work (although I did have to repair the odometer). It still feels like a proper Volvo too, I don't know how much that was diluted in the later models.

[warninglight]

I've had 3 Volvos now, all either phase one or two S/C/V70s, so I'll give any advice I can based on experience!

 

First - 97 R S70 TDi manual - VAG 5 pot engine. Bought at 175k, sold at 195k about 8 months later (in the mean time, on cheap tyres, I landed it in a field)

 

It had been bought cheap by the P/O who took an ebay gamble, bought it unseen in Glasgow with 'cold starting issues', and drove it home to Norn Iron. Injector pump timing is the big thing to get right on these, but when it's right, they're a great car, and IMO can sound better than a T5 (just not at idle). Also worth checking that tensioners etc. have all been done with every cambelt change, as it's reasonably common for them to slip timing if one siezes. Mine was quite smoky but got no better or worse over that 20k of long runs every day, I put it down to a drippy injector as it managed to use less coolant, oil and water than my dad's Audi A6 TDi, 10 years and 100,000 miles its junior, with an engine made by the same company.

 

I liked the manual box in it, to answer a question, found it smooth and happy to be rushed through the gears, didn't feel at all worn either.

 

I towed with it, I had it full of people and luggage doing three figure (won't say which scale) speeds in the Republic, Never saw the average MPG over a tank drop below 45, regularly had it showing 50+ if I wasn't towing or anything. That was sub a grand back in 2011, and they've only got cheaper since.

 

This was it on one of my favourite roads at home, the engine note is quite something for a diesel, in my opinion. My 5 pot TDi Landy can't hope to match it.

 

That was the best all rounder I've had.

 

Then for around the same money I went and bought another R reg Volvo on the same floorpan, this time a C70 T5 auto, 240bhp and 4 speed, fitted with a sequential Prins LPG kit. This, being an early one was pre 'ETM' and I would recommend you try to find one of this age (IIRC ETM came in on S reg, but may be wrong!) Being a C70, it was impractical, so nobody wanted it, but also meant that in its 170,000 previous miles, it had never had dogs or rabid children in it. It also came with a lot more toys as standard, so the best of all worlds if you don't need an estate! Bought it at 178,000, sold at 205,000 18 months later. Worked out it was costing about the same in fuel as the TDi, given LPG is approx half the price of diesel. Did lost most of my boot space, but when burning off every jap import and German saloon on the road, I couldn't give two shits. Better stereo, bigger brakes and a plusher interior as standard too, and it looked so smart.

 

There's not much that does go wrong with this era of x70, mostly dry solder joints on ABS units, easy repair through the club contacts, and then the usual suspension arms and droplinks are treated as consumables. Electrically, the ignition barrels get a bit fidgety with age, you'll know that if you're driving and indicators don't work, you'll have no brake lights etc. either, the key just needs a slight wiggle. In all the miles I did in those two, the S70 did that twice, and the C70 never, so it's not a big thing! Interiors wear very well, somewhere around 203k on this, when this photo was taken -

 

I'd never be put off a Volvo based on mileage, buy solely on condition and history, and you won't go wrong, the petrol engines especially last very, very well. To keep the engine happy, always check that the PCV is clear on test drives by pulling the dipstick on an idling, warm engine. If you see any smoke coming out, or you feel pressure when you put your thumb on the end of the tube, it'll need replaced, not something I've done! Also check the state of the headlight reflectors, if the headlights don't look nice and bright behind the glass, budget for a new pair (cheap enough on parts4volvo) as they get to be shite.

 

If you happen to look at any AWD ones, ALWAYS check that the propshaft is still fitted, on this age of car (up to about 2005 IIRC) they have issues with the angle gears in the rear end, and often the prop is removed to hide the noises. It gets expensive to repair!

 

I then went and (just recently) bought myself a 2003 V70 - my first estate, and my first phase 2. The seats in the phase 2 are the best seats I've ever encountered in a car, the stereo is even better than the phase 1s (think Dolby surround became standard), and the perceived quality is huge on them. I'm not convinced that they're as well designed or built as the earlier shape, though. They all make really good long distance cruisers, though the T5 was my favourite.

 

The 2003 one - V70 2.4 Bi Fuel (140bhp so 10 valve as all factory LPGers are), 5 speed auto (not geartronic)

Phase 2s have more issues, common ones are alarm faults, where the backup battery leaks over the ECU and makes it go haywire (mine had this), and other electrical niggles, like I've noticed in every phase 2 I've been in, when you pull the key out or open the door, the needles on the speedo and rev counter wiggle up and down a bit. Too electronic for my liking.

Being an estate, the 120000 miles this had covered had been tougher, kicked in speaker grilles on the doors, scratched leather seats from dogs, dog slobbers around the backrest release handles, and the thing covered in dents and scrapes, wouldn't be too quick to jump at another estate after that, unless it was particularly clean, as they've all been used as either dog or child transport, or as a builder's workhorse, and that's why their values are higher still.

Didn't keep this one for long, did about 4000 miles in 3 months in it.

 

In short, if I was to buy my ideal one, it would probably be an S70 T5 manual, in CD spec, and R reg to avoid ETMs. But then if I'm going that far, I'd probably go for this...

 

(and I will)

[bub2006]

Never owned one myself but my step sister has had 2. Both v70 estates. A s plate 2.0 10v auto and a w plate 2.5td auto. Never understood the trim levels,seems to be a mis match of whatever was in the parts bin! The s plate 2.0 was woefully underpowered and uneconomical. Had steel wheels but full leather and CD player with trip computer but no air con or sunroof. The TD model she has now has alloys,air con,sunroof but no trip computer or CD player. She said the 2.5 TD is quiet quick and economical too.

[The Moog]

Had an 850 2.5 20v auto. Liked a drink, around town was 23 even on cruise was 30.

 

Some of trim was flimsy including glove box which kept breaking. Rear seat squabs plastic retaining clips broke and couldn't fix it without replacing seats. Had a strange battery drain that I couldn't track down. Odometer stopped after a year.

 

Aside from that it was mega comfy and lovely cruiser.

 

It was the estate so was a dog mobile plus helped friends move house.

Bought off eBay for £800 and did 5 years service without missing a beat. Scrapped it when it got to a point where wasn't worth fixing and was quite hard to sell

[gordonbennet]

My son has an S60 185hp Diesel, manual on an 07 plate, i was highly skeptical but its turning out to be a good motor.

 

He doesn't think it has, but i highly suspect the previous owner has had it remapped because its ridiculously quick and returns well over 40 even when he'd driving like a twat, not a wheelspin start but once you've got it off the line there's very little can live with the bloody thing.

 

Parking brake is one to strip out and inspect as soon as you buy the car, his parking brake shoe one side had parted company with the metal and was just floating about inside the drum, apparently they can jam the whole bloody lot solid and cost a packet to sort out, luckily the brakes are very DIY friendly, none of that SBC shit that Merc saddled mid 2000 E Classes with or other useless twaddle to worry about.

 

No its not built like a 9 series and i doubt it'll be running about at 25 years old, but its a bloody good car.

[Dead_E23]

...and I've got an '06 V70 D5, which I've done about 50k miles in.  It's now coming up to 140k.

 

I really like it - I bought it for doing regular long motorway journeys and it's been an excellent, comfortable mile eater.  Mpg is invariably in the mid-40s, which is fine.    It'll carry loads of luggage - I've put 9 of the big 55 litre stacking crates in the back and there was easily room on top for another layer.    Sheets of ply are no problem, nor are household doors, furniture, all kinds of crap fits in there just fine.

 

There are a few downsides:

• the handbrake is absolute shit and never works unless I've literally just fixed it for the MOT, even though I've replaced every component including the lever.  
• the concentric clutch slave is a similarly shit design, and leaks fluid which it shares with the brakes. Replacing it is a huge job, which involves partially dismantling the front suspension and even the power steering.  I'm a fairly seasoned home mechanic and couldn't face it, so I paid the local garage a king's ransom to do it for me.  When went to I pick it up, the mechanic looked absolutely shattered and said it had involved a lot more dismantling than even he'd expected.
• it likes tyres, but that's hardly a surprise given it's a heavy car and fairly brisk
• it is starting to develop an appetite for oil for a reason that I have yet to determine.  I anticipate that this will be expensive.

I'd probably still have another.

[Stanky]

Thanks for the input guys, please keep it coming!

 

It sounds like the p2 might be a bit more of a gamble than an 850/p1, there seem to be plenty of 2.5 10v and 20v estates and saloons about under my provisional 'bag of sand' budget so will probably go and try a couple out and see how I get on. I will keep my eyes peeled for PCV problems as pointed out by Warninglight, this is something I wouldn't have otherwise known about so thankyou!

 

I'm happy to check over service history and for dog/child damage which should be fairly apparent! What is the turning circle like on an 850/p1? Is it as nautical as the P2?

[warninglight]

Depends on the wheel size! The saloons and estates came with everything from 15" narrow steelies to pretty fat 17" alloys. On the bottom suspension arms there are plastic lock stops, which will make a grinding noise if not greased, when on full lock. If they're missing or the wrong type they'll affect the lock, so my S70 on it's 16" T5 'Perfo' alloys used to rub the arch liners something shocking on full lock, because (presumably) it had the lock stops for different wheels. The C70 did the same when I ran winter tyres on p2 V70 wheels, same 17" size and same size tyres as the factory wheels, but I didn't realise that the P2 cars have a different offset, so I lost out on even more lock whilst running those wheels.

 

You do get used to it, I'd imagine the steel wheeled versions aren't too bad mind. They should be the most comfortable too.

[Richard]

I find the lock pretty decent on my 850TDi with 16" T5 wheels, which I think are correct for the car (it would take a much better brain than mine to fathom out 850 specs),

[Dead_E23]

Mine rides better on its 16" winter wheels than on the 17" alloys it wears for the rest of the year.   I suspect partly thanks to taller, more flexible sidewalls. 

 

To my great surprise, when I weighed them I discovered that each steel wheel & tyre weighs a whole stone less than the alloy equivalent, so the car carries 1/2 cwt less around with it all winter.  Also, the winter tyres are a bit narrower so I get an extra 1 or 2 mpg with them on.

[forddeliveryboy]

Dead_E23, it's little surprise that modern alloys are heavy as an American tank full of Depleted Uranium shells. For almost as long as the industry realised What Car readers perceived 'alloy wheels' as something to aspire to, they were loaded with profit rather than helium.

 

The laugh with these 'modern' low profile, wide tyres and rims is that beyond crucifying the comfort, they wreck suspension and steering components - which are hardly £100 to repair anymore, compromise the roadholding, can be a problem in the wet, cost a bomb, let go with little warning when going fast and worst of all most suspensions aren't up to making the best use of them. In fact, most struggle. See all those Audis with scrubbed tyres, even when 18 months old?

 

Don't assume F1 sized aspect ratios may make sense on the A34, but also don't assume a set of quality 195-65-15s are in any way likely to see your average car losing out on the road. Modern wheels and tyres owe it all to fashion and looks (ok, and a little to do with that appalling MacPherson strut profit-maker) and virtually nothing to real-world performance.

[rml2345]

The big wheel/low profile thing pisses me off majorly, but that's a story for another time. My 850 had 15" steels and the turning circle was rather good for a big FWD car.  The 850 glove box woes are bloody annoying but other than that I'd say the interior is of a much higher quality than the 7/900s. The interior fit and finish on those is hilarious but the rest of it stands up brilliantly well. 850s/P1s should be of a similar high quality in that respect. 

Trim levels and badges denoting same are completely arbitrary and bear no relevance whatsoever to whatever equipment your Volvo 850/x70 has, with the possible exception of the TDi badge which should only be attached to a diesel. Don't take that as given though as Volvo were crafty fuckers like that. 

[Shep Shepherd]

Having owned and enjoyed TV2 from 2009 until this spring, I'd recommend a P1 to anyone. Woe betide them if they need to replace the clutch or engine rear main oil seal, though.

[twosmoke300]

About the wheel rubbing the arch thing , im sure there is actually a vosa special notice about that on these.

ie it should fail on most cars but its ok to pass on these.

 

As always I could be wrong.

[Manbearpig]

Get a pre 2000 and you will love it. I "upgraded" to a 2005 V70R and went back to the old bricks within a year

 

I've had diesels, T5s and AWDs non stop since 2001, no car comes close IMHO

 

Engine - As said TDi or T5, anything else feels slow

Box - Autos help front tyre life and generally nicer to drive, a T5 manual feels like a hot hatch but will run tires off in 15k if you boot it

Mileage - low milers are few and far between now and most cars have been horribly abused, your choice will be limited

 

Other stuff -

Throttle modules fail but Volvo do that many it's £240ish these days (nice of them not to do a recall though eh? Oh yes Volvo are scumbags BTW)

 

Wheel lock - only really a problem on fat tyred R versions, the post 2000 is like a feckin oil tanker

 

Insurance - not too bad but never better than £200 in my experience