dollywobbler Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 Base of the B pillar. There appears to be a hole right through it. I think rot is creeping into the sliding hinge for the rear doors too, which is obviously a tricky spot to try and get paint down. This is why I hate restoring cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Problem is, 2CVs varied in exact dimensions even from the factory. People who restore a lot of them have noticed just how different two identical, never-restored 2CVs can be. I was going to comment earlier asking if new panels are made to slightly different specs than original or if even the factory had to bugger about sometimes to make things fit. I can't say I'm terribly surprised that two seemingly identical 2CV's can have their differences. Shame about the rot creeping in already. Still want a 2CV... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddeliveryboy Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Were the B-post bases replaced/repaired? If so, worth sending a pic to your man in the Pennines and asking what he suggests. If not, it's just a bit of existing metal which may have looked ok but wasn't, so time for the rotary wire brush, some more etch-primer, stonechip and paint. Keep an eye on other bits to make sure this is an isolated case, otherwise a few weeks on salted roads followed by a balmy Spring day could have consequences! Too many restorers think cars will be locked away in heated garages, driven carefully on club outings in Summer. From what you've said earlier in the thread this isn't the case here, but it's a caution to others who have such work done. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddeliveryboy Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 I think you need to go round poking it with your screwdriver. Better to find any problems now and fix them. Ben If rust stains have appeared within a few days, the paint's thin/porous enough to show any other dodgy areas after a month on salty roads. Poking newish paint with a sharp thing shouldn't be necessary unless there's some confusion to whether it's metal or mastic under the paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 I like working on the car in the house. First door seal fitted. Quite easy with a bit of lube. And the strong hands of Mrs DW. I'm missing one seal, but thankfully have a spare set of doors downstairs (that have seen better days). Then I can get to the scary bit - refitting the glass. Only scary for the rears. The front windows simply screw in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaseracer Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 I think you should rat look it to fuck so it looks like its died.. But you know its got a totally solid chassis and body. Not to mention a proper rat look car should have a hopped up motor;) You have just described my Dyane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 You have just described my Dyane.Well fuckin git on with it now! chaseracer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardmorris Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Base of the B pillar. There appears to be a hole right through it. I think rot is creeping into the sliding hinge for the rear doors too, which is obviously a tricky spot to try and get paint down. This is why I hate restoring cars. Well that's not good is it. Wasn't the body fully stripped before painting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 Yes, it was fully stripped. I'm not sure if the bases of the B pillars were replaced. They are the original pillars. I'll be following up on it, so can't really say more until discussions are complete. oldcars, trigger and alf892 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigger Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Cracking read so far, i like the idea of the wrapped wings, i bet that will look great if you pick the right design, you can get away with some cool designs as the Dolly is that kind of car, as for the rust, well that would bothering me a lot considering that this will be no trailer queen. Hope you get it sorted without any grief. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted December 1, 2016 Author Share Posted December 1, 2016 Nowt I can do about the paint issues, so I've been fitting the door seals instead. What a sod of a job! Got there in the end though. I think tomorrow will see me actually make a start on the body. About time the wiring loom went back in. Then I can start refitting the wiper motor, rear lights and speedometer/dash panel. That'll make it look a lot closer to finished. Engine was due to get collected today for its rebuild session. Bit miffed about the delay on that, as I won't be too far from 'fire up' state soon. The big issues are rear wings (though I can always chuck the battered old ones back on as an interim solution), unpainted/unwrapped front wings and a headlamp bar that I haven't really finished refurbishing yet. mat_the_cat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 Wiring loom back in. I wisely connected everything back up before taking the dash panel out, so hopefully everything is still in the right place. Sigmund Fraud and Skizzer 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Good to see it being rebuilt. The folk that did the worked seemed professional i'm sure they will fix the wee rusted bubble bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 Aye. We'll get there. Of course, I am yet to do any actual rustproofing of the car, so at least I know where to focus my efforts. I've been working on the car all day, and progress was feeling a bit slow. Doing loads of little jobs takes up loads of time, but doesn't leave you with much to show for it. Doing this, you certainly see why restoring a car is so expensive! Having got the final bolts in that hold the body to the chassis, threaded the loom into the various places it needs to be, refitted the battery tray gear lever, I thought it was time for something that gave more of a visual finish. Rear lights! I refitted the wiper motor too. Definitely starting to look like a car again. The aim is to have her ready to hit the road between Christmas and New Year. Wonder if I can find someone to MOT it in that gap? Could be tricky. I'd love to take her up to Yorkshire for 2CVGB Raid Tan Hill on 8th January. That could be a lot of fun. There's a limit to how far I can get at the moment though. The engine is still away for rebuilding, and I need to collect some forgotten bits from Citwins - rear body glass and the reinforcing panel for the brake master cylinder/pedal assembly. Still an awful lot of fiddly bits I can crack on with for now though, and I still haven't painted the wings and headlamp bar. Skizzer and oldcars 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddeliveryboy Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Aye. We'll get there. Of course, I am yet to do any actual rustproofing of the carI'm really hoping the insides of box sections have been proofed where welding has exposed steel to the atmosphere... Rust starts hours after metal is exposed in this weather, once there it doesn't ever vanish! If not, time to get the compressor fired up sharpish! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 I have Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 for the cavities. Given what a mucky job it is, I was planning to leave it until the car is nearing completion. Maybe I'll do it tomorrow instead... forddeliveryboy and oldcars 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddeliveryboy Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 This is arguably the single most important part of a rebuild, so make sure the Bilthamber's thin enough to atomise really well, collect and re-use it from the drips if there's sufficient to make it worthwhile. Sounds expensive stuff but it's only as good as how well it's applied. There's too much good work been done to not get it right - tip the shell upside down and repeat if it's not yet all connected up so all the downwards-facing exposed steel is well covered. Well worth a few hours of filthy work given the years of enjoyment it sets a rebuilt shell up for. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 Body isn't coming off again! I'll get the tins in a hot bucket tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 The waxing thing has been held up by the realisation that I only have the UB underbody wax in stock, not the cavity stuff. Moar shopping needed. So, I refitted the seal above the windscreen (where the roof latches into place). Then, I thought it'd be nice to get the wiring back together. I can't find the original fusebox (what, my perfect* filing system didn't work?), but getting hold of the correct glass fuses is a pain in the arse these days, so I decided I'd upgrade it to blade fuses. Thought I'd have to order up a new blade fuse box, but then I recalled that I bought one about ten years ago, and never got around to fitting it. All I had to do was find it. Many searches took place, and I found a huge number of spare bulbs for our Christmas lights (good timing). However, I could not locate the fuse box. I mentioned this to Mrs DW, who replied "Have you tried in the furniture right in the back corner of the workshop?" If you think my garage is a mess, the workshop is even worse. Said furniture is a desk, buried under loads of stuff we don't really need. It was even going mouldy. Sure enough, open the drawer and the fusebox is right there! My wife scares me sometimes. All I need to do now is fit it. Coprolalia 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meshking Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 You've just reminded me when I restored my dyane. I fitted the roof to body seal the wrong way round, the first hint of rain on the motorway I got totally soaked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 I have been shopping. Zinc primer obtained. Forgot the seam sealer though. Annoyingly, I need to smear it across one seam on the repaired front wings. Wondering if I can get away with just zinc primering them to death, then slopping a load of anti-rot wax into the joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twosmoke300 Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Do it right - stop rushing . It's been off for he road long enough that an extra week or two doesn't matter ! Timewaster, alf892, Dick Longbridge and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 Too true. I seem to be suffering a large attack of can't be arsed today anyway. Too much ZX excitement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexi Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 It may be a bit ambitious hitting the road for xmas? Only weeks away mate. Can't be arsed for a day is good, as you can come back a bit fresher.Even if you tick one wee job done proper a day, that is progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 Certainly ambitious given the engine is currently miles away. We'll see... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500tops Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 That B post looks nasty. .😠Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeJay Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Wing finish?http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/45263 chaseracer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 Good ol' Seth. I have indeed been thinking of lace, especially when recreating the 'Dolly' side stripes. Main issue at the moment is having too many ideas and no way of working out which one to proceed with. I have zinc-rich primer to put on the wings, but no firm plan of what happens next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 More mooching around on the internet has led to me checking out spray rubber paint. One advantage being that you can peel it off if you don't like it. This is just for the wings, though I do need to work out how to recreate the Dolly stripes on the doors. Probably. However, my main aim is to just get her back on the road. Related to which is the engine, which is now not going to be rebuilt. There isn't time. Picking it up next week, which mean I can really crack on with getting her running again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bfg Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 Base of the B pillar. There appears to be a hole right through it. I think rot is creeping into the sliding hinge for the rear doors too, which is obviously a tricky spot to try and get paint down. This is why I hate restoring cars. Reckon my Yugoslavian Ami-super will be as bad from sitting out in all weathers while it waits to be shipped over here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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