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MOT Changes for 2012


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Posted

Copied from another forum, so dont take it as gospel!

 

Found this on another forum:

 

Copied from UKFN (ANDY G) mot tester for ford

 

Tonight I attended what is known as an MOT seminar, basically the head honchos from VOSA go to each area, and talk about the MOT scheme, including changes to the test.

 

As I said in the thread about the new EU directive, as soon as I knew what was changing in the MOT test I would post it up. These changes are to be brought into the test on 1st January 2012, not before. So here goes...

 

Steering lock operation - Steering locks not engaging when the ignition key is removed will fail.

Engine warning lamps, brake fluid warning lamps, ESP lamps, EPB lamps illumination - ANY of the above illuminated indicating a fault will fail.TPMS (Tyre pressure monitoring systems) warning lamps - Again, if illuminated indicating a fault, will fail.Airbag/SRS lamp illumination - If this warning lamp is illuminated it will fail.

HID Headlamps - Now, a little grey area here. They will be included in the new test, and will fail if they prove to be outside of the specified conditions... but the conditions and reasons for rejections haven't been written/decided yet, so sit tight.

Wiring - Any wiring (loomed or otherwise) that is damaged, or fitted in such a way that could cause damage to said wiring, or other systems will fail.

Engine mountings - Engine mountings will be a part of the test. incorrect mounting, corrosion in a prescribed area etc will fail.

PAS (Power assisted steering) fluid level will be tested.

Rear doors must open in the new test. Previously (and currently), if the tester feels he can access the testable items in the rear (seatbelts, prescribed areas etc) without needing the doors open, they don't need to open. This will now be a failure.

13 pin towbar sockets - tested for correct operation using a plug in testing tool.

Inappropriate modifications or repairs - The wording on this is quite vague at the moment, but if a major component has been modified, and that modification/repair makes the vehicle dangerous or seriously weakens the original component, expect it to fail.

ANY ball joint dust cover - The small rubber boots over ball joints must be intact and free or splits, tears or holes, or it fails.

All CVJ gaiters will be tested - Currently, only the front outer] CVJ gaiters are tested. This new rule extends it to inner and outer, front and rear.

A catalytic converter missing WILL be a reason for failure, regardless of whether or not the emissions limits are met.

Fuel pipe chaffing or damage - Currently they only fail when they are leaking, this rule means that any chaffing or rubbing causing damage will fail.

The braking imbalance limit is lowered to 30% across all axles.

Vehicles built post July 2010 will have to have at least 58% braking efficiency to pass (currently it's 50% for a dual circuit braking system)

Insecure batteries will become a failure

The main beam warning lamp must illuminate with the main beam lamps

All light switches must operate the corresponding lights immediately. No tapping, or wiggling to make it work!

 

 

Remember, these changes will all be brought into testing starting from the 1st January 2012. The exact wording of each failure has yet to be released, but the above list is what was presented to us earlier this evening. I've posted all I know currently, so unfortunately I can't help with any questions .

Posted

My MOT guy was telling me about some of those, he also mentioned an expensive limited shelf life spray to check LPG systems for leaks.

Posted

Interesting changes , il pinch this and post it on another forum if thats OK , With disclaimer of course

Posted
Interesting changes , il pinch this and post it on another forum if thats OK , With disclaimer of course

 

sure, it 4th hand information already :)

Posted

Most of that's fair enough, I'm surprised some of it's taken this long to become testable. Can't see why it matters if someone's steering lock works or not though. The missing catalytic converter fail is a bit of a pisser, if the Mini's ever needed replacing I was just going to de-cat it. Ah well.

 

I reckon the warning lights will account for the bulk of fails.

Posted

Pretty much what I was told at a seminar I attended in February. My notes on it were:

 

From 1st January 2012, the new test items will be:

 

Warning lights for the engine, airbags, main beam, electronic stability, brake fluid, electronic parking brake, tyre pressure monitoring.

 

Light switches to check that front and rear work at the same time.

 

Headlamp adjuster presence.

 

Steering lock operation.

 

Seatbelt safety devices, no mechanical flags have been triggered to indicate a deployed seatbelt pretensioner.

 

HID headlamps have washers and self levelling.

 

Visible wiring security and condition.

 

Battery security.

 

Engine mountings and the structure to which they are attached.

 

Power steering fluid, where the level can be seen without removing the reservoir cap.

 

Rear doors open from the outside.

 

Driveshaft gaitors, will include inner gaitors on front wheel drive, may even include a non steered axle.

 

Ball joint dust cover condition.

 

Electrical testing of 13 pin tow bar sockets.

 

Leak detection test for LPG systems.

 

Fuel pipe condition.

 

Missing anti pollution equipment, catalyst or DPF.

 

There will be a new section introduced for inappropriate repairs or modifications, which may include things like stretched tyres, inappropriately low suspension.

 

From 1st September 2013 for cars registered after 24th July 2010,brake performance requirements will change from 25% on a steered axle to 30% on all axles for imbalance, from 50% to 58% for service brake efficiency.

Posted

Steering lock operation? What about on cars that don't have one? Saabs and Smarts and the like. Bit pissed off about that as my 2CV hasn't had a steering lock for years. They're a pain in the arse so I never refitted it it (trusting an after-market wheel lock instead).

 

In fact, that's really, really pissed me off. WTF has a functioning steering lock got to do with road safety?

 

2CV's for the UK market never had a main beam warning lamp either. (I fitted one, but it isn't wired up at the moment. Must remove that for the test...)

Posted
Steering lock operation? What about on cars that don't have one? Saabs and Smarts and the like. Bit pissed off about that as my 2CV hasn't had a steering lock for years. They're a pain in the arse so I never refitted it it (trusting an after-market wheel lock instead).

 

In fact, that's really, really pissed me off. WTF has a functioning steering lock got to do with road safety?

 

2CV's for the UK market never had a main beam warning lamp either. (I fitted one, but it isn't wired up at the moment. Must remove that for the test...)

 

Most cars made before the early 70's didn't have steering locks. I would imagine that it will be like everthing else, I.E. if it's fitted it will be be tested, if it's not, it won't...

Posted

What does that steering lock thing actually mean?

New cars the lock goes on pretty much AS you take the key out, old stuff you have to twirl the wheel about until it clicks.

What should be inferred? That if the lock doesn't go 'on' as you take the key out it's a fail???

Posted

Steering lock thing is a mystery to me - what interest is it to VOSA if it works or not?

Clearly they don't prevent car theft, else the manufacturers would not bother with immobilisers and deadlocks and other security shite.

 

Maybe they watched too many 70's public information films "No no Dodger, thats too new! Look It's got a steering lock!"

 

And I'm pretty sure an insecure battery is already a fail? Testers?

Posted

We were told that the steering lock check was to bring us into line with Europe. The test will be to take the key out and turn the steering wheel until the lock engages, I can't wait for the cars with worn keys/locks where it will be impossible to turn the key with the lock engaged, abandon test, charge fee, fallout with customer will be a likely outcome. Add to that the test will likely have to be conducted with the wheels on unlocked turning plates means that it will be a pain moving it out of the bay if the wheels don't lock in the straight ahead position.

 

I saw a battery held in with a bit of wood wedged with a bit of foam the other day, pass and advise as it always has been. The battery security check has come about as back in the pre computerisation days cars were getting mistakenly failed on insecure batteries, the VOSA logic is that the testers were checking them then, so it wouldn't really be any additional work to check them in the future.

Posted

Seems a bit that they're moving from safety to "pleasing car manufacturers". The current test seems almost entirely focused on safety - brakes, steering, joints, suspension, rust but only on vital bits etc. So explain the warning lights for ESP, TCR, MFI and all that shit, or airbags - it's not safety, you car doesn't need it to work to be safe. It's in the same class as an electric sunroof and a cupholder imho - nice, but not necessary for safe travel. If I remove my airbag from my airbagged car, is that a fail? Just seems like we're being forced to maintain all the crap they stick on cars these days for no reason, how long before having knackered aircon is a fail?

 

I can only assume that checking for the FAP gubbins, and catalysts (despite passing emissions tests) is down to pressure from ecomentalists too.

Posted

As a shitter I am worried about the wiring test. I would currently have to replace the sherpas loom!

Posted
As a shitter I am worried about the wiring test. I would currently have to replace the sherpas loom!

 

"Visible wiring".

 

Wrap it in tape, then it's not visible. Or for the more professional look, that fabric loom tape. But either way, and MoTers correct me if I'm wrong, there'll be no removing of outer wrapping allowed to inspect the loom.....

I figure it's more to do with people bodging HID lamps in with shitty connectors, or just wrapping bare wires together and putting an elastoplast over it.

Posted
All light switches must operate the corresponding lights immediately.

I hope immediately doesn't include indicators, because there's a good 2-3 seconds between moving the stalk and getting the first flash of orange light from mine. Seems like a really long time when you're waiting for 'em.

Posted

I guess the steering lock check has some sense, if it wont engage because the things worn out / falling apart / bodged then it's possible it may engage when it's not meant to, maybe this is something that's been happening. Inappropriate modifications gets my vote. I've got one for them, 'Vehicle presented by a twat'.

Posted

Reason for failure # 93458208.001 - 'Lexus' lights fitted to non-Lexus vehicle.

Posted

That's a point, Des. A long time ago a chap driving a mark 2 Cavalier had the steering lock come on while driving down the main road here, resulting in a pretty impressive accident.

Posted
As a shitter I am worried about the wiring test. I would currently have to replace the sherpas

I figure it's more to do with people bodging HID lamps in with shitty connectors, or just wrapping bare wires together and putting an elastoplast over it.

 

 

Ahem.....well thats me fucked

Posted
All light switches must operate the corresponding lights immediately.

I hope immediately doesn't include indicators, because there's a good 2-3 seconds between moving the stalk and getting the first flash of orange light from mine. Seems like a really long time when you're waiting for 'em.

On the plus side, if it does fail on that, a modern electronic replacement is only about £15, and that will ensure nice immediate / regular flashing. I have the same problem with the Innocenti - the indicators had packed up when I bought it, and when I was getting it ready for its MoT the only flasher unit I could find with the right terminal arrangement was an ancient metal cylindrical thing I found at the bottom of a biscuit tin full of spade terminals. It's passed the MoT two years running, but it does take a a second or so to do anything when the switch is flicked, and the indicators also get slower the more electrical gubbins I have running, so if I'm driving in the dark and pissing rain with headlights, front & rear wipers, demister fan and HRW all switched on, they flash about once every two seconds. I've been meaning to get a replacement flasher unit for a while now, just not got round to it yet - looks like I might have to for next year's test though.

Posted

Before squandering money on a new flasher unit you could try wiring in a 5 or 10 watt bulb between the two load terminals of the indicator switch, will increase the current through the unit and hopefully warm it up quicker without altering the flash rate adversely, and you get an extra bright warning lamp.

Posted

It doesn't sound to unfair to me, I can see the airbag warning light upsetting a few folk, The Cat removal will upset a few boy racers, and the 13 pin tow bar sockets will just be a case off cutting the sockets off i guess.

 

And as as Ceri hit upon, Aftermarket rear lighting should be up to a standard where you can actually see the red lights at night and not having to be hitting the car up the arse before you can see them.

Posted

At some point I was planning on re-wiring the headlights with relays, I suppose with this in mind it wouldn't be a big drag to improve the indicators at the same time. Not having to add indicator time to every turn and overtake would be a bonus.

 

Can't honestly see 'lazy indicators' as a reason to fail though.

Posted
and the 13 pin tow bar sockets will just be a case off cutting the sockets off i guess..

 

Most UK caravan sockets are 7 pin. very few cars have the 13 pin euro sockets. Not sure if this would still apply - if so Im fooked as the C8 has a rather iffy caravan 12N socket that is doing some spectacularly weird stuff at the mo. Plans are to rip out the scotchlocked cabling (yeah REALLY sensible given its a bloody 2000Canbus system) and sourcing a plug in 13 pin system.

Posted

 

Can't honestly see 'lazy indicators' as a reason to fail though.

 

Isn't that a failure at the moment? I know a mate had his 32 Model B failed because the indicators flashed too many times within a minute (I think). He went home and put a heavy duty relay in and went back and it just passed on the lower limit. The tester obviously didn't like hot rods as he stood there with a stopwatch counting the flashes!

Posted

 

Can't honestly see 'lazy indicators' as a reason to fail though.

 

Isn't that a failure at the moment? I know a mate had his 32 Model B failed because the indicators flashed too many times within a minute (I think). He went home and put a heavy duty relay in and went back and it just passed on the lower limit. The tester obviously didn't like hot rods as he stood there with a stopwatch counting the flashes!

 

Oh yeah, you're right. "Reason for rejection: does not flash at 60 to 120 times per minute". Clocked mine at 85. 8)

Posted
And as as Ceri hit upon, Aftermarket rear lighting should be up to a standard where you can actually see the red lights at night and not having to be hitting the car up the arse before you can see them.

 

How about non-aftermarket rear lighting?

Lexus lights are often shit but they're in the same boat as loads of new VWs, Fiats and some others I forget - the ones with the indicators within a circular taillamp. I find them very hard to see, yeah they're visible but they don't catch your attention at night when they come on. Form over function.

Will they fail when they hit three years old?

Posted
sure, it 4th hand information already :)

 

Add some more, to dilute it further, and hopefully get it into some shite daily rag.

 

eg:

 

Both headlight lens must be of the same manufacturer. Otherwise, it WILL FAIL.

Bulb filament must be positioned vertically, or it WILL otherwise FAIL.

No sharp (obtuse to 90 degrees) surfaces inside car, incase pedestrian enters the vehicle through windscreen - or IT WILL FAIL.

Driver must not be seen nervously pacing around the waiting area, otherwise THE car WILL BE FAILED.

RANDOM LUCKY DIP FAIL - blindfolded tester is span round with official spin around assistant, and then points at area on car, which will FAIL.

If tester gets dirt on hand/overalls, car WILL FAIL.

If car passes and driver does not show gratitudes for tester's list of advisories, the MOT pass will be CANCELLED, and the car will be FAILED.

Posted

I always find that a freshly washed car, with a washer bottle full, and a bag of toffees on the passenger seat, stands a better chance of passing than one having none of these attributes. You'd be surprised how many vehicles I examine with headlamp bulbs blown, washer bottles empty, split wiper blades, bloody magic trees obscuring vision, and the boot full to the brim of frozen bloody food. DO these people have a fucking clue at all? Their chips and ice-cream will be fucked by the time I've finished the emissions test.

Posted

What everyone should be more upset with is the general bullying of MoT garages/testers by the jobsworths working in the offices. My local garage has been intimidated to the hilt, just because he services and repairs cars also, and objected to having to remove his wiper storage from the workshop to somewhere private. These VOSA people can be a bit like untrained/trained nightclub bouncers if they don't understand something. Anyone read the MoT VOSA inhouse magazine? It is reminiscent of 1930s Germany.

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