Imhotep's ever changing fleet - AX GT, MG ZS180 - AX GT is alive!

[Imhotep]

Boring update today. For some reason the ZS has had a few Rover 45 bits fitted to it, so I’m trying to find the MG stuff. Got an actual MG gearknob for it as mine had a 45 one. Improvement. Further de-Rover-ification in the works.

[Imhotep]

Small updates really. BMW now sold so the neighbours can stop whining about it, and I managed to score a very cheap Blaupunkt radio off eBay last week, fitted it today:

 

Sadly, looking at all the scratches around the frame and the state of the cage on the old stereo, paired with the fact I could remove it with a flathead screwdriver (you can take the boy out of Birmingham, etc) suggests the old radio had been forced in rather than placed properly. On a genuinely unrelated note I’ve got a centre console from a Civic Aerodeck on the way here so I can have electric rear window switches, so I’ll likely make a hybrid of the best parts of the two and that should clean up nicely thankfully. 
 

@Captain Slow and I have a plan involving steering wheel controls, so while I was on the hunt for electrics, I found out my car is prewired for heated seats:

 

And pre wired for electric rear windows (plug behind the right bolt on the handbrake adjuster):

 

I’ve decided to just add them as the work required is minimal. Be fun to strip it down and spec it up anyway. I’ll do electric windows first as I’m no upholsterer and I can’t imagine I’d be any good at fitting seat heater pads into my seats. I’ll do everything except that first. 

[RoverFolkUs]

On 13/02/2025 at 22:58, Imhotep said:

Immobiliser is playing silly beggars too, keeps bleeping at me and refusing to let the car start. Apparently this is a common fault but I’m not 100% how to fix it. And one for Rover/MG lickers - the fuel gauge doesn’t move down to 0 when I turn the engine off, is this normal? 

Does this have a Pektron (circular) Immobilizer fob?

Yes fuel guage is static when switched off, it doesn't drop to zero

[Imhotep]

1 hour ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Does this have a Pektron (circular) Immobilizer fob?

Yes fuel guage is static when switched off, it doesn't drop to zero

It does not, has this type: 

 

Thanks for the info re the fuel gauge, my old man had a 45 but he couldn’t remember if his did it or not!

[Imhotep]

Another small and likely uninteresting for most update but it’s nice to keep tabs on the thing… @Ghosty stopped in today with a centre console from a Civic MB6. This enabled me to have and fit the electric rear window switches to my centre console. First was to strip the old one out and confirm I did indeed have the wiring:

 

While I had it apart I did a quick check to confirm if I 100% had the loom for bum warmers, and I can confirm I do thankfully:

So as I was running out of daylight I popped upstairs to my flat and swapped the switches into the old centre console. Now to do the rest. Could do this all at once but to be honest I’m a bit short on space so I’ll do it as I get them:

 

Next is window motors, door looms and rear switches. Struggling to find the door looms sadly but hopefully I’ll be able to find them soon…

[RoverFolkUs]

On 12/03/2025 at 16:10, Imhotep said:

It does not, has this type: 

 

Thanks for the info re the fuel gauge, my old man had a 45 but he couldn’t remember if his did it or not!

Ah ok, I suspected not on a 2003 but if it did I would have pointed you in the direction of the man that sorted a cloned Pektron BCU for my now-departed ZR

I always used to have a great deal of bother with the Lucas fobs on my 400, how do you unlock the car? Do the buttons work ok or are you using the key? Are you switching the ignition on immediately after getting in or are you leaving it unlocked? Mine was well over 10 years ago so my memory is flaky but I think I discovered a knack of blipping the unlock button before trying to start it otherwise it would have a mind of it's own as to whether it wanted to work. 

[Imhotep]

Condensed fleet a bit and got rid of Sinclair C5 since I was never going to get around to it. Means I can focus on the MG and the AX GT anyway. By that I mean I’ll likely buy something else to avoid working on the AX GT. 
 

Managed to get the A/C gassed up on the ZS, let me tell you, you don’t realise how much you miss air conditioning until you no longer have it. It never worked on my 318d, so I went over a year without any.

Also since I’ve owned the MG, I thought it made a lovely pop/burble when I lifted off throttle. Turns out it was the exhaust smashing off the bumper and exhaust tunnel, so I had that rehung today. Sadly the backbox is so big it still sticks out slightly… Next up is an actual interesting update people might be interested in when I wire in a full hidden phone system to make it look OEM. But that’s not been finished yet and wiring is still being made. As soon as it’s done I’ll share that one as I’m impressed with it. For now have a photo of a centred exhaust that’s not resting on the bumper…

[Imhotep]

Wanted to test a theory today with wiring so I got a very cheap heated seat button to see if all the wiring was there:

To fit these buttons, apparently you need to pull the centre console forwards, yeah, no. I’m small with small hands and I have a hook tool, so instead of doing that I just blindly pushed on the wiring and got it around the hook and pulled it forwards to pull the connector through. I am not pulling a centre console for a connector. Sadly all the sound proofing behind the dash disintegrated and it stinks too (you can see a bit near the gearstick) so now the car needs cleaning out AGAIN, however I can happily report my theory is correct, all the wiring and relays are present for the heated seats, so all I need are seat pads and a button for the driver side:

 

Tuesday I’m collecting everything required to do the rear electric window conversion, so that’ll be on the cards for next weekend.

[Imhotep]

Managed to pick up the electric rear window things with some bonuses. 
 

First bonus were some genuine MG mats, which are brilliant and look a lot better than the 220 Turbo ones that were in there:

 

I do need to get a wet vac on them at some stage but for now they’ll do as they are. I’ve also got to get the black steering wheel fitted, the beige one still looks odd to me and I can’t get used to it.

Anyway, onto the rear electric windows. This was a fucking saga, mostly because of my own lack of ability.

First, I’ve decided to use the original door cards with the window winder hole in. I got the door cards with the window motors and looms but sadly it’s had lights cut into it and I’m not a fan of that, so I’ve decided I’ll just get the original door cards reupholstered to hide away the extra part where the winder hole was, as I think that’ll be easier than it would be to restore these door cards:

 

So, to removing the door card. Christ, what a pain that was. The actual removal of the door card itself wasn’t hard but getting the retaining clip off the window winder was. My trim tool ended up shattering the little chrome ring around the winder unfortunately, so that’s gone. 
 

Then there was the forbidden string cheese:

 

Anyway, managed to get all of the old manual gubbins and wiring out and tried to fit the electric one in. This is where I hit a really daft stumbling block. In my haste to get the parts for an electric rear window conversion, I’ve forgotten the rear window lift relay. I found this out the hard way as when I plugged the window motor in to shift the regulator to meet with the window, nothing happened. After a 25 minute phone call, some ranting about how much I hate cars, and then some more ranting, I finally found a fuse diagram that makes sense and shown me where I needed to be looking for the window lift relay. So temporarily I swapped the front relay into the slot for the rear, crossed my fingers and… Nothing happened. Shit. Must be missing more parts, but I’d come too far. I was at the stage where I was going to attach the motor to the battery to move it up and down. But I thought I’d better try the door handle switch first. As this wasn’t plugged in, I went back to the back of the car and plugged it in.

 

 

 

Then I noticed I hadn’t plugged the window motor in. I mean that’ll do it. So I plugged it in and lo and behold, worked fine. By this stage it was nearly dark and I was annoyed so I called it a day. I now have a car with 3 electric windows, only 2 of which function, and one keep fit window. So I now have less window functionality, and more door card holes. Progress? 

It’ll be progress once I get a window lift regulator for the rear and get the other side fitted anyway, aiming to sum up the courage to do that on Saturday…

 

Starting to be happier with the interior on this car now. Once it’s how I want it to be, I’ll look into having the door cards sorted properly and have the headlining looked at. I won’t pretend I’m any sort of pro at upholstery, I’m awful frankly.

[Imhotep]

Got bored this evening and did the other side too. Figured while I was still covered in grease (because 2 showers wasn’t enough to clean it off apparently… need to buy shares in Swarfega I think)

At least I took photos this time. First off, whip old door card off. That glue that holds that sheet on it disgusting by the way.

Pulled that out and pulled the regulator and wiring out of the door, ready for the new stuff. Ignore the extra wires, whoever owned the breaker car had fitted LED lights into the doors (more on this shortly):

 

Then I had to move the regulator right down, easier to just plug it into the car and do this outside of the door…

 

All fitted and back in, didn’t take too long this.

Door card back on with new door handle with switch!

 

I am very aware there’s a hole where the winder used to be. I have 3 sets of door cards. I’ll use the 3 sets to make one good set eventually… Sadly, the handle also has an LED in it. I’m not a huge fan of that, albeit hidden well. Wouldn’t mind if the entire car had them but it doesn’t, so I’ll leave that unplugged for now…

 

Just need a window lift relay now and it’s all good!

[dean36014]

Some cars used to just put a circular blanking plate over the hole for the winder. Saved money on production costs using the same card I'd imagine.  Measure the hole diameter and have an Internet session,  you might get lucky.

[Imhotep]

That may be the solution for the time being just to neaten it up a little, however as the material is hanging off the door card anyway, I’ll be having them redone at some stage!

[Imhotep]

Stuff what has happened. Went to Scotland in it which determined it IS the clutch causing my gearbox issues, and that the rear budget tyres are dreadful. 

While I was in Scotland I saw these:

 

Also met up with @JMotor and had a go in the Altezza. Very yes.

 

Car is mostly holding up okay to say it’s a fragile 22 year old MG Rover product. The rear tyres were horrible in the wet though (apparently they were less than £35 per side fitted, so that’ll explain that), so I went to my local tyre place for something I recognised the brand name on, and got some Nankangs for £50 a side. Shout out to the tyre place for the price to be honest because the same tyres on Blackcircles are nearly £30 a side more! Only seems right to share the receipt with their details on in case any Birmingham based shiters need tyres…

 

These have vastly improved the car. Much quieter on the road too and the back end of the car feels less loose. Never have had a shit Nankang to be honest. I prefer Yokohamas but this is what they had. And before someone says it yes I know the tyres are 215/45/17 rather than the 205/45/17 they should be. I’ll remedy this when all four have worn out. 
 

Spent time with it yesterday sorting the bodywork, I haven’t got any before (or after) photos but a lot of the small scratches have been polished out, the car has had clay bar treatment and a good polish and wax all over, so now the Typhoon paint looks glorious in the sun and the paint feels like glass. 😎

 

Hopefully next up is a clutch….

[Erebus]

2 minutes ago, Imhotep said:

Stuff what has happened. Went to Scotland in it which determined it IS the clutch causing my gearbox issues, and that the rear budget tyres are dreadful. 

While I was in Scotland I saw these:

 

Also met up with @JMotor and had a go in the Altezza. Very yes.

 

Car is mostly holding up okay to say it’s a fragile 22 year old MG Rover product. The rear tyres were horrible in the wet though (apparently they were less than £35 per side fitted, so that’ll explain that), so I went to my local tyre place for something I recognised the brand name on, and got some Nankangs for £50 a side. Shout out to the tyre place for the price to be honest because the same tyres on Blackcircles are nearly £30 a side more! Only seems right to share the receipt with their details on in case any Birmingham based shiters need tyres…

 

These have vastly improved the car. Much quieter on the road too and the back end of the car feels less loose. Never have had a shit Nankang to be honest. I prefer Yokohamas but this is what they had. And before someone says it yes I know the tyres are 215/45/17 rather than the 205/45/17 they should be. I’ll remedy this when all four have worn out. 
 

Spent time with it yesterday sorting the bodywork, I haven’t got any before (or after) photos but a lot of the small scratches have been polished out, the car has had clay bar treatment and a good polish and wax all over, so now the Typhoon paint looks glorious in the sun and the paint feels like glass. 😎

 

Hopefully next up is a clutch….

Was gonna ask who the tyre company was but that's who I use already!  That's a great price for Nankangs which are one of the few budgets tyres that are any good

[Imhotep]

I’d not use anywhere else in truth. Have to wait a while to be seen to but certainly worth it for the price! 
 

I will get some more premium tyres once the Nankangs and the Avons on the front wear out, but I’d rather get 4x premiums in the right tyre size all at once, but those budgets HAD to go. 

[JMotor]

Glad you enjoyed the Altezza. 

Weird to be a passenger in my own car 😆.

Was really impressed with the ZS. Amazed at how lovely that KV6 is! 

Hopefully you can get the clutch sorted out. It didn't feel too bad. But something felt odd at the same time. 

I feel it could be a long(ish) term car for you as it does AN car well then can switch to being a fun car to throw about while that engine sings. Well it seems to me it's a good car that with a little effort could be a great car.

[Matty]

11 minutes ago, JMotor said:

Glad you enjoyed the Altezza. 

Weird to be a passenger in my own car 😆.

Was really impressed with the ZS. Amazed at how lovely that KV6 is! 

Hopefully you can get the clutch sorted out. It didn't feel too bad. But something felt odd at the same time. 

I feel it could be a long(ish) term car for you as it does AN car well then can switch to being a fun car to throw about while that engine sings. Well it seems to me it's a good car that with a little effort could be a great car.

Scary being a passenger in your own car. "Please be gentle". "The lever doesn't self centre y'know. Be careful not to get 1st by mistake". "That's enough revs for now". And so on 😂

[JMotor]

6 minutes ago, Matty said:

Scary being a passenger in your own car. "Please be gentle". "The lever doesn't self centre y'know. Be careful not to get 1st by mistake". "That's enough revs for now". And so on 😂

Could be wrong. 

But I kinda remember asking him to stay in gear and actually give it some 😆.

I do fully get what you mean too. As I have done the same.

 

 

[Imhotep]

Most of the fettle it needs is odd jobs that haven’t been done due to being awkward/expensive to be honest. Clutch I’ve mentioned, it’s also got an oil breather with a hole in that’s weeping a tad, part is fairly cheap (about £25) but it’s a faff to fit as it goes under the inlet, which rattles so that also needs replaced - will do both of those at the same time. Brakes ideally need changing as I’ve got a warped disk and they were quite cheap brakes to begin with too. Tyres now done, last thing is the starter motor sticks slightly. It’s nothing too difficult really, but I also know the previous owner really didn’t use it much (think in the 4 years he had it the car did about 5000 miles), so it’s very likely he wouldn’t have felt it necessary to do. He kept it serviced and had it welded when it needed doing, but if it wasn’t immediately necessary, it was left. However as I rely on it as a daily driver, I will get these jobs done.

[Imhotep]

Bonus* update! The £6 relay that cost me £6 to have posted to me (so £12 for those that struggle with year 1 maths) has arrived. This means all the windows now work! Aww yis. 
 

[outlaw118]

Just caught up with this, love the 180; @nev_jr had a Trophy Yellow 4 door, and that KV6 I found initially a bit tame - until I was advised to wring it's neck, then fun and noise happened.

Re: the door cards, the materials had gone baggy on young 'uns one, so we had a go at flocking in a DIY stylee. 

Strip all the old material and glue off, sand it down, apply a gluey type stuff, then puff these little fibres out of a squeezy bottle onto the sticky bits.

The results improved as we went along tbh, but were certainly passable. Bit velevety, bit alcantara-y....

Got the kit of eBay IIRC.

DO NOT DO THIS IN THE KITCHEN - the glue fucking stinks and the fibres will annoy the Head Of Domestic management

[Imhotep]

Thanks for the tip, I hadn’t actually thought of flocking them, and it does make sense actually, I’d imagine it’d be a bit harder wearing too! 
 

Before I do that though I’m going to invest in some Dynamat and put it inside the door cards to quieten it down a tad on the road, Dynamat isn’t too heavy so it wouldn’t be a significant problem really in terms of adding weight to the car. 

[nev_jr]

It definitely got better once we got used to doing it so the spread was more even, and I never got any comments about it. Also quite a common thing to do I read at the time of ownership.

And yes, the glue fucking stinks so we were relegated to the garage.

[Imhotep]

Decided to try and resurrect an old friend today. So I got the trusty MG…

Opened the garage, and moved some stuff and found this lurking under everything:

 

Hasn't been started since 2022. Battery obviously totally flat, so I got the MG and tried to jump it…

Sadly,  no dice. I think it’s something really simple since it happily cranks over but doesn’t fire, like the fact the inline filter in the engine bay is still dry after trying to fire it… Guess I need to buy some petrol.

More on this gripping* saga of a man trying to start a car when I find a fuel can and remember to fill it.

Upside is it’s given me some motivation to actually do something with it so I’m going to tidy the garage, sell some of the bits and bin some of the others so I have room to work on it, and start stripping the thing down a tad.

[Imhotep]

Got a can of Tescos finest E10 for the AX GT (yes I know it needs E5 but it’s what Tesco had, I only put a couple of litres in anyway).

Took some persuading but it fired up eventually. Still as eager as ever. Now I’ve been discussing welding with somebody who is also mechanically minded, and will assist me with the engine work. The plan is to do the engine work here in Birmingham and have it running and driving properly first, and then we’re dragging it away to another part of the country to do all the welding. After that it’s very simple things (comparatively) - I need to fit the replacement interior and engine loom, have the windscreen replaced, and eventually respray the car, though that’ll be a few years away yet unfortunately. Essentially my plan is to have it patched up to the point it could pass a test by the end of the year with some luck…