Mechanics' know-how

[mrcitroen]

Grease your screws! If you're screwing into wood, rub a bit of grease or candle wax on the thread. It goes in a bit easier and when you have to remove it later it'll come back out again. (Only really applicable to old buses and older cars but hey, it works)

Was taught that by my dad when I was a nipper. Brilliant trick when putting larger screws into hardwood.

[derskine]

the cheap (£15 ish ) sealey torx/allen/ spline bit kit is great for beating into rounded allen bolts / torxs etc . Cheap enough to be disposable but good enough to do the job . Also can be used to get broken ka spark plugs out too.

 

Interesting, might need to get some as the Halfords advanced ones I have are crap, I've broken 3 of them.

[sierraman]

Get a decent mains drill, with some good bits. Invaluable for inevitable bust off bolts etc.

 

Angled pliers dead handy for anything really

 

Use some copper ease when you are assembling suspension etc, save hours drilling bolts put etc when you have to take it apart

 

Best advice I could give would be learn off an actual mechanic rather than one of these fellas that spends 8 hours a day changing oil in a main dealers. Someone used to seized fasteners, welding plates, fitting used parts etc...

[dave21478]

Grease your screws! If you're screwing into wood, rub a bit of grease or candle wax on the thread. It goes in a bit easier and when you have to remove it later it'll come back out again. (Only really applicable to old buses and older cars but hey, it works)

I had a 306 Cabriolet where the number of interior fastenings that had been replaced with chipboard screws was a lot higher than I like my cars to be.

[Parky]

Pela pump saves loads of time when changing oil. Everyone in my street/family borrows mine! Decent oil filter wrench is always a good thing to have, but I also like the BFO breaker bar, especially when trying to remove wheels. I invariably find the average KwikFit fitter tends to take the manufacturers recommended torque settings and multiplies it by a factor of three or four when refitting.

[lovejoy]

the cheap (£15 ish ) sealey torx/allen/ spline bit kit is great for beating into rounded allen bolts / torxs etc . Cheap enough to be disposable but good enough to do the job . Also can be used to get broken ka spark plugs out too.

Pictures / photo please, Shirley ....

[twosmoke300]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-AK219-TRX-STAR-SPLINE-HEX-BIT-SET-42Pc-3-8-1-2-/331396624191?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d28c72f3f

 

 

[pshome]

[PiperCub]

Goggles? Prefer proper safety specs as they don't mist up so bad - the wrap around ones (like clear versions of those shades people who think they are uber-cool wear indoors).

 

Latex gloves: Nitrile are way better, last longer, don't get disolved by petrol or solvents, resist tearing, only a quid or so a box of 100 more expensive.

 

Fibreglass pencil: Mega useful, first came across these doing electronic maint. brilliant for cleaning contacts.

 

Ratchet spanners: Only got a good set a few years ago and wonder why I waited so long, wouldn't be without them.

 

Timing belt lock-up/alignment tools: Often worth buying as they are frequently cheap for our cars. Look on interweb before doing the job as you may be surprised how little they cost and will save a load of time fabricating or just faffing about without them. (eg: for Pug XUD - about £7 from Laser).

[sierraman]

I'll second about the breaker bar. Essential I would say for any suspension work. Once watched a neighbour use one to go FBT on some spark plugs though...

[PiperCub]

^^^ Good point, left that one out. My Sealey B/Bar is invaluable.

[fordperv]

A vice is a valuable thing to have, when I first got one at home in wondered how i survived without it, as is a tap and die set

[Luckythirteen]

Seconded for the nitrile gloves vs latex. Ma pinches them from work, and at least the NHS spec ones are way tougher than latex.

[The Moog]

The sealey torx bits are guaranteed for life as well (apart from one)

[cobblers]

For gloves, I find it best to buy some fabric gloves with a PU face, like these:

 

 

And wear a pair of latex/nitrile/whatever gloves underneath. The fabric gloves protect the rubber ones so they last all day, and the rubber gloves keep the fluid/oil off you.

[derskine]

A good set of taps and dies comes in very handy for those threads you've slightly knackered.

I can't comment on any recommendations of good value ones as I got a load from work.

I previously had a cheap set but they were rubbish.

 

Helicoil sets I guess are useful too but are expensive.

[mat_the_cat]

A vice is a valuable thing to have

 

If you build up a collection does that make you a man of many vices?

[twosmoke300]

If you get enough you might get a Record

[dave21478]

A good set of taps and dies comes in very handy for those threads you've slightly knackered.

I can't comment on any recommendations of good value ones as I got a load from work.

I previously had a cheap set but they were rubbish.

 

Helicoil sets I guess are useful too but are expensive.

I found the best bet is to buy a cheap set of taps and dies, and replace the commonly used ones as they wear out with decent quality ones. You rarely use the larger and smaller ones in a set, but they are handy to have for those occasional jobs so no point spending big money on them, but the ones you use a lot like M8 need to be decent.

 

 

As for helicoils, I got a big set off ebay for about £25 iirc, which goes from M5 up to M12. I have only used it 4 or 5 times in a few years, but I am bloody glad I have it as its got me out of some tight spots.

this style of set....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131-Piece-Helicoil-Type-Thread-Repair-Kit-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-Twist-Drill-Bits-/221602145459?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item33988464b3

I am sure its not astronaut quality, but its done cylinder head stuff, engine mounts and downpipe studs on a turbo with no problems.

[derskine]

I found the best bet is to buy a cheap set of taps and dies, and replace the commonly used ones as they wear out with decent quality ones. You rarely use the larger and smaller ones in a set, but they are handy to have for those occasional jobs so no point spending big money on them, but the ones you use a lot like M8 need to be decent.

 

 

As for helicoils, I got a big set off ebay for about £25 iirc, which goes from M5 up to M12. I have only used it 4 or 5 times in a few years, but I am bloody glad I have it as its got me out of some tight spots.

this style of set....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131-Piece-Helicoil-Type-Thread-Repair-Kit-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-Twist-Drill-Bits-/221602145459?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item33988464b3

I am sure its not astronaut quality, but its done cylinder head stuff, engine mounts and downpipe studs on a turbo with no problems.

 

Might have to get that, problem is I need to get an imperial set too.

[OwdChina]

Evening All,

Now...to be honest, mostly I've started taking vehicles to a mechanic when shit goes wrong. Just don't seem to

have the time or energy to do home repairs anymore.

However, every now an then something happens that I just don't trust a mechanic with, and of coarse the cost if

they fuck it up, small job turn into expensive disaster etc.

 

 

Snapped exhaust manifold bolts.

 

 

 

tools needed

 

 

There is not a lot of room to work in here. No way to use a dot punch and hammer, so a spring loaded punch is the only

option. And a small angle drill, cobalt pilot bit and good quality easy out. The pilot hole must be dead center,

it may be a problem later if it is not.

 

 

Do not snap the easy out, that's a headache. If it feels really tight, then stop, there's more than one way to skin

a cat.

 

 

Plan comes together, that's one bank done.

 

[PiperCub]

I found the best bet is to buy a cheap set of taps and dies, and replace the commonly used ones as they wear out with decent quality ones. You rarely use the larger and smaller ones in a set, but they are handy to have for those occasional jobs so no point spending big money on them, but the ones you use a lot like M8 need to be decent.

 

 

As for helicoils, I got a big set off ebay for about £25 iirc, which goes from M5 up to M12. I have only used it 4 or 5 times in a few years, but I am bloody glad I have it as its got me out of some tight spots.

this style of set....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131-Piece-Helicoil-Type-Thread-Repair-Kit-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-Twist-Drill-Bits-/221602145459?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item33988464b3

I am sure its not astronaut quality, but its done cylinder head stuff, engine mounts and downpipe studs on a turbo with no problems.

 

Thanks for the link - the last helicoil kit I bought a couple of years back was that much for one size only! Just bought this kit now, cheers

[Bren]

Mig welder.

 

Not just good for rust repairs, you can knock up heath robinson type tools to get you out of the shit, they are also good for removing broken studs if there is enough protruding.

[Uncle Jimmy]

Best advice I could give would be learn off an actual mechanic rather than one of these fellas that spends 8 hours a day changing oil in a main dealers. Someone used to seized fasteners, welding plates, fitting used parts etc...

Spot on. These men are becoming rare, they lurk in sheds and garages often displaying anti social behaviour, they can with patience, be herded using ciggies, beer and fatty food.

[chodweaver]

Back to the application of heat to shift things - I found a foot square piece of asbestos in my garage - I don't cut it or abuse it in any way other than place it behind what I'm blasting with a torch - particularly suspension components - so I don't heat up bodywork, underseal, brake pipes, wires or rubber boots/bungs etc. For smaller spaces, I use an old bathroom tile - just as good at not passing the heat back, and after you can pick it up and move it with a gloved hand without fear of fried fingers.

[twosmoke300]

You rang ?

[Bren]

Spot on. These men are becoming rare, they lurk in sheds and garages often displaying anti social behaviour, they can with patience, be herded using ciggies, beer and fatty food.

Whisky for me - preferably a malt.

[explosive-cabbage]

Does anyone have one of those 240V heating probe things? A bit like a larger, more powerful version of a soldering iron, used to apply heat to specific places when undoing seized fastners? I recall seeing one in LRO magazine...

[Bren]

Do you mean one of those "invisible heat" things?

 

They are expensive.

[the judge]

For lead loading i think. Used one years ago