1963 Mercedes Benz 190DC Fintail. Bad fuel tank and leaks.

[juular]

You aren't hanging around! 

[Zelandeth]

1 hour ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

The next thing was the glow light / heat resistor or whatever it's called for the glowplugs in the dashboard, this doesn't work. And a new part for this is no longer available, so I bought a new one for an International tractor instead.

I don't think there are any differences between these and both are 12 volts and the bit inside is the same thickness.

And with a new one, it works again.

But the first time I tested the new one, there was a little smoke, which scared me, but this cleared up, so it was probably just something that had to be burned off.

But this system still doesn't work but I'm getting new glow plugs soon and that should fix it.

I'm trying to figure out a good reason to use a setup like that rather than just a light bulb...or indeed having a red hot ballast resistor tucked away safely away from prying fingers in a metal box and a separate light...

I'm assuming it's in series with the glow plugs...though I'd expect to see no activity there then if the plugs had failed (unless they've failed short... though I've not seen that happen often as they're not far off a short circuit to start with).

Just isn't a setup I've ever come across before anywhere, so I'm intrigued.

Edit: Guessing it may be so the ambient temperature affects both how long that and the glow plugs take to warm up, so you know how long to preheat for (I'm assuming it's a manual control).  That's about the only thing which makes sense to my brain anyway.

[Dyslexic Viking]

1 hour ago, Zelandeth said:

I'm trying to figure out a good reason to use a setup like that rather than just a light bulb...or indeed having a red hot ballast resistor tucked away safely away from prying fingers in a metal box and a separate light...

I'm assuming it's in series with the glow plugs...though I'd expect to see no activity there then if the plugs had failed (unless they've failed short... though I've not seen that happen often as they're not far off a short circuit to start with).

Just isn't a setup I've ever come across before anywhere, so I'm intrigued.

Edit: Guessing it may be so the ambient temperature affects both how long that and the glow plugs take to warm up, so you know how long to preheat for (I'm assuming it's a manual control).  That's about the only thing which makes sense to my brain anyway.

I have no idea how this works but would also like to know how it works. But I can't find much information about this. And it's a bit frustrating as I would like to know if this system will work properly with the tractor part. 

And the glow plugs for these are connected in series, so if one goes, they all go. And this is common, so therefore I want to change them.

There is some info in the video below but it doesn't help me much.

Tom also made a video about these where there is some info as well.

 

[Dyslexic Viking]

2 hours ago, juular said:

You aren't hanging around! 

I might have a problem. I like working on and improving this so much that I can hardly relax and do something else and want to spend all my free time on it.

 

[Rightnider]

Wonderful car and thread! 

[Joey spud]

My 1983 Daihatsu F50 had a similar glow plug set up on its dash.

From memory you held the ignition key over to the left and the glow plug light/coil would slowly start to heat up and finally glow bright red. For a cold  start a steady count to 15 was required before the key was turned to the start position.

The system worked well and was probably more reliable than a timer relay.

[Dyslexic Viking]

I'm quite surprised that this was used in the 80s by some. As I would assume this was something that quickly became outdated.

But as you say, this system is probably reliable and it is simple, so it was probably preferred by some because of that.

[320touring]

 

May be worth having a look through this playlist. His presenting style is 'unique' but the knowledge there is good 

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtRKk64pu2wpQBZU9mSxKU2Wb-iSabXIT

[juular]

3 hours ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

I might have a problem. I like working on and improving this so much that I can hardly relax and do something else and want to spend all my free time on it.

 

There are worse things to get hooked on.

Not a problem now that you're on the support group (read: enabling group).

[808 Estate]

Wow so much epic.
Where has this thread been hiding. I cant wait for the next installment.

[somewhatfoolish]

On 8/24/2022 at 10:06 PM, Mrs6C said:

A small block of wood of the correct thickness, placed between the torch and the metal you are welding, is a useful as a spacer for the wire tip,  to keep a consistent distance between it and the metal. You slide the wooden block along the metal as you weld it. Also, be sure to push the torch forwards and away from you rather than pulling it back towards you, to make sure you are always welding into a little pocket of gas and keeping oxygen away from the fresh weld.

Won't matter here as it's cored wire, the important thing is to practice and adjust settings until it produces the best results.

[Datsuncog]

16 hours ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

And I also got new seals / gaskets for the bootlid today as the old ones are completely ruined and let in a lot of water.

But I forgot the glue for the new one. But I don't know what to use, do any of you have any recommendations for the type of glue for this?

Great progress!

It may not be the 'correct' glue, but when I replaced the bootlid seal on my Vauxhall Viva (a long time ago) a rubber-based glue was recommended to hold it in place.

I didn't have any, so I used latex-based Copydex and that seemed to hold it alright for all the years I owned it. It stayed in place and there was never any water in the boot, anyway.

Hopefully someone with greater knowledge will be able to confirm if this is correct!

[Dyslexic Viking]

Thanks. Unfortunately, Copydex does not seem to be available in Norway. I have a tube of Casco Xstremfix+ that I wonder if I can use for this. I'll have to read a bit about this and see if it can be used for this. 

But would appreciate it if someone here has experience of gluing rubber products on cars could share some of their knowledge. As I have not done this before.

[Dyslexic Viking]

4 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

I have a tube of Casco Xstremfix+ that I wonder if I can use for this

This is roughly translated from their website and seems promising.

 

Casco XtremFix+ has an even faster and stronger bite!
Powerful speed-hardening assembly adhesive developed for indoor and outdoor gluing of various objects such as stone, brick, window and door frames, mirrors and hooks in bathrooms, etc.

Sealing properties and excellent adhesion to most materials. The adhesive joint can take up irregularities of several millimeters. Extremely high instant adhesion. Adjustments are possible within the first minute. High strength, mechanical resistance and E-module. Very good aging properties and temperature resistance. No shrinkage and extremely good joint filling properties. Read more in the brochure here: Read more in the brochure here:

Immediately fix 200 kg/m2 vertically and 1000 kg horizontally.
Holds 5 tonnes per m2 after grazing!
Extreme instant adhesion
Adjustments are possible within the first minute
High strength, mechanical resistance and E-module
Good aging resistance
Very low emissions M1 and EC1 Plus
Has excellent joint filling properties and does not shrink

[Mr Pastry]

You want a contact adhesive such as Evo-Stik, if that is available where you are.   Basically rubber solution. 

[Dyslexic Viking]

Thanks, will see if it is available here.

[Mr Pastry]

It doesn't actually need to be super-strength, because you may need to get the moulding off again in future without damaging it. 

[Dyslexic Viking]

Evo Stik is also not available here either. I could have bought something from the UK and had it sent here, but it would be more expensive than if I find something in Norway.

I have tried to search for rubber glue without finding anything. But I keep looking. The glue I have will probably work but is a bit strong but this doesn't need to come off again so maybe I should just use it, not sure.

[PhilA]

I found brush-on contact adhesive works fine. Anything that states rubber in the list of "sticks together" should do.

Find the box with the most warnings on it, those tend to work better as they have more volatile vulcanising agents in, which bond to the rubber better.

The worse the VOC rating, usually the better the adhesive when it comes to rubber parts.

[CreepingJesus]

I go straight to spray contact adhesive for anything upholstery or trim. It should be available just about anywhere, from art, hobby, or office supply shops (although the latter is usually cheapest). It can be a bit of a faff to get into the U-channels on seals of this type, being a spray, but it has the upside that you get time to manoeuvre the piece into place while it flashes off. Once it's had its thirty seconds (or minute, or whatever the instructions say) you're ready to press home what you're working on. That's a big advantage when you're working along a length in stages.

Love the car and the thread by the way!

[Dyslexic Viking]

I think I have found a product that I can use to glue this.

3m black weatherstrip adhesive  which is made for exactly this and it is not expensive and is easy to get hold of and has good reviews.

So I think I will go for this.

[PhilA]

20 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

3m black weatherstrip adhesive

Suitable number of WARNING DANGER paragraphs on the box. Should work!

[Dyslexic Viking]

Checked the package tracking on the lift pump and it had arrived at my local post office. So after a 40 km round trip, the new lift pump has arrived.

And I'm sorry, there weren't a lot of pictures because I was a bit eager. But this is what the new pump looks like.

And here is a reminder of what the old one looks like.

So some differences. Then i took off the fittings and screwed on one of the old pump and this fits on the new pump.

Then I tried it on the engine.

And this seems to fit. The only thing is that I can't easily slide it all the way in. I think the reason for this is that since the lift pump is new the spring that presses on the part that rides on the lobe on the camshaft in the main diesel pump is stiff. The part that does this is marked in red below and this moves in and out.

And I don't think that a to stiff spring can cause problems, hope not. But it is impossible to know what the old pump was like as it is worn out so have to guess that it was also stiff when it was new.

So now it's getting close to trying to start the engine. Is just one more package I'm waiting for, which will probably arrive on Monday.

[RayMK]

3 hours ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

Checked the package tracking on the lift pump and it had arrived at my local post office. So after a 40 km round trip, the new lift pump has arrived.

And I'm sorry, there weren't a lot of pictures because I was a bit eager. But this is what the new pump looks like.

And here is a reminder of what the old one looks like.

So some differences. Then i took off the fittings and screwed on one of the old pump and this fits on the new pump.

Then I tried it on the engine.

And this seems to fit. The only thing is that I can't easily slide it all the way in. I think the reason for this is that since the lift pump is new the spring that presses on the part that rides on the lobe on the camshaft in the main diesel pump is stiff. The part that does this is marked in red below and this moves in and out.

And I don't think that a to stiff spring can cause problems, hope not. But it is impossible to know what the old pump was like as it is worn out so have to guess that it was also stiff when it was new.

So now it's getting close to trying to start the engine. Is just one more package I'm waiting for, which will probably arrive on Monday.

Is it possible that the cam that drives the pump has stopped on a high point i.e. would rotating the engine by hand (or rocking it in gear because diesel) make the pump easier to fit?

[PhilA]

They'll be stiff - a non-lever assisted pump like that will be very hard to press.

The spring has to be very firm so the roller follows the eccentric and doesn't bounce or float. 

At 3000 crank RPM the camshaft is turning 1500; that is still 25 pumps per second!

[Dyslexic Viking]

8 hours ago, RayMK said:

Is it possible that the cam that drives the pump has stopped on a high point i.e. would rotating the engine by hand (or rocking it in gear because diesel) make the pump easier to fit?

That's a good idea, I hadn't thought of that. So I will try / check that. Thanks!

[Dyslexic Viking]

4 hours ago, PhilA said:

They'll be stiff - a non-lever assisted pump like that will be very hard to press.

The spring has to be very firm so the roller follows the eccentric and doesn't bounce or float. 

At 3000 crank RPM the camshaft is turning 1500; that is still 25 pumps per second!

This is good to know as I have no experience with these pumps so it seems almost too stiff for me. But then it should probably be like this.

[Dyslexic Viking]

Started today to replace the glow plugs and these have clearly been here for a long time.

Cylinders 1 and 2 were changed without problem, but on cylinder 3 the problems started. It is tight here so there is little room for tools and the glow plugs are 21 mm which makes it difficult as I have few tools in this size. So I ended up modifying tools but unfortunately got nothing to work. And Cyl 4 is the same.

So I have to have a new tool so there will be another delay before it can be tried to start. And I want new glow plugs in before I try to start it.

And after this I assembled the new lift pump.

But one thing that was surprising was that it came with a new gasket and this one is for the newer type of lift pump on Mercedes diesels so it doesn't fit.

Then the next thing was to attach this to the engine. And I had problems when I tried yesterday to get this pressed in enough to enter the nuts on the threads but RayMK  suggested yesterday to turn over the engine so the lobe the pump rides on will go in. Don't know why I didn't think of that but after doing that I got the pump in enough to get the nuts on and now the pump is mounted on the engine.

So I'm very close to having a running engine now.

[junkyarddog]

Just be very careful undoing those glow plugs,a snapped one is a pain in the hoop,ask me how I know🙄

[Dyslexic Viking]

Yes, Im trying to be careful with them. Hope I can get the last 2 glow plugs out without any problems.