Fun in the bath.

[LightBulbFun]

1 hour ago, red5 said:

How fast did you go previously?

 

I managed maybe about 22? but mostly less then 20 and it was not quick acceleration like your video I mean its all a 20 limit around here and the brakes where obviously dragging something horrid at the time! so I dared not go any faster LOL

to fully test the function/full range of the CVT you would need to get her up to 50Mph, (45mph is when the pulleys are at maximum extension and it goes into fixed ratio mode) she is fully taxed and insured/on the MID, so if you have your own insurance that covers driving other peoples cars, I am more then happy for you take her up the bypass to fully exercise everything

a Model 70 in good health/state of tune should be able to maintain 60Mph (I am using @Zelandeth's TPA for my reference here, thats also why I was wondering about the timing, since I believe he runs with 15 degrees of advance, or at least thats what his is frozen at!)

[red5]

Update.

 

It starts off key and choke, properly.

It's not at 15dg btdc - I can set it to that if you wish?

Sam

[red5]

Yeah, no.

Front kp is hanging.

Can't upload video, but it is.

 

[LightBulbFun]

55 minutes ago, red5 said:

Update.

 

It starts off key and choke, properly.

It's not at 15dg btdc - I can set it to that if you wish?

Sam

Awesome glad to hear it starts!

I think 15 degrees before top dead centre (thats the same as 15 degrees of advance right?)

 

would be a reasonable amount of advanced, certainly @Zelandeth's seems to go well with that setting, and I have not heard any reports of pinking or such  

https://autoshite.com/topic/29443-zels-motoring-adventurespeugeot-renault-rover-trabant-invacar-a-sinclair-c5-2701-reassembling-a-trabant-interior/page/141/#comment-2497157

but obviously if you think thats a bad idea do let me know!

[red5]

I think it's over advanced at that tbh, but I need a reliable dynamic timing setting - the manual gives static in mm blah blah.

 

The indicator is currently on the lh side as to facilitate rh throttle, lh indicator operation - leave it there?

[LightBulbFun]

16 minutes ago, red5 said:

I think it's over advanced at that tbh, but I need a reliable dynamic timing setting - the manual gives static in mm blah blah.

 

The indicator is currently on the lh side as to facilitate rh throttle, lh indicator operation - leave it there?

in the link above, Zel hooks TPA up to a timing light and takes some at idle and at speed timing measurements if thats the sort of information your looking for?

 

im happy to leave the indicator stalk alone if you have got it all behaving itself  

 

26 minutes ago, red5 said:

Yeah, no.

Front kp is hanging.

Can't upload video, but it is.

not exactly what I wanted to hear of course given that it sounds like it might be a PITA to sort, but I am glad thats it been checked and moves can be made to rectifying it, so thank you for checking  

thats one of those long time things that have been bugging me for some time, so im glad we know what it is for sure now  

[LightBulbFun]

1 hour ago, red5 said:

Yeah, no.

Front kp is hanging.

Can't upload video, but it is.

35 minutes ago, LightBulbFun said:

not exactly what I wanted to hear of course given that it sounds like it might be a PITA to sort, but I am glad thats it been checked and moves can be made to rectifying it, so thank you for checking  

thats one of those long time things that have been bugging me for some time, so im glad we know what it is for sure now  

just poked a contact of mine regarding the issue now I had it confirmed and just got this back

Quote

 From memory, I think I’ve got loads of those king pin kits so, one has your name on it!

which is exactly the sort of good news I need right now  fingers crossed they are what they are remembered to be once my contact is able to go check in on them  

[plasticvandan]

Might be worth seeing wether a reliant kingpin is the same...

[Christine]

Is it a bastard job Dan ?

[plasticvandan]

It's not the easiest job,usually requiring a reamer. On the Reliant removing the tapered peg that locks it in place is the worst part.

[red5]

4 minutes ago, plasticvandan said:

It's not the easiest job,usually requiring a reamer. On the Reliant removing the tapered peg that locks it in place is the worst part.

We used to drill out (the centre) of tapered pegs rather than try and knock it out. 

Half the time you couldn't see which end was which.

[plasticvandan]

To be fair to the pigs I only ever had to do a couple,most of the time a good greasing would sort them out,I never had too much issue with the kingpins,and only had one that was really worn,front tyre bald on one side 

[Christine]

I can see a 3 wheeler Reliant , with an engine in the front   ,does put an unfair load on the   kingpin ..with  steering and braking  all going through that single pivot ,  but an   Invacare , with the motor in the back... blimey  25k miles and it's worn out .. ! 

[catsinthewelder]

Presumably designed for very regular maintenance with the NHS workshop and didn't receive it in private use 😐

[Christine]

With the carb spindle worn out too , perhaps it has a  really high mileage , but has been clocked or speedo swap .  

[LightBulbFun]

4 minutes ago, Christine said:

With the carb spindle worn out too , perhaps it has a  really high mileage , but has been clocked or speedo swap .  

its not impossible, maybe she has gone round the clock   I have certainly seen a few high milage heroes  

 

this particular Model 70 is the one with the highest known milage 

but you would not think it looking at it!

[RayMK]

Reliants are lightweight cars and the engine sits behind the front wheel, its rear end protruding into the cab, so king pin loads are not really an issue. As @catsinthewelder says, most king pin designs require frequent greasing. Every 500-1000 miles was typical but on three wheelers access to the single front wheel was a bit of a stretch or a crawl underneath and was often neglected entirely or not greased often enough.  Depending on the kingpin design, the result of such neglect can cause the bushes (=pivot bearings) to seize and start to turn in the casting, or worse, the kingpin itself starting to turn in its location bore.  Kingpins are usually a light interference fit in the suspension arm or axle/hub carrier and not intended to turn within it.  Either of these cases will require machining of the bearing housing or hub carrier if they have worn oval and more games with special oversized bushes or  a sleeved kingpin, both far from ideal and usually resulting in the worn items being scrapped and a  new/serviceable hub carrier and suspension arm being found.  Once suitable components have been sourced, king pin bushes usually require line reaming after installation as they are supplied with an undersized internal diameter to allow for such machining and to ensure that they are correctly aligned for the king pin to pivot.   All relatively straightforward with the right expertise and facilities if you can find the necessary replacement parts.

As an aside, my 1961 Reliant needed a new kingpin when I bought  it with 98K on the clock.  A Reliant dealer did the work but the kingpin was being gripped so tightly by the new line reamed bearings that steering was very hard work.  I pulled it all apart and eased the bushing internal bores towards the max tolerance and all was well and has been ever since.  More recent Reliants had needle roller king pin bearings which allowed slightly longer servicing intervals.  

[Dobloseven]

8 minutes ago, RayMK said:

Reliants are lightweight cars and the engine sits behind the front wheel, its rear end protruding into the cab, so king pin loads are not really an issue. As @catsinthewelder says, most king pin designs require frequent greasing. Every 500-1000 miles was typical but on three wheelers access to the single front wheel was a bit of a stretch or a crawl underneath and was often neglected entirely or not greased often enough.  Depending on the kingpin design, the result of such neglect can cause the bushes (=pivot bearings) to seize and start to turn in the casting, or worse, the kingpin itself starting to turn in its location bore.  Kingpins are usually a light interference fit in the suspension arm or axle/hub carrier and not intended to turn within it.  Either of these cases will require machining of the bearing housing or hub carrier if they have worn oval and more games with special oversized bushes or  a sleeved kingpin, both far from ideal and usually resulting in the worn items being scrapped and a  new/serviceable hub carrier and suspension arm being found.  Once suitable components have been sourced, king pin bushes usually require line reaming after installation as they are supplied with an undersized internal diameter to allow for such machining and to ensure that they are correctly aligned for the king pin to pivot.   All relatively straightforward with the right expertise and facilities if you can find the necessary replacement parts.

As an aside, my 1961 Reliant needed a new kingpin when I bought  it with 98K on the clock.  A Reliant dealer did the work but the kingpin was being gripped so tightly by the new line reamed bearings that steering was very hard work.  I pulled it all apart and eased the bushing internal bores towards the max tolerance and all was well and has been ever since.  More recent Reliants had needle roller king pin bearings which allowed slightly longer servicing intervals.  

A Bfg type case of taking it to the experts and then having to take it apart again to put it right!Might be dreaming it,but sure Sam Glover in his PC days had a Bond 875 which used plastic bushes in the steering swivel.

[RayMK]

1 minute ago, Dobloseven said:

A Bfg type case of taking it to the experts and then having to take it apart again to put it right!

Yes.  This was back in the 1990s.  To be fair to the dealer, they had reamed the bushes within tolerance but they only had the suspension arm and hub carrier, not the whole car.  Once assembled to the car, it was clear that further easing was necessary or a diet of spinach (à la Popeye), again showing my age!

[DodgeRover]

Regarding ignition timing,  fuel has changed so much since those days it's probably best just to set it to what works and ignore any specific figures.

[Dobloseven]

Problem is possibly going to be the reamer,used to make the bloody things back in my toolroom days!Though adjustable ones seem to be available for £not much.

 

[SiC]

I can't imagine the many miles it's done over the rough FoD has done those kingpin much good unfortunately. Sadly I suspect many who rode in her wasn't so gentle or slow. 

[Christine]

Very awesome comment Sic .  Grease dried out over the years  , metal on metal ? 

[SiC]

When I see videos and pictures of it bouncing along the field at a fair lick, the mechanical sympathy in me pulls a grimace face. 😬

[Dobloseven]

10 hours ago, SiC said:

I can't imagine the many miles it's done over the rough FoD has done those kingpin much good unfortunately. Sadly I suspect many who rode in her wasn't so gentle or slow. 

You're making her sound like a lady of easy virtue!