THE GUBBERMINT ALWAYS KNOWS BEST

[dollywobbler]

Piss off Blitz. In my experience, there's nowt wrong with Renaults. There's nowt evil about them!

 

Well, older ones. Scenics do seem evil when you consider what Ceri's did. Sorry to hear that Ceri. What a shitter!

[M'coli]

I use an ex-mailvan J4 clubman (sherpa/ldv 200 thing) as an everyday hack, and offered to help my mate move house. the steering's always been a bit shite, but after loading it up and taking his stuff to the new place it was a struggle to keep it in a straight line at anything over 40 mph. got it jacked up, discovered n/s kingpin is totally twatted. arse.

everyone reckons its a nasty job so its getting parked up for now and I'll resort to bancrupting myself with petrol costs in the old faithful ovlov 740.

moral? don't put a ton of workshop junk in a 18 year old piece of leyland shite.

been told its about 300 quid for a garage to do it (yeah right) and I don't have a press to get the old kingpin out. any ideas, bearing in mind i'm skint? don't wanna scrap it, its a neat veg oil burner

Dr Heat and the Big Club.

Lots of heat and a big f-off hammer and drift.

[M'coli]

Try fucking reaching around the A-pillar at 120MPH at Road America, while Simpson-belted in, in a Turbo 505, to manually wipe the windshield wipers with a cord during a rain squall, with all sorts of snorting SSGTs, SSAs, SSBs, and SSCs 2-inches in front, back, and sides, expecting you to have your car fully functional, you know, like any other goddam new car in the world but one with French Electrics!!!!)

If I had the chance to drive around Road America I'd make damn sure my wipers were up to the job - that place rocks.

[dollywobbler]

When did I ever say I wanted a drive free of French cars? Seems a bit of an odd thing to say when the only car I often trust to drive long distance is a 602cc French car...

 

The BX is the best car I've ever owned. I now regret selling it and am seeking another... Yes, the electrics may be flaky (though The Prince of Darkness is an English invention) but when it comes to getting the balance between ride and handling spot on, I certainly don't see America delivering.

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

There are days when I reckon giving up on old cars would be a good idea. Today is one of them

:nodding:

 

Not been stranded on the motorway, but I spent the day trying to renew the Herald's driveshaft UJs and dreaming of white goods on finance. All I've got to show for the day is a one halfshaft with its UJ still firmly in place.

[seth]

Not been stranded on the motorway, but I spent the day trying to renew the Herald's driveshaft UJs and dreaming of white goods on finance. All I've got to show for the day is a one halfshaft with its UJ still firmly in place.

 

I've done the very same job today. What are you doing to try and get it out?

[HillmanImp]

That's a shitter with the Scenic. Thinking of getting rid of mine and getting a Jag as they are so fucking cheap it would be rude not to.

 

Considered having a punt on this the other day but need to tart up the Scenic and flog it first.

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1996-JAGUAR-XJ6-LWB-AUTO-BLUE-/180642144510

 

However I know naff all about them? Is it going to be a whole world of pain?

[CreepingJesus]

been told its about 300 quid for a garage to do it (yeah right) and I don't have a press to get the old kingpin out. any ideas, bearing in mind i'm skint? don't wanna scrap it, its a neat veg oil burner

 

They can be done DIY. But it won't be easy, and will involve some proper violence. Jack 'er up, axle stands under the chassis, whip the brakes etc., off. Extract the cotter pins (a selection of drills/stud extractors/taps come in handy), apply some heat, and big hammer-type persuasion to the kinpin. It might take two minutes, or two weeks of battering. There's a variant method using an axle stand, and a hydraulic jack to drop the weight of the motor onto the kingpin, with a drift between pin and stand.

Alternatively, remove the axle, and find an engineering shop/garage with a press, and pay them cash to do the press bit only. Otherwise, £150 a side isn't an uncommon quote - they do 'quote up', 'cos they know full well how much of a bastard they can be to do.

Some other reading material...Total LDV Sherpa, and LDV-Sherpa.co.uk (you might need to sign in to see that one)...which come with diagrams, lists of suppliers for parts and reconditioning and other odd tricks and notes.

Funnily enough, I never did them on my LDV: but I did recon a few Tranny front axles for Wisemans Dairies (after they'd been rallied...). In a warm dry workshop, with compressed air aplenty and a 20t press! So much easier!

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

Not been stranded on the motorway, but I spent the day trying to renew the Herald's driveshaft UJs and dreaming of white goods on finance. All I've got to show for the day is a one halfshaft with its UJ still firmly in place.

 

I've done the very same job today. What are you doing to try and get it out?

 

I've tried belting the flange with a rubber mallet, pushing the joint out with a G clamp and knocking it out with a socket. Just seems very reluctant to budge. Might have better luck tomorrow when I can do it outside.

 

Edit: yes I did, hammered out in the rain. What a bloody awful job.

[Angrydicky]

Lobster, what a lovely 4! MWC is a local reg, I've been trying to make out that fantastic dealer sticker in the back window but have failed! What does it say?

[trigger]

Crossways Garage which is in Halstead.

 

They are still going but are no longer a Renault dealer. http://www.xways.co.uk/

[Mr Lobster]

Well LOBSTA, I can't see any fire damage, pools of oil under it, twisted body panels or severed limbs so what's up with it?

I often share your sentiments, and quite often this also happens when sat on the hard shoulder posting pictures of a knackered car on Facebook.

 

 

Nothing too bad. Alternator belt wasn't sufficiently tight and after and hour of heavy rain and wipers the battery decided to call it a day, engine cut out and with no remaining battery power it wouldn't restart.

 

RAC were there within twenty minutes though and were excellent!

 

Seems ok now, getting a bit hot but that should be straightforward, either thermostat stuck or fan switch not playing. Will investigate later in the week.

[Mr Lobster]

Lobster, what a lovely 4! MWC is a local reg, I've been trying to make out that fantastic dealer sticker in the back window but have failed! What does it say?

 

'Tis indeed from Crossways Garage originally, dealer sticker and plates confirm. Its been local to East Anglia all its life (until now), and had spent fifteen years dry stored until unearthed last year. Its mega solid underneath, just needs a few minor cosmetic bits and it'll be a really clean car.

[trigger]

Just because I'm nosey Lobz but whereabouts in Essex was it from?.

[Mr Lobster]

Dunno

 

I got it from Somersham in Cambridgeshire, before that it was owned by a guy from Gt Yarmouth, and someone from Essex originally. So the seller told me anyway.

[scooters]

been told its about 300 quid for a garage to do it (yeah right) and I don't have a press to get the old kingpin out. any ideas, bearing in mind i'm skint? don't wanna scrap it, its a neat veg oil burner

 

They can be done DIY. But it won't be easy, and will involve some proper violence. Jack 'er up, axle stands under the chassis, whip the brakes etc., off. Extract the cotter pins (a selection of drills/stud extractors/taps come in handy), apply some heat, and big hammer-type persuasion to the kinpin. It might take two minutes, or two weeks of battering. There's a variant method using an axle stand, and a hydraulic jack to drop the weight of the motor onto the kingpin, with a drift between pin and stand.

Alternatively, remove the axle, and find an engineering shop/garage with a press, and pay them cash to do the press bit only. Otherwise, £150 a side isn't an uncommon quote - they do 'quote up', 'cos they know full well how much of a bastard they can be to do.

Some other reading material...Total LDV Sherpa, and LDV-Sherpa.co.uk (you might need to sign in to see that one)...which come with diagrams, lists of suppliers for parts and reconditioning and other odd tricks and notes.

Funnily enough, I never did them on my LDV: but I did recon a few Tranny front axles for Wisemans Dairies (after they'd been rallied...). In a warm dry workshop, with compressed air aplenty and a 20t press! So much easier!

 

 

really really inportant to grease the kingpins on a very regular basis with Sherpas - pig of a job but plenty of support on the 2 sites quoted...axel off may seem like a nightmare but is often the best way -

[dollywobbler]

Does look a beaut.

 

2CV's MOT is up soon and I've finally got around to booking it in for an MOT. Always a bit scary trying a new MOT station, but this local place sounded quite pleased at the prospect. Had to hastily order a pair of new tyres as the rears are getting a bit naughty. They should arrive tomorrow - £39 for Toyos, which really isn't too bad considering the correct Michelins are now getting on for £100 each. Hoping there are no horrors lurking for the test. Will need to get the grease gun out to give the kingpins the best chance of passing and I might even adjust up the rear brakes.

[Guest Leonard Hatred]

yo crew, I've recently started my Golf after being laid up for months with a dicky starter motor (bolts through an engine mount, a hoor to get back on) and glow plugs. It sounds sweet but the oil pressure light is flashing constantly.

 

I disconnected both oil pressure senders and it still flashes, though I guess it would anyway if they were disconnected?

The senders are a bit ££, is there any easy way to check the oil pressure without them? Would the death rattle happen quite quickly? I ran it for several minutes and got it up to temperature.

[Lukas]

Today, the starter-motor on my Camry died after the first drive this year:

 

 

The first problem after 23 years, I am definately not angry!

[Pillock]

LenHa..... when you say flashing, like a regular flash-flash-flash or more of a flickering?

If the former, I believe that yes the light flashes when you get low pressure instead of just remaining on. At least it does on older stuff (Mk2 and Mk3 Polos, Mk2 Golfs).

 

Where are the senders on the diesel block? Is it just a single wire with a spade on the end?

[Guest Leonard Hatred]

LenHa..... when you say flashing, like a regular flash-flash-flash or more of a flickering?

If the former, I believe that yes the light flashes when you get low pressure instead of just remaining on. At least it does on older stuff (Mk2 and Mk3 Polos, Mk2 Golfs).

 

Where are the senders on the diesel block? Is it just a single wire with a spade on the end?

 

It's a regular flash-flash-flash.

 

There's a sender on the side of the engine block and another on the oil filter housing, both single wire spade efforts.

[seth]

Not been stranded on the motorway, but I spent the day trying to renew the Herald's driveshaft UJs and dreaming of white goods on finance. All I've got to show for the day is a one halfshaft with its UJ still firmly in place.

 

I've done the very same job today. What are you doing to try and get it out?

 

I've tried belting the flange with a rubber mallet, pushing the joint out with a G clamp and knocking it out with a socket. Just seems very reluctant to budge. Might have better luck tomorrow when I can do it outside.

 

Edit: yes I did, hammered out in the rain. What a bloody awful job.

 

Was just going to properly respond to this but it seems you've had some success and edited your post. One side of the UJ I did was a bit of a pain and took a fair bit of thwacking on yesterday. I was hitting the top of one cup with a socket to push the opposite one out. Only remembered last night that the better way is to hit the side of the joint running across the direction of the one you want to push out. That way you're only trying to make one cup move, not two. SO in this photo I've modified off the internet, support the flange and hit down on the red X (and on the opposite side)

 

 

The bottom most cup will be pushed out most of the way and grab it in a vice to pull it right out. Then you can use a socket/punch on the exposed end of the joint to knock the other cup out the other way.

 

My method to bolt the driveshaft assy back on is to poke the shaft over the chassis towards the diff, slide the lower shock eye back on its mount (I don't take the shock off the top) and then reconnect the radius arm. Fit the flange-diff nuts and bolts then it is reasonably easy to lever the end of the spring up to get it lined up enough with the vert link to get the bolt in. Put a jack under the vertical link so that it takes the load of the car and is close to ride height position before tightening everything up.

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

That's helpful, thanks Seth. I got the new joints installed eventually this afternoon. A mixture of hitting the joint where you suggest and driving it home with a socket did it. Reassembly advice is great - much of my frustration came from trying to free unwilling suspension bolts and I'm hoping reassembly is easier. Waiting for new brake flexis before I can continue as I had to hack the old ones off with a knife.

 

I got the greaseable UJs... they give you the grease nipples but no blanking plug? I had go get a matching bolt from a motorcycle spares shop and cut it down.

[Pillock]

It's a regular flash-flash-flash.

 

There's a sender on the side of the engine block and another on the oil filter housing, both single wire spade efforts.

 

Won't one be temp and the other pressure? Try swapping them over.... or earthing them.

[Negative Creep]

Went for a random drive so I could pass the 130,000 mile mark on something that wasn't driving to work

[Guest Leonard Hatred]

It's a regular flash-flash-flash.

 

There's a sender on the side of the engine block and another on the oil filter housing, both single wire spade efforts.

 

Won't one be temp and the other pressure? Try swapping them over.... or earthing them.

 

The details are here, there are two senders.

 

Hmm, according to something I've read and lost the link to, the oil pressure sender circuit relies on a feed from the rev counter to work properly, the rev counter is GASSED at the moment.

[Richard]

Does the rev counter work off the alternator's W terminal on these?

[Negative Creep]

Wiper blades. You wouldn't think it would be difficult but because mine uses the bayonet style arms much faffing around was needed in the rain of Halfords to get the new ones on (including one sheered off screw). The old one was in fact just wedged on and came off in my hand, so god knows how it's lasted since December without flying on the motorway.

 

Did manage to get myself a trade card though, so £16.50 became £5.35

[Cavcraft]

Just spent about three hours de-chaving and sorting some things on the Corsa. Lexarse lights replaced with standard ones, alloys replaced with standard steels, front seats bolted in (I got the runners and pre-tensioners etc the other day) and spac-tastic chrome number plate surrounds removed.

 

Next up is removing and refitting the driver's seat (didn't tuck the pre-tensioner cable back in properly), launching the stupid fucking 'spoiler' type wiper blades, putting some bulbs in the dashboard (previous owner had removed them for his other car ) put my good spare battery on, then an engine oil flush and oil/filter change, drop the coolant and replace with fresh water/anti-freeze and try and get some standard wheel trims from a scrappy before T-cutting the rest of the car and polishing it. It looks about two million percent better already now all that stupid boy racer shit's been removed from it.

[outlaw118]

And flog all the chav-tastic crap on flea-bay......