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The Next Project: My Rover SD1 2600 Vanden Plas


Motown
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On 5/20/2021 at 3:28 PM, Bren said:

Yes. Take the hole back to sound metal. Make a cardboard template the shape of the hole. Transfer the template to a piece of steel. Trim repair section. Weld it into the hole slightly lower than surrounding area so you can cover it with a skim of filler.

Cheers much appreciated! 

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***Update***

So i recently serviced the car paying close attention to the engine and gearbox I had the engine timed up as well before doing the following.

1) **Windscreen washer fluid reservoir and pumps** It was very brittle and cracked. The contacts on the pumps were corroded to so i replaced those too
2) **Dash Binnacle Cover** I had a new one specially made
3) **Trip Computer and various interior trimmings** Ive fitted a new trip computer cassette holder and lid as these were broken
4) **Biscuit board and headliner** I've fitted a new biscuit board and grey headliner as these were missing. 
5) **Bonnet Grill/vent** Ive fitted a new bonnet grill/vent as the one supplied with the car was broken 
6) **Boot Gas Struts/Supports** Fitted a new pair for peace of mind SD1 boots are very heavy
7) **Repainted the rear badges** Purely so people can see its a Vanden Plas ;) 
8) **Dash Buttons**   Replaced three dash buttons again these were broken
9) **Original Stereo** Fitted an original Phillips 750 stereo
10) **New wipers**  Standard... I live in Yorkshire it rains alot
11) **New Battery** It was fitted with the wrong type
 12) **New Radiator** The original had more holes in it than Bonnie and Clyde
13) **New Rocker Cover and gasket** The original was looking a little tired

I then noticed a problem with the gearbox when i test drove the car.... Even for a 3 speed it seemed very sluggish and had lazy shifting which was soon traced to the gearbox modulator. Surprising how something so little can cause so many problems (the wife's words not mine) 🤔

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It would seem at some point in the past a modulator from a V8 had been fitted which was causing the issues. Once i fitted a modulator from a 2600 and the gearbox had warmed up it seemed to be working alot better but then the shifter/lever in the car seemed temperamental when transitioning from P to D. So i adjusted the selector rod/cable underneath and it seems to have improved.

It was around this time i turned my attention to the tyres they are a little worn but shouldn't be anything more than an advisory on the MOT. Almost everything on the car works apart from the rev counter and speedo which doesn't effect the MOT but i do have some new clocks in the post so no real dramas there.

I am not expecting the car to pass its first MOT (be great if it did) its 36 years old and has been off the road since 2018 but at the same time i really hope it doesn't fail on anything major. I am doing this on a budget and what's left really should go towards the respray so fingers crossed for the MOT 🤞

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***Further Update***

The car failed its MOT but thankfully not major problems... Nothing a few days fettling wont sort... I've got 10 days to get it sorted before the free retest expires. I drove the car 36 miles to the MOT station and it gave me no trouble whatsoever i got many smiles and thumbs ups along the way from other motorists and folk walking down the street.

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Although in typical Rover fashion as i pulled up outside the garage the handbrake light came on and wouldn't go off so it failed on that..... I suspect the lever that operates the brake shoes has become dislodged or needs adjustment.... The emissions were also DOUBLE what they should be so again it failed on that... At a guess that's down to the carbs which need balancing and finally the car needs some new tyres so more work to be done yet before i get my certificate.

 

The rest of the work is purely cosmetic and doesn't effect the MOT i have everything needed so i will tackle all that once it passes. The tester has had the garage 15 years and said it was the first time he had tested or seen an SD1 and overall was impressed said the car seemed solid in good condition and was simply suffering from wear and tear brakes tyres etc which was reassuring.

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On 5/14/2021 at 10:03 PM, eddyramrod said:

Good luck!  I had one back in 1998 which was lovely to drive, until it seized.  I had the radiator off because it was new (or possibly rebuilt) and I think it's still with my friend Ken in Southport.  Let me know if you need a rad ;) it won't be expensive.  But I'd better check with Ken that it's still there!  It's the only bit I have left now.

That's very kind of you much appreciated. I am in need of a new radiator so i will drop you a message very shortly.

Thanks again :)  

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Had some free time on my hands yesterday so managed to do the front brakes and some other bits on the SD1 

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Its only when i started the work i remembered how big but simple the old AP dual piston calipers are.

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Despite the brakes feeling like they were functioning correctly the old Lockheed pads were definitely past there best. I cant believe i drove 36 miles to the MOT garage on these things 🤣

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I replaced them with some beefy Apec pads 

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I then decided to change the rocker cover and gasket as i had a nice freshly painted rocker cover and the gasket was in need of replacement 

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Then i decided to change the throttle cable and replace what was missing from under the bonnet. Below is a picture of how the car looked when i purchased it. The main breather pipe to the carbs was missing as were filters pipes and various gaskets... It also had various bodges i need to sort out. Anyone who says SD1s are shit knows nothing as it was a testament to the car it was still running. I mean the radiator pipe was held in place with a nut and some gaffer tape for CHRIST SAKE!!!!

Before

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After 

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Next il tackle the rear brakes and the carbs as the car is running very rich and the emissions are through the roof  😐

 

 

 

 

 

 

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16 hours ago, Bren said:

Rocker cover badges are a fiver off ebay.

Thanks that will finish the cover off nicely.

Iam still trying to find the drivers door glass lift channel as the one in the car has rotted away.

Part number is BRC125 do you know were i can obtain one?

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36 minutes ago, Motown said:

Iam still trying to find the drivers door glass lift channel as the one in the car has rotted away.

Part number is BRC125 do you know were i can obtain one?

This seller on Spanish eBay appears to have cornered the market. €75 a pop! 😳🙄 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brc125-door-glass-lift-channel-front-rover-sd1-/283720397187

And that’s before you’ve paid the Taking Back Control fees and handling charges.

They should be fairly easy to fabricate if you’ve got enough remains to measure up. (I could take the door card off mine, but I’d prefer to leave well alone for the moment...)

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53 minutes ago, Motown said:

Thanks that will finish the cover off nicely.

Iam still trying to find the drivers door glass lift channel as the one in the car has rotted away.

Part number is BRC125 do you know were i can obtain one?

Ask on the facebook group

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1 hour ago, Skizzer said:

This seller on Spanish eBay appears to have cornered the market. €75 a pop! 😳🙄 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brc125-door-glass-lift-channel-front-rover-sd1-/283720397187

And that’s before you’ve paid the Taking Back Control fees and handling charges.

They should be fairly easy to fabricate if you’ve got enough remains to measure up. (I could take the door card off mine, but I’d prefer to leave well alone for the moment...)

Aye I've seen them... I love my SD1 but am not paying that especially to a Spaniard 🤣  I got a free weekend in Gibraltar compliments of my old unit many moons ago 3 hours the Spanish authority's held us at the cross over as a result i was twelve pints and three pubs behind. 😒

All jokes aside ive noticed alot of that recently ie Rover parts been sold abroad for extortion prices

 

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55 minutes ago, sierraman said:

I don’t know if you’ve seen the film ‘Rita, Sue and Bob too’ the lead character played by George Costigan has a metallic red 2.6 VDP. What a cool car that was. 

I have seen that film my mother had it on VHS and we weren't allowed to watch it as kids... Ofcourse the first thing we did when she went to the pub was stick it in the recorder. There's a few nice cars in that film i remember the SD1 and a Talbot Avenger

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello there ladies and gents. Apologies for the essay but i require some help and thought it was best to include all info i can think of to get to the bottom of my issues. 

If you've been following this topic you'll know that a few a few months ago i purchased a 1986 2600 VDP at the time of purchase it only had one major fault that i could identify which was the timing was incorrect (it would start and immediately cut out) the rest of the cars problems were mostly cosmetic which was incredibly lucky as its an SD1 and its been off the road since 2018.

The engine had been timed incorrectly by a previous owner and then a mechanic who attempted to time it from one instead of six only complicated things further. However a chap from the SD1 club popped up from daaaarn south to sort that out for me and soon rectified the issue. After the timing issue was sorted the car seemed to be running pretty well all be it a bit rich and idling high however this wasn't the fault of the chap who sorted the timing as he didn't touch the carbs and simply correctly timed the engine in order to get it running.

I purchased new plugs leads a new dizzy coil fuel and oil... I then serviced the car and took the car for an MOT its first since 2018... The car easily managed the 36 mile round trip with no problems but failed its MOT.... Ive since fixed the issues on the fail certificate which included tyres. lights, a perished ball joint bush, emissions. a battery clamp and a tiny bit of welding in the wheel arch. After id completed the work i slightly adjusted the fuel mixture screws on the carbs in the hope of getting the emissions down ready for the retest and instantly noticed its not as rich as it used to be RESULT i thought.... I also turned the idle screws completely to the left (anti clockwise) and worked my way back until i achieved what i thought to be a decent idle when in P... I have to play this by ear as my tacho currently doesn't work... Again once i did this the car gave me no problems... The car was idling fine.. RESULT i thought...

Today i decided to take the car for its retest i pushed it out of its storage bay and the car started on the first crank of the key but as soon as i engaged D it cut out..... I tried again got some revs behind it and off i went up and down the hills of Saddleworth moor heading towards Sheffield from Manchester were the car was stored.... Everything seemed perfectly fine until i pulled over after about 10 miles and no sooner did i come to a halt the car cut out and wouldn't start... It cranked but wouldn't fire..... I only cranked it three times but with each turn of the key it seemed weaker the battery seemed to be very weak... Luckily my wife was following in my trusty 827 fastback so i jump started the car with leads and it instantly started again... Suspecting the battery i put a brand new battery on the car and set off again. I got about another 10 miles and as i slowed for a junction the car cut out again..... Again i tried to jump start it and it fired up but the belt was squealing this time and within seconds of removing the leads off the battery it cut out. Oh and during my travels i appear to have lost a bonnet badge too 

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I decided to call for recovery and have the car taken home when i got back it was pushed onto my drive and before i went into the house to sulk and cry like a frustrated child i decided to try and start the car... Strangely it started first time on the key but again with belt squeal..... I sat in the car and transition from P to D and although it didnt cut out it seemed to be struggling under load and shaking when in D.... I put it back into P when i noticed this but almost immediately the car seemed perfectly happy when in P

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Now i think i have two different problems here... Either my fan belt is slack and/or my alternator is knackered preventing the battery charging.... And obviously some sort of running issue when at low revs.... I am fairly confident i can sort the alt/belt issue myself but the running issue is baffling me and causing me a great deal of anxiety and stress.

I've owned various Rovers over the years which i have rescued and restored but never an SD1 until now. I always dreamt of owning an SD1 and i feel now the moments finally arrived its left me with abit of a foul taste in my mouth... I am feeling very frustrated and stupid because despite its simplistic mechanical nature i actually feel out of my depth as its a very different machine to what i am used too with regards to timing and carbs etc.

Can anyone help me i would very much like to get the car back on the road so i can start enjoying it. The last two owners gave up on the car and sold it on i really don't want to do that.... This car has just about broken me after today iam literally a broken man.... Not even the thought of Diane Youdale aka Jet from Gladiators could cheer me up right now so i am definitely on a downer!

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Cash, beer or tea offered in exchange for help with the running issue car is located near Doncaster. Many thanks!

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The alternator sounds like the prime suspect, though I'd hazard a failed/failing coil as well.

My 3500 exhibited similar hot/warm running issues after about 10-20 minutes  of driving - as in cutting out at low speed, approaching or sitting at traffic lights and then refusing to start till it  had had a rest for 5 to 15 minutes  and the engine bay temperature cooled down.   Same for the alternator, the extra load of putting it in drive could be (along I suspect expired or intermittently failing ignition electrical) is enough to overload  it if it's barely outputting enough to  charge the battery.  

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As well as a charging problem you obviously have a problem with the carbs.

They may simply need correct adjustment ( especially if somebody has been messing - do they have electronic mixture control?) or they may be worn.

You will need to take it to an old sweat who knows about SU carbs.

It's a damning indictment of the motor trade that a mechanic could not set the timing correctly.

Best bet? Buy a factory manual and a gas tester and have a go yourself.

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+1 (actually plus a lot more than one) on failing coil.  If it were me I'd tighten the alternator belt, put a known good coil on (hopefully you can borrow* one from another car) and take it for another drive.  The fact you say it drove 'perfectly fine' for ten miles suggests to me that whilst carb adjustment may not be correct it is unlikely to be the prime cause of your problems.  And doing the above doesn't cost anything, which is always my preferred starting point for dealing with any issue!

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So after some tinkering in the sunshine today i found this...

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The earth from the wing to the battery is holding on by a thread. Maybe this is what's causing my power issues however i only found this after i messed with carb timing and fuel mixture again so when i next get a free day il replace the earth and set up the carbs.

Hopefully this will have eradicated the problem! 

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1 hour ago, Bren said:

And check your engine earths - mine failed and destroyed the rear brake hose that had a braided outer sheath.

10 points to you Sir it appears to be the earth from the body to the battery! 

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Mine would click when the key was turned - I assumed the starter had given up. Off it went to be serviced. Refitted and it still would'nt start - I then noticed the throttle return cable turning a fetching shade if orange. Battery quickly disconnected. I could'nt rig up a slave lead so checked the main earth with my meter - it showed infinity. I fitted a new lead and cleaned the other earths. It started but the brake pedal went to the floor - I then realised one of the braided flexi hoses had committed hari kari.

When I overhauled the injectors I cleaned all the plugs on the engine, fuel system and lights - despite being in a garage for 10 years there was some crustiness - at best this can cause unreliablity, at worst fire.

I also cleaned the rotor arm, dizzy cap, ht leads and coil - the 12v terminals that supply the ignition module from the coil to the dizzy were crusty. When I fired it up it was a completely different car - it had a real growl it did'nt have before. I think Clarkson said  the rover v8 sounded like " god gargling hammers"  - mine certainly does with the rimmers drainpipe fitted.

I also got rid of the overbraid for the loom - it was impregnated with oil, grease and iron filings. I just used slit tube.

Now it needs the calipers overhauling - bigg reg quoted a very reasonable £165 so when my back improves I will get them off the car.

Do not lose heart - SD1's are needy buggers and I doff my cap to anybody who still dailies one. If money is an issues a can of electrical cleaner and some brushes are inexpensive - you can do this while you get the cash together. I would also upgrade the fuel hose to the ethanol resistant stuff.

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***Update***

Today I cleaned up the connectors under the expansion bottle and fitted a brand new earth cable the car started first time and was stronger than ever on the key. I sorted the idle and fuel mixture again and let the car run for abit then switched off the ignition and tried to start it again but no joy.... It cranked but would fire/turn over.....

I took my battery off my 827 put that on and it started first time... I think the battery is being drained by the car so perhaps the alternator is knackered. My next port of call is to change the alternator and belt ive got a new belt but i am currently trying to find a new alternator.

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I can't be of any practical help - I'm friggin' miles away and I've never played with a Rover....BUT what you've experienced is just a blip in your enthusiasm, we all get them.

Cars, especially projects that have been improved* by previous owner are needy, ungrateful BASTARDS and therefore shouldn't be allowed to piss us off as much as they do. (Says the man with a Capri in his garage that he hasn't touched for 3 years....)

The 800s that you've sorted are more complex than this, I'm guessing from the issues you're having, it sounds like the alternator and/or associated wiring. On the 800 you'd be poking about with ECUs and shit, and they're a fucking mystery to me. It's probably* the car going into shock after years of little/no use and stuff degrades over time and no use.  As for the carbs.... I've never understood SUs but fiddling with the mixture and a decent Italian Tune Up may be all it needs.

Don't stress.

It'll be ok, you're just chasing niggles now.

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19 hours ago, Motown said:

***Update***

Today I cleaned up the connectors under the expansion bottle and fitted a brand new earth cable the car started first time and was stronger than ever on the key. I sorted the idle and fuel mixture again and let the car run for abit then switched off the ignition and tried to start it again but no joy.... It cranked but would fire/turn over.....

I took my battery off my 827 put that on and it started first time... I think the battery is being drained by the car so perhaps the alternator is knackered. My next port of call is to change the alternator and belt ive got a new belt but i am currently trying to find a new alternator.

Surely it would be cheaper and faster to test system charge with a multimeter rather than a new alternator? 

I would stop playing with the carburettor whilst there are other issues that affect running.  

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I have a chinkkie 'Voltmeter + USB' ciggy socket plugin.... NOT an Ammeter, we know!

Shows me 14.2V all day long...

Unfortunately [not] I have no direct experience of one being helpful where an Alt is dying/LoVo :(

keep up your spirits, m8

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***Further update***

The running issue ive been experiencing could be a whole variety of things but once i ruled out the carbs and the battery my experience of Rovers was telling me the issue wasn't as complex as id originally thought.

I begin by rechecking all the earths and replacing any that didn't pass muster I also checked all the plastic connectors in the engine bay and replaced any that seemed brittle. Now i appreciated this wasn't completely necessary but it was done as a matter of precaution and will benefit the car in the long run as i really dont want to be chasing electrical gremlins for weeks on end as i did with the 820 restoration. 

When this was done I then tested the battery and the alternator the battery had a good reading as i expected because it was a new battery. The alternator however showed a reading of 12.45 with the engine running which is low and suggests zero output. 

So i intend to purchase a new alternator and get the old one refurbed the car cant be that far away from a fresh certificate and being returned to the road now.

 

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