Car joins fleet. All usual AS rules broken - Cookie's adventures in shiteing

[Fat_Pirate]

I'd be giving those buttons a good dose of aerosol contact cleaner, worth a shot.

[Cookiesouwest]

47 minutes ago, Fat_Pirate said:

I'd be giving those buttons a good dose of aerosol contact cleaner, worth a shot.

I will, but suspect the contact pins on the back of the buttons are snapped.

[SiC]

What you need is a Focus MK2 1.6 as a backup car when this inevitably embarrasses at some point! 😂

[Gaffer]

If it’s cranking over and won’t start when it’s cold outside, pour some warm water over the coolant temp sensor and try again - should get you out of the shite. Glow plugs will be knackered but the buggers always snap.

[Cookiesouwest]

Another day, another Disco fault.

I can confirm now that the front suspension drops, if the car is left for a couple of days.

Front nearside carpet is soaking. When left overnight pointing up hill, the rear nearside gets wet and when opening back door, water pours out.

Likely to be a sunroof drain, so I have taken the easy option for now and resorted to duck tape.

But those are old faults.

The new fault is when turning hard right, the front left wheel shudders and the suspension warning light flashes.

Its off to the garage next Weds for a once over. If the mechanic reckons its generally speaking a good car, it will get some love. If he says its a bad un, it gets kicked off fleet.

[Crackers]

On 26/10/2022 at 13:11, horriblemercedes said:

When I had one of these (well, mine was a 4), I'm sure it released the parking brake if you wanted to go. You didn't have to turn it off yourself

You can do this, but don't.

As the car starts to roll it wears the handbrake shoes until they fully retract, and puts extra strain on the already fragile mechanism. They are fucking expensive to put right when the system lets go, so it's better to turn the handbrake off with the footbrake holding the car and then move off a second later. 

Also, the handbrake release/apply should not make a "screeeeeeeeeeek" noise, it should just go "screeek" instead - if the sound goes on for too long then it's out of adjustment which also wears out the mechanism, and should be adjusted to make the same noise but for less time.

[Cookiesouwest]

Mechanic report is in. 

After an extensive test drive and time on the ramp.

Inner passenger tie rod needs replacement.

Possible engine mount (needs more investigation but not urgent).

Slight brake judder at 70mph.

No signs of air leaks. Possible easy fix. He will send me a video of what to do.

So besides the internal pond and the obvious LR chance of it totally shitting itself, it seems a good one.

Therefore some love will be administered.

Booked into garage for next week, for the tie rod

48 quid well spent.

A 50% increase in his hourly rate, but still cheap.

 

[Cookiesouwest]

Balls. Kinda spoke too soon.

Mrs just phoned. Commuting home from work.

Error message, of suspension fault and 30mph max speed.

One life. Live it in fear of a new fault every day.

It may be something as easy to remedy as a new battery.

Although that does not make the suspension sink.

Possibly more than one fault exists.

So I'm buying a LR code reader. 

[Back_For_More]

Sounds like a pinhole in the air suspension...... My RR had the same - best to get them swapped if you can. Not a difficult job and worth avoiding the teeth shattering drive if it drops while you're out and about. 

All the fun of the Olli brigade 

[Gaffer]

Almost impossible to diagnose without a decent LR specific code reader. I’d almost be tempted to put money on it being corroded wiring in the N/S front wheelarch. I guess you are a looong way from Doncaster? 

[Gaffer]

Also front suspension dropping is probably the front valve block needs stripping and rebuilding with new seals - IF it always pumps straight back up and IF the air reservoir holds air so the pump doesn’t run for too long I’d not worry too much about it. It’s when the whole system inc reservoir loses air overnight - that’s when you start burning pumps out as it has to run flat out to build pressure from zero all the time.

[Cookiesouwest]

26 minutes ago, Gaffer said:

Also front suspension dropping is probably the front valve block needs stripping and rebuilding with new seals - IF it always pumps straight back up and IF the air reservoir holds air so the pump doesn’t run for too long I’d not worry too much about it. It’s when the whole system inc reservoir loses air overnight - that’s when you start burning pumps out as it has to run flat out to build pressure from zero all the time.

I suspect valve block too. After some you tube sleuthing.

Sadly a long way from Doncaster.

I'm going to invest in a icarsoft LR v3.

I know its not a IID, but reviews seem pretty good. Will do everything I will ever need.

Just took it out for a spin. No faults lol

[Gaffer]

Haven’t had much to do with the icarsoft, people were using an Autel dongle with decent success at some point although I’m not sure if it’s still available? A search on Disco3.com might give more info.

If you ever end up this way I’ll have the workshop open and the kettle on!

Land Rovers - great but shit but great 😄

[Cookiesouwest]

Update

Disco - Garage gave it the once over. Besides a worn bush and disc wobble when braking hard at 70mph, mechanic gave it a clean bill of health. Its going back next week for the bush to be sorted.

Mechanic believes sinking front suspension is valve lock, as suspected.

Honda CRV - failed MOT as main beam not working. Its not the bulb, its an electrical issue. Garage can't fix. Trying to find an auto electrician who can investigate before the free retest window closes.

Mondeo - Still being mundane reliable transport. Still need to find someone to do the gearbox fluid change.

[andyberg]

51 minutes ago, Cookiesouwest said:

 

Mondeo - Still being mundane reliable transport. Still need to find someone to do the gearbox fluid change.

My brother took his golf to a place in Westbury, I can find out who?

[Cookiesouwest]

2 hours ago, andyberg said:

My brother took his golf to a place in Westbury, I can find out who?

That would be good. Ta

[SiC]

I assume the fuses are all good? 

Does flash-to-pass work? Also try flicking it between main beam & flash-to-pass rapidly, this will clean the contacts. 

Check the main beam relay clicks when going to main beam and/or flashing. No idea where it lives though.

Can't imagine it's much as the first gen CRVs are simple cars electrically.

@twosmoke300 may have a few ideas being he is our Honda Professional on here. 

[SiC]

Also don't forget to double check the obvious and that the bulb filaments haven't blown. I had a Saab that blew both high beam bulbs within a couple of miles of each other going! If they're original they could be wearing at the same rate.

[twosmoke300]

Bulbs first , then double check the bulb connections . 
Then I’d be looking at the relay .

 

[Cookiesouwest]

4 hours ago, twosmoke300 said:

Bulbs first , then double check the bulb connections . 
Then I’d be looking at the relay .

 

Definitely not the bulb.

Will try and find the relays

[busmansholiday]

3 minutes ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Definitely not the bulb.

I've had bulbs that look perfect (even brand new ones) but put across a battery didn't work. 

[SiC]

6 minutes ago, busmansholiday said:

I've had bulbs that look perfect (even brand new ones) but put across a battery didn't work. 

I've had that too. Wire broke from the backside of the glass envelope to the terminal. 

[Cookiesouwest]

Bulb has been replaced. Twice. Definitely not the bulb.

 

[Cookiesouwest]

On 11/18/2022 at 4:37 PM, twosmoke300 said:

Bulbs first , then double check the bulb connections . 
Then I’d be looking at the relay .

 

Quick query.

Main beam on drivers side does not work when main headlights are on. This is why it failed mot.

But when I'm on side lights, main beam works fine (both sides).

Can't be earth. Would relay do this?

Apologies but I'm a numpty when it comes to electrics.

[loserone]

I'm calling stalk.

[Mr Pastry]

22 minutes ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Quick query.

Main beam on drivers side does not work when main headlights are on. This is why it failed mot.

But when I'm on side lights, main beam works fine (both sides).

Can't be earth. Would relay do this?

Apologies but I'm a numpty when it comes to electrics.

Without knowing the actual circuits, this is suggesting that the headlamp flash is fed separately from the main/dip relay - check the fuses first.

[Cookiesouwest]

4 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

Without knowing the actual circuits, this is suggesting that the headlamp flash is fed separately from the main/dip relay - check the fuses first.

Would each side be fused separately? Thats real Honda overkill if they are

[Cookiesouwest]

9 minutes ago, loserone said:

I'm calling stalk.

I hope not. Weird it only affects one side.

[Mr Pastry]

Just now, Cookiesouwest said:

Would each side be fused separately? Thats real Honda overkill if they are

Quite possibly, I don't know but check anyway.  Is there a diagram available?

[sutty2006]

Sounds like a wiring issue somewhere. Like it’s either stealing an earth or stealing a positive when the dipped beam is on. 🤔