Jump to content

Triumph - That was a year that was..


Recommended Posts

On 11/15/2021 at 8:23 PM, Bfg said:

I think for tomorrow.. I might not crawl under the car !   . . . yippee  :P

  .. Well that only sort of happened insomuch as I didn't work on the car at all on Tuesday, but on the other hand.. on Wednesday, the following day I did work on the car I found myself underneath again..



^ Seats & tunnel out, to address the leak from the recently rebuilt gearbox.  I've been here before when I first collected the car, because the overdrive stopped working. That was just a matter of the replacement overdrive solenoid's wire having a 3+mm (?) bullet being loose in the Lucas 4mm bullet connector.  That was odd because M&T had soldered new bullet connectors where some were loose to the headlamps.  The gearbox and overdrive refitting was done by a sub-contract mechanic (Keith) who clearly cared little for his customer's business reputation.

Anyway while finding that fault, I also noted the gearshift spring was fitted upside down in the cup ..which is why I was having difficulty changing gear, and the propshaft UJ bolts were loose.  Two of the four bolts I could tun in my fingers, the two others each took up by about 1/4 of a turn.  The oil leak, all down either side of the gearbox, was clearly coming from around the top cover.    


^ I'd also noted that this bolt was stripped out (wouldn't tighten) and as you can see it is different to the one nearer the front. It did have a spring washer under it but I removed that to try and get a pinch on the next thread down.  I couldn't do much else about it at the time, so corrected the solenoid wire and tightened the prop-shaft, with the intent to coming back to this before I drove the car much further.  Accordingly that's why I pulled out the interior (again) yesterday. 



^ as removed from the rear of the top cover


^ the two forward holes are stripped out for the most part, the bolts fitted were wrong / of fine thread. 

The spotlessly clean interior of the gearbox case reflects it having been just rebuild, a couple of month and some 200 miles ago,  ..no ?


^ aside from the stripped out thread to the right of the case, which similarly had a wrong (fine thread) bolt in it, the rear two  threaded holes are likewise mostly stripped out.    I understand that these bolts should be about 1/8" shorter than the front ones, and so they too were wrong (albeit of they are correct thread). One is an all-threaded bolt, which I suspect should have a plain shank like the other.

That's five of the eight threads which hold / seal this cover down are mostly stripped out, and similarly five of the eight bolts were incorrect.  Unfortunately, each of the bolt holes are through  the turned-inwards rim of the gearbox casing, so any broken threads or bits of aluminium drop straight into the gearbox.  And that gearbox oil is shared with the overdrive. 

The overdrive is a newly refurbished one ..thankfully that was not rebuilt by Klassic Transmissions, Wolverhampton, who did the gearbox.  

Can these thread repairs be done in situ. ?  Well if it were the one then I'd pack underneath the hole and take the risk, I might even do that for the front two as well.  but the rear two not ... 


^ I cannot even get my head around to see this ..the camera is somewhat smaller and more nimble !  But as you can see the flange / overhang at the back is very close to the gear, and I cannot even get a little finger in let alone to successfully build a dam to collect any dropping swarf.   If they were blind holes rather than open at the bottom then things might have been different, but the rebuild cost of an overdrive unit is at risk here, and I dare not take it. 


^ The underside of the top cover, as it was lifted off, reflecting both the amount of oil leaking passed it and a lump of displaced aluminium ..from where a screwdriver or some other butchery had been hammered in to prise the cover off.  It doesn't take much noddle to realise that this 1mm of ridge of crude would prevent that top cover sealing again on a thin paper gasket.

As an incentive to leak even more, the gearbox was over-filled by 1/2".  


^ Bottom line is that the gearbox has to come out for those threads to be repaired ..without risking of dropping swarf bits of metal inside.

This sort of conning the customer  is a sad reflection on our society.

NB., This is not M&T's fault, they did not rebuild the gearbox, they just offered, while the engine was out to drop the gearbox off for me. And that was done because the lay-shaft bearings were noisy.  The car and there the gearbox was pleasantly oil-leak free beforehand. 




Link to comment
Share on other sites


...it's all been done before, but briefly.. this is my taking the gearbox out on my own, despite my dubious back ..which tends not to bear well with twisting and lifting, particularly at the same time as stretching. . . 


^ From what I learnt in removing / refitting the gearbox to replace the clutch..  I cut a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood to aide doing this job on my own.   It's 22" x 14" wide, but for the last 10" which taper down (equally on either side) to 11" wide. This clears the chassis rail on the LHS and the exhaust pipe running down the RHS on my car.  Exhaust clamps are off the 2:1 downpipe connection and at that at the gearbox was loosened, so the engine might be tilted slightly up at the back.  The long 5-1/2" wide block of timber supported by the trolley jack, lifts under the very back end of the sump.  The cut piece of 3/4" ply sits on top of this, immediately behind the sump, and is the right thickness for the bellhousing to almost rest on. 

I'll check when I put the gearbox back in place whether the thickness is exactly right to align the gearbox shaft back into the clutch. 

The back of the engine, together with the gearbox, is lifted and tilts. Only a small lift is required, in fact just enough to align the top of the bellhousing to just below the rounded cutout of the body shell, under the battery tray. I'm sure when we remove the gearbox before, my helping mechanic was a little too enthusiastic in jacking it up (too much) and the bell-housing's flange then wouldn't come backwards through the bulkhead's cutout. 

Thereafter plywood makes it very easy to simply slide the gearbox back and inch or two off of the clutch spline. Only then, the back end of the gearbox can be lifted onto blocks inside the car . . .


^ The blocks inside the car are a bridge over the prop-shaft UJ., which wont drop lower without removal of the exhaust pipe. And I didn't want to disturb that any more.  The gearbox rubber mounting has been removed but the steel brace across the chassis is otherwise untouched (still bolted tightly to its chassis brackets).  Sliding the gearbox back on the piece of plywood is safe n' secure and low enough to clear the heater and dashboard. The heater flap has an Allen key lightly pinched in place of the control cable, to keep that flap closed.


^ Under the car, I added a support tower, just in case ..as a safeguard. But as the long timber plank was sandwiched between the sump and the jack, the top of this tower and that plank didn't actually touch, even as the gearbox was pulled back. Btw., those blocks are mostly screwed together, so is more stable and robust than might first appear from this photo. 


^ next was another block which I lifted the clutch lever onto.  I'm very wary of pulling my back again ..and then being out of action for a month, so this maneuver was more a matter of rolling the gearbox over to the right hand side onto a block, and then sliding the bellhousing end across to the left, together with the lever arm over the lip of the floor. 


^ slid across on timber blocks.


^ sill / door seal rubber lifted off and another bridge placed to lift the back end of the gearbox onto. 

By then the gearbox was out of the car sufficiently to avoid stretching while lifting and so dragging the gearbox out and onto the backless-office-chair (covered in thick plastic) was easy. 


^ task done, with body and each finger intact...  Tbh it was far less drama lifting it out on my own, than with an enthusiastic professional helper.  Admittedly it took me 100 minutes, including making a cup of coffee, removing the top half of bellhousing bolts (the bottom ones I did yesterday evening), removing the starter motor, removing the gearbox mount, measuring and cutting the 3/4" plywood, positioning the trolley jack and in general being very careful. 

Having bought a UNC thread repair kit, specifically for this task (albeit I only expected to be doing one or perhaps two), tomorrow I hope to repair the five.  All being well, I'll collect the full set of (correct) top cover bolts next week.  That's not a problem as I hope to have the gearbox refitted over this weekend, and the cover can be loosely refitted until then.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

I must say you appear remarkably calm about all of this grief Pete, if this had happened to me I reckon my stress levels would be off the scale.  Have you barked at the chap who reassembled the box yet? An error as elementary as using the wrong thread bolts would have me wondering whether any of the internals are equally substandard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, mk2_craig said:

I must say you appear remarkably calm about all of this grief Pete, if this had happened to me I reckon my stress levels would be off the scale.  Have you barked at the chap who reassembled the box yet? An error as elementary as using the wrong thread bolts would have me wondering whether any of the internals are equally substandard.

My friend Steve is trying to steer me towards Stoicism ..and although I see some irony in going back to a philosophical-ideal from 300 years BC ..to deal with the stresses, disappointments and frustrations of the 21st century - I fear his discourses fade as an echo within a sound booth.  For my part I'm just tired  ..of being cheated by those who say they'll to do one thing and then behind closed doors cut corners ..to get a slither more profit.  

My experiences in life leave me thinking most people are quite content with being selfish, thoughtless, and unkind.  Btw., I do include my family and friends, and indeed myself in this disgust.  Indeed I am convinced that most of the world's people do not give the matter a second thought ..they have all been brought up to believe that it somehow makes them (us !) more successful to get an upper hand, to steal a bargain, to cheat the system, to get away with breaking the law, to spout racial, political and other subversive opinions, &/or to steal away from work or to take a few things home with them.  And even those who care deeply for their immediate family will, with barely a second thought, tread on others who might take otherwise get a single step further along the same path. 

For my part, my own family turned out to be shits ..so how might I expect myself or anyone else to be any better ? 

So my philosophy is somewhat resigned to being shat on.  Initial I am upset (..after all who likes to be cheated and out of pocket) and that soon turns to back to my continued disappointment in mankind.   Is it worth my taking this gearbox back to those who supposedly rebuilt it.?  No because I no longer trust the individuals concerned.  Is it my worth pursuing getting my money back ?  No because I've tried the legal system (several times) and it was more stressful than the issue itself ..and on no occasion has the system seen fairness override over some technical point / legal procedure. 

I do believe in 'naming & shaming' though, if only so that other half-decent folk don't fall into the same trap. 

But I equally believe in 'naming to praise', those who have tried hard to help and to be kind, those who have provided a honest and fairly priced service.

I don't have the chap's telephone number to bark at him.. He is actually a lovely gentleman to talk with and it seems wrong to shout angrily at an old man..  Even if they have very much disappointed you, they have done more to disgrace themselves. 

I do not understand their using the wrong bolts in the top cover, not least as I see from photographs of the gearbox from when I did the clutch and it shows the same bolt head on each.

Is what the gearbox re-builder did internally any better ?   I don't know.  But I do know that if I took the gearbox to someone else then it would cost me £-hundreds more than I've already spent.  And they may or not find anything much. Most certainly another engineer would find something to say they "wouldn't have done that".  

But as the gearbox is working (but for leaking oil) and is now reasonably quiet - then I'll leave it.  

I'll repair the treads as conscientiously as I can and then flush it out.  Hopefully I can put the gearbox back in with breaking a finger or loosing another nail.  And then we'll see if there is a leak for anywhere else ! ?




Link to comment
Share on other sites

This afternoon my focus was on the threat-repair of five of the eight holes, for the bolts which secure (and seal) the gearbox's top cover.  Again my apologies to those who have seen these thread repairs / inserts a dozen or more times before. . .

P1400238s.JPG.1ceca308ee85c14ece8accecc39235f9.JPG     P1400252s.thumb.JPG.b5ed56e65ef43cd4eaa64473717c037f.JPG

^ after being stood on end and slightly inverted overnight ..to drain the last of the oil out (of gearbox and overdrive), I cleaned / degreased the case and my stainless work tray this morning, covered over the exposed gears and prepared for drilling. 


^ I'd bought this kit of UNC thread inserts off an e-bay seller a couple of weeks ago specifically for this task, and having used the same sort (but Whitworth threads) on my Sunbeam motorcycle engines - I had a fair idea how to do it. As you can seen the kit comes with the correct size of drill, and tap, a good number of thread inserts (coils of the replacement thread) and the tools to insert them. 

The difficult part of the task is drilling and then tapping squarely into the old hole.  A stripped out thread is very nearly the right size already but a sharp drill-bit will tend to cut at an angle if you're not really very careful. I use a spirit level to sight against . . . 

P1400254s.JPG.e9dd8eb5be06ec79cce6246401089e5a.JPG    P1400253s.JPG.37dd9463ea843ce1f086ff9e3bb3b7a5.JPG

^ the gearbox was set, with spacers under the bellhousing flange, so that its top face (where the holes are) was sitting vertical. Alongside the gearbox, and set at a convenient height, a spirit-level was leveled.  Then, as can be seen in the second of these photos, the drill can be sighted to be level with it.   Yeah Ok., so while taking the photo I was having difficulty holding the drill perfectly horizontal ..but I'm sure you get the idea.  During the drilling - my head was alternating, like a nodding-dog in a car's back window, from sighting at this angle to looking down on the drill ..to ensure that it wasn't going in at an sideways angle.  The blue masking tape is simply a depth gauge, so that I knew when to stop !

The modus operandi is likewise used when tapping the oversized thread ..into which the insert will be fitted. . .

P1400259s.JPG.e63235cf5a0bdd7f80b0996656e7670f.JPG    P1400256s.JPG.cabfc007ced85ed02a14dbaebe9b1290.JPG

^ tapping the oversized hole is more difficult than drilling it, and although the first part of that is its chamfered end - I take as much care with this stage as when the tap bites and starts to cut (seemingly very crudely with a coarse thread into cast aluminium). Great care is needed at this stage., as the tap bites a chunk of aluminium out of one side and then at 90-degrees ..which tries to throw your direction off true.   But if I can do ..then so can you :)

During this tapping, I stop to brush-clean the tap, and to clean out the hole, two or three times. This is because the chunks of metal being cut out need to be cleared out rather than their snagging and binding.  My marker tape might tend to prevent some bits from clearing, but I still prefer to have it there as a depth gauge.  Personally, I don't use cutting paste or lubricant either while drilling nor when tapping, because I want that hole and the freshly cut thread to be bare-metal clean for its insert. 

P1400264s.JPG.1400aad7392de87dfc0699b9f96b76a2.JPG    P1400266s.JPG.0413a254135acd261d8525c1aa25bd15.JPG

^ The thread-insert is a coil of stainless steel, although not of marine grade because it's slightly magnetic. The outside of the coil winds into the freshly cut oversized thread, and its inside is the right size and thread for the bolt.  In this case 5/16" UNC.

The forks, on the end of the tool provided, engage with a wire across the coils inside end, and is used like a screwdriver to fit the insert into the threaded hole. It very simple to do so.   I liberally apply Loctite 2400 both onto the insert and into the threaded hole, before winding it in to about a mm below the surface.  

I then screw a clean bolt in ..to first ensure that the insert has gone in correctly, and also to collect / clean out the excess of Loctite.  I do this two or three times, inbetween times removing and wiping the bolt's thread clean with tissue paper.

The wire inside, used to screw the insert in, has to be broken off and removed.  There's a straight rod within the kit to do this with, which when inserted into the hole is tapped on end with a wooden block. . .

P1400268s.JPG.0f1366137543fe027c0f8afe6ca1600f.JPG    P1400269s.JPG.bd29457a0a9cdfbbd497ab0c1688f724.JPG 

It's then very important to retrieve that little piece of wire ..as you wouldn't want it floating around inside with the mechanical gnashing of teeth or otherwise restricting an oil gallery. A small screwdriver, temporarily magnetized can help retrieve those which are broken off in a blind hole.

Job done . . .

..except I had two others to do . . .

P1400275s.JPG.b8ff3102ca0bcc342b7580c4b268bbea.JPG    P1400276s.JPG.92c2b1b973a2b4b65a9fbdfaa4b66f34.JPG etc., etc.

^ here I clamped the spirit level to the side of the case so that it was again at a suitable height for sighting the drill, and tapping, level.   With those done and all the bits carefully swept up and disposed of, and the newly re-threaded holes picked clean - all that remained was to ensure any bits ..that might have got passed or around the barriers were blasted out . . . 


^ copious amounts of carb cleaner jetted into and around the gears and all around the inside of the case, which itself was tilted so that any bits would wash out of the open top. 


^ ,,and left it was to drip dry.  I had very carefully cleaned the tray out before doing this, and subsequently.. I found one small piece of aluminium from the thread cutting in the tray. whether that came from inside the case or from its outside, I will never know.  Still better be safe, in the knowledge that reasonable precautions had been taken, than miserable.

Tomorrow I'll address a few other issues before trying to refit it back into the car.

Bidding you a good evening,



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good morning all,  with the gearbox top-cover's threads now all being good, and my friend Rich having a complete set of the correct bolts which I'll collect sometime this week, all I needed was a gasket.  Not many pence perhaps but for the inconvenience of ordering just one item and then also its postage cost.. I made one. 

To many who read this, a home-made gasket is a huge No, No.!   Some may argue that its thickness is critical, and that it's a false economy and so forth. And very often I would agree that those arguments.  Conversely, many an Engineer has made gaskets for engines and mechanics that are either unique or else so rare that such things as gaskets are simply not available.  Many others will think "why not if you can do it successfully ",  particularly as in this situation - it's not an engine nor gearbox out again job, if the oil sealing is less than 100% successful.

The failings I've seen in home made gaskets (..and I have seen quite a few over the years) is that the card used is inappropriate &/or the cutting out and holes are awful.   Regarding the former, there is of course sheet-gasket-paper commercially available.  Alternatively, selection of a suitable piece of card comes down to it not having been compressed too much when it was made or printed ..nor is it creased or soiled from use.  In my estimation, more often than not, cardboard which has a glossy surface (such as a cornflake box, whether printed or not) is less than suitable.  However the brown card envelopes now used by Amazon is really quite excellent for our purpose. 

Again.., I am not saying 'do as I do'  ..all I'm showing here is 'this is how I do things' if you find yourself caught-short of a gasket . . .



^ with the card cut slightly oversize, and three of the sides square to each other (because the holes will be measured from their edge, the first two holes are easy to mark.  The hole centres were first marked as ticks along the edge but then checked with a ruler.  Note ; as this gearbox was made to imperial measure, so then the checking of its hole centres was done to 1/16".   Btw, that first edge overhangs the side of the gearbox case a little, simply because the card is stronger when the holes are not so very close to the edge.  If that is subsequently ugly (such as on a motorcycle engine which is clearly seen) then it is best trimmed after the cover is installed.

Holes are not so difficult when you press them out, rather than trying to cut or drill them. Here's how. . .

P1400290s.JPG.3fc879bfadfd6a2a7ed7d93efbf2fcba.JPG    P1400293s.JPG.516a17c7af85eeea2cad54718de9ca7a.JPG

^ the hole centres are marked on the one side of the paper, and a suitable penny washer is aligned to those. It is held in that position as the card is turned over and placed faced-down on a work-bench edge, and then a suitable rounded end of a ring spanner is pushed into it.  The steel of the ring spanner pushed firmly and turned stamps a hole neatly through the cardboard.  It's very nearly the same as using a hole punch through the edge of a sheet of paper ..but I do find using a washer easier to centre accurately. These simple tools, and a used Amazon envelope, are also convenient for the tool kit when touring.

NB. the penny washer has sharper edges on one side than the other from where it's been stamped, the sharp side is used against the card.  The ring spanner has to be small enough, to push into the hole.  And the hole in the penny washer (penny washer used because it's easier to hold when turned over) is a size smaller than the bolt size used.  ..So, in this instance the bolt is 5/16" UNC. The penny washer used was of 6mm (1/4") hole, and the ring-spanner used was of 8mm.   


^ the cut hole is adequately neat (..the pressed out piece of card still within the washer).


^ Although firm pressure is needed to punch these holes out.. accurately marking out their position is very much more time consuming.  Again remember to measure in from the edge of straight edges and then check the hole centres correspond to imperial measure, so in this example the centreline of top cover's LHS holes is exactly 5" apart from the centreline of the RHS holes.    


^ I had carefully removed the old gasket and with that loosely in position over the new, I roughly traced the line of the inside cut. Using a straight edge I refined my tracing before cutting.  Still it saved a fair amount of time, in measuring and draughting the cut line . . . 


^ almost done.  Although I use scissors to cut the outside shape, I find it easier to cut the inside with a Stanley-knife (cutting through onto a piece of scrap plywood) ..working from each corner.  


^ to finish off, I've sealed the card's surface and edges with paint.  Here I've used aerosol zinc-primer, which with a finger I've rubbed into the surface and in particular into the cut edges of the cardboard.  This was done on both sides, and is akin to fibreglassing, whereby its resin holds the fibres together.  Here I'm using the paint to prevent any loose paper fibres along the inside edges from washing away.  As you can see I've only applied and rubbed-in a thin / sealing coating of paint.

Making this gasket from scratch, including paint and taking all the photos, took 60 minutes ..so it's not instant. But at the same time buying and getting a new one isn't either.  And this is (imo) much better than reusing an already compressed gasket, or else using an excess of goo.

Once the paint is dry, its use is just the same as a commercially available gasket. In this application I'll most likely use a smear of Wellseal between the gasket and gearbox case, and a smear of heavy grease between the gasket and the top cover.

"granddad, have you sucked that egg yet ? " :rolleyes:



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Other little jobs are being done ...

P1400215s.JPG.67f5df79a72d233b8b14985138cb62c8.JPG    P1400305s.JPG.09d8a18cc958a56b529160c2975a8f3e.JPG

^ as previously spotted, this stud through the overdrive's flange and its nut were not exactly precision fitted.  The stud was poking through the back, but lacking threads in the nut.   The dilemma then was how to get the stud out ..with damaging it and or separating the joint.?  As you can see there's not enough thread for a single nut let alone for locking two together . . .


^ the solution I chose was to remove the washer, to expose more thread, and to loosely refit the nut on its stud with medium strength Loctite.  When this cured it undid the stud from the cast flange.  


^ although I would have preferred it an 1/8" longer.. the stud is just about long enough.   I applied loctite to the thread into the cast flange and screwed it in to be flush with it back face. I let that cure before refitting its washer and nut. 


^ Job done ..next.

It was disappointing to see that the clutch release mechanism had been altered from as I'd fitted it just a few months ago . . .


^ several things were apparent. 1. I had left double bushes in the case where the rod passes through ..because those bushes were rather short.  2. there's a glean of oil around the bellhousing. somewhere is leaking.  3. the grease I had applied was lithium based molybdenum-disulphide ..as used CV joints where high shear loads (ie., sliding) and infrequent maintenance access is usual.  This has been substituted with Copaslip ..a very different product intended for a completely different job.  4. the lock wire through the release-lever-fork does not go through the dowel pin.  The prior owner of this car did that and the pin fell out and then the main pin sheared off, so I consider it necessary to wire that dowel pin in place.  


^ where I'm pointing to, there's oil  ..as if that gasket face is leaking.  Or else the oil has come passed a seal around the splined shaft and has dribbled back.  It might better account for the sheen of oil all around the inside of the bellhousing.  Either way, it's an unhappy prospect. 

P1400318s.JPG.28a42f9ddf45f7ecfa246d9f93bea4b5.JPG    P1400313s.JPG.042d788d2cadd772bdd626833f599d56.JPG

^ Both ends of this shaft and their bushes are dry of lubrication.  ^^And the bush in the RHS is part hanging out, with its end battered. As the bush is short it ought at least be under the shaft.  These were a brand new bushes, that I had carefully drifted into their place. And there was a bolt through the hole under it, which located it.

I'm disheartened by the lack of care & attention. 

I'll see if I can get another pair of new bushes, before I refit the gearbox.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Dobloseven said:

Well Peter, I think you've well and truly proved the old saying, "If you want a job doing right, do it yourself"! 

I wonder if I've just well and truly proved the old saying,  "a fool and his money are soon parted"  ?  ..as it seems I'm easily persuaded to pay the bill of someone who is said to have a worthy reputation.  

I do feel for the proprietor of the business, whose reputation and goodwill from doing that-bit-extra is undermined by those sub-contractors.  I spent 45 minutes on the phone to him the other day, not shouting but going through a long list of things on my car that might have been the cause of expensive mechanical failure &/or accident ..for which he / his business would be liable.  He took it well and admitted that he would probably conclude the work already in hand, personally checking things carefully as he might, and then not do any more work with them. Thereafter he'd stick to his base line business, which was high-end classic car body restorations, but not the mechanical side of things. 

I expressed the irony insomuch as he is based in the West Midlands, home of the car industry, and yet couldn't find a conscientious mechanic of classic cars.  He replied that more recently trained mechanics are fitters who do what a diagnostic machine tells them to, and the older generation are gainfully employed or retired.  



Link to comment
Share on other sites

photos speak for themselves . . .


^ bolts without plain shanks and an apparently reused gasket.  


^ two thread inserts, both proud of the gasket face.


^ untapped hole for the thread insert


From cleaning out that hole.. it feels like silicon but with stripped-out-thread-bits to give it a nice crunchy texture.


P1400407s.JPG.7a72481fea31d8c3a30137a14859906e.JPG    P1400408s.JPG.804b7dcd6f2de2f8425bd623d1cf25c6.JPG

^ the top hole's thread insert, similarly in a plain (untapped) hole. 


^ it's going to rather difficult to prevent swarf from my tapping that hole, inbetween the two gears, from dropping into the gearbox case. 

And this is just 200 miles since the gearbox was professional rebuilt by Klassic Transmissions.   I don't know if these faults were there before, but still I feel they ought to have been rectified in a professional manner.  And although there might have been an occasional drip of oil under the car - it was, when bought, remarkable oil-leak free. 



Link to comment
Share on other sites


I guess someone made a mistake ..and pulled the wrong size drill out of their kit..  ^ The drill supplied in my UNC thread-insert kit, when tapping for a 3/8" insert, is in the hole, whereas that for the 5/16" UNC (the correct bolt size) is in my fingers.  So someone over-drilled them, and then instead of finishing the job with oversized bolts, they simply used goo.

I might have sought sleeved inserts to fit into that over-sized hole, or else I was to go up in size to 3/8" UNC..  And that's what I've now done.   Very awkward little task doing those two, so close to the input shaft, and within the bell housing, but I'm pleased with the way they've gone in.  I guess I was very fortunate in preventing bits from dropping inside the gearbox, (using white grease on multiple layers of bubblewrap poked in, behind the holes, on the gearbox side) as subsequent flushing out with aerosol carb cleaner submitted no bits of swarf.   

Copper washers were used, but I see in the workshop manual that wedglok bolts were originally specified. 

Tomorrow I'll shop for a couple of bolts and copper washers to suit.


^ I'm equally as unimpressed with the drain plug hole, I'd guess that requires a special tapered tap ?


Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Dick Longbridge said:

That's appalling. Is he refunding the majority of the bill you've paid? 

I've suggested to Mark that he should get the money he's paid out (gearbox in and out two or three times after it was refitted following the chassis swap - to sort out its oil leak ..which they claimed not to be able to find) and also to get back the money I paid out for it to be rebuilt.  But I've not heard, and Tbh I don't expect to. 

I'm weary of fighting with people who are out to cheat and deceive everyone (it's not only me, is it ! ?) ..and such disputes are only upsetting to me. After all they clearly don't care a jot.  So let the devil take them. 



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Lady and Gentlemen for your continued support... 

I've been otherwise busy these past couple of days, but this afternoon I refitted the front seal cover.  As it was., I had already tapped and thread-inserted two of the four fastening holes with 3/8" UNC threads, while the other two remain as 5/16" UNC. . . . . .

P1400420s.JPG.a12831e396d071e4fa64fa9e5b69c97e.JPG    P1400426s.JPG.91d46b37c42fb46924e08f24dc3d78b9.JPG

^ of course, due care was needed to ensure that no coil wire end, nor bits of swarf, dropped into the input-shaft bearing or gear case.  And, as before, the thread-inserts were Loctited in place and fitted just a little below the gasket face. Thankfully the length, the back-end of those through to the gear-case, were excellent. They are, I feel, now noticeably stronger than the original tapped threads.

Today I started off with a little shopping, to Suffolk Fasteners, Ipswich because I needed just the two 3/8" UNC bolts.  Because I wanted a plain-shanked bolt for these ..I bought longer and cut them to length.  I'd also cleaned things up, made a new gasket, and annealed the two copper washers I'll reuse. . .

P1400430s.JPG.5ffb3a0914f93605c2b5eb3f26b90f43.JPG   P1400428s.JPG.6931904ea5e63a84300777acdbb2c6c3.JPG


^ Parts all but ready. The inside of the cover's tube was water-proof greased to prevent surface rust.  And the seal was given a liberal coating of synthetic lubricant containing Teflon.   I used Wellseal on one side of the gasket (..which is first fitted around the bearing's retaining circlip) and a smear of grease on the other face.


^ another little minute job - done. 

Hopefully tomorrow I get a chance to refit the thrust-bearing assembly and perhaps drop the gearbox back into the car.



Link to comment
Share on other sites


In the meantime . . ,  aside from sometimes being idle, I'm taking the opportunity of clearer access to do a little more inside the car. . .

P1400329s.JPG.26e883f09d50f531de22318051a246a9.JPG    P1400330s.JPG.44237f747afdbc761e1d622893c18622.JPG

^ starting off with cleaning away the old gearbox-cover gasket, and straightening the (supposed) sealing flanges, which had been battered (..not by myself I might add).  After all, if I hope for a reasonably pleasant car one day, then I really ought to avoid engine and transmission noise and fumes simply wafting through the gaps.

P1400331s.JPG.7af5fdbd7b6ef9b0216c354c9026b8d5.JPG    P1400335s.JPG.13f740cb7d97be49e0ab7e550bb76377.JPG

^ Use a hammer & dolly where I can, but in places where the access is limited then an adjustable spanner, closed down to the flange's metal thickness, provide an excellent lever for easing the metal back into shape.   Note, the sealing / fastening flange for the cover, on the later cars, projects from the bulkhead. There are no fastening holes through the bulkhead itself.

P1400342s.JPG.f757863bb55ec1d9dd4e9a18ff9deecb.JPG    P1400345s.JPG.c72b2086ea1d529a595d934b44552afd.JPG

^ I also took the opportunity (easier access) to start cleaning up the bulkhead and then the driver's floor of crud, surface rust and rock-hard carpet-felt goo. 

My keenness was to get back onto a task that I started half a year ago, and that was to replace the thin fibreglass gearbox-cover fitted, with a steel one from a TR3. . .


^ I'd already cut it in two, so that rear of the dashboard support / H-frame would be detachable without disturbing the forward (bulkhead / under dashboard) section. But I'd never got as far as cleaning it up nor to straighten its flanges.  As you can see this cover's end flange (left hand side of photo), is designed to sit flat against the bulkhead of the side-screens cars. It is fastened through this to the bulkhead.   

P1400351s.JPG.ee07cc284e272076860ceb3f98ea18ed.JPG    P1400381s.JPG.c5fc184bb55e3e3be53a76afe7192075.JPG

^ that's very much straighter, sitting flat on the floor and its forward (bulkhead) flange sitting nominally upright and square.  But there was still some repairs to do where this 60+ year old cover had cracks through a couple of its slotted bolt holes. 


^ When fitted into the car this TR3 cover mostly fits the, 10-year later massively revised body design of my TR4A.  This is particularly amazing insomuch as the cover's fastening and seal flanges are different.  Nevertheless five of the fastening bolts (1/4" UNF) around its bottom fitted without alteration (three on the RHS and two others on the LHS).  The height at the rear end (where I cut it off) is very much taller and wider than the TR4 type (which has to fit under the dashboard support / H-frame), but its fit to the body tub and along the floor edge is very convenient for its reuse. 


^ From the inside you can see that the floor width is very good. NB, the TR4 floor-edge lacks a bolt hole in that front left hand , so the corner of the cover is not being pulled down fully).  Otherwise, the cover's overall height around the front flange started off being about 8 - 10mm too tall.  The steel cover has a hard corner shape on the LHS which needed to be tapped to a smoother curve.  And a similar place on the RHS (at the top of the starter-motor's bulge) likewise needed a little easing and squaring to the TR4's sealing flange.  Otherwise, the bulged shape around the starter motor was a little too rounded. . .


^ Although it took a while (..and an embarrassing show of bad temper when I ran out of welding wire ..just as the daylight was fading !) - the task of getting this cover to sit even better / flat against Katie's  bulkhead, and down onto both side's floor edge, really wasn't that difficult a task.  The width was already accurate, and the height at the front has now pulled down to about 6mm (1/4") too high. This is relative to the TR4's bulkhead sealing flange, but that really isn't too important to me as I can easily fill that with foam rubber. 

all in all, good progress and a very pleasing fit (..all things considered) ..but then it was dark again and I couldn't see to continue.

If I get the gearbox back in the car in tomorrow, then that'll give me the height I can taper the cover down to towards its rear.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Slight change of plan today, I decided not to drop the gearbox back in yet.   Last night, I noted in one of my photos that the other RHS gearbox-top-cover's threaded hole was also damaged.  So, while the task is easy to do, I decided to fit a thread insert in there too ..not least because when I bought the car, its overdrive's earth lead was clamped under that bolt ..and so that thread may get a little more use than the others.

Therefore, in planning my day - I opted to repaint the gearbox cover's flange on the bulkhead, the underside of the battery shelf, and a section of the passenger's footwell ..again while access is easier. And then while that paint was drying.. I'd work on the gearbox . . .


^ I'm very pleased with how this paint applied by brush and covered. It's thin enough to brush into the cracks of panel overlaps, but just about thick enough, even on this chilly day, to not run.  It came from Johnstone's trade store and is their Smooth Metal Paint  (Acrylic, so that I might thin it down with white spirits should I need it very thin / for wicking into joints).  The colour is RAL3001 Signalrot (red) which is very close to this car (I took a piece in to be colour matched). 

The rear half of the passenger footwell I'll repaint after the gearbox is slid back in and my bashing of the steel gearbox cover is done. The driver's footwell still needs a bit more cleaning up before I paint it with POR-15 (as I'd already done on the passenger side). It'll then get painted body colour whenever anon.

As intended, I then fitted another 5/16 UNC thread-insert into the top of the gearbox, before cleaning off the black paint and giving it a light blow-over with aerosol silver. . .  


^ the (exchanged / reconditioned) overdrive was already bright n' shiny silver, but the gearbox and its bellhousing were patchy / flaky black paint with a smear of oil. Although I hope not to see it again very often, I'll now be able to more easily tell where any other oil leak may be coming from.   

That's it from blustery wet Ipswich tonight. I bid you warmth in your home and a pleasant weekend.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By EmperorPigeon
      Back in late March and early April thanks to a tip off from @Mrs6C, I negotiated a price for the pictured Enfield 8000 four seater (yes one of the two that exist ). I offered £800, seller countered with £850 and the man maths said "yes!" and it was still a discount over the £1k asking price.
      Since then it has been a bit of a slog getting updates. The seller would find himself busy with life and it did feel that the car and our deal was on the back burner. The chassis, as of April, was "solid" with just the front wishbone driver side suspension arm needing replacing which was finally completed a few days ago, thanks to having a real deadline with myself having arranged the courier (the seller had promised to sort out collection and delivery, but it was clear it wasn't happening). Still, in fairness, the work was completed at no extra cost to myself, and I look forward to taking delivery of the car Tuesday morning. When it arrives I'll be back here with a proper assessment and many a photo and/or video. I have also had a great deal of support and encouragement from @Will on Syrosbehind the scenes in PMs.
      I did make it clear when negotiating that my budget was not high, it would be my first car, everything was going to be done cheaply and on my driveway. That budget was £2000 and that is a budget that no longer exists at that amount, so expect to see some things of worth being placed in the appropriate thread from my good self to support the habit go into the battlechest. I don't expect a huge amount of work will be able to be done given the time of year, but I will keep you all apprised.
      Weather permitting come Tuesday morning, once the car has arrived I will give the car a clean inside and out as I like to have a clean and tidy working area. Otherwise it'll be moving the soft furnishings and vulnerable interior components inside, along with the spares (I have no idea what the spares will be, these will be documented in a later post). I already have a good idea on how I'm going to go about the restoration, however I'm holding off talking about most of that until I see the car for myself. One thing is the paint. I don't have the money for a professional respray, so I'm going the Not2grand DIY route. I've had a lot of experience with spray paints and with proper prep work, it'll look decent and far better than she does now. Verona BMW red is too expensive (it would be though wouldn't it?) so I'm going with Signal Red because Flame Red is too dark/doesn't feel right. Tubular steel and such is dirt cheap and I have a nearby supplier just 8 miles away and they do delivery - I can even get aluminium and tin from them which will be necessary.
      Most people will parrot "traction batteries!" but I'm not paying £1500. I'll take some measurements and go down the route of 8 12v 130-150ah batteries that will cost about £500. As an aside, the brochures/advertisements for the E8000 list the main battery pack as being 8 12v batteries, which I'll configure to be a 48v 260-300ah pack depending on the batteries I get and the space available.  Furthermore, each E8000 was different and various battery configurations were experimented with during production and later by the Electricity Council. I'll be making a cardboard mock-up first and buying replacement cabling and lugs so as to have everything properly measured and relatively straightforward. The onboard charger will be ignored in favour of a Mean Well 48v PSU going into a solar charge controller. That or a Meanwell charger, price permitting. It wouldn't be fast but then I wouldn't be driving every day or going beyond a 20-25 mile round trip. Taking into account the Peukhert effect with what the motor would demand at full power (150amps, or 7.2kw/6kw to the drive wheels at roughly 83.25% efficiency), such a battery pack (12.48kw to 14.4kw depending on what fits the physical space and that I can afford) it would probably be reduced to 9-12kw depending on the pack size. Noting that if I went with a 150ah battery pack it would be reduced to 75ah capacity at full draw, but the bigger the battery pack the less of an impact. I just need not to drive around like a lunatic.
      Also until its done, this is all theory and speculation and I look forward to finding out the real statistics for my particular setup.
      Lastly,  it should be clear as well  is that this isn't going to be the next Flux Capacitor, very little if any restomodding will occur (although I have a couple of subtle ideas), and I will be cutting corners where I can to get the car functional, relatively reasonable to look at, and roadworthy. As an aside to those that will be annoyed by my approach: the car had been up for sale back in late 2019 when the previous seller bought it, then up for sale since January 2021 until March when the advert was taken down and it was after that when I started my enquiries, so many a chance to make a deal before I did. That said, I know from the various threads I've been lurking in here that most of you are reasonable and understanding.

      So here's to an enjoyable-as-possible restoration project!  

    • By Sheldon_Classic_Britian
      Hello Everyone
      So I thought I would make a topic about my YouTube channel and my cars and project. So for those who don't know 4 years ago I bought my first car a 1975 Rover P6 2.2SC manual and I made a video on the car and then I made another and another and it became popular ( God knows why LOL!) and people started subscribing and people really seamed to like what I was doing so I carried one and it never really stopped! So I created this topic to connect with some viewers and two see your cool projects and no it does not have to be a Rover! Mostly I just want to chat to people about there projects swap ideas and chat about cars and of course if you have a cool car that I could film that would be great =)  
      Thanks for looking and look forward to seeing your cool stuff! 

    • By 62 Austin
      I saw a TR7 F/S in EBAY only a 6 hour drive away.  Coupe. Doesn´t run. White. In the USA. The upholstery is Looking Out For Better Weather. $500 starting bid. I only dimly remember what´s wrong with these; besides torpedoing a whole company and the engine. Anyone ever drive or buy one? Export only, or did there used to be people in England, Scotland & Wales driving these around? This 1 has the Dorsal Escape Hatch.
  • Create New...