project 1951 Pontiac Chieftain

[DeeJay]

The car on Fast and Loud had bench seats but that was the only pic I could find.

[PhilA]

Probably something similar to this?:

 

 

Handles at the top coming out and the rope attached to the side of them.

 

Phil

[tooSavvy]

 

.... sorta.

[PhilA]

Ooh, a heavy box arrived.

 

 

It's a new 3 ton, low profile jack.

 

 

It fits under the chassis. This is a good thing.

Sadly next to the car it looks small. It isn't small.

 

Phil

[SiC]

A good jack is the most important tool for a man (and many ladies too of course)

[SiC]

In other news, the first post in this thread is the fourth most liked post on this forum.

http://autoshite.com/best-content/

[PhilA]

Gosh.

[DeeJay]

A good jack is the most important tool for a man (and many ladies too of course)

Oooh, Matron.

[PhilA]

Well, moved things out the way and slotted the jack up under the front. Up under the big cast section that supports the engine and has the lower suspension mounts attached to it.

 

No effort, both wheels up off the floor.

 

 

This I like.

 

 

Phil

[PhilA]

Older model variant temperature sender arrived today (Wells TU-4).

 

 

At room temperature just about 600 Ohms, so that's definitely workable. Now to re-wind the coils to match!

 

Phil

[somewhatfoolish]

Bench meter envy.

 

[LightBulbFun]

Needs more nixie tubes 

 

 

(dont worry I peeled that sticker off and properly rewired it, for those who dont know, white is neutral and black is live on US stuff)

[somewhatfoolish]

I did have one, a british-made one IIRC, but it got downsized in a move. Now I make* do with a Fluke.

[PhilA]

Fiiiiiiine.

 

 

It's cold out here.

 

 

Phil

 

 

Edit: Systron Donner, a branch of Thorn EMI.

[PhilA]

Took some measurements of the TU-4 sensor.

 

100F is 280 ohms

180F is 100 ohms

230F is 50 ohms

 

Gonna tweak the coils to match now. Rewound to standard to make sure it was actually working (it is). Gonna pull some turns off the left coil to boost how powerful it is.

 

Phil

[PhilA]

Somewhere in the approximate ball park.

 

 

Further refinement required, I am going to put the sensor in water to hold the temperature longer, and that I can put a thermometer in easily. My infrared thermometer has issues with the shiny brass (I put some matte black paint on it earlier which was kinda ok).

 

 

Phil

[xtriple]

Fuck me! I bow to your skills! Words... fail me. I thoghtI did well etting the aues to work in yon V12 but that was simple stuff, you would have barely opened your eyes from a good nights sleep, in fact, you may have done them IN your sleep!

[PhilA]

Today we take over the kitchen, much to the chagrin of the wife.

 

 

Pot of water, thermistor, sugar thermometer, gauge and a battery. Just waiting for it to heat up.

[Guest Hooli]

It's been heating for an hour now, did it work?

[LightBulbFun]

It's been heating for an hour now, did it work?

 

must be on a slow boil to get the tenderness just right 

[DeeJay]

The wife, "Sod this, get that shit out of my kitchen".

[PhilA]

I had a bit of a poke about, I'm currently plotting temperature versus resistance of the sender.

 

 

Trying to get the balance of the two coils right- because it's a voltage divider in two coils at right angles, the mathematics has broken my brain so I'm just experimenting right now.

 

Phil

[PhilA]

I have the curve now.

 

 

Unfortunately today has come to an end due to unexpected overnight guests so I'm running around tidying up the spare room.

 

Phil

[mat_the_cat]

Needs more nixie tubes 

 

Mine is newer, but I like yours more!

 

 

I'd settle for even a VFD but nixies are lovely

[PhilA]

Thinking on this, to increase the magnetic flux, I must increase the current flowing through the coil.

 

I can do that by reducing the length of the wire, and thus the resistance; however in so doing the number of turns around the bobbin reduce, so in practice net result is more heat produced for very similar magnetic flux.

 

So, the same length of wire is required but more current must pass through it to create a greater flux. Increase the gauge of the wire and more current will flow.

 

I don't have a bigger gauge wire right now so what I can do is wind two lengths of wire on in parallel. I'm going to try see if I can do that tomorrow, if time allows.

 

If my theory is sound then I'll order some larger gauge wire and go from there.

 

Phil

[PhilA]

And, I suppose I rather am due providing a bit of an explanation.

 

I think really the simplest way to describe the gauge setup is to use a tug-of-war analogy.

 

Each coil is a team in either end of the rope. The needle position is how far the flag in the center is away from the middle.

 

You bias one team with a few less people, so with no instruction one team is always pulling the other to the end of their run. The needle reads cold.

 

The temperature sender is the equivalent of telling the team with more people to pull less. Eventually they are overcome by the strength of the other team (who are always pulling as hard as they can) and the flag begins to move in their favor.

 

The less you tell the bigger team to pull, the more they are overcome and eventually the smaller team will pull them across (needle reads hot).

 

So, my problem is the bigger team needs to pull with less strength per instruction to pull less.

 

The other team always pull as hard as they can. With the old sensor they'd have to pull 30 pounds less to start to move the flag; now they should only have to pull 10 pounds less to begin to move it.

 

Now work that out where the amount of pull one team makes isn't actually always the same and they're actually pulling at right angles with a flag that changes weight as they pull it...

 

 

Phil

[timolloyd]

Great explanation. Where you/are you a teacher by any chance?

[Ghosty]

You and your multimeters...

[PhilA]

Great explanation. Where you/are you a teacher by any chance?

Nope. I work with backhaul and IP network delivery.

 

Phil

[hairnet]

The wife, "Sod this, get that shit out of my kitchen".

right before a left hook