project 1951 Pontiac Chieftain

[hairnet]

Nah, you're too contemporary. The reason for that is the engine is already fitted with a Carter.

jimmy.

[hairnet]

 my fingers smelled very familiar

 

 

[Zelandeth]

You'll need some good degreaser. The gearbox on the Invacar was called in about an inch and a half of congealed grease, mud and old gearbox oil.

 

Normal degreaser and the uber-violent-has-been-known-to-take-paint-off head didn't even touch it! Wound up having to physically chisel the bulk of it off.

[PhilA]

Yes, this is kinda caked on. It's gonna be fun*.

 

Finished adjusting tappets. Managed to get one not quite at the bottom of the cam, so there's one that clicks. I'll redo the adjustment another day now I know how to do it.

 

However, squealing fan belt aside, what a difference it makes.

 

 

(And, for those of you who like it loud, before I put the exhaust back on):

 

 

Phil

[Exiled_Tat_Gatherer]

Second vid gave me trouser tent.......... 

[Guest Hooli]

Oh that is a lovely sound.

[PhilA]

Also, an added Brucie Bonus- I tightened the manifold up in the correct order (centre first, working out) and now it doesn't leak, or it doesn't leak as bad.

 

I need to try and find the pipework for the crankcase ventilation too, discovered someone had taped it closed. I was wondering why it was a little smoky out of the oil filler cap.

 

 

I put the valve covers back on correctly- they were switched sides and both upside down before. There's meant to be a pipe coming off the left one, into a flame trap then out under the car.

 

 

I'm just glad I have a garage. I've been able to work on the car whatever the weather.

 

Phil

[PhilA]

Oh, and for giggles- recall I said I drained down the cooling system? That was only the top part of the engine and upper edge of the radiator.

 

http://pontiac.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1949/1949%20Pontiac%20Shop%20Manual/18-Accessories/image8.html

 

There's without all the heater pipes connected (they probably leak) and just the engine. Refilling it took 3.5 gallons (that's 13 litres!).

 

It's an absolutely massive cooling system. Mind you, it's a big engine, too...

 

Phil

[hairnet]

wimp gallons or imperial?

[PhilA]

US gallons, natch. Hence why I converted it to Canadian for y'all.

 

Phil

[drum]

GR9 thread.

 

Even contains a Y tho?

 

[Asimo]

You can't beat a sidevalve / flathead for turning petrol into waste heat what with all that combustion chamber surface area and low compression (and very long exhaust ports if you're a Ford V8)

 

Do you need the under-seat heaters down there in the South?

[Guest Slongchod]

Do you need the under-seat heaters down there in the South?

 

Need? What's that got to do with it?

[Squire_Dawson]

I've used Carplan degreaser/engine cleaner with no problems. Worked well in with an old washing-up brush and left for five minutes then brushed again, before hosing off has always shifted the crap.

[PhilA]

Do you need the under-seat heaters down there in the South?

No, not really for 360 days of the year. The defrost is useful to warm the screen to stop it from getting condensing dew in the mornings on the outside.

 

Phil

[PhilA]

Bought a few odds and ends after work.

 

 

Rubbed the reflector down with sandpaper to get rid of the worst of the rust.

 

 

Moderate. That'll do as a test.

 

 

A scootch of shiny aluminum paint...

 

 

That is better!

 

 

You can see it shiny through the lens.

 

 

Parking light is noticably brighter.

 

 

Turn signal is definitely more visible outside in the light.

I also bought some little bulbs.

 

 

Glovebox light! Luxury!

 

 

Heater controls all light up now too.

I replaced the bright lights bulb with a 1.9W bulb, it's now a better brightness for night time. I also replaced the left turn signal light. I'm going to try repair the shift lever light also.

 

Phil

[Rocket88]

Top bombing.......Wurlitzer style dashboards on this era of GM stuff was lovely..........

[PhilA]

Not sure why but whoever rewired it didn't work the dash illumination through the rheostat in the light switch (pull for parking lights, pull again for headlights, twist for dash brightness), bit I'll agree that I do really like the way it looks.

 

It's got a warm comforting glow to it, whilst remaining easy to see.

 

Phil

[Zelandeth]

That dash lighting looks bloody lovely that does.

[PhilA]

For more comedy* amusement, I noticed earlier that one headlight is wired backwards. Put the lights on, you get one bright and one dip light. Press the floor button and they alternate.

 

Top notch electrics!

 

 

Phil

[paulplom]

It looks brilliant.

[busmansholiday]

For more comedy* amusement, I noticed earlier that one headlight is wired backwards. Put the lights on, you get one bright and one dip light. Press the floor button and they alternate.

 

Top notch electrics!

 

 

Phil

I wonder if they were related to a previous owner of my HiAce who, unable to find the fusebox, re-wired the radio and clock directly to the battery using a mix of red and black for the power feed.

[PhilA]

Quite possibly. There's a lot of "don't need this wire" and snip, leaving the cut wire dangling.

 

I'm looking at replacing the gauges with VDO standard movements. They're 90 degree gauges like the originals, but the original gauges are a twin voice coil style. They need a 6 Volt feed to create the locking magnet and then vary the current through a second coil at 90 degrees to the first to move the needle. Not good for a 12V system.

Changing the movements to something modern means also modern sensors are available (VDO at least are still around).

 

Phil

[PhilA]

Convinced SWMBO that 4x off-brand VDO knockoff gauges v. important to have. Can get a sensor that has both thermistor and a closure switch to bring in on a warning light for overheat for the engine, oil pressure sender unit is again standard and ditto fuel tank sender unit.

 

Next task, trying to figure out how to remove the dashboard.

 

I think this will represent the point of no return for the electrics. I'll probably rig up a hotwire so I can start it up and move it easily but the rest will begin to be pulled out.

 

Next paycheck I'll order some wire and crimps. I'm thinking a couple multiplugs for things like the dash to make life a little easier.

 

My oil can and hot air gun arrived today too. Woo!

 

Phil

[Squire_Dawson]

Would you keep it 6v, or has too much already been done? It would be a ball-ache to convert the instruments certainly. Plus 6v batteries give more power.

[PhilA]

Too much has been done and torn out already that I'm just going to go ahead and convert it properly to 12V.

 

Phil

[Squire_Dawson]

Fair cop. Naturally, I would've kept it a sixer, but that's just me!

[PhilA]

The lighting has all been changed, the generator is gone, control box gone, horns are gone, battery box gone.

 

The starter is still the 6V one but that's a case of "don't hold it on start for too long". It is the size of a small waste paper basket so can handle low duty cycle at 12V. I'll just keep an eye on the brushes.

 

I'm wanting to put some more modern pieces in behind the scenes, radio and such. 6V is actually a complete pain in the behind here- all mail order. Everything 12V on the car I can get off the shelf at any local motor factors so on the road repairs are significantly simplified and reduced in time.

 

 

I'm not going to go out and try jetwash some of this crap off...

 

Phil

[SiC]

What about powering the gauges & senders off one of the many cheap Chinese adjustable regulator modules to convert down to 6v?

[DodgeRover]

Was that heating system a special order for colder states or standard? Looking with envy at what you've posted the whole car has features that would be associated with much more recent cars in the UK.