invacar LightBulbFun's Invacar & general ramble thread, index on page 1, survivors lists on Pages 24/134 & AdgeCutler's Invacar Mk12 Restoration from Page 186 onwards, still harping on...

[plasticvandan]

Looks very much like the leak is above and running down.the area under the dipstick looks saturated.worth cleaning it and running it up with a torch to see if you can spot the leak.could be a barrel gasket,rocket gasket,pushrod seal etc.pushrod quite likely as thst usually has oil running up it.

[lesapandre]

Get an old oven tray and put it under the engine when you park up to catch the oil drips. 

Check the oil is not in fact over-filled. It is difficult to follow these oil leaks - clean up the diff and check it's not that - if it's not that I'd live with problem if there is not an obvious fix. They probably all do/did it. 

It certainly won't be a cracked crank-case or oil reservoir as that would lead to a continuous flow and oil all over road IMHO.

Main thing is oil not getting onto the exhaust and causing smoking.

[somewhatfoolish]

The transfer box on my landrover has leaked since I bought it a decade ago, I've changed the oil twice and checked the level a few times between, the level has never dropped a detectable amount(calibrated finger poked through level/filling hole). Keep an eye on the size of the oily territory marking and if the rate of growth changes it may be of concern. The engine mount frame on both sides looks oily, so probably pushrod tubes. It's an old car, TADTS.

[barefoot]

25 minutes ago, somewhatfoolish said:

It's an old car, TADTS.

And when it gets bad enough to top up, a red light appears on the dash and a noise comes from the engine, like a sort of rattle. This is what it looks like under my Scirocco. 

[Christine]

And you feel it tighten up a bit too ....eh?

[chadders]

1 minute ago, Christine said:

And you feel it tighten up a bit too ....eh?

It would with his T2 as the warning light only comes on at either 5 or 7 psi if it's the same as mine.

[Snake Charmer]

1 hour ago, chadders said:

It would with his T2 as the warning light only comes on at either 5 or 7 psi if it's the same as mine.

The "It’s too late" lamp. 😳

Dez, that's not a great deal of oil just REV marking it's territory since being let out in public. 😊

As mentioned previously,  a tray under the engine after a good run will help identify the type of fluid and give you a rough idea where it's coming from. I quite often leave a car overnight on the ramp after a good thrap up the road to check for incontinence.

[LightBulbFun]

thanks for the input everyone theres some more good suggestions ill have a look at next time in that area, glad to hear it does not seem to be of too much concern to anyone, I had figured myself that unless it was actively dripping or such, it could be fairly safely filed under "just keep an occasional eye on it and keep checking levels as per usual routine checks" but as per my original post on this, I of course realise I have no real world experience in these manners so figured best get it posted about and see what learned folk of these beige pages make of it

 

speaking of oil stuff, one of the things I have noticed is in the couple times when REV has had her oil filter changed, the replacement oil filter has been a MANN W712/43 the standard called for oil filter for a Steyr puch engine like REV's is a MANN W712 without any suffix number on the end, so its been bugging me as to what the difference is? I have tried to google it but i cant seem to find much on it sadly, I do happen to have on hand  a new MANN W712 no-suffix oil filter I Have been thinking of just fitting anyways because the miss-match bothers me, but I figured like the oil leak i'd ask about it here incase its nothing to worry about?

[beko1987]

The bottom of my engine looks like that every year from my rocker cover gasket weep. Every year I wipe it up and tell myself I'll replace the gasket this year... 🤷

I'd clean it up first then keep an eye on it, can of brake clean should see it gone

[chadders]

What's the heating by, water or air?

If it's air oil leaks can be pretty problematic, I'll expand on this if it is and you want me to.

[Dyslexic Viking]

32 minutes ago, LightBulbFun said:

speaking of oil stuff, one of the things I have noticed is in the couple times when REV has had her oil filter changed, the replacement oil filter has been a MANN W712/43 the standard called for oil filter for a Steyr puch engine like REV's is a MANN W712 without any suffix number on the end, so its been bugging me as to what the difference is? I have tried to google it but i cant seem to find much on it sadly, I do happen to have on hand  a new MANN W712 no-suffix oil filter I Have been thinking of just fitting anyways because the miss-match bothers me, but I figured like the oil leak i'd ask about it here incase its nothing to worry about?

MANN W712/43 seems to have an anti return valve which MANN W712 does not have apart from that the filters seem identical.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mann-filter/963587?search=MANN-FILTER+Oil+filter+(W+712%2F43)

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mann-filter/963573?search=MANN-FILTER+Oil+filter+(W+712)

I don't know how important the return valve is so can't help with that.

And W712 comes up here fitting on the Steyr Haflinger.

[Snake Charmer]

W712 has a bypass valve opening pressure of 2.5 Bar, W712/43 bypass pressure is 1.0 Bar with an anti drainback valve.

@Dyslexic Viking l was typing as you posted! 👍

[wuvvum]

31 minutes ago, chadders said:

What's the heating by, water or air?

If it's air oil leaks can be pretty problematic, I'll expand on this if it is and you want me to.

Engine is air cooled so I would assume the heating is via heat exchanger like on my Visa.

[LightBulbFun]

16 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

MANN W712/43 seems to have an anti return valve which MANN W712 does not have apart from that the filters seem identical.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mann-filter/963587?search=MANN-FILTER+Oil+filter+(W+712%2F43)

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mann-filter/963573?search=MANN-FILTER+Oil+filter+(W+712)

I don't know how important the return valve is so can't help with that.

And W712 comes up here fitting on the Steyr Haflinger.

 

12 minutes ago, Snake Charmer said:

W712 has a bypass valve opening pressure of 2.5 Bar, W712/43 bypass pressure is 1.0 Bar with an anti drainback valve.

@Dyslexic Viking l was typing as you posted! 👍

very interesting! thanks for digging up that info  hopefully the drain-back valve is in the right orientation, I vaguely recall reading a horror story of someone fitting a slightly different but otherwise identical oil filter to their car, but the drain-back valve was the wrong way round, so it ended up blocking all the oil flow through the engine, or something along those lines

[chadders]

22 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

Engine is air cooled so I would assume the heating is via heat exchanger like on my Visa.

That was my assumption.

If oil gets on it the resulting smokescreen in the cab can be more than a bit disconcerting, as I found out when I turned the heating on in my T2. Fortunately I was on the drive but I still dented the back bumper on a stone wall.

[LightBulbFun]

3 hours ago, chadders said:

That was my assumption.

If oil gets on it the resulting smokescreen in the cab can be more than a bit disconcerting, as I found out when I turned the heating on in my T2. Fortunately I was on the drive but I still dented the back bumper on a stone wall.

even better is when over winter the squirrels/other field critters fill up the cooling/heating system/ducts, the fins on the piston barrels etc with nuts, pine cones and other sundry items, and then you put the windscreen demister on you get a very dramatic show of smoke pouring down the windscreen 

but it smells very nice  

[Snake Charmer]

A remote control diesel heater would be a nice addition, step into a toasty warm and defrosted Model 70 on a cold day. 

[LightBulbFun]

in other small potato REV news, I have got the USB charger/volt meter I bought back in August 2019! for REV, on test  just got it charging up my iPad from a bench top PSU, just making sure it can at least survive this before I wire into REV!

rather amusingly the volt-meter does become slightly useless when you plug in a juicy USB device since you end up getting a little bit of voltage drop over its spindly flying wires from the load of the USB device so the built in volt meter drops by a couple hundred millivolts, unplug the USB device then the volt meter jumps up and agrees with what the bench top PSU is outputting, so I know the voltmeter itself is accurate at least  

I did look at replacing the spindly wires with something a bit more substantial for this reason, but due to the way its constructed theres not much space for that, if I can find another one of this style, I might pick it up for some more invasive experimentation in that regard, but for now ill just fit it as is with a suitable 2A inline fuse to be safe, and hopefully find somewhere accessible under the dashboard I can zip tie it too