Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[BeEP]

If you do convert to a duplex chain, be aware that the end plate (that sits behind the chain and has the engine mount lugs on) needs swapping for one from a 1300 (which all had duplex chains) or modifying.  The little screw heads which sit proud of the plate behind one of the gears (can't remember if cam or crank, it's a long time simce I converted one) will foul the duplex gear.  The 1300 end plate had countersunk holes and used screws with tapered heads which sit flush with plate.

 

I think I still have one I can take a photo of tomorrow if it helps.  I'm reluctant to sell it because as soon as I do I'll find another ado16 which I'd like to convert,

[DodgeRover]

Do what the good reverend suggests. You may find it doesn't all need polishing with a bit of luck!

[Squire_Dawson]

Thornton's for engine bearings. You will also need thrusts. The machine shop will write all measurements down for you. If done properly the engine will be like new and last tens of thousands of miles. Don't fuck it up.

[PhilA]

Price are ok. Have a word with Jamieson in Bedminster, just up the road from Cameron Balloons. They did my V8 and were good on price too.

 

 

Phil

[Noel Tidybeard]

Option 4 is the one I'm probably going to do. I've spoken to these guys and they've told me they can do pretty much anything on the engine I want them to. They can do polishing, regrinds, head work and even full-rebores. If I drop the crank in (ideally with the shells), they can recommend what the next best steps would be. Depending on the state of the journals they can either be ground or polished - including some polished and some ground (i.e. if the big ends just need polishing and have the mains ground). Chap said £16 per journal for grinding (I assume exc vat) and about half that for a polish.

 

 

 

shirley you wont know what size to order until a decision is made re polish/grind

[SiC]

Drop it in with the old shells to help decide what to do next.

[They_all_do_that_sir]

Awesome job dude. You've inspired me to go look at the Merc

 

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

[SiC]

Price are ok. Have a word with Jamieson in Bedminster, just up the road from Cameron Balloons. They did my V8 and were good on price too.

 

 

Phil

Really useful info. Close enough to work that I can trot down there in an afternoon. I'll give them a call.

[SiC]

Haven't got any welding done today. Apart from its really friggin cold outside, the garage is too much of an oily and flammable liability to risk any rogue sparks.

 

Also the debris collected isn't the best to have around when building upprecision machined metal machine.

 

These business card boxes were being chucked out from work and I rescued them as they make handy fixings containers. I took the time to record where these went as my memory has already started fading trying to remember what goes where.

 

As the crank is going to come out this week, I made a start on undoing bits. This bit didn't probably need to come off as the machine shop probably could have done it. Not sure what this bits called but it's the bit that goes on the crank and the clutch plate is on the end. (Edit: Primary Gear?)

 

Anyway it looks fucked. I guess I can get new bushes for this? Hopefully the machine shop place can do something about replacing them.

 

Engine end

 

Clutch plate end

 

At least the crank doesn't look totally fucked.

 

Just to add more to the "things I need to buy" list, the engine mount stud are fucked too.

Luckily these are cheap and easy to get hold of (standard Mini parts).

 

I'm going to plop the gearbox back on top for now so I can give the floor a degrease. Apart from the spark flying risk, I keep slipping up on it and no doubt risk having an imprint of the crank into my face.

[SiC]

If you do convert to a duplex chain, be aware that the end plate (that sits behind the chain and has the engine mount lugs on) needs swapping for one from a 1300 (which all had duplex chains) or modifying. The little screw heads which sit proud of the plate behind one of the gears (can't remember if cam or crank, it's a long time simce I converted one) will foul the duplex gear. The 1300 end plate had countersunk holes and used screws with tapered heads which sit flush with plate.

 

I think I still have one I can take a photo of tomorrow if it helps. I'm reluctant to sell it because as soon as I do I'll find another ado16 which I'd like to convert,

I did wonder about that as I saw the countersunk screws in the kit you can get. Can the end plate be drill out to countersink it? That was my original plan.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Primary gear = it's fucked. Just buy a good used one. A Series and A Plus ones are different.That bearing trouble is caused by the small oil holes being blocked. See them in pics 5 and 6, clean them though with a small drill. 

[SiC]

Primary gear = it's fucked. Just buy a good used one.

And again, this is the reason why the heads not coming off this engine!

 

(Otherwise this engine will become Triggers Broom)

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Go for a 24 teeth gear, not 29 teeth.

 

Here's one:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-mini-Primary-Gear-for-A-series-engine-24-teeth/192729350703?hash=item2cdf90822f:g:sHsAAOSwcbRbqSuV

 

The bushes don't need to be perfect btw. The gear is locked to the crank and only spins when the clutch is disengaged. As long as it spins smoothly on the crank and has plenty of oil, it's fine.Check the end float through when the C washer is refitted. Too much clearance and it'll whine.

[BeEP]

I did wonder about that as I saw the countersunk screws in the kit you can get. Can the end plate be drill out to countersink it? That was my original plan.

 

I'm sure it can; the twice I've done it I've been lucky enough to have all the bits from 1300 engines to use.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Don't bother with a duplex chain - save your money. The standard one is fine. 

[richardthestag]

what is wrong with that engine mount? I have found a lot of reproduction stuff is either hopelessly soft or hard and in either case breaks really quickly

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

1100 ones are specific. I fitted as retro one to mine and it was shit, a bastard to fit and it sat the engine and there wrong angle.

 

If it ain't broke...............

[SiC]

what is wrong with that engine mount? I have found a lot of reproduction stuff is either hopelessly soft or hard and in either case breaks really quickly

I'll try another picture. Damn phone is not wanting to focus properly.

 

Threads on the studs are fucked.

[Christine]

The primary  gears  are nearly all worn like that . Is that not why the 1100 club magazine is called Idle Chatter ???

 

Lovin this thread , jogging memories from 100's of years ago when i had 1100s 1300s  850s and 998s . Never had a 997 970 or 1071..I wasn't rich enough

[SiC]

 

 

The primary gears are nearly all worn like that . Is that not why the 1100 club magazine is called Idle Chatter ???

 

Lovin this thread , jogging memories from 100's of years ago when i had 1100s 1300s 850s and 998s . Never had a 997 970 or 1071..I wasn't rich enough

I guess I don't need to worry too much about it then?

 

I'll let the machine shop figure what to do with it. No doubt they've seen plenty of these over the years.

[SiC]

Things are a bit cleaner in the garage now. Tidying and cleaning up always takes do damn long.

 

Hopefully means time for welding tomorrow though. Just need to wake up early-ish for me to get on with it first thing.

 

I have to say, this vinyl floor such an awful background for photos!

[PhilA]

I'll try another picture. Damn phone is not wanting to focus properly.

Threads on the studs are fucked.

If the rubber is still good, re-tap those with new threads. Modern rubber is terrible, as has been noted.

 

Phil

[purplebargeken]

Yes, as Phil says, re-tap the buggers.

[Mally]

I presume you mean run a die down them?

Pointless, the top of the thread has vanished, it will just strip again.

[somewhatfoolish]

Given there's a decent amount of thread left just use spacers(or multiple washers) to avoid using the knackered bit.

[richardthestag]

I'll try another picture. Damn phone is not wanting to focus properly.

 

Threads on the studs are fucked.

 

yep 3 washers and nut will grip good thread. do not go new new stock engine mounts unless zero other options are available

[Zelandeth]

Given there's a decent amount of thread left just use spacers(or multiple washers) to avoid using the knackered bit.

What he said!

 

If it's salvageable, stick with the original one. The modern reproduction parts are made of cheese compared to the originals.

[SiC]

yep 3 washers and nut will grip good thread. do not go new new stock engine mounts unless zero other options are available

Or I could weld it onto the engine, leaving the next person to swear at me.

 

I don't even know if these mounts are original or NOS though. Sharley had the engine out last, so they well could be new repo ones that are fitted. He may remember if he changed them then or not.

[SiC]

Today I ran a new bead along the bottom.

 

Ground back

 

Cut off the excess new membrane metal.

 

Leaving something left that looks a lot like a sill.

 

I tried painting it but the aerosol can was having none of it in the cold weather and spluttered out paint haphazardly. Hopefully got enough on there to provide some rust protection.

 

Next up soon will be to cap the end of the new sill off. Genuine sill sections also have a stepped piece here to weld the wing onto, but I have none of that. I don't think it'll be a problem though as I can just clamp the wing onto the sill and run a bead down.

 

Need to reattach the door soon. Really could do with some paint over the zinc primer as it scratches really easily. Just it's far too cold for any hope of the paint curing properly.

 

I tried lining up the sill to floor cover but it doesn't fit in anyway obviously in place. Not least matching the photos of others I have. May need to have another look under a ADO16 soon to help figure it out.

[sharley17194]

dont cap it completely sealed, it needs to have a drain hole at the bottom, from factory it was a 1/2 inch square that was around 1 1/2 long. Otherwise the wing will have no where to drain too.

Today I ran a new bead along the bottom.


Ground back


Cut off the excess new membrane metal.


Leaving something left that looks a lot like a sill.


I tried painting it but the aerosol can was having none of it in the cold weather and spluttered out paint haphazardly. Hopefully got enough on there to provide some rust protection.

Next up soon will be to cap the end of the new sill off. Genuine sill sections also have a stepped piece here to weld the wing onto, but I have none of that. I don't think it'll be a problem though as I can just clamp the wing onto the sill and run a bead down.


Need to reattach the door soon. Really could do with some paint over the zinc primer as it scratches really easily. Just it's far too cold for any hope of the paint curing properly.

I tried lining up the sill to floor cover but it doesn't fit in anyway obviously in place. Not least matching the photos of others I have. May need to have another look under a ADO16 soon to help figure it out.