Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[SiC]

Also got the bolt out of the bottom plate. Could drill it out on the pillar drill easily with it on the bench.

 

Gave a quick clean up on the bench grinder and it's got some paint on drying now.

[Eddie Honda]

Got this from Moss:https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/socket-1-5-16-af-1-2-square-drive-dmr19989.html

 

That's the one of the ones I have (Elora is Draper)

 

 

The other is a Draper Expert 6pt impact.

[SiC]

Finding imperial sized impact sockets in the UK has not been easy. Even around the classic car shows, the tool suppliers give you a funny look when you ask for imperial impact sockets. Strange considering the shows are full of rusty British cars!

[Noel Tidybeard]

WOT? no timing chain tensioner? how is that suposed to rattle like an A-series if it can't have a loose chain tensioner? :o

[SiC]

Yeah that did confuse me. I guess it's not supposed to have one?

 

Didn't get any work done on this today as been at friends. Kinda lost a bit of mojo and slowed down right this second. The freezing weather and rain I don't think is helping in that regards.

 

Really need to get the door back on though as the insides keep filling up with water. Not helped by the lack of holes now in the floor!

 

I did poke a new hole in the floor by the flat plate the seat sits on.

[SiC]

Idler gear, how do I check the end float of it?

 

There is this:

https://www.minimania.com/Idler_gear___Setting_end_float

 

But I don't fully understand it. How do you get feeler gauges near the idle gear with the covers on?

[Christine]

C clip one feeler gauge , drop gear,   plastigauge?

 

 

Ah, didn't we put the casing on,leaving the c clip gear off , but the drop gear in ,and then feeling through the hole ? I never checked it properly , just if it was really wobbly ,fit another thicker thrust washer !! 

[dozeydustman]

Everything looks fine in that motor. If that hasn't been rebuilt at some point, even partially, that's one hell of a looked after engine. Think flickering oil light was because that oil pump was absolutely gashed.

 

1 and 5/16" rings a bell with a crank pulley bolt for an A-series.

 

Sorry if question answered already, had 2 days away from internet

[Slowsilver]

WOT? no timing chain tensioner? how is that suposed to rattle like an A-series if it can't have a loose chain tensioner? :o

 

IIRC the timing chain on early A series engines is tensioned by two large square-section O-rings which fit into grooves machined into the camshaft sprocket either side of the teeth. These protrude above the sprocket sides and the chain links run on them to tension* the chain.

A good idea in theory, much simpler and cheaper than a seperate spring-loaded tensioner.

Unfortunately in practice the timing chain runs in oil and the tensioner rings don't seem to be very oil resistant, so they go rock hard after only a few thousand miles and no longer apply any tension to the chain, hence TADTS.

Still worth replacing them while it is apart though, assuming they are still available.

I wonder if anyone does replacements made from some type of silicone which might last a bit longer.

[Noel Tidybeard]

the chain tensioner was boloxd on my maestro and rattled from whin i got it with about 35000 miles on untol i got rid with 90 something! lol

[tooSavvy]

I tried to lever the cam gear off my moggie... I *broke the rubber groove lips

 

I went to a dealer to price a replacement and he advised against it as the 'newer part' had NO rubber grooves!!

 

Breaker yard (.. removed gingerly!) sorted me + 2x Rubber Rings

 

*don't lever outer edge = use a 'spoon' which pushes out nearer the centre, from behind...

[richardthestag]

Finding imperial sized impact sockets in the UK has not been easy. Even around the classic car shows, the tool suppliers give you a funny look when you ask for imperial impact sockets. Strange considering the shows are full of rusty British cars!

 

top tip

 

convert imperials to metric using the interweb. save* a smoll fortune* on big impact sockets. 

 

now try getting decent imperial 6 sided impact sockets

 

steam fairs are good places to find old school tools and measuring stuff.

[SiC]

top tip

 

convert imperials to metric using the interweb. save* a smoll fortune* on big impact sockets.

 

now try getting decent imperial 6 sided impact sockets

 

steam fairs are good places to find old school tools and measuring stuff.

The price has gone up a fiver since I bought them, but these have been my go-to sockets so far and I've yet to smash one. Hasn't rounded off anything either. They don't mention a brand on the site, but they're Laser Tools branded. So not utter crap like Silverline.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p86722

[richardthestag]

The price has gone up a fiver since I bought them, but these have been my go-to sockets so far and I've yet to smash one. Hasn't rounded off anything either. They don't mention a brand on the site, but they're Laser Tools branded. So not utter crap like Silverline.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p86722

 

are they six sided sockets? 

 

I have many impact sets that are not and they cannot cope with the worst fixings that I might need the impact wrench for

[busmansholiday]

Having just caught up, I bet you're now worrying why the MGB oil pressure isn't what you'd like it to be.

[SiC]

Having just caught up, I bet you're now worrying why the MGB oil pressure isn't what you'd like it to be.

Well the garage did say my lower pressure on the MGB is very likely probably from a worn oil pump...

 

I've got thicker oil to go in the MGB (20w-60) but that'll probably be once this 1100 is back on the road. That way I can get under my MGB and change the pump + shells. Also got fresh gearbox oil and diff oil to go in. Going by the oil on the floor at the back, I do wonder how much oil is left in that diff!

[Squire_Dawson]

Isn't the club magazine for these called 'Idle Chatter' or something?

[Squire_Dawson]

You want Millers Classic Mini Oil in these engines. It contains additives for the shared gearbox and final drive. The difference compared to 'normal' oils is noticeable and I've been using it for years.

[SiC]

Isn't the club magazine for these called 'Idle Chatter' or something?

 

Yes!

[SiC]

IIRC the timing chain on early A series engines is tensioned by two large square-section O-rings which fit into grooves machined into the camshaft sprocket either side of the teeth. These protrude above the sprocket sides and the chain links run on them to tension* the chain.

A good idea in theory, much simpler and cheaper than a seperate spring-loaded tensioner.

Unfortunately in practice the timing chain runs in oil and the tensioner rings don't seem to be very oil resistant, so they go rock hard after only a few thousand miles and no longer apply any tension to the chain, hence TADTS.

Still worth replacing them while it is apart though, assuming they are still available.

I wonder if anyone does replacements made from some type of silicone which might last a bit longer.

Is there anything I should be checking or doing on that timing chain? I was expecting a tensioner of some sort. However as there is nothing, I'm not sure what I should check or do!

[Mally]

Ideally I'd fit a new chain, you are supposed to fit new sprockets as well but meh.

Try bending the chain sideways, that's how you test for wear.

I did have one break on a Xflow Ford in the outside lane of the M6 at 70 mph once.

[SiC]

Does the chain look in anyway worn? Should it be tight with no slack on those sprockets?

[Guest Hooli]

Try & lift the chain away from the sprocket halfway around it's run, if it lifts then the chain is worn.

[sharley17194]

its a simplex chain on that engine, they are a bit shit as the 1100 engines didnt have a tensioner like the later engines. Id fit a new chain as a min while you are at this stage or upgrade to a duplex chain so it wont stretch,.

[Mally]

But if it's going to be roffled later, just leave it and we'll play timing chain roulette.

[sharley17194]

They very rarely snap, just rattle their tits off and annoy the hell out of you.

 

But if it's going to be roffled later, just leave it and we'll play timing chain roulette.

[SiC]

Looks like this one has had the sprockets off at some point looking at the lock plates, so I'd hazard a guess that bits have been done on it recently. Looking at and poking it yesterday, it's not drum tight but then it's not really slack. I did read somewhere that turning the crank should immediately turn the cam. I'll check that later tonight.

 

I'm very tempted to leave as is. It's working and when running it last I didn't hear any rattle either. If it does start rattling in the future, it's easy to get to without having to tear lots of bits off the engine. Pulling the engine wasn't too difficult to do again in the future if needed anyway.

 

Yesterday night I got most of the old gasket and sealant off the faces. Gave them a very quick rub of 600grit paper too. Got the bottom end gasket set coming into Moss hopefully tomorrow, so I can pick that up then.

 

The bottom of the gearbox (and thus sump) looks to have a thin layer of sludge on the bottom. I'm going to pull out the oil pickup to check that is clean first. Might also leave a can of engine flush emptied neat into the bottom of it, to try clearing out that sludge?

 

As I will pour it directly in the bottom end and drain the engine before refilling & running, I guess it shouldn't have any negative affects usually associated with engine flush.

 

Busy most of the this weekend and next, so not a lot more will be done on this. Hopefully in the evenings I'll get this all buttoned back up again. Then another degrease, clean down and paint.

 

Probably paint it green. I know it's not a Morris but I like the look of them green. Original for this year apparently is black, but that's boring.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Looks like this one has had the sprockets off at some point looking at the lock plates, so I'd hazard a guess that bits have been done on it recently. Looking at and poking it yesterday, it's not drum tight but then it's not really slack. I did read somewhere that turning the crank should immediately turn the cam. I'll check that later tonight.

 

I'm very tempted to leave as is. It's working and when running it last I didn't hear any rattle either. If it does start rattling in the future, it's easy to get to without having to tear lots of bits off the engine. Pulling the engine wasn't too difficult to do again in the future if needed anyway.

 

Yesterday night I got most of the old gasket and sealant off the faces. Gave them a very quick rub of 600grit paper too. Got the bottom end gasket set coming into Moss hopefully tomorrow, so I can pick that up then.

 

The bottom of the gearbox (and thus sump) looks to have a thin layer of sludge on the bottom. I'm going to pull out the oil pickup to check that is clean first. Might also leave a can of engine flush emptied neat into the bottom of it, to try clearing out that sludge?

 

As I will pour it directly in the bottom end and drain the engine before refilling & running, I guess it shouldn't have any negative affects usually associated with engine flush.

 

Busy most of the this weekend and next, so not a lot more will be done on this. Hopefully in the evenings I'll get this all buttoned back up again. Then another degrease, clean down and paint.

 

Probably paint it green. I know it's not a Morris but I like the look of them green. Original for this year apparently is black, but that's boring.

 

 

 

IIrc, it's a gearbox strip down to get the strainer out as it sits underneath the laygear.  Leave the timing chain alone if it was quiet. Paraffin or degreaser in the box and power wash it out. 

[sharley17194]

NOOOOOOO do not wash the box out unless you plan to strip clean and rebuild, you will wash the shit into the bearings and leave them dry with grit in ready to go rusty in storage and grind nicely when you plan to next use it. Just wipe the sludge out the bottom and leave be. Honestly engine flush in an 1100 engine is just asking for trouble it washes the bearings out and never ends well.

 

 

IIrc, it's a gearbox strip down to get the strainer out as it sits underneath the laygear.  Leave the timing chain alone if it was quiet. Paraffin or degreaser in the box and power wash it out. 

[SiC]

NOOOOOOO do not wash the box out unless you plan to strip clean and rebuild, you will wash the shit into the bearings and leave them dry with grit in ready to go rusty in storage and grind nicely when you plan to next use it. Just wipe the sludge out the bottom and leave be. Honestly engine flush in an 1100 engine is just asking for trouble it washes the bearings out and never ends well.

So its not safe pour a can of engine flush directly into the bottom of the gearbox? Then drain it out of the sump plug?

 

I know my FiL killed his ado16 VP back in the 70s by putting engine flush when he did a change. Vowed never to use it again. However I don't intend to run the engine with it in.