Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[Eddie Honda]

Pump looks fooked to me.

 

I like a nice flat flywheel face when mounting a new clutch. For conventional clutches this is cheap and easy. I had a Maxi one done and it was three times the price. The E-series, like the A-series, has bits of clutch either side of the flywheel and thus if they ever get machined, they need three machine operations: The inside of the flywheel, the inside of the driven plate and the ends of the three legs of the driven plate. This is to keep the relationship between them the same.

 

Not something you need to worry about this time mind.

[somewhatfoolish]

That's the worst oil pump I've seen since I helped my brother swap the pump on his Scimitar; it had inhaled a loose strand from the strainer mesh and oil pressure had more or less disappeared. Totally creamcrackered and fit only for duty as a paperweight.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Take close ups of the idler gear. The scoring on the housing doesn’t look good tbh and I’d at least clean the thrust washers up with emery on a glass plate. The oil pump is standard Mini - they are all like that as the oil serves the engine and box. Depending on the idler gear state I’d replace the roller bearings at this stage. Rich from Minispares May lend/rent you the puller.

[SiC]

Should the idle gear have a thrust washer on the end? I can't remember there being one!

[Mally]

State of the pump makes me worry about the crank and shells.

I'd have hit the flywheel puller with a hammer earlier than the amount of weight you put on that strong arm

Good effort all round,

Beko needs to watch himself now, you will soon be Autoshite video king.

[SiC]

State of the pump makes me worry about the crank and shells.

 

I'm really glad someone brought that up! I've been thinking about that a fair bit and waiting for someone to ask/say. If grit and dirt has got into the pump, where else has it got to?

 

On how it got there in the first place, I believe that if you don't reassemble the oil filter correctly, oil can completely bypass the filter. It's now on a spin on filter, so won't happen now but I do wonder what damage has been done elsewhere. But then I'm not sure I want to know...

[Geep]

I'm really glad someone brought that up! I've been thinking about that a fair bit and waiting for someone to ask/say. If grit and dirt has got into the pump, where else has it got to?

 

On how it got there in the first place, I believe that if you don't reassemble the oil filter correctly, oil can completely bypass the filter. It's now on a spin on filter, so won't happen now but I do wonder what damage has been done elsewhere. But then I'm not sure I want to know...

 

Separating the engine and box is easy now you're this far in to it. Then pulling the caps off for a look is just another logical step. Thrust washers would also be worth checking whilst there as crankshaft end float can affect clutch clearing. 

 

It might seem like going further than intended but given the work involved getting to it all if it turns out to be noisy, clutch dragging or any other issue after it;s put back, you'd kick yourself for not checking. You now have reason to check, the oil pump, rather than it just being one of curiosity. You can check the gearbox as well and the strainer. It makes sense given findings so far. 

[SiC]

I'm trying to not think about what could be wrong or damaged in there. The engine was the only thing that supposed to have not needed any major work. Part of my brain is saying "This runs well and smoothly and it's an A-Series so can take abuse. You really don't want to know if it's bad or not. So just strap it all back together and go LALALALALA ITS ALL OK ". The other half is saying "Oooo, I wonder what it's like in there. Better fix as it'll be even more expensive otherwise.".

 

There isn't the budget for a full engine and gearbox rebuild on this. Well certainly not for paying someone else to do it...

[Guest Hooli]

I'd split them just to be nosey, as said you're almost there anyway.

 

Besides it's probably worth it to know the sump & pickup is clean.

[vulgalour]

If you look and it's all tickety boo, no problem!  If you don't look it's always going to be there as a worry every time it makes a noise or vibration or smell or is suspiciously reliable and quiet.  Having a look doesn't always mean spending money.  Given how nicely the engine ran I'm suprised at the state of the oil pump.

[SiC]

I don't think my enjoyment of pulling stuff apart could be stopped by only 12 or so bolts to split the two halves. Have I said about the smell of this job? Absolutely glorious! Reminds me of the smell of my model aircraft 2 stroke engines that have had a life time run on caster oil.

[purplebargeken]

Pull it apart and have a look, you're almost there as others have said. Worthwhile replacing whatever bits you can then you have little reason to fret over it if that is done. For a few quid the reduction in stress will be worthwhile.

[Mally]

Having a look doesn't always mean spending money.  

 

Never worked that way for me on an engine.

Ignorance is bliss.

[crapcarcollector]

I was really surprised to see the pick up in that oil pump. If it were me (and I’ve been there) I’d definitely be looking at the shells....

 

 

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[The Reverend Bluejeans]

A set of shells won't be much. The big end bolts can be reused, just fit new locking tabs if you want. I'd whip the centre main cap off as well. How much end float in the crank?

 

I seem to recall the pump gets into that state early one because it sucks oil straight up from the box and pushes it through the filter. So the oil always has tiny bits of gear teeth in it.

 

Don't forget a new O ring between the engine and box! If you forget that you have zero oil pressure.....

[egg]

Just done a six week catch-up on this thread. Staggering, you must be knackered most of the time!

 

Amazing stuff. Keep going...

 

(Also the advice other shiters are giving must be very helpful/motivating)

[DodgeRover]

What everybody else has said really, that oil pump is scrap IMO, if it ran with oil pressure then the mains are probably ok BUT while it's apart you may as well check them, shells aren't expensive if they need doing.

[SiC]

Tonight I first started on the getting the door captive plates sorted. I really need to get the door back on as the car keeps filling all my lovely new metal inside with water.

 

Got the broken drill bit out with plenty of force. Basically hit it with a screwdriver and hammer till it cracked into bits. The remaining screw I got out by using the screwdriver and hammer to twist it out.

 

Remains of the screw.

 

Mole grips were to hold the plate out.

 

Dug out my dad's old tap set that he gave to me.

 

Used an inappropriate tool to retap the plate.

 

Which seemed to work.

 

This is the top plate and I'm really pleased I've managed to do this, as it was not easily removable at all. The otherside I'm going to be even more careful when removing the door to not have this happen again.

 

Bottom plate I cut out. The area was pretty crusty and I need to replate this back up anyway.

 

Cut a bit too far really.

 

Plate came out easy enough.

 

 

This is why the screws didn't come out. Completely rusted this side.

 

The car is actually puking rust on this a-pillar.

 

Back side of the bolt I ground flat.

 

Then left this with liquid wrench on it to hopefully free it up a bit. Tomorrow I'll have a go trying to unscrewing it out.

[SiC]

Next up is what you all really were interested in reading. The engine.

 

I bought a new oil pump this evening at Moss. Ordered a full bottom end gasket kit too, so I can refresh all the gaskets as I pull the engine apart. Unfortunately the gasket set wasn't in stock, so I'll have to wait till Thursday before that's likely to be in.

 

Checked that the pin drive was roughly the same size. I have read they can be different and it's an easy way of killing your engine on first start.

 

Refitted with a new lock tab washer. I filled the pump heavily with oil to give it a good chance on first startup.

 

Most of which ended up all on the floor when I tipped the engine to flip it upside down!

 

After I wrestled it on the stand to not only invert it, but also push it back so I could get the lock pin back in. I'm glad I bought this adapter stand, as it's made this job 10x easier.

 

Undid all the bolts that I could see it being held on by and gave it a pull. All my might (which isn't a lot) didn't move it. Many taps with a mallet, I tried again. Up she came! Not as heavy as I imagined.

 

Now for some pictures inside.

 

Engine first.

 

Managed to damage the seal near the crank pulley. Not got an impact socket the right size for the crank pulley and I think I'll need to remove it. Anyone know the size of it? While I'm here and this is apart, I might as well inspect the timing chain.

 

Now the Gearbag.

 

Many gears. I turned these around and I couldn't see any damaged teeth nor obvious damage.

 

Again I had a peak at the diff to see that. Not great visibility, but it again looked alright.

 

Then took off the big end bearings on the pistons.

 

Piston nearest the crank pulley.

 

Next one along.

 

Retorqued them up to 36lb-ft ish. I think that's right?

 

That's as far as I got tonight. Getting late now, so I've called it today. Made a terrible mess in the garage. Bits of engine everywhere!

 

Need to cover this all up when I next do bodywork, so I don't get bits of grinding dust in the engine. Or have a stray spark hit inside. Both would be bad things to happen.

[SiC]

Forgot to say. I think everything looks alright in there? Is it worth checking the main bearings and other piston big ends too? Those two I had apart looked perfectly fine to my non-expert eyes. I don't really want to disturb bearing surfaces anymore than I really need to to be honest.

 

I'm going to guess/hope that the pump mushed up whatever was sucked up from the sump and basically took all the punishment for the team.

[SiC]

Just done a six week catch-up on this thread. Staggering, you must be knackered most of the time!

 

Amazing stuff. Keep going...

 

(Also the advice other shiters are giving must be very helpful/motivating)

I just keep plodding along really. Progress has slowed a bit as it's hard to do bodywork by torch light in the evenings. Also getting blimming freezing! However at least I've got the engine and wiring to do, which can be done in the relative comfort of the garage.

 

The advice and guidance I get from others on here is absolutely invaluable. Things would be going a lot slower and far more mess-ups without it.

[junkyarddog]

Vaseline or similar is what oil pumps should be primed with,stays put until you are ready to start it again.

 

 

Excellent progress btw,

 

Keep it up!

[Mally]

Wow!

You are David Vizard, AICMFP.

[SiC]

I seem to recall the pump gets into that state early one because it sucks oil straight up from the box and pushes it through the filter. So the oil always has tiny bits of gear teeth in it.

 

Just had a look at the oil flow circuit on the engine and you are right. A quick Google found this handy picture to explain to others.

 

Oil is picked up from the sump directly into the oil pump through a screen. This then feeds it to both the pressure relief valve and the banjo bolt. The banjo bolt goes to an external pipe which feeds the oil filter. Output of the oil filter feeds the rest of the engines oil circuits.

 

So essentially the oil pump is getting unfiltered oil except what's stopped by the screen. Hence any dirt, grit or metal in the bottom will be mushed into the pump.

 

This makes me feel 100x better that the rest of the engine is likely to be completely 100% fine and undamaged.

 

What are peoples thoughts on those big end bearings?

 

To me they look perfectly ok and normal. I'd rather not change them if not needed as they'll have bedded in nicely and any replacement ones may not be quite the same quality.

[DodgeRover]

Big end shells look fine to go again, in fact they look recently replaced, check all the mains though especially as you have that report of oil light flickering.

I would suspect they will be ok.

 

Set torques from the book.

[Eddie Honda]

Vaseline or similar is what oil pumps should be primed with,stays put until you are ready to start it again.

 

[3VOM]

Managed to damage the seal near the crank pulley. Not got an impact socket the right size for the crank pulley and I think I'll need to remove it. Anyone know the size of it? While I'm here and this is apart, I might as well inspect the timing chain.

Can you just measure it? If it is very large I have a feeling it is 1 3/8" AF but it is about 40 years since I worked on an A series in that depth.

[Eddie Honda]

1-5/16" it's the same size as the front hub nuts - I've got a least two here in the toolbox

[Mally]

Or a Seddon Atkinson wheel nut.

Ask me where I got my socket from.

[SiC]

Yeah it was 1" 5/16th. Found one of my dad's old sockets that fitted however its too big to fit on my ratchets.

 

Got this from Moss:

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/socket-1-5-16-af-1-2-square-drive-dmr19989.html

 

However as I'd half disassembled the engine, I had no way of locking the crank. The only way I could get it off is by using my impact wrench to get it off and that socket would last seconds and smash.

 

Hence I needed an impact socket. Hence I got a 34mm from Halfords. 1mm oversized by comparison and I was a bit worried but it didn't even mark the bolt.

 

Took the timing chain chest cover off.

 

Also the water pump. Doesn't actually seem too bad now I've got it off. I thought the bearings were graunchy but now it's off it seems ok. I think the graunchyness was the bolts on the pulley hitting the pump (too far in as the fan blades aren't on).