Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[Eddie Honda]

Need a 1-1/2" AF socket?

[SiC]

Yeah I think I do. It's the one socket missing from my tool collection. Shall I run the impact wrench on that, or will it a bit too violent?

 

I also need a flywheel puller. Any recommendations on one that isn't too expensive but also not made from Cadbury chocolate packaging?

[Noel Tidybeard]

you need this dash to be a real legend

 

or have added plah

 

[Eddie Honda]

A rattle gun will be fine, from memory it is torqued to 150 lb ft

 

Here is the one I got with my 1100. 1/2" drive 1-1/4" English Bedford socket welded to a 3/4" drive German Elora

 

 

The other big bastard you'll need is 1-5/16" for the front hub nuts.

 

 

Found my 6 pt Draper Expert impact one:

 

[SiC]

Struggling to find one. However 38mm = 1.496 inches. Close enough? Like 0.1mm out.

 

E.g. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192556724391

[PhilA]

Give Nuts N Bolts a call down in Weston, I can't remember where I would go for things in Bristol, but they may have those sizes in stock.

 

http://www.nuts-and-bolts.co.uk

 

Phil

[Eddie Honda]

Close enough? Like 0.1mm out.

That's absolutely nothing when you consider the tolerances on those huge sizes.

 

Quite often sets stop at 27mm in ½" drive, but you can get up to a max 1½ AF / 38mm in 1/2" drive before being pushed over to ¾" drive.

 

(e.g. I couldn't find any Draper ones that are that big anymore, but I could easily find King Dick ones.)

[BeEP]

Apologies for advice re rocker cover bolts.  I'm lucky enough to have an engine crane that is somewhat overspecced for removing an a-series and can go nice and high, so I can use a reasonable length of rope between crane and litting brackets.  I imagine that this reduces the sideload (as does having the lifting part of the brackets to the 'inside' of the bolts).  As I said I've done lots (I've been trying to guesstimate how many, and reckon it's 25 minimum) and haven't bent anything.

 

I had a look at my 1 1/2" socket to see if I could find the same one anywhere.  It's a Wipers WIS02; no, I haven't heard of them anywhere else either.  And nor has google.

[MorrisItalSLX]

I see you're taking the Australian approach to PPE there.

 

You need the steel capped versions

 

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

You removed the spring clip........was there a circular plate that fitted into the centre of the diaphragm? That's the bit the release bearing presses against.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/draper-n141a-flywheel-puller-for-vehicles-with/?da=1&TC=GS-040819862&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuvLDmrz92wIVzbHtCh0bhQAOEAQYAiABEgLHiPD_BwE

[Skut]

Do 1100s have the same displacer scarcity problems as other rubber and gas sprung BL chod.  Doesn't seem to get mentioned nearly as much as it does on Princess threads.

[BeEP]

You removed the spring clip........was there a circular plate that fitted into the centre of the diaphragm? That's the bit the release bearing presses against.

 

I wondered that as well; the clutch certainly wouldn't work without it!  I've never removed that clip/plate from a diaphragm; in fact I don't think I've ever had an a-series diaphragm fail.

[Eddie Honda]

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/draper-n141a-flywheel-puller-for-vehicles-with/?da=1&TC=GS-040819862&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuvLDmrz92wIVzbHtCh0bhQAOEAQYAiABEgLHiPD_BwE

*goes off to find his Churchill 18G304 that he hasn't seen for 25 years and has no idea where it is.*

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

I last used one in 1991. 

[SiC]

Yeah there was a circular plate on top of the metal housing. This was the spring clip that held it in.

[SiC]

Given that it looks like the clutch has been replaced previously, I'm wondering if the clutch plate itself is going to be in good condition. With the problem being that the assembly has siezed itself together on the shaft? I.e. just needs remove the clutch+flywheel assembly and brake off it being siezed up.

[SiC]

Apologies for advice re rocker cover bolts. I'm lucky enough to have an engine crane that is somewhat overspecced for removing an a-series and can go nice and high, so I can use a reasonable length of rope between crane and litting brackets. I imagine that this reduces the sideload (as does having the lifting part of the brackets to the 'inside' of the bolts). As I said I've done lots (I've been trying to guesstimate how many, and reckon it's 25 minimum) and haven't bent anything.

 

I had a look at my 1 1/2" socket to see if I could find the same one anywhere. It's a Wipers WIS02; no, I haven't heard of them anywhere else either. And nor has google.

Don't worry about the rocker bolts. I took in the advice of everyone on here and I had a lot of dilemmas when trying to decide which to use and was on the fence. To confuse things Haynes showed both being used on their engine removal pictures. First picture when setting up on the cylinder head bolts. Second picture when they're actually lifting it using the rocker bolts.

 

I decided on the rocker bolts on the basis that if either bent, the head could at least still be removed if I used the rocker bolts. The problem I think was that we simply had too much side loading. Next time we'll get some longer chain too.

 

Can they easily be replaced? Are they studs into the head? They're not massively bent anymore as we turned the brackets around and lifting it a bit to bend them roughly back in the middle! Rocket cover has a small dent in it too. However with the bolts on normally, you can't really tell.

[Geep]

Apologies for advice re rocker cover bolts.  I'm lucky enough to have an engine crane that is somewhat overspecced for removing an a-series and can go nice and high, so I can use a reasonable length of rope between crane and litting brackets.  I imagine that this reduces the sideload (as does having the lifting part of the brackets to the 'inside' of the bolts).  As I said I've done lots (I've been trying to guesstimate how many, and reckon it's 25 minimum) and haven't bent anything.

 

I had a look at my 1 1/2" socket to see if I could find the same one anywhere.  It's a Wipers WIS02; no, I haven't heard of them anywhere else either.  And nor has google.

 

Looking at SIC's first attempt, it was the leveller that caused the problem. Chain fixing points that far apart close to lifting points will induce huge side loads as it tries to move the chains vertical for a lift. (or as near to) Second attempt shows the lifting chains to be nearer vertical heading up to the lifting hook.

 

Good work SIC, the flywheel normally comes off reasonably easily. I used to have a genuine puller which was just a thick round plate with a large bolt through middle and holes drilled all around the edge to suit different applications. Was about 10mm thick or so. A tap to the side of puller helped it on it's way. You don't need anything massive or complex to remove it but be ready to catch it as it comes off. 

[Guest Hooli]

Are you splitting the engine & box to look inside? it's fun* lining those up to get it back together afterwards, probably easier with your brackets though as I did it with bits of rope wrapped around things.

[SiC]

Looking at SIC's first attempt, it was the leveller that caused the problem. Chain fixing points that far apart close to lifting points will induce huge side loads as it tries to move the chains vertical for a lift. (or as near to) Second attempt shows the lifting chains to be nearer vertical heading up to the lifting hook.

Yes exactly that. We realised this as we started pulling up with it and why we ditched it. I think it wouldn't have been so bad if we had longer chains or could move the leveler fixing points.

 

The second attempt was to try and get the lifting point as close to the middle as possible. Also why we chose those head studs, rather than the outer ones the service manual/Haynes says.

 

I think with a longer chain it wouldn't have been so bad. Getting it back in will be fun though...

 

For that, I'll remove all the major engine ancillaries first though. Not only lightens it up but also reduces things to get bashed into.

 

Are you splitting the engine & box to look inside? it's fun* lining those up to get it back together afterwards, probably easier with your brackets though as I did it with bits of rope wrapped around things.

No, not intending to. I was thinking originally of replacing the big end shells. However the engine runs so sweetly and willingly, it's probably going to be pointless and unnecessary. I also thought about renewing the gasket between them, but I can't see any leaks from that area.

 

The major tasks are going to be cleaning it down, repainting the block and flywheel. I'm still debating whether to replace the oil pump while I'm here. Not a terribly expensive part, but given oil light flickering before it's possibly worth changing it proactively as I'm right by it.

 

I can't remember if these have a timing chain tensioner? If so, worth changing while I have nice easy access?

[Mally]

If the oil light flashes i'd take the box off and check the shells.

Regarding missing bolts in clutch cover plate, think everyone used to leave out the one at about 20 mins to.

Its a pain to remove with engine in. Maybe thats just on a Mini? It's a while ago.

Otherwise you will need to helicoil any stripped threads.

[SiC]

The oil light flickering is a funny one and has several parts to the story. Cats saw it when he had on the road. He changed the oil pressure switch but never got a chance to restart after doing so. Vulgalour never saw it flicker when he was running up the engine and I've not ran it long enough.

 

The other part to the story is the wiring. On the dash there is two oil lights. One is oil pressure, the other is the oil filter differential pressure. Neither is marked which is which. The last tells the driver that the filter isn't filtering. It was deleted on the MK3.

 

However on this car, a light is fitted to that position. This light is wired in parallel with the alternator light. I've never seen the alternator light show up, but I've seen the one in the oil filter position light (see videos of starting).

 

So it could be that the oil light flickering is actually because the alternator isn't charging properly.

[Eddie Honda]

but be ready to catch it as it comes off.

Isn't that what leaving the crank nut in a few turns is for?

[captain_70s]

I had a flickering oil light in the 1300, replaced the sender, problem solved. Had the same thing in my 1850 as well.

 

If you're starting to get bottom end wear you'd be able to hear it by the time the oil light starts flickering in normal running situations.

[Geep]

Isn't that what leaving the crank nut in a few turns is for?

 

It's a bolt, not a nut and leaving it on means depending on the threads holding a loose bolt. The main dealer tool had a bolt in centre you did up so putting pressure on a loose bolt would damage the threads in the crank. 

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

The problem will be shitty rusty splines in the primary gear. I would remove it but you'll need a new crank seal so extra £££. Clean the splines with emery and an old toothbrush and refit with just a hint of grease to the plate slides on the splines nicely. 

[SiC]

The problem will be shitty rusty splines in the primary gear. I would remove it but you'll need a new crank seal so extra £££. Clean the splines with emery and an old toothbrush and refit with just a hint of grease to the plate slides on the splines nicely.

Is the crank seal this?

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/oil-seal-rear-crankshaft-13h2934.html

 

If so, not too bad a price to be honest. As Moss stock it, I can just wander down one lunch time when at work to pick it up - saving postage.

[Guest Hooli]

If you suspect oil pressure issues I'd be tempted to split the engine & box just to check the pickup strainer. You don't have to do 'owt else while you're in there.

[SiC]

If I can get it on the engine stand easily, I'll split the box. Once the clutch is done, the engine will be a side project when I've gotten bored of welding!