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Wobstang II


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Posted

Seeing it move and now from all angles, I think that matt black paintwork rather suits it, too...

Posted

It's great to see this in motion and Sam not smashing your windshield with the hood.  Turn signal flash rate seems really fast, does it slow down when the car is running?  I think it was PhilA that told me old style bimetallic relays can affect flash rate depending on engine speed, I might have remember the wrong person there.

Posted

I think you've done very well there Jo, a few electrical gremlins to iron out and you've got a rust free, breathed on, yet practical slab of '70s nostalgia.

Verdict- Solid Gold Californian shite :)

  • Like 3
Posted

Nope, that's fast. Spec here is a flash between once and twice a second, that's about 4 a second.

 

Older bimetallic flashers tend to do a 2-on, 1-off rather than an even flash but I will say I do like modern electronic ones because reliable.

 

Phil

Posted

I've just had a read through all this. As already said Jo, perseverance is the key. Don't get too disheartened. Lots of knowledge on here and folk who will help you out. Looks a decent motor overall and sounds ace. Nibblet is also a pipe smoker! That's two of us!

  • Like 2
Posted

Yeah, there's still a few pipists about, a cheap way of imbibing tobacco as well as stylish...and I do drive a Volvo :)

I'm now vicariously living some kinda warped shiteist's American dream through the prism of a shonky 1975 Mustang, whatever gets you through the day...

Posted

Do.

 

An.

 

Burnout.

 

 

Pls.

 

 

 

Well done everyone involved. Lovely to see it moving.

Posted

Theres a new Bimetallic flasher on route do you think I should replace it for an electronic instead? I guess as long as it the same type 2 pin job an electronic one will work? Do love the nostalgic sound the BiMet ones make though ;)

New one should fix it well enough. Mine just wouldn't flash with the engine off. Electronic one cured it but you may not have that problem.

 

Phil

Posted

Rear lights look like you've got a short in the left hand brake bulb (saggy filament) but it could also just be a bad ground.

 

Phil

Posted

If the new flasher unit fails to slow them down, I seem to remember you can slow indicators by adding an extra bulb or resistor to the circuit.

Or higher wattage bulbs maybe? 

Posted

Well well well, it’s running and moving. Pretty damn well too! I bet that’s given your mojo a bit of a boost!?

 

Looking absolutely brilliant so far Jo, and that sound! Glorious V8 music.

Hats off to Nibblet too, top geezer for helping you out.

That was funny in the vid of Sam driving too, I thought you were going lose your windshield! Naughty naughty!

 

You’ll have this on the road soon. Keep it up!

  • Like 2
Posted

Extra points for Nibblets pipe.

 

Agreed, glad someone is keeping the deathly fine habit alive!

 

Well done all, its a bloody relief to see it move, and I don't even own it...

  • Like 2
Posted

^^^ Bloody hell, I've got a twin.

 

Though I think my pipe has a longer stem and shorter mouthpiece. And I ran the clippers through my beard on Sunday.

 

Pic to appear on the Embarrassing Selfie thread later, if I can remember.

 

ON TOPIC:

 

Absolutely delighted to see the Shitestang moving under its own power, finally! I've been following the twists and turns of this thread and it's brilliant to see it all come together.

 

This place, etc etc...

 

 

Posted

Ive got this briar,a rustic briar and a straight stem and a bent stem corn cob! Beard is growing until I can braid it I think! Anyway back on track!

  • Like 2
Posted

If the new flasher unit fails to slow them down, I seem to remember you can slow indicators by adding an extra bulb or resistor to the circuit.

Or higher wattage bulbs maybe?

 

Other way round. Too much wattage on a bi-metallic flasher will make it blink fast. The extra current drawn by the bulbs makes it heat up more and so you end up with a rapid blink, with the length of time the lights are lit with each flash getting shorter. They end up looking like roadwork flashing lights like they stick on cones...

 

Phil

Posted

By 'eck thats a little 'un.......I always thought of the Mustangs as being huge.....that's almost European in size!!!

 

I'd invest in some Orange paint or them orange bulbs as indicators are a bit south African ( too white)..

Posted

Other way round. Too much wattage on a bi-metallic flasher will make it blink fast. The extra current drawn by the bulbs makes it heat up more and so you end up with a rapid blink, with the length of time the lights are lit with each flash getting shorter. They end up looking like roadwork flashing lights like they stick on cones...

 

Phil

 

Yes I wondered which way before I wrote it.

Guessed wrong. 

Posted

Advice needed on this one?

So this is the wiper Diagram31711110_2020308668296164_58661461763188

On the Diagram c310 is the large connector at the end of the wiper washer stalk

I have now located c311 which is the second connector right at the wiper motor31658042_2020308818296149_14423603041670

This is the way I see it,please tell me if im wrong?

Red wire is 12v in,Blue/Orange Fast Wipe.White Slow Wipe and Black Pink Ground??

Red isnt connected to White or Blue/Orange until you flick the switch so if I put negative to Black/Pink and Positive to either Blue/Orange or White at the motor it should run either fast or slow?

Is it that simple?

If you just want to test it, ground the body of the motor to negative (already in the car that's good) and then put 12v to white. Motor should run slowly. Unhook white and connect blue/orange and it should run fast. That'll test if the motor windings are good.

 

The other wiring is to cause the motor to run at slow speed until it finishes it's cycle on a cam inside (so the wipers self park instead of stopping where they are when you turn the switch off.

 

At C311, unplug the wiper motor, black wire to body, red wire to red you should have 12v with either position 1 or ignition on. Black/pink is the back feed from the motor to the wiper switch on the column that should only have power on it when the wipers are not in their "resting" position.

 

Phil

  • Like 2
Posted

I don't understand a word of that but I like it, I think!

Posted

Pipe thread now required....

  • Like 3
Posted

I dont actually have a black wire just the Black/Pink it being grounded to the body only helps I guess if the car battery is being used I was planning on using a Jump Pack so im only starting the wiper motor ;)

So are you saying take a wire to the motor body and power to Blue/Orange and white to check operation and speeds?

Correct. That will not test the self park function but it will test the motor and gearbox.

 

Phil

Posted

Ive got this briar,a rustic briar and a straight stem and a bent stem corn cob! Beard is growing until I can braid it I think! Anyway back on track!

I get about half a dozen briars at a tome from Frog ebay, cheap n chearful as I get through them fairly quickly as I tend to stuff em in my back pocket when I'm working and then sit on em and snap em!

Posted

I want a falcon metal straight stem with billiard bowl. Anyway pipe thread needed!! Sorry joloke!

Posted

Sorry again Jo! Awaiting more info on the Mustang. Sounds lovely in the video.

Posted

I dont actually have a black wire just the Black/Pink it being grounded to the body only helps I guess if the car battery is being used I was planning on using a Jump Pack so im only starting the wiper motor ;)

So are you saying take a wire to the motor body and power to Blue/Orange and white to check operation and speeds?

Sorry, I didn't explain better. Black wire of multimeter to body, red wire of multimeter to red wire on plug C311.

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