MGB GT - Mission finally complete! Phew.

[SiC]

Mould can be cleaned up with a lot of elbow grease and I'll probably end-up rebuilding the seats on whatever I get, so not overly worried about that. However I am seriously concerned about those sills, especially patches slapped straight over the top of sections.

[Rusty_Rocket]

EVERY single MGB under £6/7k is going to either be rusty, previously rusty, or going to need serious rectification for another MoT. Just buy the one you like the most and accept it's going to cost you in the future. Sure, some will be better than others, but as said, these BL bodgeups were needing welding at 7yrs old- 40 years later, they aren't any better! 

Don't worry about MoT history like you would a modern, go and view and take the car on face value. For a £3k budget, I'd say you're doing well to get a shiny one with relatively intact undercrackers!

[dieselassist]

Some pics attached of the one I had, n did the rust repair on, when my uncle rescued off the front avenue off an old workmate of his... I was tasked with doing its sills/inner wings 'one winter'; the rest of the work - fitting a new engine n box, wiring and a respray etc, was dropped on the lap of a small garage 'father n son team' - resto experts (quick turn around of two weeks!!), drinking friends of his- all of which they made a total mess of...

 

...once it was 'done' it the end result was  the opposite  to what you want in one of these-  solid n rust free, but with a myriad of other 'issues' -a leaking head gasket, very, very poor wiring n general mechanical sloppiness, like poor brakes....My uncle soon fell out of love with its quirks; Ray Charles respray n failure to both proceed n stop...

 

I 'fell into' the car in a complicated barter exchange with my uncle, but quickly fell out love soon after (half a page on a calendar) n sold it very cheap for a solid MGB... the buyer was an older fella, who, after doing the deal announced that the overdrive box was worth more than I was asking for the whole car, but I was glad to see the back of it; but even that was painful as a week later on returning to pi up the car, the buyer forgot to bring its keys, (which I had slapped into his palm a week before after a brief haggle), n we; myself n my brother had to use my 3 tonne jack to manoeuvre it out outta its sulking corner, n onto the trailor, while the buyers know it all mate mate spent the entire time gassing on the phone...

 

when I had it,  I never drove, BTW - my brother did, n christened it the 'loca'unmotive' due to its lack of power, lack of proper brakes- resorting to handbrake at time, n the immence steam it spewed out on a short run...

 

They are made of thick metal, tho, n one of the easier cars to show the sparkly stick to; that's about all I can say in their defense....

[SiC]

Wow! That wiring looks ... shocking.

 

Having a good read on these cars, it seems a lot of the FTPs involve bodged/worn out wiring, weak fuel pumps and parts only replaced as they expire (e.g. if clutch slave is bad, its best to replace it and the master + pipework). The thought of a re-wire on one of these something I'd really would love to do! Yes I'm different...

[dieselassist]

I think a lot of them are 'products' of the fevered 'classics as investments' folly of the 90's; they were massively bigged up in the 90's by the Likes of Practical classics, n a whole industry grew up around them; the one above had a completely new interior fitted in 90s (700 old irish pounds- found the receipt when I was doing the welding) it also had a new boot floor fitted before I got to it; done to a very good standard....

 

anyways my take on them, is that the price of 'doing them up' never really reflects their 'believed' value... n they never have/will - its why you see them so half arsed in terms of condition...

 

...n they aren't a great drive, very cramped, n nothing feels very car like; you sorta drive them like you are sat on a flat surface, like a ' near completely drunk sat down outside the pub/ in the carpark singing at 1am/ unresponsive to voices of reasons to achive bi'pedal/upright position' - your stuck... I couldn't master that position when sober/in a driving scenario or had the the necessary corordination to drive the thing when in that position, but my brother managed it; I had to 'man the lever of the handbrake, when he gave the command, hence the name he gave it... Im 6'4, n hes 6ft ...

 

 

 

...maybe they are an acquired taste...

[alcyonecorporation]

BRITISH CLASSICS ARE BEST CLASSICS 

[Tamworthbay]

I think a lot of them are 'products' of the fevered 'classics as investments' folly of the 90's; they were massively bigged up in the 90's by the Likes of Practical classics, n a whole industry grew up around them; the one above had a completely new interior fitted in 90s (700 old irish pounds- found the receipt when I was doing the welding) it also had a new boot floor fitted before I got to it; done to a very good standard....

 

anyways my take on them, is that the price of 'doing them up' never really reflects their 'believed' value... n they never have/will - its why you see them so half arsed in terms of condition...

 

...n they aren't a great drive, very cramped, n nothing feels very car like; you sorta drive them like you are sat on a flat surface, like a ' near completely drunk sat down outside the pub/ in the carpark singing at 1am/ unresponsive to voices of reasons to achive bi'pedal/upright position' - your stuck... I couldn't master that position when sober/in a driving scenario or had the the necessary corordination to drive the thing when in that position, but my brother managed it; I had to 'man the lever of the handbrake, when he gave the command, hence the name he gave it... Im 6'4, n hes 6ft ...

 

 

 

...maybe they are an acquired taste...

It's different cars for different people, the arse on the floor, head at bottom of window seating position was the thing I loved most about mine. I like to be in a car not on it. I hate elevated seating positions with a passion and always drop the seat as low as it will go when I buy a different car. Some people prefer the modern sat on seating positions but they make me feel like I am in a van.

[Mally]

When removing a door to sort sills/castle rails, it's preferable to tack some sort of box section across the hole.

Then the door may fit back on later.

Have read that it should be possible to insert a small allan key up the drain hole slots in the bottom of the sills.

If you can spin the allan key the centre section shown in the photo is corroded.

Never dared try it on mine.

[SiC]

This is local and suitably grotty. MOT history looks good though. Also has a sunroof which is big plus points with the other half in the summer.

 

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201706136414812?atmobcid=soc3

 

Screenshot_20170704-230147.jpg

Just got a message back from this guy that it's still available. I'll try and see it this weekend.

 

It is a bit cheap for a chrome bumper and a short MOT - which I guess might be the reason. 8yrs on after a big welding job might be wearing off. Or hopefully the short MOT is because the seller doesn't want to put it in an MOT until it's within the 28day before it expires.

 

As its local, one possibility could be to send it to my local garage for a check over/pre-MOT check.

[Guest Hooli]

Wow! That wiring looks ... shocking.

 

Having a good read on these cars, it seems a lot of the FTPs involve bodged/worn out wiring, weak fuel pumps and parts only replaced as they expire (e.g. if clutch slave is bad, its best to replace it and the master + pipework). The thought of a re-wire on one of these something I'd really would love to do! Yes I'm different...

 

*nods*

 

Wiring is something most old car owners think they can do but can't & the fuel pumps have points in so have failed since the cars were new. You can get solid state fuel pumps to solve that these days.

[Mally]

Just got a message back from this guy that it's still available. I'll try and see it this weekend.

 

It is a bit cheap for a chrome bumper and a short MOT - which I guess might be the reason. 8yrs on after a big welding job might be wearing off. Or hopefully the short MOT is because the seller doesn't want to put it in an MOT until it's within the 28day before it expires.

 

As its local, one possibility could be to send it to my local garage for a check over/pre-MOT check.

 

Good idea, ask him if you can get it tested then adjust the price accordingly.

Don't take it where the first one was done though.

[SiC]

Some bed time reading.

 

For the rubber bumper, so doubt I'll end up buying a chrome bumper car!

[richardthestag]

crumbs some of you lot

 

40 year old british car has filla in it, I mean like wtaf

 

A cheap runner with an Mot is exactly that, if it wasnt it would be an expensive runner with an MoT.

 

To say that a cheap MG with wob where it shouldnt be but a legit MoT or saggy tatty seats should be avoided, when all the lad wants to do is have a laugh with it and leave it outside, seems against the core principle of autoshite. If it was the shonkiest old jag we would be applauding the size of his sack

 

Me I would have probably waved 1500 sheets in the sellers face for that original orange motor. it is what it is etc. Then used it for the whole summer armed with nowt but a smile and a recovery card. then before the summer was out steam clean all the shit off the underside and assess the situation, fix it over the winter and then sell it on if needed

[406V6]

I find it quite ironic reading this thread that SiC wants to buy a piece of rusty B-series engined Pininfarina-tweaked BL chod and everyone says they're pretty rubbish and shite to drive. Meanwhile on another recent Autoshite thread about some rusty B-series engined Pininfarina-tweaked BL chod the general consensus is that they're underrated by the public, not quite so bad for rust and great to drive. Based on this I think you should buy a land crab !

[Felly Magic]

The thing is, we all can see from a mile off that the beige one won't last as far as the winter, patch on top of patch, cheapo leaky sunroof that will have nicely rotted the floor out, the severe case of damp and mould which again will have rotted it from the inside out, it isn't even a £500 car, it's something that should be gutted for what few savable parts there are, then sent over the bridge. 

[Dirk Diggler]

https://www.donedeal.ie/vintagecars-for-sale/mg/15859794

 

This looks terrifying; I loved the orange one with the chin spoiler and think this would look great with one too

 

Never thought I'd hear myself say that about a rubberised B

[SiC]

Saw the one from autotrader. Chap was 100% decent. If anything, a bit like the guy I bought the Smart off, he was too honest to make a good salesman. A little bit older than me, but not too much.

 

He'd owned it since 2005. Bought it needing repair. He learnt to weld off his brother and they both put all new sills in. When he did, he filled the section with rust prevention.

 

It's been on the road since 2009. Went under cover from around 2011, until the last few years when he bought a house - which had no parking.

 

He's selling because he hardly uses it and is focusing on renovating his house. Commuting wise he catches the train weekdays. His main daily driver is now a Porsche Cayman.

 

Car needs bits doing for sure. Engine ran and started fine from cold - didn't need choke. Didn't test drive. Tyres were put on in 2008/2009, so really need changing. Seat obviously needs work. Heater control is stiff and apparently doesn't really work - but then it's a summer car.

 

He refurbished the rear suspension when it was redone. Front wasn't worked on. Going by advisories, it probably could do with a refresh. He has polybushes which he said he could give as part of the sale.

 

Rear bumper dented in. He's not sure how it happened. Also really annoyed as apparently was difficult to get right. A garage did work putting a new exhaust on and it came back like it after. They denyed it.

 

It's had a repaint, but some of its flaking off now. Also some big chunks are coming off around those rear windows. I've tried to take pictures.

 

MOT was short. He didn't realise until he got the paperwork out to look. I didn't mention about him getting it done, as could be a handy negotiation point.

 

Underside looks in pretty good nick. Again I tried to take pictures. There is surface rust, but nothing awful that I could see. Sills looked in good nick. The inner on the drivers at the front crunched a bit when squeezed. So possibly needs a little bit of work there.

 

Is there any negotiation available on the price? Yes the answer was. Said without hesitation. He said he was thinking of reducing it soon anyway. I suspect maybe I was the first to view it?

 

I need to catch-up with Phil in a bit to see how he got on with the beige one.

 

Oh and I made the mistake of driving the Smart over. I did think about what people said here as I was driving it. Plan probably would be I'd get rid of the Laguna first (any interest on here for it?). I'd then have it's replacement (parents Audi) in late September time when the insurance for the Smart is up and sell that then.

[SiC]

These are the worst bits I could see.

[SiC]

Not sure how this could be repaired? The bit coming off looks quite thick. No hole underneath. Filler then paint?

 

[Tamworthbay]

That will be a project in a years time, better ones out there to look at.

[Mally]

Similar condition to mine, they all do that sir.

Most have something showing in those areas unless recently done, but it still comes back in a couple of years.

Had visions of repairing mine with a bit of filler but never did.

Back skirt may pull out a little.

If you like it, try the MOT route.

Should be fine at £2000 with MOT.

[richardthestag]

orange one looked better but then I have seen neither in the steel and you have

[SiC]

I think the one I saw is more what you'd call honest. Go over with a mechanical polisher and heavy underseal and it may be similar.

[Guest Hooli]

I like that, the description makes it sound an honest car not tarted up for sale too.

[SiC]

He even offered to get his jack and stands out if I wanted to have a proper look underneath.

[Guest Hooli]

Can't fault that.

[TripleRich]

That will need work eventually particularly where the A post is rotting out the scuttle and wing.  However it’s not caked in underseal and the panel fit is better.  The lack of overspray on the rubbers and chrome indicates a better paintjob.  Having some history from the owner on work done/ things needing doing is also a plus.

 

 

I'd take him up on a look underneath.  Look for plates & patches, dents, holes, cracks, and tigerseal.  If you can't find any of that it should provide you with enjoyment for a few years before needing any major work.

 

[dieselassist]

When removing a door to sort sills/castle rails, it's preferable to tack some sort of box section across the hole.

Then the door may fit back on later.

 

 

...I usually do brace the door gaps, but the castle rails on the MG above were actually good on the car, after grinding back the remnants of the inner sill, which was a surprise, as the car had sat outside for so long....

 

Im not condemning or dissing these cars; just giving my 'experience' of briefly owning one- I used to buy classic car mags back when I was young n loved the looks n styling of the Mgb; everything looked so well proportioned, always looking like a great grand tourer... living with a classic/ n driving one, or looking forward to some down time to 'enjoy' driving one, I spose is also a big thing, the older you get...

 

I did consider heavily modding the car with a different pedal box, different seats etc etc - but Ive lots of projects, n that would have taken years...

 

Its up to SiC whatever he decides, as others have said maybe a long test drive in one might help make the decision...

[Mally]

 

That will need work eventually particularly where the A post is rotting out the scuttle and wing.  However it’s not caked in underseal and the panel fit is better.  The lack of overspray on the rubbers and chrome indicates a better paintjob.  Having some history from the owner on work done/ things needing doing is also a plus.

 

 

I'd take him up on a look underneath.  Look for plates & patches, dents, holes, cracks, and tigerseal.  If you can't find any of that it should provide you with enjoyment for a few years before needing any major work.

 

 

When it does need welding I know a man who can. ^

[phil_lihp]

I went and saw the mustard-coloured one this afternoon.  Seller was a thoroughly nice bloke, the location was his friend's Alfa Romeo restoration business, they're both into obscure Italian stuff and I got a tour of the facilities thrown in - a slightly crusty A-reg Guiletta, a completely rotten shell of a Strada Abarth and a couple of very nice GTVs plus a racing 155 and a pair of dusty but solid 75s were just a few of the cars they had there.

 

Anyway, distractions aside, I'd sum the car up as straight, solid, honest and un-messed with,  Brilliant stacks of history all the way back to '76 where the original owner logged every journey, fill-up and maintenance job in a little book which covers years of the car's life.  Paintwork looks mostly original and very decent in the most part, no sign of the sunroof leaking and the boot floor looked solid.

 

Not so good: it doesn't currently run, or at least hasn't been tried owing to stale fuel, it's free, complete and looks like it'd have a chance of starting though with some fresh fuel down its neck.  There's the usual evidence of many oil leaks around the engine and gearbox of course, plus the fuel pipes around the tank look wet.  The brake pedal goes to the floor, as does the bottom of the driver's seat which is completely shagged and the tyres look ancient.  There's some superficial rust starting around the rear arches and bootlid but it looks cosmetic and saveable, the NSR wing is just starting to go at the corner of the windows, chrome is scabby on the bumpers and there's plenty of welding patches and underseal underneath.  

 

That said, the sills appear to be made of nothing but metal, the underside resisted the screwdriver test where I could poke it although the area around the driver's seat might need additional scrutiny, it looked like it'd seen some patching before and the underseal makes it tricky to be certain - there's probably a bit of work needed but I would guess not a lot.  To my untrained eye though, all the welding looked neat and very solid with no attempts made to hide it under filler.

 

Have a couple of pictures - I've sent about a thousand of them over to SiC for his perusal.