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1975 Ford Granada Coupe - Lots & lots of tinkering


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Posted

Just not convinced it necessarily shows off the lines of the facelifted Mk1 Coupé rear flank to best effect.

 

You're right, it has to extend too far down the rear quarter and looks awkward. The contemporary XA/XB/XC Falcon coupe was similar in that regard.

  • Like 2
Posted

My Citroen DS has a vinyl roof. There is no rust on the roof panel because it is grp (glass fibre). There is however serious corrosion on the cant rail above the windscreen so the roof is going to have top come off to sort it out. It is in a queue and should be done in spring 2019.

Posted

My Capri had a vinyl roof when I bought it in 2001, a non original item fitted by a blind halfwit! It had caused rot in both rear quarter panels in a place that would never rot otherwise and it'd rotted the seam inside the boot lid shut area where the roof skin welds to the frame.

I prefer cars without them tbh for the most part but on my Capri it's a non original thing so was an easy choice for me not to have one this time.

 

The Mercury has one though, dark green vinyl, which does really suit the car and the era it was built. It's in decent nik and hasn't rusted. Mainly due to the car being from a decent country not a wet cold shit hole like ours!

It wouldn't look right without one I don't think.

Posted

^^ Barring the custom decals, that Saffer V8 is rather lovely - and out of interest, does anyone know whether all UK Coupés came with the vinyl roof fitted as standard? I've never seen one without in the metal (though admittedly, I've seen very few). Some European pics show cars without a vinyl roof: although some appear to have been de-vinyl'd (like the brown 3.0 Ghia below) I'm wondering whether others were lower-spec cars not offered in the UK, where Ford were keen to stress the luxury element of the cars.

 

 

All Granada coupes in the UK were 3.0 Ghia models, and all Mark 1 Granada Ghias had a vinyl roof.

 

In Europe where lower trim level coupes were available, there probably would have been coupes without the vinyl.

Posted

Its one of these cars that probably does look better with a painted roof, but like the XJ Jag Coupes were so seldom seen without that they look a bit odd.   Whether that would be enough to make me create a rust-trap on this particular work of the welder's art is another matter....

Posted

All Granada coupes in the UK were 3.0 Ghia models, and all Mark 1 Granada Ghias had a vinyl roof.

 

In Europe where lower trim level coupes were available, there probably would have been coupes without the vinyl.

Makes sense. Thanks for clearing that one up!

Posted

Its one of these cars that probably does look better with a painted roof, but like the XJ Jag Coupes were so seldom seen without that they look a bit odd.   Whether that would be enough to make me create a rust-trap on this particular work of the welder's art is another matter....

 

I thought all XJCs had vinyl rooves beause they were so floppy the paint Jaguar used would crack.

Posted

I thought all XJCs had vinyl rooves beause they were so floppy the paint Jaguar used would crack.

They did all have a vinyl roof, although I don't know if that's the reason!

Posted

Mine had a vinyl roof originally as its a GL.  They were basically a standard item on a Granada of GL trim or higher.  I'll be fitting a new one to keep the car to original spec.  In a bright colour the coupe can be a bit too much without the vinyl to break things up. 

Agreed the trim is fussy especially on a Ghia with all the fussy ghia bits on the rest of the car.  Matter of taste and colour combination I think.  Mine has a black interior so the black roof and bright red paint should work.  It also had the C pillar vents which make things look better.

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Posted

Lovely bit of fabrication there Rich!

Feck Me, he makes it look so easy, MM perfect fabrication, welded with no distortion and sanded to invisibility.

 

I would love to work in a shop with all the gear. I can remember watching a guy they called 'Dewhurst' fitting a new sill to an Escort MK1 back in the early 80's. A fookin lump hammer to cave the old sill in, a cover sill tacked over the top lashed up with aerosol primer and some shite cheap underseal, good to go guv innit...........

 

The Granada and Mex are jaw dropping 'proper like'. There is a guy on Retro Rides that did a Victor to the same standard, pure class.

  • Like 2
Posted

Feck Me, he makes it look so easy, MM perfect fabrication, welded with no distortion and sanded to invisibility.

 

I would love to work in a shop with all the gear. I can remember watching a guy they called 'Dewhurst' fitting a new sill to an Escort MK1 back in the early 80's. A fookin lump hammer to cave the old sill in, a cover sill tacked over the top lashed up with aerosol primer and some shite cheap underseal, good to go guv innit...........

 

The Granada and Mex are jaw dropping 'proper like'. There is a guy on Retro Rides that did a Victor to the same standard, pure class.

Does the Retro Rides fella go by the ID "tonyBMW"? If so, he has a lengthy history in bodywork invisible repairs, and he makes it look disgustingly easy.

 

Most of his work, unsurprisingly, involves elderly BMWs, particularly E12 M535i saloons. See his work and try to spot the join!

Posted

Superb thread. Question - would it have been easier in the first place to get it dipped / blasted?

 

Thanks

 

Posted

Superb thread. Question - would it have been easier in the first place to get it dipped / blasted?

 

Thanks

Can't speak for dipping shells, but you've got to be very careful getting them blasted. The process can create lots of heat which can distort panels, particularly big roof skins, bonnets etc. There is a skill to it and it pays to have a trusted experienced company who know how to strip cars do the work.

 

I know this from experience sadly as my Capri roof and bonnet suffered from it happening. It can be put right but it's not necessarily easy or cheap.

Posted

As Dan has said blasting is not ideal on a shell for two reasons.  First is roofs, doors and any outer skin metal can all be easily warped by blasting.  Second and perhaps the worst is getting all the blasting media out of the shell as it gets everywhere.

We only blast sturdy stuff like axles and other mechanical components.  The shell get dipped if its rotten enough to justify doing so.  Dipping is a much cleaner process and removes everything from the inside out.  However if you do dip a car you commit yourself to sending the shell for a second dip.  This is to remove any surface rust thats appeared during the repair process.  During that second dip a coating has to be applied similar to when the car was built to re-protect all that bare metal.  If you dip a car and just paint the outside it will rot very quickly... 

Downside is money.  The process will set you back a few thousand.  I didn't dip mine as I couldn't afford to do it.  

Dipped to reveal all the rot (this one had serious issues)

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Repairs done then dipped and coated to protect the shell

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Stoneguard and seam sealer applied

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Paint

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I'm still putting this one back together.  Really is a difficult and complex little bugger to work on.

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Posted

I didnt realise that dipping was so expensive. It does seem to aid in the process of identifying rust.

 

One more question - see when youre rebuilding the cars, what is the process of buying parts and small parts that are essential for putting it all back together? do you have a dept / person whos job it is to find the parts?

 

I imagine for some cars such as older Fords some parts can be very pricy and hard to locate.

 

Great post!

Posted

Made some more progress yesterday.  Diff box is now about 75% complete...

Started off salvaging a thick plate from the original strengthener which stops the diff bolt from crushing the box section.

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Then started making a new one.  I'm using 1.5mm steel as per original and have to make it from sections due to its strange shape.

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Then welded together making sure the welds are good and penetrate through the steel.

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Checked for accuracy with whats left of the original.

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Here it is in position.  Next I have to make the outer case.

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Same issue again so having to make it from 3 sections instead of one piece.  

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Thats as far as I got, didn't have to much time this time around but should have it back on and welded next week.

Posted

Finding parts is always a challenge.  When I take a car apart a list of required parts is drawn up as broken or tired out parts are removed.  While the car is in metal and paint we do our best to find all these bits.  Then when I put the car back together other parts will needs sourcing as they either break during installation or fail during the cars initial teething problems.  Its a constant battle as some parts just don't exist anymore and the Merc above is no exception being 39 years old.

 

I ended up visiting a guy who had collected SL parts for years.  Even he couldn't sort me out with everything I needed.  Price is a big issue too, especially Fords and higher ends cars.  A new pair of headlights for the Mercedes above can cost as much as £1800.  I got a new pair for about half that but still bloody expensive...

Posted

Jupiter red, black vinyl roof, tan velour and the factory alloys is the look.

Posted

Finding parts is always a challenge.  When I take a car apart a list of required parts is drawn up as broken or tired out parts are removed.  While the car is in metal and paint we do our best to find all these bits.  Then when I put the car back together other parts will needs sourcing as they either break during installation or fail during the cars initial teething problems.  Its a constant battle as some parts just don't exist anymore and the Merc above is no exception being 39 years old.

 

I ended up visiting a guy who had collected SL parts for years.  Even he couldn't sort me out with everything I needed.  Price is a big issue too, especially Fords and higher ends cars.  A new pair of headlights for the Mercedes above can cost as much as £1800.  I got a new pair for about half that but still bloody expensive...

I'm amazed at how much you do Triplerich; working on all those cars simultaneously must be a real challenge. Perhaps you should employ someone to help you out there & take the pressure off.

Lovely work as always on the Granada, be really nice to see it finished one day.

Posted

Have you tried SL Shop for bits? They chose a brilliant time to focus on these models, just as collector interest was very gently starting to build.

Posted

Finding parts is always a challenge.  .....  A new pair of headlights for the Mercedes above can cost as much as £1800.  ....

 

HOW much??!?  :shock:

Posted
On 2/6/2018 at 12:04 PM, dollywobbler said:

Have you tried SL Shop for bits? They chose a brilliant time to focus on these models, just as collector interest was very gently starting to build.

Our customer has kept the SL shop going for a few months now!  Feel sorry for the guy but then he did buy the worst SL he could find.  Many parts have come from the SL shop or directly from Mercedes.

Don't buy an old Merc in bad condition!!!!  

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  • Like 2
Posted

Four hundred and sixty eight nine quid for a grille badge!???? What are they made of? Platinum!?

Jaysus feckin' Christ, I feel faint now....

Posted

Four hundred and sixty eight nine quid for a grille badge!???? What are they made of? Platinum!?

 

Jaysus feckin' Christ, I feel faint now....

You do wonder with some of these parts that you could cut it out of a billet and chrome it for less.

Posted

You do wonder with some of these parts that you could cut it out of a billet and chrome it for less.

 

A 3D print would probably cover a load of sins these days.

  • Like 1
Posted

Suddenly the parts prices I'm constantly faced with don't seem so bad :)

 

May I say: you do fantastic work? Well, you do, and on the odd occassion I have really tried to do a 'perfect' job (i.e. really spent some time and done everything right) it only comes out about 75% as good as you appear to do as a matter of course! I would hate (love) to see what you could do if you tried :)

 

I have done invisable repairs on cars where I have cut accurately, made a precise panel, joddled edges, welded properly and ground back to perfect and it took me sooooooo long I had to stop for a shave part way through!

 

Keep it up :)

  • Like 2
Posted

Almost finished the diff box today.  Just some welding and painting left to do now.

Started off mocking up the various bits on the car so I could tack the top of the outer case in the right place.

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With that done I made sure the inner strengthener was in the right place and then spot welded it in as per the original.  Made sure it was full of POR first to protect it long term.  We've found that when POR is wet you can spot and mig weld through it quite happily.  

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Next I completed welding the outer together and ground all the welds down.  I've also drilled all the required holes in the outer case.

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The completed repair looks close to the original and should last another 40 years.

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Before fitting to the car I painted all the areas that will become inaccessible once welding is complete.  There was also a fair bit of hammering to get the best possible fit.

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Its now tacked onto the remains of the original diff box and I've completed some of the puddle welds holding it to the boot floor.

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Next time I'll finish the welding and paint the completed repair before moving to the next area.

Posted

Incredible work, as ever. Given that it's unlikely this will ever be used as an everyday car in all manner of weather, I'd imagine it'll last a lot longer than the next 40 years........

  • Like 2

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