Project Domes shonky autos - Car that lived by the sea in Scotland in rust shocker*

[beko1987]

That's a proper big boys car that is

[big_al_granvia]

there is nothing wrong with my frame thanks, flat4 maintains it well

[dome]

2 hours ago, big_al_granvia said:

there is nothing wrong with my frame thanks, flat4 maintains it well

Big Al, meet your namesake... 

 

[dome]

So with the weather warming slightly I thought I'd get the Jag back out. I'd missed wafting about in it. Sadly it doesn't seem to want to play.

I'm getting the same symptoms I had when I first got it-it'll start and run fine for the first 5-10 miles and then it starts to misfire.

I thought the (new) CPS was faulty so tonight took it a run with a new one in the glovebox and when it started to play up I swapped it over. Sadly it made no difference.

Here it is after I limped it home.

 

Idle is fine, touch the throttle and it's not happy though.

Any ideas?
The car has had so far
New fuel pump and all lines
Dizzy cap, rotor, leads and plugs
CPS (twice!)
ECU coolant sensor.
What's next?

[Flat4]

Cam sensor? 

[Split_Pin]

Does it have an ignition coil?

[dome]

28 minutes ago, Flat4 said:

Cam sensor? 

I'm not sure if it has one, will check that out

[dome]

16 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

Does it have an ignition coil?

It does, and an ignition amplifier-both possible culprits.

[dome]

So, there's been a bit of progress. I'll do one post per fleet member as it makes it easier for me to organise things. 

Jag

So, as we left this it would start and run from cold but misfire like a mofo when warm. A couple of journeys ended up with a walk home.

I duly fired the parts cannon and ordered up a new coil and ignition amp. I'm still waiting for the amp to arrive(it's on backorder) but one of Mr Lucas' finest coils arrive so I set out to fit this.

As found 

Removed. It mounts on this alloy plate on the inner wing, I'm assuming the little capacitor type doofer is a radio suppressor. 

I gave it a quick clean up

 

 

Old coil out, probably original

 

Connectors all cleaned up and reassembled with the new coil

First impressions were good. I did a few laps of my local test track, never more than a couple of miles from home in case I needed to walk home. All seemed OK, so far.

I also had issues with it not warming up properly-it would reach temp at speed but cool down quickly when I slowed down. I tried the old trick of testing the viscous fan when the engine was cold and it duly chopped up the bit of cardboard I stuck in it so a new fan coupling was ordered. i thought I'd treat it to a new thermostat too but I managed to buy the wrong thermostat, as you do. While I had the old one out I tested it and it seemed fine so I've refitted it for now. Anyway, new fan coupling fitted and it now gets up to temp(albeit a bit slower than I'd like) and stays there. Good. I also fitted a new ECU temperature sender at the same time, even though the resistance seemed OK on the old one. 

Finally I gave it another oil change with a genuine filter, just because.

I've cautiously been getting some more miles on it and all seems well with no misfires and running smoothly. More importantly it seems to be holding all of its fluids and everything seems to work.

Here it is in the works car park, desperately in need of a good clean

 

Next up-a good clean an polish, fit some mudflaps and regrease the driveshafts at the rear. These have a grease nipple but I struggled to get my grease gun onto it

 

[Split_Pin]

Tentatively good news there, at least it has a ticket allowing you to use and test it properly.  

Can I ask, how did you test the resistance of the coolant temp sender? I have a multimeter but presently I'm all the gear but no idea!

[dome]

Kangoo

This has been in pretty regular use but had a couple of issues. First, and most annoying was a problem with the immobilizer not mobilising. I managed to get my hands on a new uch(body computer), key fob and ECU set. 

This was easy enough to swap over, although the old ECU is an arse to remove from its cage. I elected to go for the easy option...

That's the new ECU zip tied to the case for the old one. I sealed up the connections on the old one, I'm not an animal...

This brought with it a slight problem-the traction control light is now on as the new ECU was from a car so equipped. It's the orange triangle. The rest were there already 😳

I'm ashamed to admit some black tape was used to cover this up for it's MOT. It'll do until I can get a shot of CLIP to get the warning light situation under control. 

The MOT passed left the other issue-an intermittent speedo. The speed sensor is cheap to buy and easy to change, when this engine is installed in a Kangoo at least.

Here it is, down the back of the engine.

 

The old one came out looking a bit manky, a gearbox oil change is due. I also gave it an engine oil change. 

Next up apart from the gearbox oil change is an inner track rod end. Some rust proofing would be a good move on it before next winter and Id like to give it a bit more soundproofing, although most of the noise comes from the engine🙈

 

 

[dome]

20 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

Tentatively good news there, at least it has a ticket allowing you to use and test it properly.  

Can I ask, how did you test the resistance of the coolant temp sender? I have a multimeter but presently I'm all the gear but no idea!

Cheers. Hopefully once lockdown eases I'll be able to get it out and about more!

For the coolant sensor someone had posted online what the resistance values should be at certain engine temps. I say it seemed to check out but it may be wrong. One of the problems is doing more than one thing at a time means you don't know which one actually fixed the problem. 

[stuboy]

12 hours ago, dome said:

do you need too park facing outwards to entrance for easy push starts when ftp?

[dome]

37 minutes ago, stuboy said:

do you need too park facing outwards to entrance for easy push starts when ftp?

I'd rather push my XJ40 than drive a Ford😜

[320touring]

12 minutes ago, dome said:

I'd rather push my XJ40 than drive a Ford😜

That your xj40 with the Escort key?🤣

[hairnet]

On 1/31/2021 at 4:31 PM, dome said:

Not a lot has been happening,

I made a list, again, in an attempt to motivate myself

I didn't check it twice, nor have I fixed the whiteboard to the wall yet...

In a rare burst of motivation

 

 

 

 

 

so you have a board that you wish to motivate yourself with

but then you CBFA to erect it :D

DEEIN IT RIGHT (ENUFF)

 

[hairnet]

https://autoshite.com/uploads/monthly_2019_09/IMG_20190919_101813.thumb.jpg.c36a4718b99d96a0fd74d9a20586b8b8.jpg

[Split_Pin]

1 hour ago, dome said:

Cheers. Hopefully once lockdown eases I'll be able to get it out and about more!

For the coolant sensor someone had posted online what the resistance values should be at certain engine temps. I say it seemed to check out but it may be wrong. One of the problems is doing more than one thing at a time means you don't know which one actually fixed the problem. 

I have the values for my Cav's one, grand stuff.

[dome]

Range Rover

This is the one you've been waiting for. Run an early L322 as a daily? What kind of maniac would do that? 

Well, it has it's problems, no denying. But it's a fucking awesome way to waft about the countryside. 

I should qualify things by saying it's only been getting driven 100 miles or so a week. Early days yet.

Here goes. 

First issue-the brakes. The pedal always felt stiff and whilst initial bite was OK more pressure didn't equate to as much more stopping power as I'd like. 

At first I suspected someone had fitted shit pads to it so decided to treat it to a new set. On stripping it down and investigating it turned out I had a seized piston on one of the front calipers. Bother. I went balls deep and bought some new pads and discs for the front and set about stripping it down.

It's pretty decent underneath (to a Scotsman anyway) and has 2 new front struts fitted in the last few years too which is a bonus. 

I went all posh and ordered up some Brembo discs and pads. I'm not inclined to scrimp on brakes on something that ways nearly 3 tonnes and has 280 bhp.

Island 4x4 supplied the goods with a new caliper-ordered on a Friday and delivered by lunchtime on the Saturday. I wasn't ready for this to arrive so quick so it was a nice surprise. 

New shiny things fitted.

The brakes are a lot better now, the pedal is a bit long now though so I think I'll try and bleed the full system. The previous owner said he'd done it too but no harm in trying it again. 

I've got new discs and pads for the rear too. The ones on there aren't totally fucked but it seems like a good idea to change them and clean and lube everything up at the same time. 

Next up, a towbar. One of the reasons for buying this was to get something I could tow with, hopefully to venture somewhere continental to get myself a Manta.

I also wanted a detachable towbar so i could remove it and keep it looking classy*. I employed my best ebay stalking tactics and eventually scored a genuine Land Rover one with the original wiring loom for less than the looms themself normally go for. Result!

Bumper off. I couldn't get it as far out of the way as I wanted as the LPG filler is attached on the LHS The black trolley jack is holding the back box up as the mounts were on the brackets I had to remove to fit the towbar.

 

 

 

Some assistance was required to get the towbar in place, it's a heavy bastard..

 

It was lifted onto another trolley jack then jacked into place and fitted. This was done on the dark so no pictures but here it is fitted.

Of course I forgot to get the key for the towbar but managed to order one online for it. But does it want to detach? Does it fuck... It's marinating in plusgas as we speak with a view to separating it at some point in the near future. Also the exhaust hanger mounts on the (genuine Land Rover) towbar don't match the old one so some temporary* bodging was required to hold it on place whilst I engineer* a long term solution that doesn't involve zip ties...

What else? Oh yeah, the heater fan stopped working. A new hedgehog(resistor pack) was purchased and fitted, nice and cheap.

 

I also decided to fork out on some proper diagnostics, a Foxwell unit was recommended. At this point I must confess it arrived and was duly ignored for some time until I built up the courage to plug it in. Thankfully, for the most part, this was what I saw.

Sure, there was some codes for some modules but who knows when it was last read. Nothing of any great concern was flagged up and the air suspension gave the all clear which was a bit of a worry. I say a worry, nothing gave me any cause for concern, apart from the fact it is a Range Rover...

Next up was cam cover gaskets. a known issue on this engine is that they leak. This thing does have a reasonable amount of oil leaks so I thought I'd start at the top. I could feel a weep of oil from the front near where the timing cover joins to the block. 

Suspension down, bonnet into access mode. Tools and coffee at the ready.

Removing the cabin filter housing under the scuttle involves 2 bolts and gives great access to the rear of the engine.  it was pleasing to see everything looking pretty clean back here

 

I started on the passenger side. Getting the cam cover off was easy enough. 

Oh hello, someone's been going a bit mad with the sealant. The gasket was looking quite new and the previous owner mentioned changing them...

Tut tut thought I, what a cowboy! Let a professional at it!

Well, this did not go well. There two separate cam cover seals, an outer and an inner. Trying to get them both to stay in place whilst squeezing the cam cover back into place was impossible. The thing kept falling off. Or I'd get the outer one in place only to find the inner was out of place and I had to take the whole ting back off. Fuck.

I ended up taking it back off, cleaning it up and applying a little bit of sealant all the way round the cam cover to hold it in place. I then fucked off to walk the dog to chill out and let it dry. I came back, applied some sealant to the bits recommended in the manual (where the timing cover joins the block and at the back an refitted it.

The leak is now worse, right from the corner where the block meets the timing cover. Fuxxake.

I'll try loosening the bolts  off and lifting it enough to clean things up an apply some fresh sealant. I may have to give up and do it all again with a new gasket though.

Needless to say I've not attempted the other side yet.

Finally I started swapping out orings on the cooling system to try and get to the bottom of the slight coolant loss. I did the two on the expansion bottle and noticed this telltale on the radiator where it had been weeping

I'm not convinced it's coming from the oring on that hose but I changed it anyway. I've not done enough miles to see if it's fixed but I don't think it is yet.

Anyway, there you go. First few months and couple of thousand miles in on the Rangey.

For all the naysayers, pretty much every problem I've had is BMW part related. So far, at least...

But, it's a fucking ace thing to smoke around in  

 

[dome]

As you can imagine, with such a reliable fleet of a Range Rover, Jaguar and Renault van with the wrong engine thrown into the engine bay from a great height it gets tiresome having so many reliable cars.  

A new purchase has been agreed from a far more reputable* marque, one I'm well known for being a fan of.

Nothing exciting, just a fixer upper.

Of course, it's fucked. Collection on for tomorrow

 

[bigfella2]

2 hours ago, dome said:

For the coolant sensor someone had posted online what the resistance values should be at certain engine temps.

I would be grateful if you could post up a link to that. Cheers

[dome]

7 hours ago, bigfella2 said:

I would be grateful if you could post up a link to that. Cheers

Here you go.

"With a cold engine, Haynes says the value should be 1500-3000 ohms.

With the engine at normal operating temperature, Haynes says the value should be 280-350 ohms."

So, the resistance should decrease as it warms up. Although at around a tenner for a new one replacing it anyway isn't a bad idea.

[Split_Pin]

No look of surprise from me about the BMW parts, same issue on the Bini.

Good to see that you haven't been put off older, complex cars after the S4 issue.

 

[cort16]

The Range Rover looks like it's turned out to be decent especially for a nearly 20 year old Land Rover.

I think I've been there before with those BMW rocker cover gaskets and had to do what you did and glue them in with a little sealant. At least with gaskets that have the bolt holes through them you can stick cable ties or something through the holes to keep them in place until you get the bolts in. 

My BMW is going into an indy BMW place on Tuesday as it's giving it full Exxon Valdez

[dome]

And we're live on a collection mission with my trusty companion. He's not to blame for these stains at least...

[NorthernMonkey]

20 minutes ago, dome said:

And we're live on a collection mission with my trusty companion. He's not to blame for these stains at least...

What a gorgeous chap he is! 🙂

Can’t beat a spaniel for collection mission assistance!

[hairnet]

dug be like oh no not again :D

 

[dome]

Cute? Yes, he can be. An idiot? That too...

Nearly there.   Nice day for a walk. Hopefully we'll not be walking home too

[dome]

And here we are. A 2009 Seat Ibiza 1.4tdi Ecomotive. The same 3 cylinder PD engine as the A2 had, so that should be fine*

First things first, inflation was required. I'd already done this when viewing it so knew the inflator was there.

Install copilot

 

No dash lights at present, I'd already reset all the codes

And home

First up, give it a wash then I'll have a prod and later I'll update with what I've found.

[hairnet]

nice taxi m9