Talk to me about Rover 75s

[laser wheels]

I know these get a lot of love around here, so gen me up if you will. I'm thinking Rover over MG, even though the MG versions are cheaper for me to insure. I understand the pre-Project Deprive ones are the best, but when were they made? Was it a steep drop off in quality, or did they just get gradually worse until the end? I fancy an auto, were they any good? How is the 2.0 V6? Any known rot spots? Fuel my fantasies, please!

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Have you have a flick through the Rover 75 threads on here? I had one (a thread i mean), EssDeeWon has one, RobT had one, FatHarris or whatever his name is has one, Chompysnake, theres flippin loads man

[laser wheels]

Will do. At the moment I'm on the interwebz checking out buying guides and Autotrader and such.

 

Interesting* fact: in 1999 the Rover 75 was not only awarded Italys' 'World's Most Beautiful High Class Saloon' but also The Society of Plastic Engineers 'Innovative Use of Plastic' award. There now.

[Captain Slow]

I've got one. Driving mine is what made 3 of my mates, including Chompy, buy theirs. I've done 1000 miles in mine since September - what do you want to know?

 

Autos better than manuals because no clutch hydraulics to worry about. Pre 2001 are your best bets, mid 2001 is when changes started to be made but as a rule you're fine up to 2002. Cowley built cars (Pre 00, black sills) are prone to sill rust, Longbridge cars (coded sills) are fine. Check the rear suspension arms, mind.

 

For what they are they're a huge bargain.

[MarvinsMom]

look on the 75 & ZT owners club forum, there is a mine if information bout these on there.

 

project deprive started almost as soon as MGR started in 2001. little bits went first off, like proper wood on the dashboard, 2 cup holders up front, the carpet finishers on the heater enclosure, cheaper, thinner carpets..... the list goes on. the later into the run that the cars got, then so the cost cutting went on and on cheapening what was (is?) an excellent car in my opinion.

 

engines? first off are the 2.0 and 2.5 KV6's nice but thirsty and have 3 timing belts what need doing, 2 on the front of the engine and one at the back. they are i think pretty good engines, the VIS inlet nonsense gives trouble, then the 2.0 got dropped in favour of an 1800 kettle, both turbo and N/A with predictable results!

 

they all seem to leak into the boot, saloons around the back lamps, and also sometimes around the chrome trims on the side of the car. estates less so, but the back lamps on the estate is a stupid friggin' design that is held on with some silly little clip things. i think these are also NLA new.

 

the diesel is a 113bhp or remapped 135bhp engine of german (spit....) origin can now be remapped up to 160bhp. remapping improves the driving experience and increased fuel economy.

 

some bits are NLA such as vented back brake callipers on the petrol cars, and some bit like bumpers can only come off breakers.

 

clutches are shite, they last about 100000 miles with a crappy plastic concentric slave inside the gearbox and plastic master cylinder up under the dash, these can be replaced with a landrover metal one, and they can be replaced by a chap off the club forum for £800 for the clutch, clutch slave and master cylinder.

 

they also chew up drop links in the front axil 4-6000 miles seems to be about the limit for them unless on perfect roads, and the front wishbone bushes also wear, plus rust in the back trailling arms (now NLA...) can also be an issue ans mot fail.

 

having abused mine, a CDTi estate, for the last 18 months and love it. it comfortable and reasonably ecconomic, i get low 40's to the gallon, thogh my other half who has lighter feet can get 50mpg.

 

rust doesnt seem to be too much of an issue, though the back sills (cills?) suffer from rot, they have these shitty little rubber pad things in the jacking points, these fall out and the holes in the sills fill with crap. and as the sides are a single pressing repair panels are not available. but a skilled body shop man should be able to make up and reconstruct them if needed.

 

for the last model to come out of Longbridge they are the best car i think that the plant ever built. i think that its a great old bus. oddly enough it is cheaper for me to insure a rover over the mg?

[Fat_Pirate]

I too am in the 75 club.  I picked it up 6 months ago from Purplebargeken and the more I drive it, the more I like - which seems odd, because I bloody hated them when they were in production.  Mine is the 2.5 auto, I mostly waft along and get 30mpg, very happy with that.  It's an early Longbridge car (2001) and the sills needed patching for the last MOT (£100), and the rusted rear upper suspension arms had to be replaced - those are becoming hard to get.

[Roverageous]

They're fucking awesome.

 

They need maintaining well, but honestly, they're so so good.

[EssDeeWon]

Odd hearing about the sills because my previous Longbridge car had rusty sills but my current Cowley car sills are fine.

 

Anyway, Rover 75's I hear you ask? Well there is already lots of good advice above.....

 

Its a buyers market so find a nice early car in good condition and with plenty of paperwork and proof of belts having been done at some point. The prices are currently very low and the difference between a nice well looked after car and one that is clearly on its arse is roughly about a tenner, so find the best you can.

 

Need ecomony? Go Diesel but these are generally higher mileage cars. But ideally you need a 2.5 V6 with sub 100k miles. They are far more hardy than many people give them credit for.

 

Best thing to do is post up any examples that take your fancy and we can drool mull over it for you 

 

I love driving my 75 (Year 2000 2.5 V6 Auto) and quite honestly cannot imagine being without one now for sheer comfort and waftyness.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

could you get a 2.5 Rover (not an MG) with a manual box?

[Alexg]

I've been driving my 2001 2.5 for a few days now and I have to say it's a quality automobile. It's clearly a lovingly maintained car and low mileage but the fit and finish are excellent. There are no rattles, squeaks or bit's of flimsy trim. It feels no inferior inside to a 2015 3 Series and a heck of a load more pleasurable place to be. Also, it doesn't drive like an old car, it still feels bang up to date. The best bit is that just feels special; I'll be wafting along feeling like cock of the walk.

[Captain Slow]

Yes you could.

Chompy - I beg to differ. The 2.0 is smoother than the 2.5, but the 2.5 goes better and isn't any worse on fuel.

[EssDeeWon]

These are the type of examples I would be looking at;

 

£750 BIN with genuine 46,829 miles

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-Saloon-2-0-V6-Club-4-door-/151990918158?hash=item23635d5c0e:g:kE8AAOSwWTRWyd8k

 

 

£990 with a dealer, 103,000 but the belts were done at 53,000

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000-W-Rover-75-2-0-V6-Auto-Connoisseur-Full-Service-History-Heated-Leather-/281939412534?hash=item41a4e60636:g:iv4AAOSwUuFWxi3Z

[Alexg]

That 46k Club looks cracking value

[Urko]

I haz 2005 MG ZT-T 2.5 V6. Currently in (v slow) process of an engine swap due to the "the V6 never does that" OMGHGF.

 

The owner's club is a funny place - more or less wanted to come round and kick my head in for suggesting I might actually have OMGHGF. Several implied that in the extraordinary event of it being true it was my fault for not changing the oil before every trip/doing more than 1500 rpm (ever) etc. (Tbf I have had a lot lf help too)

 

If I was buying again I would get the 1.8 turbo cos people will actually believe you when you get HGF and it's cheaper and easier to fix.

 

I would actually rather have had a Rover than the MG version, but getting the spec I wanted was proving impossible.

[Urko]

Oh, mine's a manual, but the autoboxes have a decent reputation. They are preferred on diesels as they seem harder on clutches with a manual box than the pez ones. Box (auto) is Jatco.

[EssDeeWon]

Of course KV6 HGF does occur, about as likely as most other cars of that era I would say, but so often it is wrongly diagnosed, as in your case it clearly was HGF and that is real rotten luck.

 

Good luck with the new lump, i did see your thread on the new belts.

[HH-R]

I've not read the thread so might cover old ground here.

 

1998-2001 were Cowley cars, they can generally be identified by "bullet badges" on the doors, black sills, large Rover badge on boot lid separate to the chrome finisher. They were pre project drive but rumour is that early Longbridge cars were better built, MG Rover started cost cutting straight away though. Sweet spot is probably a 51 plater with colour coded sills and bullet badges, there was some overlap between the factories and builds but that should signify a pre project drive Longbridge car.

 

1.8s did the usual HGF but are apparently a good balance between acceptable performance, not being a diesel and economy. V6s are thirsty, can suffer from expensive inlet manifold motor failure* and occasionally HGF, thermostats leak, they're not mega quick but sound oh so nice. Diseasels aren't bad apparently, but they're shabby diseasels and therefore not suitable for such a gentleman's car. The 1.8 turbos are supposed to be disastrous and a total lash up.

 

*there's some motors in the inlet manifold that control the amount of air that goes in, it's supposed to offer torque at low revs/speed and open up at high revs. I could never work out whether you were meant to be able to feel a "VTEC like" kick at about 3500 RPM, I've heard yes and no as answers.

 

Manual gearboxes are Getrag and OK, gear change is OK but can suffer clutch slave issues. Autos seem OK.

 

Trim, even on Cowley cars, falls to bits, TBH it's a poor man's Rover 45 for that. Kick plates will all be kicked off and possibly missing, good luck finding replacements. The real wood dash feels a bit cheap and creaky and the door handle surrounds fell to bits on mine.

 

Drain plenums getting full of shit flood the ECU and cause associated issues if not kept clean.

 

Other than that though, I had NO issues on the W reg v6 I had at 13 years old, it was perfect. I had a little bit of rust breaking out on a rear arch. They are getting on a bit though!

[montytom]

Having owned mine for over 2 years now and having one of the launch cars I think I can tell a little bit about them.

 

Me personally I'd go for a cowley car with black sills. The 2.0kv6 is slightly smoother than the 2.5kv6 which is still a lovely smooth engine.

The 2.0 fuel consumption is about the same as the 2.5 so if you shoes one get the bigger engined one.

 

If you get a funny oily smell in the cabin change the plastic breather hoses as they go brittle.

 

If you are loosing coolant check the v in the engine as that is where the plastic thermostat housing sits. You will see little deposits of dried coolant. The real wood dash has a gold airbag sticker under the lacquer but the late fake wood ones had a badge instead.

 

If your car seems down on power and doesn't give you a kick at around 2800-3200 rpm then one of the vis motors need changing. Nothing damaging but nice when done.

 

Try to get one with highline ipk which is shown by a little lcd computer in between the clocks and also a button with a computer symbol on the left hand stalk. If the boot has a pond in it then normally the rear light seals need changing but sometimes it's the flank strips.

I'll write some more when I get home it's just I'm at work at the mo

[Skizzer]

Stop it, you're making me want another one (and making me feel bad all over again about the one I killed - Cowley 2.0V6 manual that died of plenum-related brain failure.)

 

Rear screens leak but it's fixable, if fiddly.

Door handle mechanisms were prone to failure on mine. I got good at replacing them.

Starter motor solenoids can pack up but it's about £4 for a refurb kit and so easy I can do it.

Airbag light is often on as the sensors get mucky or something.

Seatbelt light is often on too, fixed by wiggling the wires under the front seats.

Changing headlight bulbs (or was it front indicators?) requires 8" Kevlar fingers and a lot of swearing.

 

Great cars. Do it.

[CortinaDave]

I've had a few ZTs and they are lovely cars. I want another.

[Negative Creep]

Nothing has gone wrong with mine thus far, comfy and has a good ride. 2.0v6 is smooth but lacks power so if I had the choice I'd go for the 2.5. Looks more expensive than it is, which is always a bonus for me

[andrew e]

 

This is the only reliable one I've encountered - my father in laws. Even that ate a turbo and the in tank pump, mind you it ultimately did nearly 190k in four years. These cars have enthusiastic following, but everyone I know with them has thrown £££'s at them - reminds me of BX owners of old, buy cheap and spend £££'s. I'm not a hater but I preferred my Vectra C to drive and that was awfull. I guess his died in 2010, these pictures are 8 years old!

 

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk

 

[montytom]

Heres mine,I have spent money on it yes ie servicable items. The only money I spent was for rear shocks. They are reliable cars and lovely to drive too the glide down the road effortlessly especially on 15" alloys like mine.

 

This was upto POL and and back averaged on brim to brim 39.3mpg not bad for a 2.5v6 auto

 

 

 

 

 

[Tam]

Had a 2003 diesel tourer from 2008 till 2013 and replaced it with 2005 diesel MG ZT. Great cars with lots of plus points! Not without faults though! Suspension has been my main grumble. Clutch was done on my old tourer as well. Didn't cost the earth but didn't replace MDF.

Despite everything still the best cars I've had. Usual mpg with the diesel manual is around 45 - 50 for me and the 160 upgrade makes them fast enough if needed.

P.S. after owning the 2005 car I would go for as early pre 2001 or as late as possible. Some of project drive was reversed near the end of production and things like the stupid plastic carpet retainers were improved.

 

[dugong]

AUTOSHITE APPROVED VEHICLE (gobble gobble)

[Mr_Bo11ox]

^^^^^ A BITTER MAN

[taxi paul]

My 75 is a early x reg car. I would go for the 2.5 auto. Mine is a 2.0 manual. I don't like auto's. Main thing as mentioned is belts on the 2.5 and 2.0 . If they haven't been done then its around £600.00 . I wouldn't bother with sunroof , nothing but problems. Some parts are a bit rare and therefore pricey. You can get rear arms now from Dmgrs in Skelmersdale along with everything else. I would buy best you can find . I wouldn't worry about spec level as you can get all upgraded bits from scrapyard. I have put leather interior, chrome mirrors and new refurbed wheels on mine for under £200.00. But if you can find one with all the stuff on then great.

[oldcars]

I have a facelift diesel and love it. The stat was stuck open so needed replaced, common fault to i believe. So it the swimming pool in the boot. This is better* now the lamp gaskets have been replaced. As has been said mine leaking from the trim around the window but this will be fixed in summer. 

[SamR380]

My 2.5 Conn SE is literally the best car I've ever owned. Very comfortable, fast enough and not bad on fuel. It was so good I decided to splash out on the V8 model they did just as they were falling over, which is less comfortable, less well put together (later car) and feels like an effort to drive. Sounds pretty awesome though.

[rawy]

My 2.5 Conn SE is literally the best car I've ever owned. Very comfortable, fast enough and not bad on fuel. It was so good I decided to splash out on the V8 model they did just as they were falling over, which is less comfortable, less well put together (later car) and feels like an effort to drive. Sounds pretty awesome though.

 

Another ZT V8 owner on Autoshite... Who'd of thought!

 

I agree with you, even though I've never had any of the others... Mine is currently in a dry garage after the ecu having a swim & the wipers doing their own thing & door locks not working!

 

Rawy