'93 Mondy thread - MOT pass

[egg]

Just to be clear, cut like this:

 

coathanger.png

 

Tried it - and they just don't have enough purchase - having to really tug them and they ping out with the radio still in situ.

[egg]

No heat will more than likely be a blocked matrix.

 

Indeed. That's probably the issue 

[sierraman]

4 welding rods I used when didn't have no tool. You push them in then bend the rods outwards to disengage the retainers. Why are you dismantling the steering column. The likely airbag problem is the connector under the seat, it's a yellow connector. The removal of the fascia isn't a big job, hours work tops.

[TRW]

You have to apply a little amount of inward pressure and pull out at the same time. When I say inward I mean both rods pulled in towards the the stereo unit

[egg]

4 welding rods I used when didn't have no tool. You push them in then bend the rods outwards to disengage the retainers. Why are you dismantling the steering column. The likely airbag problem is the connector under the seat, it's a yellow connector. The removal of the fascia isn't a big job, hours work tops.

 

Earlier in the thread it was suggested that the multiplug connection at the base of the steering column could be the flashing airbag light culprit. I'm trying to get at it to have a look.

[sierraman]

I'd make the under seat connector my first port of call as they are prone to coming loose. The airbag is self testing so once the fault is sorted it will clear.

[egg]

Bought a set of radio removal tools today. Still can't get the fecker out. I feel like a complete numpty. Anyway, I have a slightly different set coming from ebay with a different profile - so will try that Wednesday.

 

I emailed the original dealer Cuff Miller (or Muff Killer as some of you wags refer to them!). Got a nice email back....

 

I have had a look at the service history that we have and I can tell you that it had a regular service with us from,

1995 to 2005. There was a cam belt fitted at 25662 miles on 26/11/1998.

 

After 2005 we had it in for MOT’s up until 2009 and then we did not see it again.

[egg]

So why can't I control my drivers wing mirror properly? Took it apart this morning. The (manual) movement of the mirror is controlled by three springs that connect on to a base plate behind the mirror glass.

 

One of those connections has snapped (not the spring). True shitter would try taking it apart and glue it back I suppose - but as new 'OEM quality' replacements are available on ebay for around £20, I'm tempted just to take the easy option....

[beko1987]

For 20 squids I'd treat it!

[egg]

For 20 squids I'd treat it!

 

Found a new Ford old stock part for £13.49 delivered. Result!

[egg]

So I got the radio out, well I didn't, I just pulled the dash away with the radio! What did I find?

 

The unit which the heater controls are mounted on is fecked - it was coming away in pieces in my hands - old brittle plastic. Now I have to find another one of these in good condition (non-AC).....but it gets worse...

 

the hold/cold knob controls a cable (no motorised movement like later models) - the cable does nothing i.e. does not turn the lever on the heater. I can't turn the lever by hand either - suggesting the air distributor within the heater is seized up. 

 

Should have left well alone....  

 

[sierraman]

I'd check the levers, they are mounted way down under the dash. If it's going to be a pain id just leave it and live with the lack of heater action. I've had cars in the past where the heater didn't work and you just manage.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

I had a simular issue with a Ka. On that turd the heater was on full bore because the valve was fuckered. But the control panel was shagged as well and up[on dismantling, the true spectre of Ford quality* shone through. Like a 1978 Fiesta, but worse.

[AnthonyG]

What about looking in a breakers for a late Mk2 (t-v reg ish) I'm sure they still used the same bits on the two '99 ones I owned. But then there's no guarantee they won't be buggered either I guess.

 

I am truly impressed by the minty freshness of this survivor Mondeo, and the fact these are now 23 years old! Where did the time go...?

 

Good luck with it anyway.

[rantingYoof]

That photo of the dashboard removed made my palms sweat.

 

 

If you'd posted a photo of someone mid-way through open surgery I'd have flinched less.

[sierraman]

I had a simular issue with a Ka. On that turd the heater was on full bore because the valve was fuckered. But the control panel was shagged as well and up[on dismantling, the true spectre of Ford quality* shone through. Like a 1978 Fiesta, but worse.

Less of an issue on the Fiesta/Ka, the heater valve is bolted to the top of the bulkhead under the screen.

 

I'd make my judgement on whether to set about taking the dash apart based on the soundness of the ends of the sills and the backs of the inner arches. If these are going I wouldn't fuck about with mending the heater. If you can't weld it will cost an arm and a leg to put those right. If they are sound however then could be worth investing the time into putting minor stuff right.

[egg]

The heater controls have been removed today. Here is the damage in full. the part I need is 93bw18d - without the air conditioning control.

 

The good news is that I can move the hot/cold lever under the dash (near clutch pedal) - which means the air distributor is still working in theory.

 

So who is breaking a Mk1 mondeo so I can source this?

[fordperv]

I don't know anyone breaking one but there are 2 breaking on ebay

[egg]

thanks - they both look like non-AC models..

 

Edit: this bloke reckons he has got one (will check Monday) - will be £16 delivered.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Breaking-Mk1-Mk2-Mk3-Ford-Mondeo-All-Petrol-Every-Part-Available-Cheap-/172106594547?hash=item28125a38f3

 

That would be great if it works.

[egg]

Also fitted the new wing mirror today (no need for pics) could do with some fettling but it is on.

 

I also got just one non-yellow headlight reflector (nearside) from ebay for a couple of quid - fitted that which makes a difference. Might 'invest' in some OEM non-UV bulbs if I get the other bits sorted. Just need the other side now.

[greengartside]

Can always help with Mondeo bits should you need them chief.

[dollywobbler]

Wow. That makes a huge difference. Bye bye unintended-French look.

[egg]

 

Attached a youtube vid of the airbag fault. It lights for approx. 4 seconds, goes off for about 8 seconds and then returns in a loop.

 

I think the pre-tensionner fault is where it flashes four times then goes out. So this seems like a different fault?

 

As far as I can understand it - early models have the spring pre-tensionner and not the pyrotechnic version which has the yellow connector under the seat? Happy to stand corrected.

 

any thoughts?

 

I expect I'll try and disconnect the control module at the bottom of the steering wheel column and get some contact cleaner in there in case that is the problem.

 

If not - it is going to have to go to the auto electrician (once the heating is sorted!)

[sierraman]

It's not the seatbelt pyrotechnic tube, that's completely separate, it's an actual connector that sits under the seat it's yellow. IIRC the flashing airbag light relates by the timing and number of flashes to the actual problem. The central locking has a similar fault finding test sequence.

[sierraman]

http://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php/Airbag_Fault_Codes

[Pillock]

Yeah, there's diag codes for both airbag and central locking.

I triggered the locking diagnostics inadvertently on my mum's Escort Cab, I was sat messing with the glovebox and suddenly the horn starts going off with little peeps every time you open a door or turn a key. Seems it's meant to do that! Trigger a lock six times in 20 seconds or something to start it, and then it beeps every time you turn a key or open a door.

[lisbon_road]

Good work sorting all this stuff out.  Really impressed, nice car.

[egg]

You want excitement? Hey, this is a Mondeo thread!

 

A week of waiting. A breaker says he has the heater controls, but I've been waiting for it to be removed and posted to me. So the dashboard is still in pieces and the car is stationary. I have also secured some new trimz - but ebayer seller hasn't accepted paypal payment and hasn't responded to my message. Lets hope it works out! 

 

So I have been faffing about - secured a OEM bonnet stay to replace the broken one, it's all in the details folks, and on that note...

 

 

Following a tip from Christine I have been experimenting with Celluose thinners and the headlight reflector recently removed - it does work - enough I hope to remove the MOT advisory, but the 'new' one I sourced is still cleaner.

 

 

A general clean up of the nooks and cranny's has revealed this giffer gem - a Norfolk Bowls club pen. Suggesting the car might have occasionally escaped its south coast home.

 

 

And finally, following a suggestion by Beko(?) on the detailing thread, some Autoglym trim restorer has been bought and made a significant improvement to worn trim. Time will tell if it is more effective than standard pound shop back to black...

 

 

 

Anyway, hopefully in a week or two it will be back in service.

[oldcars]

Did you use Autoglym bumper care? The green stuff? If so it will last well, i use it on all the plastics on the Reliant and the Kia.

[overrun]

Linseed oil!