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Cortina won't start now! tips n diagnosis?


reanimation-films

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Hiya, I don't pretend to be an experienced mechanic I just like old cars and can just about fix logical things reasonably well. I could do with some experience/help here.

The project Cortina isn't far off its recommissioning MOT, summer innit! Quick but it won't start now. :(

It;s a 1982, 1.6 Pinto looks like Ford Distributor, and Fords crappy carb.

 

It did work, even after a friend and I changed the timing belt last year It was fine. Started and ran good.

This year another friend helped with the task list and swapped points and condenser for new, and rotor arm and distributor cap. and somehow it doesn't start. just turns over fine just isn't attempting to start/fire. I swapped points again and regapped them for the first time in my life, still not firing, I've also added a gallon of fresh petrol just in case it's that, and also changed the rusty old coil and presumabley the - and + were already in the right order on it which I set teh new one the same. New fresh plugs are in, the HT leads are newish too...

It could be to do with all the swapped parts, or we could have busted/moved something, or it could be coincidence?

 

What should I do/try next time I'm looking at trying to fix the damn thing?

 

Thanks :)

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Check the rotor arm is making contact with the top of the dizzy cap, had a similar problem with the wagon, new evertyhing, would'nt start then we noticed the metal contact prong on top of the arm was'nt making contact with the top of the cap, bent it up slightly and bingo.

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Was it running ok before you swapped the points ?

I Think it was, had it started a couple times but It is likely I'd not ran it a few months and we launched on to the tasks without starting it first.

 

How far down the system have you got sparks? [if any......]

I've not done any good tests as I'm not sure how to do them and whether sparks will kill me/make my hair spiky! By accident I got a spark at the points at one attempt setting/testing the gap as I left the batt and ignition on by accident, also I can hear a click when I connect battery.

 

ARe there sparks at the plugs and fuel reaching the carb?

Again not sure at present. Is it a case of pulling the lead off and seeing if it sparks against the block? Not sure about carb I need to look at that more.

 

cheers

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Check the rotor arm is making contact with the top of the dizzy cap, had a similar problem with the wagon, new evertyhing, would'nt start then we noticed the metal contact prong on top of the arm was'nt making contact with the top of the cap, bent it up slightly and bingo.

I hope it's this, it could be!

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Pull the lead off with the plug put it next to a cleanish part of the block and crank the engine, should then see a good strong blue spark dude.

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If you've changed the leads, have you put them back in the right order?

Should be 1 3 4 2, with no1 being at the belt end.

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Pour a bit of fuel into the carb and see if it'll cough. My cortina is a complete bastard to start if you've not used it for a while it just cranks and cranks and cranks then it eventually fires.

I think the non return part of the fuel pump is guffed so if you leave it for any period all the fuel goes back to the tank.

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If you've changed the leads, have you put them back in the right order?

Should be 1 3 4 2, with no1 being at the belt end.

Sorry forgot to say this, they were and just to check they were not changed with the new plugs/cap I did reference it with my HBOL. will double check though.

 

Pour a bit of fuel into the carb and see if it'll cough. My cortina is a complete bastard to start if you've not used it for a while it just cranks and cranks and cranks then it eventually fires.

I think the non return part of the fuel pump is guffed so if you leave it for any period all the fuel goes back to the tank.

This also makes sense. especially as the rear is slightly lower where it is, I even jacked up the rear to try! great will try this.

 

thanks

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hold the lead with no gloves :D youll get a belt maybe not gonna kill you tho :D

 

crap in the carb??

 

pull the plugs after a crank do they look wet/smell of fuel?

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i take with it being the 1600 its the crappy vv carb, if theres a spark when you test that as said pour some fuel down the carb and see if it coughs, you may find that if its sat for a long time the needle valve has stuck in closed position not letting fuel into the float chamber

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If it was running before you swapped the ignition components over I would try putting the old ones back on. despite being new, there are an awful lot of very poorly manufactured condensers/points out there that are no good straight  out of the box. I'd be tempted to think it may be the carb if the original VV is still there, but too much of a coincidence that it now won't start after having ignition bits done.

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^^ This. I know it sounds daft, but 9 times out of 10 if my cortina wont start its cos the points gap isnt right. theyre a pain in the arse.

 

Ive also bought brand new points that were U/S. try putting the old ones back on.

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VV carb yeah.

I'd not set points  before but after having a good look at HBOL I got how it worked i think. set the feeler guage on the sqaure cam spindle high point

The parts may well be rubbish quality, can't find the original condenser or dizzy bits. - Sounds like its a case of being methodical with the swapped bits.

Before I gave up for the day I pulled a plug out and seemed dry and as new so could be carb.

Certainly a bunch of good tips here.

 

cheers again

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^^ This. I know it sounds daft, but 9 times out of 10 if my cortina wont start its cos the points gap isnt right. theyre a pain in the arse.

I remember hearing people moan about this too, I'm starting to see why! hence why I left it till now, should have left it. full stop! doh.

This is worth a relook.

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Pour a bit of fuel into the carb and see if it'll cough. My cortina is a complete bastard to start if you've not used it for a while it just cranks and cranks and cranks then it eventually fires.

I think the non return part of the fuel pump is guffed so if you leave it for any period all the fuel goes back to the tank.

 

My Mk3 is exactly the same, If i leave it a few days it's a right bugger to start, I even fitted a non return valve and that's made no difference.

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Was it jacked up the last time you started it? My SD1 has caught me out twice when it's been sitting as the fuel has ran back to the tank over time (my drive is on a hill) and with only 1-2 gallon of pez sitting at the back of the tank the pump can't reach. Once on the level it started up no bother.

With cortina's it's pretty simple. Is there fuel going to the carb? Do I have a spark? After that there's only so many things that can go wrong.

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Yeah I think it's as simple as it gets.

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It's not as hilly as it looks but certainly enough to cause a variable! thinking about it it's always been on a slight gradient since it's been here. Won't hurt to put another gallon or 2 in it.

 

Going to look for spare condenser, check rotor arm and cap, and see if a spark is occurring, and then see if any juice is finding it's way to the carb.

 

:)

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It really won't be anything major. Cortinas are so basic and simple, a superb car in this respect. I'd have another any day.

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