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mat_the_cat

Korean Cortina - project AC commences

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Don't give me ideas!

On 9/26/2019 at 10:12 PM, LightBulbFun said:

66.6Mph :)

The velocity of the beast!

I've been doing some calculations (based on driving at set rpm in each gear) myself, and if I make the assumption that the 2.3 Cortina axle contains the standard 3.44:1 diff, my gear ratios are as follows:

1st - 4.81:1
2nd - 3.04:1
3rd - 1.82:1
4th - 1.21:1
5th - 1:1

If however, I do have the 'standard' R380 ratios, that means I must have a 4.11:1 diff ratio. Once I fit the 3.09:1 diff I'll either be geared to a realistic 134 mph (rather than the theoretical 120 mph at present), or a massive 161 mph! Which I doubt I'd have the power (or the balls!) to reach.

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18 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

Don't give me ideas!

what do you think I have been trying to do! :mrgreen:

18 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

The velocity of the beast!

 

 

mobile_back1.jpg

 

:mrgreen:

18 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

or a massive 161 mph! Which I doubt I'd have the power (or the balls!) to reach.

 

reminds me of the Transit van XJ220 development mule :mrgreen:

(on a more serious note it will be interesting to see how drastic the change is in real life compared to how it sounds on paper)

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I will post up figures; I have recorded over the last 16k miles so a decent comparison.

But I am being side-tracked by another, far less important job on the car! I rhink I've mentioned the fact I'd quite like it if it wasn't immediately obvious that the engine came from a Rover, and although some people don't twig, the word R O V E R on the rocker covers is a bit of a giveaway...

So I was after something devoid of bling, something that would look like it could be a standard engine. And, thanks to @MorrisItalSLX these arrived today all the way from Australia! 

20191008_195334.thumb.jpg.665388b9a0de0a4538868695c28f5f82.jpg

The only question remaining is what colour to paint them? I was initially wondering about a black crackle finish, but then I thought that a repaint in the current blue might look quite nice, matching the filter and distributor cap. But probably wouldn't look OEM. Maybe silver? 

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Nice rocker covers! Blue is always a good colour imho, but it might make it look a bit ‘Ford’ like? They always used blue in the good old days.

How about red or orange? Should make them stand out too instead of blending in! You want to pop the hood and everyone know you have a big V8!

Or if understated is your thing satin black.

My wildcard suggestion... gold! 

Even I can’t decide!

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Understated is what I'm after! So satin black may be a good shout. (Especially if my mate can fit them in his powder coating oven, as that's the only colour he does!) But crinkle finish black might be a bit more special without looking obvious - plus cover any imperfections after removing the rust!

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Cut the Hyundai badge from a rocker cover like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYUNDAI-SANTA-2004-2-0-PETROL-ENGINE-COVER-29240-27101/122769820452?hash=item1c95a6cb24:g:p5EAAOSwc0FUqpBE

and epoxy onto one of your new covers before spraying them satin black. That would give a real OEM look!

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2 hours ago, blackboilersuit said:

Cut the Hyundai badge from a rocker cover like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYUNDAI-SANTA-2004-2-0-PETROL-ENGINE-COVER-29240-27101/122769820452?hash=item1c95a6cb24:g:p5EAAOSwc0FUqpBE

and epoxy onto one of your new covers before spraying them satin black. That would give a real OEM look!

To be a complete pedant, they didn't use that logo until 1992; the earlier one looks like the left hand side of this:

127080608_Hyundai-Logo-19741992.thumb.jpg.d47e275378e976add27d9d4acefeaee3.jpg

But yes, the idea of glueing on a badge had crossed my mind!

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Just photoshop up some new ones but replace the plug hole with a Hyundai logo :) 

 

 

side note every time I see this thread pop up I get really excited, then realise oh right Air Conditioning LOL

(which is still exciting in its own right don't get me wrong!)

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Let’s not forget that the bloke who put that sticker on was probably very well hydrated if you know what I mean.

I think that sticker would make a good T-shirt.

089EC327-80A4-402E-9603-A74ADF9EB5A8.jpeg.0a414e869510ef286be1a3fce47504ff.jpeg

As for what colour to paint them, I would go with a hammered finish, for variety, in a gunmetal grey or minty green.

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Too late! The decision has been made (at least for now...) First I took them in to work, and popped them in the sand blaster.

20191025_104333.thumb.jpg.ee730f5b9fd470635e5aa330d1363f9d.jpg

Then gave them to a mate who does his own powder coating (but only in satin black at the moment). He sent me a few photos:

received_408278833446565.thumb.jpeg.878d669e9319326322b5e6da924b1307.jpeg

received_557184111524723.thumb.jpeg.1f6ddc4ab4ec559b1bcb8914cf9e6e35.jpeg

And the finished job, which he says will dull down a bit once cool.

received_714271572382206.thumb.jpeg.b817a7ef8d97a8429b17366c53ef967c.jpeg

I figure that if they don't look right once they're on, I can always overpaint, and it'll have a good base.

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This week I did something I hadn't planned to do, and that is take the car out after they've started gritting the roads :-o Fortunately it hasn't rusted away yet, but I felt like I was being mean to it! In some ways it does make a good winter car, as no problems keeping warm behind the wheel, and the all-season tyres still grip well on the greasy tarmac. But soon I'll be laying it up until the spring.

I picked up my rocker covers this week too, but there were a few things I had to do before I could fit them. First of all I had to grind off the welded on breather pipe on the inside of one of them as it fouled on the rocker shaft.

20191031_202946.thumb.jpg.031cf9da7dbdf6487d6f6c7905991465.jpg

Then on to the holes left by the HT lead clips - the originals were broken anyway.

20191101_192640.thumb.jpg.b39f33a4083c649cfd37cea5fa48b5df.jpg

My plan was to fit an M6 rivnut (easy) then drill and tap an M6 screw down the centre, so I could screw some new HT lead clamps with an M4 screw. That was not quite so easy, especially with stainless steel! Only 0.4mm each side between the 4mm major diameter of the M4 screw and the 4.8mm minor diameter of the M6 screw I'm screwing into the centre of.

20191101_185137.thumb.jpg.c3aa5027b13857435f10a9f7cc8bebdc.jpg

My (cheap) carbon steel tap snapped with very little force, so I treated myself to a nice set of 3 HSS taps. New quality tools are always nice :-)

20191101_185216.thumb.jpg.bc446192cc18e6a67c9665894b34758f.jpg

So that done it was time to actually fit the rocker covers. Don't believe everything you read on the internet that they are an identical fit! Aside from the breather pipe, the gasket face is smaller so Rover V8 gaskets don't fit properly. The cork gaskets don't allow enough rocker clearance, and the rubber ones stick out too much. But anyway, I got them on and think they look smart!

20191101_184806.thumb.jpg.b77d67f4968191881bf71c3dfda937ae.jpg

20191101_184826.thumb.jpg.632968021ca78944ead604ab37a6b589.jpg

20191101_184708.jpg

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Arguably a better way of doing it would have been to weld up the hole with a washer before powder coating, to suit an M4 rivnut. But I only thought about it afterwards, and the existing hole was the right size for M6. That said, the bolt heads make a handy take-off for the HT lead clamps to hold them away from the surface.

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The first snow is forecast tomorrow, so this may be the last drive for a while. Although the good news about this is that I'll have chance to work on the air con installation and the axle work. It was a lovely day today however, so chance for a photo in the sunshine!

20191108_133646.thumb.jpg.a6dfdd63f9c214e1d6ff45b286ccf0f8.jpg

The thing I really like about this picture is that it still looks like a sleeper, even with the bonnet open!

 

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A definite garage day today, with snow falling and temperatures hovering around freezing. So perfect for chipping away at the AC installation then! The compressor is the next item I want to install, and I confess I took the easy option of buying some universal mounting brackets which will enable me to swivel the unit, to tension the belt.

vta-151015.jpg.f9b7e2cbe7190eb3d8ba15286d23aefd.jpg

Cutting these out myself would take longer than I'd like to imagine! With the lack of space in the engine bay though, the brackets needed cutting down considerably to fit.

20191109_213548.thumb.jpg.b5cef7e797218a4eccefcfd0297f1261.jpg

Yes, that is very thin but once I've welded this onto another plate at right angles, rigidity will be restored. This will be my compressor rear mount.

The front compressor mount I want to bolt up to the timing cover, but to get the belt alignment correct I need to set it back by 6mm. Handily, I'm using 6mm plate, so I just need to fasten one plate to the front of the timing cover, and overlap that with the slotted plate the compressor mounts to.

I made this up using an old timing cover as a pattern:

20191109_165242.thumb.jpg.08034a87412e609bcb9090a96f399001.jpg

Cutting this out with an angle grinder took a while! But once bolted up I could then overlap with the cut down slotted plate, and temporarily clamp in place with a small G clamp while I checked alignment:

20191109_213503.thumb.jpg.44160ef52d36e1dab4efa97bb5841029.jpg

Belt line looks good:

20191109_175214.thumb.jpg.4cbf3b0637fdb210a425b22bbd46d58a.jpg

But the question is, have I got enough movement of the compressor to tension the belt, without it fouling?

 

 

I'll call that a success :-)

Next job will be to either weld or bolt that together, and move onto the rear bracket. I'd like to weld it, but I'm not sure that if I do so, I'll be able to actually remove the compressor. I might have to end up making the bracket dismantlable in order to give me wriggle room.

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