Project Korean Cortina - going back in time!

[mat_the_cat]

Unfortunately not. We've compared it to the original input shaft and is around 10mm longer, both overall and the splined section. I only thought to check the spigot bearing diameter before wrestling it into place

[camryv6]

20 hours ago, mat_the_cat said:

I have considered that, but pretty sure I wouldn't be able to grind a suitably circular bearing surface, which is still concentric to the splined surface. If it'd just have been a case of lopping off the end for clearance then no question, but the currently splined portion needs to engage into the crank.

so you would have to grind the splines off but leave it round on the end ?

[mat_the_cat]

That's right, and TBH a box stripdown was more hassle than I wanted to take on at this particular time. I just wanted a simple, bolt-in solution, and ideally one which put me in a better position than I was in previously. So I bit the bullet and found a rebuilt gearbox that I could purchase outright. The label on the side of it almost felt like it was rubbing salt into my wounds!

So this should be a simple case of bolting it all togther and happy days, right? Er no, as it happened. It seems like my original gearbox was a bit of a hybrid between the diesel and V8 versions. When I first fitted it the clutch pushrod was far too long, and I now realise that the boss the clutch fork pivot screws into sticks out further than the V8 version. 

Old...

...and new.

So, I now needed a different pushrod, but at least not a difficult or expensive part to source.

Finally I could start to fit it, with at least some confidence that it should all work!

It's still a bugger to manoeuvre into position, as Hyundai clearly didn't have the foresight to give ample clearance in the transmission tunnel. But with a lot of up, down and angling things, it slid together. (I'm sure that reminds me of something, but I'm struggling to remember what).

I thought it best to test the clutch operation as soon as it was on, so any excuse to fire it up with no exhaust...

Happy days indeed! Then just a case of refitting mounts, propshaft, exhausts and centre console, and time for a test drive.

Great to be back behind the wheel again for the first time since May, although there is still work to do. I think sitting unused through hot weather has gummed up the carb, as it seems to be running very hesitantly under acceleration. But the gearbox is good, both quieter and a sweeter gear change than the previous one. That was always a little whiney, so I'm questioning how well that was actually rebuilt...

[Popsicle]

Oh well done thats brilliant news. Looks like it put up a bit of a fight to get fixed and IIRC you had troubles sourcing a box for it. I reckon you've beat the odds there in getting it going again.

[mat_the_cat]

Yes, it turned out that there's variants of the R380 for petrol and diesel applications! I guess the Autoshite solution would have been to drop an XUD in to fit the first gearbox I bought, but why the difference is a mystery. The XUD obviously needed a different bellhousing to the V8, so why not have an identical gearbox and just put it in the correct position with the bellhousing casting. Unless someone made a cockup in the design, and it was cheaper simply to machine up a different input shaft than get a new bellhousing casting tool made...

The hesitancy was when I floored it from low revs, and I only noticed it when nearing home so I took it out for another drive today to see whether it was still present at higher revs. Couldn't get it to misbehave at all! Which is good and bad - unless I find a problem I won't have full confidence in it. The fuel filter has not done many miles and appears clean, but I've yet to check the coarse filter in the Facet pump to see whether that is dirty.

In other news it seems someone has been busy on Wikipedia:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyundai_Stellar#Modified_examples

And fame on some other website too!
https://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/qotd/qotd-extreme-engine-swap-whats-your-favourite/

[mat_the_cat]

The hesitation problem actually turned out to be a clogged pre-filter in the Facet fuel pump I've fitted. What was happening was that crud was accumulating on the screen and restrict the flow at full power, some of which would drop off when you turned the engine off. So after flooring it you would tend to get hesitation at even medium throttle openings, but after a restart the hesitation would only occur after the next time you floored it. Probably another 600 miles done over the last few weeks, which reminds me, I must check the gearbox oil level...

A few photos:

[Mrs6C]

That car is awesome. It was great to see (and hear) it again. LOWD car is LOWD!!! 🙂

[mat_the_cat]

7 hours ago, Mrs6C said:

That car is awesome. 

I agree, although I'm obviously biased. It was so good to go on a longish drive again, and get a bit of confidence back. Just in time for winter it seems, but hey ho...

[danthecapriman]

Just caught up with this! Glad you’ve got it fixed👍 
Fingers crossed next year you can get a solid spring & summer’s use out of it. Getting late in the year now but at least you know it’s sorted.

[mat_the_cat]

I'll keep using it until the gritters come out, as it in some ways (traction aside) does make a good cold weather car. AC for demisting, and now comes equipped with the rare 'heated floorpan' option

[Rocket88]

Did you fit aftermarket A/C ?

[mat_the_cat]

Kind of. I cobbled a system together using a mixture of universal parts, and ones from other vehicles. Although trying to keep it as factory looking as possible.

[Rocket88]

Thanks….. thinking it may be a good idea for incoming Scimitar 

[mat_the_cat]

The bulk of the work from this point:

https://autoshite.com/topic/15643-korean-cortina-back-on-the-road/?do=findComment&comment=1909189

[Rocket88]

Thanks, I’ll have a read…..

[mat_the_cat]

Bit of a strange noise - sounds like it's coming from the lower end of the engine, but only for a few minutes when cold, and goes if you remove the oil cap!

 

You can hear that there is a release of pressure so suspect a blocked breather, but can't think of an explanation for the noise. Oil pressure seems unchanged on the gauge, and if this was the issue would be worse when hot anyway.

[Stinkwheel]

Maybe im being totally stupid (quite likely really) but does it maybe sound like an oil bypass valve opening and closing, so knocking a bit. im thinking the spring and bearing type, so you can possibly hear the bearing going back and forth, possibly this would put extra pressure into system? And it only does it when cold as the oil is thinner when warm?

Serious straw clutching from me here though, its just a thing popped in my head

[mat_the_cat]

I've never heard that noise so can't be sure, but I don't *think* so. I'd say it's in an area of the engine with thin metalwork around it, as it doesn't seem deadened by a thick casting if you get what I mean?

[Rocket88]

Does it make a puffing noise when you remove the oil cap?

[mat_the_cat]

Not so much puffing, but there is noticeable pressure behind. So it's either too much for the breather system, or it's blocked. Don't know whether it's cause for concern at this stage...

[juular]

Stupid idea : It almost sounds like the dipstick rattling against something due to crankcase pressure?

 

[Rocket88]

Does sound it’s breather related

[mat_the_cat]

8 hours ago, juular said:

Stupid idea : It almost sounds like the dipstick rattling against something due to crankcase pressure?

 

That's a good shout, it does sound a bit tinny like that. I will report back...

[mat_the_cat]

On 03/06/2023 at 22:28, mat_the_cat said:

All my decisions on diff and gearbox ratios have been based on the rev counter reading. Which I recalibrated myself to change it from 2 sparks per revolution to 4...

It appears as though I miscalculated somewhere along the line

I've checked the gearbox ratios, and it's closer to 2k rpm @ 70mph, so no need to change anything! I have to say I was happy with the way it drove and it didn't feel stressed on the motorway, just that it seemed sensible to lower the cruising rpm. This would also explain why it seemed to keen to rev past 6k rpm!

The solution to this was to recalibrate the rev counter. I'd previously done so be adding in a resistance across part of the circuit.

So I now needed to do away with those, and to avoid any calculation errors I thought best to solder in a variable resistor. I chose to mount that on top of the instruments inside the dash pod.

Relatively easy access, but hidden when the cover is on. I then connected my multimeter to the coil set to measure rpm, and tweaked the resistor until they matched. The resulting value was fairly close to what I'd had originally, so within the resistor tolerances.

It does show that I now need to up the idle speed, which will help with the tendancy to stall it when I have the AC running. 

[mat_the_cat]

I've used this for a month or so already this year, including going down to Rustival so I know it's running reasonably well. Certainly no problems I'm aware of, but still a bit nervous come MOT day.

But all good for another year!

I took it to a local Cars & Coffee meet a week ago, and attracted a bit of interest once I'd put the bonnet up...

[mat_the_cat]

Last week, this developed cylinder deactivation at idle. Not a plus point, as it makes me look a numpty whilst manoeuvring in a busy car park and having to boot it to avoid stalling. Under load, and indeed as soon as you open the throttle an appreciable amount, everything is OK.

Felt like it was dropping onto 4, so my suspicion was a blocked idle jet for one bank. A quick clean of the carb, and...

Seems to be idling fine now! And driving it still makes me grin

Although the heavy rain today suggests the scuttle is leaking into the footwell. Ah well, something to investigate in the winter.

[mat_the_cat]

It's like going back to the 80s! Or at least the 90s, when this scene was typical when I went to visit @Puglet