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19 Years of Tin Snail - Back to normality


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Posted

would blue look good as a dolly colour scheme perhaps?

Posted

The body is already white, so I'll be experimenting with the wings to start with. I'm still not sure how exactly, but I've got a while to think about it.

Posted

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liberate the 'designer' inside of you..

 

galvanised mudguards would look great when set against the polished white body !

 

satin-clear-coat nickel plated for a classy look 

 

..but then I'd also like satin-clear-coat over surface rusted mudguards.  Set against the glossy white body & bonnet would look stunning.! 8)

Posted

Taking a bit of time out to reminisce. This was Elly back in 2005, in France. Complete with old number plates, old shabby outer panels (the body had been refurbed for the first time two years previously, but I couldn't afford a full makeover) but a brand new roof (still on the car today, or should be fairly soon).

CxvTKa0XcAQObql.jpg

 

At the time, I remember being really disheartened by the shabby condition, but looking back, I really like the way she looked at the time. Us humans are never happy.

  • Like 4
Posted

i reccon a dolly in the blue of that^^^ charleston would be quaite naice

Posted

I'm thinking that Elly is a red and white Dolly, and is destined to remain so,  perhaps with minor (not Morris !) enhancements - no ? 

Posted

I'm thinking that Elly is a red and white Dolly, and is destined to remain so,  perhaps with minor (not Morris !) enhancements - no ? 

 

I think that'll probably be the case. Maybe. 

Posted

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..understandable.   

 

perhaps you might at least have the red to rounding up the rear door's bottom corner. ? sorta like the darker blue Dolly pictured above. That way your car will look a little different in the row of  Red & White's - without loosing Elly's long loved identity.?

 

..And as for all the colour / graphics suggestions recently received .. Thanks., As a second car I'd really like to acquire or build a Super-Dy2  (an Ami Super-Dyane-2cv, aka 'sidewinder') ...so some of those idea will be useful to me when trying to choose a scheme or its graphics.

 

Thanks guys  B)

Posted

Messed about with a bit of line work found on an internet hunt.

 

 

post-5335-0-20789400-1479850644_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-72425300-1479850676_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-32717500-1479850686_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-12906000-1479850691_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Thought I read somewhere here abouts ..

" ...its a bloody motor car, not a Fabergé egg. !   "    :lol: :lol:  :lol: 

..now where did I see that ?

 

 

 

..otherwise though.. nice graphics  ;)

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Posted

That bottom one is very close to where my thoughts are heading. A red and white Dolly, but different.

Posted

Q.  Does vinyl wrap help prevent corrosion, or is that the rust starts underneath &/or at the edges where the vinyl wrap isn't anyway ?   

Posted

I think you should rat look it to fuck so it looks like its died..

 

But you know its got a totally solid chassis and body.

 

Not to mention a proper rat look car should have a hopped up motor;)

Posted

a red paisley dolly?

 

make moulds from a good set of wings the mould your own plastic wings out of tupperware for greenlane resistance

  • Like 1
Posted

Front wings have been collected.

CyHx0-ZXgAA9om7.jpg

 

These are original factory wings that I bought some time ago for cheaps. I don't get on with the pattern ones, which never seem to fit. My friend Joey (once appeared on For the Love of Cars about 2CVs) welded them up so they're nice and solid. That included 'just forming up' a new inner section for this wing.

15202696_10154738490813200_2687062589974

 

That girl is remarkable. Just wish I had more time available, as I've hardly been able to do anything to the car since it came back. However, Mrs DW saw Vulg's selection above, and is especially taken (as I am) by the bottom one. Just need a practical way to make a scheme like that a possibility.

  • Like 2
Posted

Easiest way to do a red Paisley finish is going to be a vinyl wrap. There's companies that do custom prints so you'd just need to find a design you liked, provide it to them and they'll do the rest.  If you're feeling particularly patient you can lay out the design by hand and paint it by hand which would be considerably cheaper and more authentic, you can get reusable stencil templates that would allow you to apply the elements of the pattern slightly easier if you wanted something more regular, it's just massively time consuming to do.  Glad to be of service :D

  • Like 1
Posted

How about a densely packed mosaic of red Citroen chevrons or 2CV silhouettes? Just an idea that popped into my head, might look rubbish in render/reality.

Posted

Progress! I removed the doors yesterday, and brought them into the house. My thinking was that I could refit the rubber seals in the warmth. Sadly, it seems I'll need to use copious amounts of oil, so this job might end up back outside again.

 

However, this happened earlier.

15284053_10154746779763200_8754267071493

 

That's the body being bolted back onto the chassis (by Mrs DW and my mate Jasper). We'd earlier lifted it off, then applied the foam to the chassis that goes between that and the body (out of stock when I was in Bradford). I also rust-proofed the rear seatbelt saddle. 

 

Dropping the body back on and getting all of the holes to line up can be an absolute sod. I was amazed that only one hole failed to play ball.

15284966_10154746779863200_9191383681344

 

Not sure what to do about that for the moment. I'm reluctant to chop the floor for fear of creating a rot spot, and don't want to chop the chassis for much the same reason.

 

I'm still pleased though, because I can now crack on with building the body back up - ie start bolting things back in.

Posted

Can you use an allen key/long drill bit to persuade them to line up a bit better or is there no give at all in that area?

Posted

Can you use an allen key/long drill bit to persuade them to line up a bit better or is there no give at all in that area?

 

We were using many screwdrivers and tent pegs for alignment purposes. This worked amazingly well. Apart from this one hole. Every other bolt is in and happy.

Posted

That's your problem then, if the other bolts are tight there will be no movement at all on either side. Shouldn't you slacken off all the others just enough to create some give but without removing any of the bolts, jiggle it around enough to get that one in and THEN tighten everything up?

Posted

With the other bolts properly slack, if there's no leeway then simply drill the hole in the floor a little and use grease or a spoonful of schutz to prevent corrosion. If you feel you have to leave the new floors unmolested, then do it the other way round - what make of chassis is it? The jig used was most likely based on an original chassis.

 

What matters is that with the body bolted down, the steering pinion is reasonably central - if it's not, the front panels will be skew-whiff.

Posted

That's your problem then, if the other bolts are tight there will be no movement at all on either side. Shouldn't you slacken off all the others just enough to create some give but without removing any of the bolts, jiggle it around enough to get that one in and THEN tighten everything up?

 

Believe me. We gave it plenty of jiggling. By all accounts, it's common to have several holes still refuse to line up. I consider myself very lucky.

 

 

With the other bolts properly slack, if there's no leeway then simply drill the hole in the floor a little and use grease or a spoonful of schutz to prevent corrosion. If you feel you have to leave the new floors unmolested, then do it the other way round - what make of chassis is it? The jig used was most likely based on an original chassis.

 

What matters is that with the body bolted down, the steering pinion is reasonably central - if it's not, the front panels will be skew-whiff.

 

I think that'll be the solution. I need to give it a thorough waxing. I've already found rot creeping in at the bottom of the B posts. Not that pleased about that.

 

Steering pinion does seem central, though not quite for height. Enough to get the column through without fouling thankfully!

 

Problem is, 2CVs varied in exact dimensions even from the factory. People who restore a lot of them have noticed just how different two identical, never-restored 2CVs can be.

Posted

Any pics of the creeping rot?

 

So long as the pinion's sitting low rather than high, that's fine. Once bolted down and used for a few thousand miles, they often settle by a couple of mm. But you need to be able to fit the gaiter.

 

As much as anything the shape changed down the years more than the dimensions, perhaps as molds wore, perhaps as the steel grew steadily worse. The flutes on an early (post-ripple) bonnet were far more defined, the wings on earlier cars more streamlined. Similar differences in every other panel, too - the curved bits between the door and hood, all the way from the front down to the rear 'sweeps' were less bulbous, for example. 

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