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Crap stuff I buy that doesn't work


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Posted

Number plate sticky pads are useless.  I always just make ventilation holes/rust traps in the car to fix my number plates on these days.  Even the string I had holding the front plate to the bumper of the Princess lasted longer than any of the sticky pads I've used.

Posted

ive always had good success with jb weld (not the kwik stuff) , apart from when i tried to hold an oxy sensor in with it on my audi 80 ! Worked on the rusty sump tho. :eek:

 

My kx250 had most of the crankcases built up with it and was fine 10 years later , prep is the key.

 

I once wrote a letter to jb weld in america asking for some stickers as the kx was a running joke with my mates cos they said I was sponsored by them.

They sent loads  of stickers and a jumbo pack of JB weld in USA packaging all FOC

Posted

ive always had good success with jb weld (not the kwik stuff) , apart from when i tried to hold an oxy sensor in with it on my audi 80 ! Worked on the rusty sump tho. :eek:

 

My kx250 had most of the crankcases built up with it and was fine 10 years later , prep is the key.

 

I once wrote a letter to jb weld in america asking for some stickers as the kx was a running joke with my mates cos they said I was sponsored by them.

They sent loads  of stickers and a jumbo pack of JB weld in USA packaging all FOC

You've got to hand it to the Americans, they understand that customer is king. If JB weld was UK based and you'd written that letter to them here, some 19 yr old scrote would have opened your letter and shown it to his colleague before muttering the word tosser and chucking it in the bin.

Posted

As an aside, it's EXCELLENT for sticking up cuts. Stings a bit but I've not used a plaster for years, just bang a load of superglue in/on it and get on with stuff. By the time it all flakes off, it'll have healed.

 

I was under the impression that super glue was invented by the US army for rapid battlefield patch-ups.

 

Could be wrong though, and cannot be arsed to go and check. The ironic thing is that I could quite easily have done so, while typing this crap. But that would involve me having to move my hand from the keyboard to the mouse. Although I have just realised that this will be neccersary to 'post' this thread.

 

So in summary, if you don't read this, then I didn't bother.

Posted

I'm under the same impression which I always use to justify it to horrified onlookers. I don't know if the ingredients are identical but I can confirm no body parts have ever fallen off.

Posted

Used to produce Araldite here at work. In fact the 1950s factory still stands and is a glorious old hulk of a thing. 

Was the factory built using Araldite or conventional cement/mortar ??

Posted

I used to have a snooker cue that the plastic bit at the end that holds the tip on had shattered and my dad carefully built up a new bit using nothing but Araldite, carefully sanded down to match the shape of the remaining piece of the part. It held perfectly for years.

 

The thing about adhesives is that most people just use whatever comes to hand without thinking about what they're sticking together. Some adhesives need something they can soak into while others (like superglue) are contact adhesives and form an almost instant chemical bond.

Posted

Araldite must have gotten more pathetic over the years, because I remember my old man repairing allsorts of things at home with it (mains plugs, bits of the car, my Dinky toy cars when they fell apart but to name a few) and I recall it having to be mixed up outside in the carport because it smelled so ferociously bad.

Dried to that old-snot-beige color also. You could have probably made a serviceable hammer out of it.

 

The new stuff dries almost clear, doesn't smell and you can wash the individual ingredients from the tubes off with soap/petrol. The old stuff would stick and cling, especially the glop from the red tube.

 

I've used several glues here from various places, JB weld I have yet to try but I do have a seam on the exhaust of the GTA that has decided to let go at the back, so that'll probably get a dose of wire brush and gooey plop to see if it'll shut up for any appreciable length of time.

 

I'll also vouch for the 3M double-sided tape. I used some to stick the outside badges back on the car... it's slightly crooked because as soon as it touched the other surface that was it. It was stuck fast. I think it would have torn the fairly new paint off before it came off cleanly. Or tore the foam bit in the middle. Good stuff, for the money.

 

--Phil

Posted

Was the factory built using Araldite or conventional cement/mortar ??

 

HA! The latter, along with lots and lots and lots of oik-infested-area pavillion glass.

Posted

Yeah, there's no way I'd trust any tools Ed China had used.

 

 

AWESOME X24   (as ed would say)

Posted

Hammerite smooth white paint,this stuff used to be excellent,one coat covered well and would flow out to a brush mark and run free finish

I bought some earlier to coat some steel wheels for the winter, and its crap one coat doesn't cover anymore and if you try and build it up it just snags and runs.

 

I've got a far better finish from some old Dulux i found in the shed

Posted

ive never had any joy with hammerite or smoothrite . one coat is shit and according to the tin you can only overpaint when 3 of saturns moons are in full alignment etc

:evil:

  • Like 3
Posted

Hammerite smooth is the devil's pant stains.    Waxoyl is shite too.   All CRAP  I use BiltHamber stuff now and Rustoleum.   Fugg Finnegans and their poxy efforts at rust inhibition.  If I painted my plastic caravan with it that would probably RUST as well

  • Like 1
Posted

T cut doesn't seem to have the effect it once did either. I remember T cutting a few of my old shitters years ago and the cloths invariably turned the same colour as the car was after a few minutes, but the last time I tried it on an old-ish car it did nothing. Must be modern paint or something. :-?

Posted

I think the reason everything has become shit is the doo gooder save the planet, hemp pant wearing, tree hugging prius driving eu health and safety loving bastards who say it's wrong to use stuff that is in anyway harmful to absolutely anything. Then this dictates to the companies who make the once successful product to fuck it up so it can stay on the shelves

  • Like 2
Posted

Creosote was good for preserving wood & made the shed smell like a shed, modern fence paint is crap 

Posted

Creosote was good for preserving wood & made the shed smell like a shed, modern fence paint is crap

 

My father in law bought a cheap and seriously crappy shed in 1974. He painted it with proper creosote and it is still there. Still stinks and the roof caved in in 1992, but the rest of it is still there.....

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