Old Shaguar or Modern Aldi

[HillmanImp]

Everyone should own a Jaaag at some point in their lives. You can't call yourself a petrol-head unless etc....

Hell, at these prices everyone CAN can own a Jag.

 

I have wanted one of these since they came out. In about 1999 you could buy kits to make an XJ40 look like one of these and i seriously thought about getting one at the time with my student loan (i wonder if any of them are still about).

[cort16]

These things are totally mega. I loved my Xjr they're such a nice place to be .

Looks like a great purchase . They're terrifyingly complex but for that money who really cares ?

[Negative Creep]

I really want on of those Jags, and only the size of my work car park has stopped me in the past. That said, if I had to have one modern it would be the Audi A5, as I think they look utterly fantastic

[cort16]

Also my Xjr got up to temp mega quickly but was rock solid once it got up there. They all go grotty around the rear arches , below the rear lights and under the rear window seals. Underneath they've got big iron girders fit jacking them up I think these go soft as the rubber stoppers fall out .

[DaveAspley]

Every time some busy body says "I bet that costs a lot to run/tax" I remind them that paying £299 a month for reduced tax and 50mpg does not outweigh a £600 car with all mod cons that "only" manages 22mpg. Plus it's a v8, argument won. "I've got Bluetooth quadrophonic bum massage spare wheels, only £22000" YEH BUT I HAZ A V8 AND IT MAKES WOMEN MOIST WIF IT'S NOISE. SO FUCK OFF BORUNG BASTID.

[skattrd]

Top purchase & nice write up Mr Imp.

I'm now thinking the next car I buy should be a Jaaaaag.

[DaveAspley]

X type v6 petrol for the win, well under a grand now. Avoid 4x4 ones with "just needs the clutch cable adjusting m9"

[eddyramrod]

Every time some busy body says "I bet that costs a lot to run/tax" I remind them that paying £299 a month for reduced tax and 50mpg does not outweigh a £600 car with all mod cons that "only" manages 22mpg. Plus it's a v8, argument won. "I've got Bluetooth quadrophonic bum massage spare wheels, only £22000" YEH BUT I HAZ A V8 AND IT MAKES WOMEN MOIST WIF IT'S NOISE. SO FUCK OFF BORUNG BASTID.

 Sounds just like a conversation I had with my stepson recently... he of serial Golfage, at least two of them brand new and the current one being a Blumotion (which is white, er....?) and me being the serial Shitist and Detroit lover, obviously.  I suspect after the Sable I might have to have another Jaaaaaaag.

[Volksy]

This is marvellous. And also spuring me on to realise my waftobarge dream.

 

Think it will be an S-Class for me. Think we should do a Goffee/Woolard Giant test.

 

 

You should come and visit the Castle in it, would look fitting outside!

[Junkman]

Fun and quality added to one's live driving an old Jag for 10 years: worth £1,000,000.00

Fun* and quality* deducted from one's life driving new Audis for 10 years: worth -£1,000,000.00

 

You are by default £2,000,000.00 better off driving an old Jag for 10 years.

No further calculations necessary.

[Magnificent Rustbucket]

Think it will be an S-Class for me. Think we should do a Goffee/Woolard Giant test.

 

 

Woolard did a Giant test S-Class/XJ/7 Series back in '86. He preferred the BMW. I still haven't forgiven him.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyijmOJVnvI

[New POD]

I spot a bit of man maths.

 

Your £15K purchase price is the main driver for any old petrol car to be cheaper over 10 years.

 

To get into more Man maths you need to factor in financing the audi on a £300 a month PCP contract and then just worry about monthly costs.

[Six-cylinder]

Woolard did a Giant test S-Class/XJ/7 Series back in '86. He preferred the BMW. I still haven't forgiven him.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyijmOJVnvI

 

Thanks for showing us this video, I have a 735i SE of this era but like the other two as well.  

[Jim Bell]

Gr9.5 buy there fella.

As soon as Tony Blair sorts the tax bands out I think everyone will be bidding up Jags.

I pine for another. I think everyone does.

[Pete-M]

I miss my old XJR, but my X type 2.5 (awd) is pretty damn good.

[Ian_Fearn]

I've not read every post in this thread BUT I think I've got something to add!

 

My uncle is on his 2nd xj8, both 3.2 v8s so not the fastest version by any means but utterly sublime. His first needed all the typical stuff. Wheel bearings, cam chain upgrades and a gearbox but it was bought as a highish mileage cheaper price range motor.

 

His 2nd is a stunning low mileage version but here is the cost factor, it came fitted with a brand new lpg conversion properly done. Once you add lpg the price equation is tipped well in favour of the jag

[Partridge]

Well said Hillman Imp. What can I say about this other than I agree 200% with you?

[Junkman]

Woolard did a Giant test S-Class/XJ/7 Series back in '86. He preferred the BMW. I still haven't forgiven him.

 

Yeah, the Bimmer is the best of the bunch for woolarding.

[Magnificent Rustbucket]

Hell, at these prices everyone CAN can own a Jag.

 

I have wanted one of these since they came out. In about 1999 you could buy kits to make an XJ40 look like one of these and i seriously thought about getting one at the time with my student loan (i wonder if any of them are still about).

 

I remember them well! The conversion was done by a company called Custom Cabrios, and called the 'Phoenix kit'.

 

Unbelievably, the website is still active. Maybe they're still selling the dream of the "£50,000 supercar for just £3,500!"

 

http://www.autofashion.co.uk/phoenix_conversion.htm

 

£50,000 super car for just £3500.00

The Phoenix body conversion for the XJ40 is a product that is exclusive to Custom Parts Limited. It has been developed from a conversion we have regularly carried out at our workshops, on customers cars. Recent re-development has meant that whilst we are still able to carry out the conversions we are now able to offer a DIY package to customers, allowing them to undertake the work themselves, and thus opening this conversion up to a far larger audience.

 

 

The XJ40 is a car that represents unparalleled value for money at the moment, with sound MOT'd cars selling for well below £100. All models offer excellent equipment, pace and reliability, but the styling is at best described as dated, and is considered by many as ugly. The new Phoenix conversion changes all of that, in one easy step.

It is a simple mostly bolt-on restyling exercise which results in the car looking like a brand new XJ8. Sounds too good to be true?

 

 

HOW CAN THIS BE SO?

The conversion works because although every outer body shell panel is different on the XJ40, and X300, when Jaguar developed the X300 they started with the same shell, and "face lifted it" making it more rounded and more like the classic shape of the "old" series I,II,III XJ6. However since the basic underlying shell, is the same, and the doors almost the same it is possible to convert the external appearance of the XJ40 to a very accurate replica of the X300.

We first saw the potential for this conversion a few days after we saw our first X300, and within months had developed a package allowing us to convert the car. It took hundreds and hundreds of hours and many thousands of pounds worth of Jaguar panels (£7000) to complete the conversion, because none of the X300 panels will fit on the XJ40. Using our own brackets, adapters, and modifying many panels we were able to complete a number of these conversions, and were fortunate enough to have it featured in the Jaguar Enthusiast Magazine. These early conversions were entirely in metal.

We have now completed re-development of the package, and have taken moulds from the last car we completed, so that we can now produce a composite package allowing customers to conduct their own conversions.

The kit includes a front bumper, rear bumper, front wings, bonnet, bootlid, rear end conversion panel, grill, and headlight pods. These panels are direct replacements for the original items, and bolt onto the original mountings. Only the rear conversion panel must be bonded onto the car. All mouldings are top quality composites with kevlar reinforcement in key areas. They are supplied in a gloss black finish which simply needs sanding and priming in the normal manner.

The only items that you need to purchase in addition to the conversion kit are : Front and rear bumper chrome blades, grill inserts, rear taillights, badges. We are happy to supply these items, or you can purchase them directly from your local Jaguar dealer at what is quite surprisingly realistic prices. We are also able to supply high quality second hand spares (cars that are stripped at scrap yards are still very new), or you may get them from Classic Components (01325) 722777, or a number of other companies advertising in the Jaguar Magazines.

WHAT IS INVOLVED IN THE CONVERSION?

The conversion is a relatively straight forward DIY job. You simply remove the front and rear bumpers (2 bolts each), bonnet (6 bolts), bootlid (4 bolts), front wings headlights, taillights, and grill. This can be done in as little as 1.5 hours.

The next job is to replace all the panels you have removed with your new Phoenix panels. These are direct replacements, and should fit onto the existing mounts. It should be noted that like all replacement panels, there may be an element of adjustment of holes, and mounts but the replacement process is really pretty straight forward. The secret with this conversion is in the adjustment of the panels, so that they have even gaps all round. Time spent at this stage getting it right really is worth while in the end. If you have an assistant to help lifting the panels, some of which are heavy you should be able to reach this stage within a day. The bootlid conversion panel must be fixed to the car, and then bonded on. The joints between the old and new panel are simply blended with filler once the bonding has fully cured.

At this stage you may choose to send the car to a paint shop for painting or may reduce the paintwork bill slightly by preparing the panels yourself. The key to painting fibreglass is the key. The panels must be very very well sanded for the paint to "key" or grip the panels. We recommend only 2 pack products which are not viable in most cases for home painting, and the use of etch primers, to aid adhesion. All panels should be wet sanded with 240 grit wet'n'dry paper until all the gloss in every nook and cranny is gone - you should end up with matt black panels.

   HOW MUCH WILL IT COST ME?   

The entire conversion can be completed for around £2500.00 if you are working on a very strict budget and undertake the bodywork preparing yourself, although a more normal cost might be around £3500.00.

The Phoenix conversion kit, is being offered at a limited introductory offer price of £1500.00 for the mouldings, inclusive of VAT and (Mainland UK) postage. In addition to that the additional items will cost around £350.00. Paintwork can be conducted for anything from £600.00, to around £2000.00, depending upon the bodyshop, and condition of you vehicle.

Base vehicles cost from around £1000.00 to £7000.00. As with all project you should get the best one that you can afford, as it will cost more to put things right on a bad one than to just buy a good one. The cars to go for are 3.6/4.0 with leather, alloys and preferably Sovereign. There is normally very little price difference between well equipped and less well equipped cars. service history is very very worthwhile.

HOW DO I ORDER ONE?

You can order in a number of ways. You may fax, phone or Email your order. All conversion kits are made to order, so once you place your order you will be given an approximate delivery date although you should not book a bodyshop or other specialist until you have actually received your kit. Payment is by cheque, for UK customers and bank transfer for Overseas. Products will not be dispatched until cleared payment has been received. Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions not answered on the website.

Probably the hardest part of the conversion process is the rear end conversion which is why there are a couple of photos below to explain what takes place.

The rear section must be cut around the taillights and replaced with the GRP panel which is bonded onto the car. This allows the use of the new rear lights, and bootlid. The rest of the conversion involves direct replacement of panels.

[HillmanImp]

Right dudes.

 

I have got the relay for the fanz and its still a no-sho for rotation and cooling. Fuse has been swapped for another and still nowt.

 

There is defo power at the switch but when I do the paperclip test, nada.

 

Have even swapped over fans with some others and still nowt. Would there be power at the fans unless the switch was telling it to go there as nothing is showing on the multimeter?

 

I have turned on the aircon and still nowt, to see if that would make power come through. 

 

Or should I just admit defeat already and drop it of at the local autosparky?

 

Any ideas?

[cort16]

Does the temp gauge ever go over half way ?

Have you tried leaving it idling for half an hour and see if the fans eventually kick in .

[HillmanImp]

Does the temp gauge ever go over half way ?

Have you tried leaving it idling for half an hour and see if the fans eventually kick in .

 

The temp is holding fine, only staying at half way no matter what.

 

I left it idling and they have not kicked in but it was not getting any warmer so why would they? 

 

Maybe I am just being paranoid? Is there another way of checking to allay my worries? I need to now before I get stuck in traffic on the M62 one night or something as am paranoid about overheating having owned Imps for so long.

 

I would expect the fans to come one when I turned on the AirCon like and they don't. But maybe they don't on these?

[cort16]

Maybe it's just an efficient cooling system I wouldn't worry about it.

What does google have to say about it?

[The Moog]

Fans should kick in with AC. If there is power at switch but none at fans then it is either relay or losing power a long the way.

 

Are the relays good? Do you get a click when powering switch?

 

Best way is follow basics. Power at switch bu none at fan that means issue is between the two. It will feed the relay to avoid heavy duty wire

 

This is exactly what I had with 405 and wiring plus relays were borked.

[HillmanImp]

TBH it only has lots of stuff about the fans staying on too long. That's something I would be happy with.

 

They do say that the temp gauge is electrical and not always to be trusted though.

 

You could be right I suppose. Think I might change the thermostat for piece of mind. The housing is plastic and peeps say that you should get a metal one so might do that.

[HillmanImp]

Fans should kick in with AC. If there is power at switch but none at fans then it is either relay or losing power a long the way.

 

Are the relays good? Do you get a click when powering switch?

 

Best way is follow basics. Power at switch bu none at fan that means issue is between the two. It will feed the relay to avoid heavy duty wire

 

This is exactly what I had with 405 and wiring plus relays were borked.

 

That was my thinking re aircon. However being more modern and complicated I wondered if that was true with these? Maybe some other sort of witchcraft?

 

As there was no power at the fans I was not sure if there would be if the switch was not telling it to go there? 

 

I am not sure how to power the switch other than get it to get warm enough to enable it?

[The Moog]

The paper clip will bypass the switch, so if you jumper it they should run.

 

No matter what the AC should set fans onto low (normally).

 

Check fuse first as I had issues on my carlsson with the fans and when I pulled the fuse it fell to bits(after spending ages hunting the fault.

 

Then I would start by 12v on fan to check they work. Unusual for both to go

 

Then try jumpering switch with paperclip that will rule those out.

 

Next check relays. 405 ones were corroded beyond belief and so needed replacing. If you aren't getting a click when switching on AC then power isn't getting as far as that.

[HillmanImp]

Did the paperclip first. Nothing. Have checked the switch with a multimeter and there is power there. Swapped the fuse over with another one. Still nothing. Swapped the relay with another, still nowt.

 

Not put the multimeter on the relay thinking about it. Will try that but was not sure if it would register unless the switch was telling it to? S'pose with the aircon on it probably would unless it has a seperate one? Will check.

[The Moog]

When you say switch is that in dash or in radiator?

 

Relay should have have power to it. The low power feed will be activated from thermo switch / ac relay

[HillmanImp]

Radiator fan switch is next to thermostat housing on top of radiator. 

 

Will see if there is any power at relay tomorrow evening with the AC on. There is a different AC switch though. Assume it goes through the same relay?

 

My thinking is though that I should be able to switch the fans on with the AC in any car no matter what the age. 

 

Ta for help though. Hopefully will sort something out.