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Bfg

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About Bfg

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    https://sites.google.com/site/sunbeams7s8/home

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    Westerfield, Suffolk, England, UK
  • Interests
    1940's - 1980's motors & motorcycles. Older aircraft & waterborne craft. Design Engineering. Touring & camping (in decent weather), & generally being a grumpy old giffer ;-)

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  1. I didn't know the earlier Spitfires had a different windscreen, apart from them being slightly lower I thought. The GT6 windscreen surround I understood was a bolt on affair but with bolts to the scuttle top rather than shafts through it ..so it comes out but undoing those bolts and sliding it forward. Only what I hear like, as I have no direct experience of the 6. Thanks for the offer of windscreen loan, that's very kind of you. Should I explore that route I might well like to take you up on it. I have driven a car extensively with just aeroscreens, and a motorcycle helmet for longer, colder journeys. Back in the day I've also used aeroscreens in lieu of a windscreen to get a car through an MOT where the car's wipers didn't work. I'm a bit soft for aeroscreens nowadays, and even have a windscreen on my old Sunbeam motorcycle. Arn and Ack are a great bit of surviving history. Were the Bond Equipe also made using the Vitesse chassis and motor ? Either way, excellent to have them in your collection. Where they are in the pecking order for restoration - within the foreseeable future ? It would be great to see them on the road. I'm pretty sure you must be fully aware of the TR4 equivalent - the Triumph Dove ^ Looks nicely done to me, and said to improve the aerodynamics / top end performance.
  2. ^ ..excellent. The TR4 looks very small compared to your Vitesse, and perhaps even a little smaller than what looks to be a red MX-5.? Must admit I was very tempted to buy a Vitesse with its more space inside, but having owned and restored a TR4 sometime back in the early 90's - I knew I really liked that car and it's four banger lump. Yes, I like chassis cars Meccano kits but as you know - I personally suffer from being over-sized for them. It's going to be a challenge to make it work, but I think one of the first modifications I'll make will be to raise / mount the windscreen on an 1½” plinth. These Triumph windscreens are bolt-on anyway so nothing irreversible. I can make that and paint the plinth body colour so it should look tidy. Mind you looking at your Vitesse I have to wonder if that that's a deeper screen. I'm a member of the TSSC so someone will have one to try.
  3. . Today, I'm back on this transport and transatlantic shipping lark .. I really hate admin ..but its got to be done to get this car from Arkansas.. 1. Schumacher ; Ian Jeffreys <[email protected]> I first wrote on 4th April - no reply. And again two weeks later - no reply. So again today : 25th May 2. Sea Kargo I first wrote on 4th April - no reply So again today : 25th May 3. Ross and Jennifer Lilleker - contact via Jim the transport I first wrote on 5th May - no reply. So a reminder today : 25th May 4. STS were very quick to reply with : £2,200 for sea-freight if I get the car overland to their depot in North Beach, Florida or (possibly) the same from Huston Today, Saturday, 25 May I pulled my digit out and sent details and requested a quote to the following : 5. Global Container Services Limited - Chris, recommended by an old friend from work. 6. [email protected] - My email bounced back saying emails for quotes will not be forwarded. So I sent it to their UK office . . 7. [email protected] 8. [email protected] - 9. [email protected] - recommended by Ken (TSSC) I also filled in a quick 60-second Auto quote from 10. www.autocarshippers.com - 60 second quote auto reply was ..they will contact me within 24 hrs. ! I'll let you know how I get on. Bfg
  4. Ouch, I feel for you. My first thought on seeing that camshaft wear was the tappets must be hydraulic auto adjusting types ..but clearly seeing the nuts on the rocker arms that is not the case. So someone has previously adjusted the gap (to keep things quiet) and ignored the state of the camshaft, or else it has worn in a very short time ..which indicates oil feed issues.? Have to say - I love how when faced with such a situation, you turn around and talk casually about radios - Good on you Six-c. I do hope you have good fortune in finding a decent head and camshafts for the Gamma. ..must admit though out of your fleet - I most like your MGB and the Vitesse. That might be an age thing with me, or else a hankering for the simpler things in life. Best regards, Bfg.
  5. You make a good point and in many instances I would wholly agree with you ..but thread-lock does tend to rely on both inside and outside threads being clean of oil and 60 years of inside-engine-stained embedded grime. I use a bench (rotatory) wire brush to clean into the threads of bolts, but the inside threads of a used nut is not so easy. Likewise thorough cleaning all around a stud's thread can be very awkward when the stud is shrouded in such a bearing housing. I've used new spring washers here because they are 'springs' which tension up over a complete turn and a half ..and that's not a does work or doesn't scenario like thread-loc. And I further agree with you that there are other types of locking nuts - that would have been acceptable in such an environment (especially where new nuts are used). In this particular this instance though - the spring washers have a thickness which raise the nut a little above the surrounding face and the plain nuts have a full depth flat - which makes getting a spanner on (almost) possible ! Below shows the nyloc that was, and the very limited access to get either a socket or spanner in, and then the fractional depth of 'spanner flat' on this type of of lock nut.
  6. I was wondering about this, in regard that it might not be a filter at all, but rather a basket for holding something which in time dissolved ? But what compound might one add to engine oil ? I'm thinking along the lines of something like lead in petrol ..before unleaded ..as an anti-knock or else to make it more slippery ..like bath salts. I might add though that the dip stick goes down into this gauze tube, so whatever it might be, there was not a lot used. Ok., just possibly I'm over thinking this.
  7. .. Thanks Captain Yeah a shame ..but these things happen sometimes and most of us make a mistake or three now and then. And perhaps we might even take a short cut ..just to get on with life. I'm surprised only so much as the guy who sold it (so presumably rebuilt this motor) is the son of a founder member of the post-war Sunbeam club, so I might have expected more with that family's experience and enthusiasm. hey ho ! Following on from my previous pictorial update, here goes .. ^ this is the crankshafts rear main bearing carrier. The big white-metal bearing (centre) reveals the oil route from the geared pump (bottom right) to the crankshaft drilling which was blocked. While it was off I removed drilling plugs to check and clean inside the oil galleries. I then went on to change the incorrect nyloc nuts used to bolt the pump on. Nylocs are not designed to withstand the hot oil inside an engine. A rectangular section lock washer and plain nut is safest, because if the pump body loosens and lifts just a little then the oil pressure is lost. Another task I did has little to do with rebuilding this engine, aside from the fact that it is an early model S7 (bike # 936), and almost everything subtly changed in 1949 when the S7-deluxe was introduced. Not all the changes were good, and most I'd guess were to reduce costs in production ..but at least the later bike had hydraulic-dampened front forks. Anyway by way of diversion, I took some time out to record many of these detail changes ..which at sometime I'll add to my SunbeamRandR website < here > In the meantime here are just a couple of examples . . This is its gauze filter .. for when one adds oil to the engine. For me it's inconceivable to pour so lumpy an oil into an engine that this coarseness of mesh would stop bits from getting in.! Below is a visual comparison of this early bike's crankshaft versus the later type . . The early crankshaft (left) has been machined with a flat across all three bob weights. The later type had just the central bob machined down either side. The bearing sizes, throw and weight of the two are the same, but because of where the weight is taken off, the early one would give a slightly quicker engine response (having slightly less inertia). However the later type has a little less mass in its central bob, which might have been to lessen crankshaft flexing or else to change its harmonics. Although of the same dimension, the front main bearing was also changed from a ball race to a roller bearing. It's also apparent that its drilling for balance is about the centreline, suggesting the crank with conrods and pistons were originally balanced by hand. The latter is drilled (for balance) on one side of the front bob weight and then right on the opposite side of the central weight, which I suspect would have evaluated by a machine. NB. please ignore their colouring. I've simply cleaned the early one ..before putting in back inside the engine. Moving on.. ^ seen upside down on the bench ; the crankshaft has been refitted complete with oil pump, the rear bearing carrier, and the OHC timing wheel with cam-chain. ^ The back of the engine and timing gear is closed off with this pressed-steel cover. Unfortunately they very often get bent (see edge along the top of this photo) which can only happen when kicking around in someone's garage. Around the screw holes also get pulled into its cork gasket due to the original spec using small washers. As the gasket face which prevents engine oil getting onto the clutch - this cover needs to be suitably flat . . ^ work in progress, panel beating to as near flat as is practical. ^ not prefect but certainly much better than it was. This will now seal against a cork gasket. ^ when the engine seized, and I was trying to free it by rocking the bike (in gear) down a slope vigorously ..the clutch was slipping. Tbh it's surprising that it wasn't slipping more. I really don't understand why someone should spend a lot of time, care, and money rebuilding the engine, only to then put its clutch back together in this state. The friction plate itself is on its last mm before the rivets would start wearing away. NB. clutch plates from the later engine are a direct fit. ^ a little elbow grease, that's all. ^ again not perfect, but I replaced the friction plate, and scrubbed up the pressure plate faces, then cold-galvanize painted the surrounds to keep humidity-induced rust at bay - so again it now ought to be serviceable. ^ fortunately the bore was not badly damaged as the engine seized under no load, but the forward cylinder's piston rings were iffy so I replaced them. Naturally I double checked the end gap on all before reassembly. ^ all clean inside, with new big end shells ( those two pairs of shell cost a whopping £102 + VAT ! ). Fresh oil liberally used during assembly. The pistons are now in and the big end shells torqued up correctly (25 ft-lb) and new split-pins are fitted, cut to short length and folded. This is almost ready to close up ..but first I wanted to do something about the sump's oil filter ..more on that next time.. Tune in - same time., same channel ! Bfg
  8. . .. it's been a couple of weeks since an update, so a quick pictorial for you . . ^ just a little tidying up. The con rods on these engines are forged aluminium. It's not a performance engine so I don't worry about lightening things. All I do is to clean up the original rough cut edges where the flash had been removed ..to lessening the hard edges where stress might start a crack from. The pistons with a split skirt are non standard - but they fit and the bike was running well before it was starved of oil by the blockage, so they can go back in. ^ a little more clearance. The block is laid on its side on the bench and this slot at the back of the engine is where the cam-chain runs. Inevitably at some time the chain has been slack and flapped around a bit. This cuts grooves (see arrow) which then leaves hard edges. Again I don't like epicenters for stress cracks to develop so I cut the aluminium crankcase back for a little more clearance. (Below) ^ it doesn't need to be smoothed out and polished. I just cut back to as deep as the chain had worn. No more, no less. This is one of the sump studs, which I had helicoiled a few weeks ago, but clearly it had pulled out when I tightened the sump nut. This was a bit of a surprise because it's only a 1/4" stud that goes in there and the gasket I made is cork, so it was not very tight. Anyway it needed doing. ^ This is what I found.. I didn't drill it out like this. Clearly it had been a problem for someone beforehand and they had drilled a very rough hole and filled it. I don't know what it was but possibly epoxy filler paste. What do you do with a hole like that ! ? ^ Well I had recently bought a new blowtorch and some HS2000 rods, which are in effect a low melting point aluminium alloy. I melted this into the hole to fill it up. Not totally successful as you can see, because the blowtorch couldn't get the surrounding aluminium hot enough for the filler alloy to flow fully into every crevise (..after all this crank case is designed as a heat sink to dissipate heat !). Never-the-less what is in there appeared to be tight. ^ I proceeded with drilling a hole for the stud, using the cast aluminium sump itself as a pattern ^ well it might not have been a pretty repair but drilling this alloy is just like drilling other aluminium. And the 'fill' stayed in place so it can't be too weak. ^ Tapping the fill with 1/4" Whitworth for the stud also went fine. ^ well that seems to have worked. I added a few drops of wicking lock thread around the 'fill' just to make sure, and when that was well dry - I filled the rough hole edge with Araldite epoxy so the gasket will have a flat to seal against. It certainly seems as strong as any other stud now, and at the end of the day will only be torqued to 6 to 8 ft-lb. That'll be all for today but I do have a few other tasks done to share. Bfg
  9. . Time to play - What would you do ? to a basic criteria of building a seat-of-the-pants TR4 daily driver, with its four banger motor, lightweight GRP panels, and a wish for the car to look basic sports and very 1960’s. I ask because ; v As is clear from the above correspondence, this car was modified from the outset. v I’m stuck with being 6’5” tall. So I’ll need to make some changes to better accommodate me. v I’m on a low budget and buying the least expensive Tr4 I can find. But as it has not been on the road for about 37 years, many of the components will be unserviceable and perhaps uneconomical to repair. This is a project-car needing everything restored or else replaced. v I want to drive the car ( in all weathers), rather than show it. In short ; it is not a precious car, nor is it original, and nor will it ever be. Therefore I’m inclined to feel free and ‘update’ certain systems.. Systems : I’m thinking things like screen demist and windscreen wipers, battery and charging system. To swap these things out for more efficient and lighter weight components. What might you suggest ? And what else ? Motor : I did consider dropping a suitably period V8 Daimler 2.5 V8 (140bhp / 155ft.lb @ 3600rpm) into it. This is a really good motor, and the car’s original lump has laid dismantled for donkey’s years and so most likely is going to be expensive to restore. However, as this particular Tr4 was tuned by SAH to perhaps 135bhp / 140ft.lb @3350rpm., it seems to me that swapping it out would a.) loose something more of the car’s history, b.) loose something of the raw TR4 I like, and c.) not be worth the considerable effort ..for the resulted gain. I also had the option of a TR6 motor (US. carb spec. : 126bhp / 132ft.lb @ 3500rpm) with this car, but have rejected it because although very tuneable - it would again loose the crude feel of the four banger, and because the six-cylinder’s additional weight ..and weight distribution, are each counter to nimble handling. In short : I’ll stick with the original 2.1ltr TR4 four pot motor, with its twin carbs and four-branch extractor exhaust. Likewise, the four speed manual gearbox with overdrive will be used. But where practical and within a small budget, I’ll do what I can to enhance performance potential, driveability, reliability, and oil-tightness. Power to weight / weight distribution : SAH’s GRP panels on this car save weight and centralise its weight distribution. These are the direction I’d like to pursue further. Style : Formative years or what ? In 1964, my Dad was a competitor in the East African Safari Rally. I was an 8-year old kid. Perhaps because of these things I now prefer the early Tr4 style as a fun-spirited rally car, more than the more glitzy image of the Tr4A. So I’d like to retro back to basic by removing its superfluous chrome trim and side lights. I’m also inclined towards the original TR4’s painted white dashboard rather than the 4A’s wooden facia. To me, timber finishes work great in a comfortable saloon, but less so in a sports car. And I’ll use the original steel wheels, as I feel Mini-lite style alloys are sorta like a silk purse attempt to make these cars appear more refined than they are. In short : I’d like an almost spartan early 1960’s look. Brakes, Suspension and Chassis : From what I understand, this car's front brakes have been up-rated to twin-pot Toyota calipers. At the rear are the original 9” drums. I don't know about the front shock absorbers, but the rear suspension dampers have been changed.. from the original Armstrong lever arms to Moss bolt-on conversion brackets and modern upright slider shockers. I’m not sure about this, as it seems like just added weight, when the original dampers work well and their rating could be changed just by going for a different weight of oil. Am I missing something here ? - - So, what would you do ? to a basic criteria of ; a nimble handling TR4 road car, with its four banger motor, lightweight GRP wings, and a wish for the car to look basic and very 1960’s.. to best achieve a fun (nimble and quick) road TR4 .. able for daily duties ? I invite your constructive and perhaps imaginative suggestions.! Bfg 0692 - 20th May
  10. You see I'm not the only one to have old number plates hanging in their garage. !! History 101 continued .. And the latest news from Raymond we have is this little gem.. Ah, Here's one I was really looking for - the original plate on the nephew's wall Raymond - - - ( interestingly this email was date stamped some 4 + years later than the previous from Terry ) . . ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Smith,T To: "Raymond Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010, 10:03:37 AM CST Subject: garage wall Hi Raymond , I am pleased you enjoyed the snapshots of the TR. Attached is a shot of the wall just above my work bench. My wife is a collector. Big into family and local history. Terry - - - My reply to Raymond : Raymond - that's brilliant - Chance's original registration number : DWK 741C I'm not sure it is possible to get the same number back on the car, but I'll make some enquiries as I have just checked on the department of transport website and that number doesn't seem to have been otherwise allocated to another vehicle. It is possible in some instances to buy registration numbers in this country through specialist agents but I've no experience of doing that. And a number like that would probably cost about $250 plus the registration fee. So it's a lot of money for a number ..but it might be nice ! I can also check with the TR register to see if anyone has any record of this car. Again it's unlikely because those who now own TR's weren't driving in 1965 ! ..but it is a good place to start. If the car had been raced or rallied then there might have been a record, but from what I read in your emails that doesn't seem to have been the case with Crawford's Tr4. Might I ask, did you every get an authorised dating certificate for the car.? As I'm sure you are aware ; the registration numbers signify where and when the car was first registered for road use in this country (not where or when it was made). The suffix letter 'C' is for the year 1965, and the second and third prefix letters ' WK ' signify the car was originally registered in Coventry. Canley being a south-western suburb of Coventry, is where the Triumph car factory was until 1980. From what your prior correspondence said ; the car was ordered through a US dealership, but it would appear the car was actually collected by Crawford directly from the factory itself. I wonder if he was privy to a guided tour to see cars being assembled along the line ? I am enjoying this - THANK YOU. Peter - - - from Wikipedia : Canley is known as the site of the main factory of the Standard Motor Company and was all open farmland before 1916. The initial factory was built around ' Ivy Cottage', near the Canley Train Halt and was first used in 1916 to build First World War fighter aircraft. 'Standard' cars were produced there from 1918 onwards. The factory continued to expand over the site throughout the 1920s and most significantly just before the Second World War when two additional Shadow Factories were added. Production of Standard and Triumph cars continued until car production ceased in August 1980 as part of British Leyland's rationalisation, although the Triumph brand survived until 1984 with the last cars being built at other British Leyland factories. Some of the Triumph car factory site was retained as a technical centre until the mid-1990s but was successively demolished thereafter. A commemorative sculpture of the Standard-Triumph badge now stands on the site of the works, on Herald Avenue, close to the Standard Triumph Club, which is now the only remaining building of the industrial complex where thousands of Coventry people once worked."
  11. . (.. Oops - my mistake) .. History 101 involves a little time travel today ..to just before the above correspondence was received on 1st October 2006. The following ..which appears to be in reply to something Raymond posted on his own website, goes back to 25th August 2006. First Contact .. - - - -----Original Message----- < F. Veitch > wrote: I know your SAH tuned TR4A - In fact I drove it The day I was married.! The car belonged to my uncle, E. Crawford Morten And he purchased it new in England tuned by SAH. The car was not raced in England, nor while he was the owner. It was a real screamer, I had a stock TR4A-IRS and his ran circles around it. Original color was BRG, and it had Laycock OD. I do have some original photos of the vehicle, Both exterior and under the hood. If you finish the beast and wish to sell it to someone who will care for it as it deserves, please let me know before putting it on the market. Additionally if you know the whereabouts of a TR3-A S/N TS53537-LO or know how to see if it still exists, I would love to know where it is. That was my first TR, also owned by Crawford. I did autocross that one, and it was a world beater! The fastest damned TR I ever drove, and I have had 5. Crawford also had Peerless GT (TR engined) and Herald 1200 (POS). His daughter Christine Morten Smith also had a Spitfire. A real TR family! Regards, Fletch. > Fletcher P. Veitch III - - - -----Original Message----- From: Raymond Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 08:23 To: Fletcher Veitch Subject: Re: SAH tuned TR4A Hello Fletch, Thank you for writing me, I'm glad to find out additional information on my car, do you have any other details that you could share with me? The stories about it being raced came from the person I bought the car from, and I must admit it bears signs of having been driven hard. Would it be possible to scan any of the pictures you have of the car and send them to me? It would be a great bit of history to add to my website. The car is still BRG at this time, though I am thinking of painting it blue once the restoration is finished. Still has the Laycock OD. The interior is being redone in light tan, which should make it much more comfortable during the Arkansas summers. I did sell the wheels that it had, because I didn't feel I could trust 40 year old mageseium wheels on a daily driver, which is what I plan for the car when it's complete. I don't know anything about the TR3-A, but you could check the TR registry website (www.trregistry.com), they may have it listed if someone owns it. Also, you might join the Vintage Triumph Registry's mailing list and make inquires. It was great hearing from you, and if you have any interesting stories or information concerning Mr. Morten or my TR, I'd love to hear them. Thanks for writing, Raymond - - - < F. Veitch > wrote: Ray, I forwarded your email to Chris Smith who is Crawfords daughter. She may have more information including original purchase stuff. Crawford never raced it, but he was a very fast and skilled driver who used all of the cars capabilities on those lovely New York Adirondack roads. He was a fanatic about car care, so if it was damaged or not maintained it was by someone other than him. When I say fanatic, I mean just that - you had to see it to believe it. My TR3 which I got from him when it was 7 years of age looked and drove like a new car. I probably have 2 pictures which I will try and find and scan for you. The SAH was what the TR4A should have been - My 3 ran circles around my TR4A-IRS untill I ripped out the polution control crap and rejetted the carbs properly. Milage went back up to 27-28 MPG from about 23. Performance greatly enhanced. The 3 still kicked it's ass in an autocross, but that was an exceptional car and it didn't beat it by much. Best regards - good luck with the restoration. It doesn't seem like that car has been around over 40 years.... Fletch - - - -----Original Message----- From: Raymond Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 15:20 To: F. Veitch Subject: RE: SAH tuned TR4A Hi Fletch, Thanks for forwarding my email, one of the things I find fascinating about the car is the history - even with all the missing pieces. I really appreciate you helping to fill in the blanks. One thing I am very curious about the story about how Mr. Morten went to England and purchased the car, including getting the tuning from SAH. My guess was that he was in the service at the time, but it would be great to know what actually happened. I guess it's my turn to fill in the history after that, according to what I've been able to find out : Mr Morten sold the car to Ronnie Van Zuphen (sp?) sometime in the '70s. Ronnie drove it in New York for a number of years (and from your comments apparently abused it quite a bit), Then moved to Tupelo, MS. He continued to drive it, finally taking it off the road around 1980, disassembling it to restore it. That restoration effort never took off. The car was eventually sold to Russ Hepp of Birmingham, AL about 1995. Russ stored the car uncovered behind his restoration shop and never touched it, where it deteriorated quite a bit. I came along in 1999 and bought all the bits and pieces and brought them home. It's been a slow, agonizing process trying to resurrect the car, but I'm getting closer all the time to the day when it'll run again. At least now it's stored out of the weather and not deteriorating any more. I hope to have it running again by this coming spring. Thanks again for writing Raymond - - - - - - - - Message - - - - - From: F. Veitch To: Raymond Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006, 2:22:46 PM PDT Subject: RE: SAH tuned TR4A Ray, the SAH was a follow up to my TR3. Let me put things in sequence. Crawford was in the service - he was a Marine on Tinian during WW2 with the first Marine radar fielded. C came from a long line of military officers and West Point grads, his G/father being the longest continuously serving combat officer in the AUSA when he retired. He fought in every war from the opening skirmished of the Civil war through the end, was appointed to West Point, served in Texas and the Arizona territory and the indian wars under Gen Crooke and later in China, the Phillipeans and San Juan PR (Puerto Rico) . He was the combat officer (Br.Gen) who actually led the troops up San Juan hill after their CO was wounded and was unable to continue. (Note, there is no mention of TR there - we have the original transfer of command signed by all parties including TR. (Theodore Roosevelt ) His son retired a Col in the quartermaster corps. With this for a recent military history, you know Crawford was pushed into the Point where he ended flunking out to marry Christine's Mom. He ended up at Parris Island (South Carolina) as a DI (Drill Instructor) and then in the Pacific. He always loved performance cars and the Triumph string began with a Peerless GT, TR-3, Herald (side car) TR4A (SAH) and then a string of Mercedes. He worked for International Paper Co in Ticonderoga NY. He followed racing avidly, used to go to Europe to watch the GPs, and on one of these trips he picked the TR up, having ordered it prior to leaving. Keep me posted Fletch - - - So there we have it. First Contact, where the car was ordered, Chance's First owner and even an obtuse link to the American Presidency, plus second & third owners, and then Raymond.. the present custodian and now seller.. The pieces of its history are coming together ! And is possibly more complete than the car is itself ! Bfg
  12. History 101 . . . it's not about things, it is all about the people. In correspondence with this Tr4A's seller Raymond, I felt he was reluctant to tell me straight what the car's condition was, where things got lost along the way, and how things never worked out. Personally speaking I was disappointed that important aspects of the SAH 'enhancements' which made Chance a bit special - had been lost to the ravages of time or sold on (recycled-up !) but I came to accept that. It's all part of this particular car's history. I wrote to to Raymond to try and explain this, and also the fact that he himself ; Raymond L. Hatfield was now an inseparable part of that car's history. And then how their story is of great interest to the car's new owner (right now that'll be me, but in due course it will be someone else). I reasoned that times change, and what we once had was worth almost nothing.. And in line with the culture of the day we start to play around with things like our old cars. In his case, some 15 or 20 years ago - he hankered for a TR5. So when the original engine needed too much time and money spent on it - he decided to go with the straight-six lump. Thereafter the four-pot engine was kept, but essentially.. dumped in a back corner of the garage. Now me being me, I love the background story - so practically pleaded with him to pass on what he has. Today I received the first of several email correspondences. I thought you might enjoy reading it too.. Bfg. - - - Sent: Sunday, October 1, 2006, 9:55:58 AM PDT Subject: Emmett Crawford Morten Recently I heard from Fletcher Veitch (..the Nephew) - that you have my father-in-laws TR4. You can not believe how happy I am to know that the car is still around. In fact, a bunch of us here in Ticonderoga are thrilled. Fletch mentioned that you would like to know a little about Crawford. I could go on forever if you were here but you are not so I’ll just jot down some quick thoughts. After quitting West Point and getting married, Crawford moved to Ticonderoga and decided to buy a sports car. After much research he decided on a Peerless. It wasn’t too long when he discovered that the English had not mastered fiberglass and his cars had to always look good, so he made a deal for the dealer to take the car back and give him a TR3. LOADED. He loved it, so a bit later he sold it to his nephew Fletch, ordered a TR4 out of Rutland, Vt. (Russ Smith Auto), had it shipped to SAH, blue printed, and he flew to England to pick it up. He drove it around to a couple Formula One races and sent it back home. Let me describe Crawford….. Crawford was a big man, wicked smart, eccentric, and when he spoke, you listened. He loved cars, guns, wines, gourmet cooking, astronomy, and reading. He hated improper English but some four letters were quite OK. I am sure I am missing other hobbies of his. He was the 1955 US Muzzle Loading Pistol Champion. During the 1950’s and 60’s, he was know at Watkins Glen for his reciting of poems, songs and jokes. When the British told him that a carb did not fit his Land Rover, he went to his shop and milled a plate that made it fit. His Grandfather led the charge over San Juan Hill, not Roosevelt . It is a fact. Morten Salt ! Sterling Salt ! His relatives. Around Christmas he would drive his Land Rover to Md. , load the back with oysters and seaweed. I would get a call when he got back and we would deliver oysters to friends and relatives. They knew that they had to serve us a good wine or a single malt scotch. I could be made happy with a cheap beer but Crawford educated me differently. After Crawford’s funeral, we all went out to his farmhouse and had a party in his honor. Many people, many drinks, and many many Crawford stories. My wife is looking for pictures of the TR and her father for you but I got anxious. We will keep in touch. AND thank you. Terry Smith - - -
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