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Bfg

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    Westerfield, Suffolk, England, UK
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    1940's - 1980's motors & motorcycles. Older aircraft & waterborne craft. Design Engineering. Touring & camping (in decent weather), and generally being a grumpy old giffer ;-)

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  1. part 2. . ^ The trailer's lid with its down-turned flanges lifted off. Naturally the outside rim will be trimmed off, but the bridging paste isn't stiff enough to hold the shape ..so I'll need to fibreglass the inside first. ^ I cannot work in that heat (he says as it now piddles with rain) so yesterday evening I knocked up an 8ft x 10ft gazebo frame from 4"x2's (which I did have to buy ! ) ^ a decent work space ..shaded from the direct heat of the sun ..and/or a rain shower. Now back to work. . . ^ I want a generous radius on the outside corners ..and so I thought to fillet the inside before fibreglassing it, and then I'd cut the outside corner off. Blue tape seemed the easiest and cheapest way to achieve that inside radius. The glassfibre, chopped strand mat, I've delaminated to make it very thin, which will wet out with the resin so much easier, without having to work the air bubbles out. Just 2/3rds of the lid's sides were laminated at this stage, simply because those downturns needed holding squarer to shape. It's all guesswork at this point so I may have to cut and shove things later. The glass fibres were laminated into the corners, not layed out as the previous photo implies. This was allowed to mostly cure before the next layers were added.. ^ the wheel and two night storage heater bricks are just there to help hold the domed shape, so the fibreglassing I've done is limited to around those. But hopefully the side flanges will be at a sensible angle rather than too flared out. We'll see ! That's it for today, as said above it's now raining and the gazebo (with a cheap Wickes 4 x 5m tarp) is presently keeping things dry. Tomorrow I'd like to at least get the corner radius and first layer of glassfibre along the remaining one and half sides, Bidding you a good evening, Pete
  2. Update .. ^ the main body tub's corner fibreglassing was eventually done, inbetween rain showers. All the small angle brackets were removed and so there's just 4 screws and body washers in each of the four side, and the grp is doing the rest ..and those screws will most likely be removed once everything has cured for a month. ^ corner detail revealing the construction. ^ the bathroom scales tell me the tub is about 43.5kg. The seat support is not in yet, nor are the inner wheel arches, but then the round wheel arch cut-outs also have not been cut yet either. My target for all-up-weight was 100kg, so with 30kg of wheels and suspension, plus the chassis I fear I'm likely to be over the top. That's just part of the price of using recycled material rather than choosing thinner. Time to move onto making a lid. of course I never do things the easy way do I !! ^ speaks for itself ..doesn't it ? ^ a left-over sheet of bendy plywood, pulled down over the surrey top roof and battens as I try to created a slightly domed top. ^ a couple of layers of fibreglass over the plywood (bonding to it) to try and hold that shape. Unfortunately I mucked this up when trying to fibreglass in direct and very hot sunlight, and also running out of resin ! Pete you are a clot sometimes ! ^ I made another length of corner radius using the same mould. Ideally that should have been 12 -15mm larger radius ..but needs must. ^ I went back to the boat and found some more plywood (1/8" thk) ..which used to be the headlining in a forward cabin. That's been remodeled for greater headroom and so this wood was again surplus to requirements. I cut it into four strips 110mm wide (because that was the extent of the plywood) and using 8mm battens (from the skip) cut to length as spacers I glued those four strips up n' under the domed lid. ^ corners likewise glued into place with the bridging paste. ^ working in direct sun and such high temperatures wasn't working ..so I tried to jury rig something like a tailgate awning. But that didn't work because it was too small. Heat stopped play.. but you can see the trailer lid's overlapping flanges taking shape. More to come. Pete
  3. Sunday 11th ; a little bit of tarting up . . . ^ As bought, and you can see my replacement wheels look pretty tidy, however you might also get an indication of the (minor) cosmetic damage ..not least from being put down on concrete and leaned against a brick wall (by the seller) ! Typically their condition was a little chipped around the edges and where balancing weight clips had ripped off the clear lacquer and the odd area of surface rust . . . ^ This and another wheel had black specks (more apparent in life than in this photo) and a couple of places needing a little cleaning up inside and around the tyre rim. Overlaid paint where necessary was single pack ; Zinc + a couple coats of metallic paint + clear lacquer. Hopefully this should keep rust at bay at least for the lifespan of their new tyres. The worse condition wheel was what was presumably latterly used as the spare . . . ^ this had no lacquer on it, the rim edges were each well and truly chipped and with surface rust, and the inside (after cleaning) was again craving a little tlc. I've only done a quick job of washing with detergent, wire brushing the chips and rusty areas and giving a good wipe over with thinners, before rattle can painting . . . ^ without even rubbing them down in preparation ..it's only a tarting up job, but I think respectable enough, and a close match to the others, to use on the car as is. Actually this wheel is in really good shape, and better than another, so I think I will use it on the road rather than as the spare. That's all for today. I'll let the paint harden for a day or two and then have the new tyres fitted and balanced. Just a little progress ..but in the right direction. Bidding you a pleasant Sunday evening, Pete.
  4. GT6 Mk3 wheels are indeed nice looking . . . ^ 13" on the GT6, whereas the TR4 has 15" wheels. I'd not noted those hub centres before though, so I'll have to see if they might possibly be made to fit the TR's wheels. Pete.
  5. Friday update from Mark., showing the replacement outer sill now welded in place, which will hopefully align the door to sill and door to wing gaps very much better. . . Next he says " Will get filler work done, re-prime and seal joints" Mark is now away for 10 days holiday, so his team will be getting on with this, and getting the door and panels, including the bonnet, back on and adjusted as correct as they might (..without getting into reshaping the doors or wings). Then it's things like the rear lights, gearbox tunnel cover, and a dozen or two of minor details, plus of course wax injecting inside the structure, to ready the car for collection on or soon after the 20th. For budgetry reasons, I'll paint the sill and the door shuts when I get the car back here. Again it's looking good, but now it'll be much better held together, which of course relates both to safety, the general feel of driving the car ...and to lessening the number of rattles ! Two more new Continental tyres arrived here yesterday so I now have a full set of five.! Those are to fitted and balanced onto the pressed steel wheels I bought. And I'll take these up with me when I go to collect Katie and will swap them over before we drive back. I once bought a pair of motorcycle tyres (at the same time), but this is the first time I've ever bought a full set, or owned a car with new tyres all around. I guess I really ought to contact the insurance company to advise them of the chassis mods too ..and possibly to discus a change in insured value. Bidding you a good weekend ..and some nice weather ? Pete.
  6. M&T are Wolverhampton, not many miles from J.10 on the M6, so quite easy to get to even though I'm on the other side of the country. How far they are from Middle Bottom I really couldn't say ! Mark and his team are old school and so don't strike me as having a website, let alone a glitzy one. And if they did then they'd soon get annoyed at junk mail and non-specific enquiries. They get their work through repeat custom and recommendation. If you think you might use them PM me and I'll send you their email address and phone number. Re. PU foam, I'm guessing the prior owner used cavity wall insulation in these sills 20 years ago, and not the stuff used in car manufacturing today, but otherwise I'd say your summary of the hoped-for concept would be correct. I might also confirm that it didn't fill the cavity tightly enough to keep water out. On the contrary it prevented air circulation via the big vent holes through the inner-sill panel ..and so contributed towards the corrosion. I'm very glad the car was 'cherished' inside a dry integral garage these past 22 years, otherwise Katie would have been in a terrible state by now. cheers, Pete
  7. Thanks Dean, ^ I'm going to fit these in place of the wire wheels. They're lighter weight than wire wheels, and tend to run truer and balance better. And just as importantly for me is that I want to tone down the flashy look of my (bright red sports) car. ^ The standard pressed steel wheels on a 4A, with no hubcaps look more purposeful to me. I do have a set of half decent chromed hubcaps, with the Triumph globe emblem on them, which I do like on the earlier TR4 ..so I have the option once I see them on the car, but my present thinking is without ..and possibly without the bumpers too. As you can see the wheels do have the studs for mounting hubcaps, and so there are four holes missing. I'm want to try sticking a black disk in those places so they'll then look more like the Dunlop Jaguar D-type wheels I so like (very similar used on the MGA twin cam cars which had pressed in holes rather than straight punched).
  8. Good morning all, earlier in the week, Katie was reassembled enough to have been restarted again. I did have a call from Mark to clarify elements of this car's non-standard wiring. This came down to a stray earth wire not having been noted when the car was stripped, and the hi-torque starter motor having its own solenoid, so the original one on the bulkhead is redundant but for its role as a connection (all wires going onto one just terminal). Later in the day he had the car driving around the yard, albeit without panels or door on the near side. That was to check the functional operation of everything mechanical, fluid and electrical. The very uneven (14mm top - 3mm bottom) near-side door gap was where I'd started my investigation, which led me to note the cracked chassis. With the body tub now correctly fitted to a solid chassis, Mark and his team are tackling that side's sill.. it having rust, being in slightly the wrong place, it being detached from the foot-well side panel, the A-post and B-posts, and its rear corner gusset plate being cracked. . . We made the decision to cut this side's outer sill off ..to see what, if anything else, needed repair or replacing. ^ 20 years ago, was polyurethane foam (cavity wall insulation) thought to help keep water out, and so rust at bay ? ..or was it in there as an attempt to stiffen the structure, or to lessen noise transmission ? ^ The front end cap had rusted through and then of course any road-water spray goes inside the sill. The car's footwell / floors have a down-turned flange which serves as the lower half of the inner sill, and being thin sheet steel that's been welded - is a place to rust quickly. From under the car it didn't look at all too bad, but I knew they would need cleaning up and probably patching sometime soon. There was of course under-seal to conceal the worse. I do hate that stuff. Mark sent me these photos yesterday evening together with the note ; " Removed old sill, door jam stiffener and end caps, cleaned up edges and inner sill treated and etch primed. As thought it will require bottom 1 inch on inner sill and rear pillar bottom repairing but other edges all pretty good." Having seen what was what he could then give me a fixed cost for this work. We spoke this morning to confirm what was needed. . . ^ I don't have the budget to replace everything and so the bottom 1" or so of the down-turned flange will be replaced with new steel, as will other localised areas. The rest mostly cleaned up OK, and so M&T are treating them for rust and applying etch primer. ^ a replacement outer sill, end caps and rear corner gusset will be fitted. These are better quality replacement parts rather than NOS original Stanparts ..which are beyond my budget. Mark sounded surprisingly confident that they'll be able to get the sill and door gaps as even as the other side, which he says are just a little big but within 1mm or so of being even. I'll be very happy with that ..as it avoids their reshaping panels, including the doors &/or wings, which of course would soon run up the costs and necessitate repainting too. Mark is on holiday next week, for one week, but this and other finishing up tasks will done by their team while he is away. All being well we're looking at the car being done and ready for collection or about the 20th of this month. Pete.
  9. Having fibreglassed the front end of this trailer's box, and now standing up-ended on that - I removed both the (previously just screwed-down) rear panel and the inside seat support ..so that I might have access to laminate inside there. ^ This in turn provided the facility to more easily reach down (rather than contort around inside) to laminate the underside length of the seat to side panels. That went well ..inbetween rain showers on Monday. But again rain stopped play earlier than I might have liked. Yesterday I was determined to get one with this supposedly quick job, even though that meant I had to stop every 45 minutes to put rain covers over it . . . ^ Rear panel seen refitted ..now onto the bridging-paste adhesive. And the grp corner panels trimmed for final fit. Again a clamped-in-place cross-brace was used to prevent the side's top corners from flaring out, and the weight of a 10ltr paint container positioned to keep the top-corner of the end-panel bowed-in while I bonded that grp corner in place.. By 3:30pm this was done on both left and right hand rear corners inbetween each (four or five) wave of heavy rain shower and the next wave of black cloud was looming overhead. ^ Inside filleting with the fibreglass bridging paste, in preparation for when I glassfibre laminate over it. There's a lot of physical contortion to working inside these corners, But for all the exercise ..I don't feel any the fitter for it ! - - - "I fought the law ..and the law won" .. but the laws of nature did conspire against me ! with weather fronts blowing in very quickly & without pity swirling all around, and gravity being a fickle helper who at one moment helped hold panels to their curved shape ..and/or the plastic rain covers in place .. to then suddenly swap sides to work with the weather who had cunningly made various shiny surfaces wet n' slippery. Together they highlighted what a right plonker I can be sometimes ! ..especially in those last minutes as the next wave of rain starts and I'm desperately trying to keep the end-grain of plywood dry . . . ^ (Previously) unopened brilliant white wall and ceiling paint 10L. Barely used masonary paint 5L. Neither lid came off, both cracked open. And just to spite me the black clouds flew by without unloading a single drip, and the sun came out to dry the paint quickly. I know.. it couldn't have happened to a nicer chap ! And no, since moving to an apartment.. I don't have empty pots which I might have used filled with water, instead of full-of paint ones ! I scooped the paint up as quickly as I could into two waste bins and then rushed off to get the garden hose out. Some of the paint had already started to dry into the concrete slabs, so it wouldn't just brush away with the broom. Just then the heavens now decided to open. It bucketed it down. I donned rain coat, and with garden hose in one hand and cordless drill with wire brush in the other was standing their in the rain trying to clean this mess up. Three hours of back breaking effort and the patio looks clean again. There was splatter on the walls but I spotted most and its all but gone now. 15L of premium paint..that was a costly learning experience. This morning. . nicely scrubbed (wire brushed !) patio. It's not raining ..and now the sun has the audacity to show it's face ! ..but I'm too knackered and feeling somewhat fkd off and with definite inclinations towards having a bonfire - so I'm taking the day off to bang my head against a wall. Hope your day was better than mine. Hey, it's just part and parcel of any job or ' hobby ' conducted out in the fresh air (fibreglass dust and fumes aside). And I'll be back bright and bushy tailed tomorrow .. you'll see. Bidding you a good'n Pete.
  10. However .. inbetween times I did get a good start on fibreglassing over the joints. . . ^ not at all the neatest of jobs but ...I could cite at least a dozen reasons why.. blah, blah, blah. I'm hoping it'll clean up enough to not be too shabby inside. Structurally just this front-end of the box is now (mostly) bonded together. I yet need to lay a strip of grp on the underside corners of the plywood panels. The laminate schedule is just two lays of 600g chopped strand mat coming up the panels 40mm. The first strip is actually a little less width than the second so that the edges are feathered out. - - - While waiting for the overnight's rain to dry out, and then again when we had a flash downpour I was back onto the computer to change the design ..just a little . . . ^ The top illustration is as it was previously, with the bottom corners, front and back, cut off / mitred to a 45-degree angle. This was done to make the trailer appear visually lighter. However those corners cut through the floor, so either end of that panel would likewise have to be cut and tilted up ..which would take another day or two of work. The bottom illustration shows those corners revised, curving the side panels up ..to the bottom of the floor panel, and gives the box a much softer look. I think I prefer the deliberately more utilitarian look, as it used to be ..but not enough to make the extra work worthwhile. Right.., the sun has come out - so back to work. Pete.
  11. a picture speaks a thousand words . .
  12. i understand where you're coming from. But surely it can't be that big a deal otherwise you would have done this. ? I more dislike small wheels and their low mudguards sticking out ..below the sight eye line through the mirrors.
  13. Slow progress since Thursday. It was extremely hot here on Friday and bonding of the panels didn't go at all well. Sometimes things just don't happen right even when you're used to the process and the materials being used. What happened was obviously my fault (..there's simply no-one else to blame when you work alone ! ) and it started off with my trying to straighten the bowed (recycled remember) floor and seat panels ..after all at some time it'll have to sit onto a chassis. I mostly did this straightening with a couple of length of 1-1/2" square timber, clamped in place. I then set about gluing the first side panel on. I'm using polyester resin / glass-fibre bridging filler to bond the panels together and the first mix was too hot. It started to cure before I had the panel screwed back in place. I then over compensated with the next mix ..and that obstinately refused to cure .. despite the heat conspiring to dribble sweat into my eyes. This second mix was supposed to squeeze out of the joint ..and then I'd simply run a finger along the inside joint corners to create a fillet. However the extra timber ..to straighten out the floor's bows stopped me getting my hand in to those corners. duh ! I did get the two sides on, which is half the amount I'd hoped to achieve, but hey., life ain't often a summers day with strawberries and cream ..is it.? Anyways up, the bxxxs-ups weren't irretrievable, just ugly and a bit of a gap where there shouldn't have been. Thankfully most of the gap is where the wheel-arch will be cut ..so i'll just ignore it. Most of the ugliness cleaned up with an hour of scraping and sanding . . . ^ the green is the bridging filler shaped as a fillet along the joint between the seat and the side panel. As this filler has glass fibres in the mix - it's pretty tough. The fillets, on both sides of the panel will soon be over laid with grp. That will then be a strong joint. Today, I fitted the front panel and again filleted those joints. It went much better today, and then just as I was setting things up to similarly bond the front corners in place - we had a thunderstorm and everything was quickly dumped into my sitting room. It was just 4 o'clock, and a little frustrated at the slow progress of this trailer - I wasn't ready to stop . . . ^ yep this inside my home, car wheels, garage rack of bits n' bobs and tools ..and now my fibreglassing a trailer body in the middle of the floor Don't tell Frank ..the landlord. ^ clamps holding things in place while I applied the sticky stuff. The flat panels are pulled in and held there by the screws into the edge of the seat & floor level plywood. However the top edge of the sides had nothing to stop them springing straighter, so the assortment of clamps, battens and wedges are to pull those top corners into line. ^ The box trailer's two front corners have now been bonded and filleted on their inside. I just hope the adhesion is strong enough to not spring / split open again before I manage to get some glass-fibre mat laid over it. Perhaps I'll get that done tomorrow. So that's it for tonight ..Time for a cuppa and to cook some supper. Chicken and chips I reckon. Pete.
  14. Friday update from Mark and his Team . . . ^ drain pipe fitted and led through the front wheel-arch splash closure. x4 wing fitting kits include new bolts, the correct clip-nuts & seals. ^ Door hanging and panel alignment, relative to the sill and each other. The check strap has been replaced and it now clicks to hold the door open. That's a nice bonus ^ Chassis rear legs are sitting evenly level, both relative to datum floor and to the rear valance panel. I might add that a whole bundle of work has happened ..but was barely noticed or reported on, such as correctly greasing each suspension and steering pivot and their reassembly with new bolts ..fitted with coppaslip. Similarly refitting the whole IRS drive-train and the brakes happened in a blink - even though the cut-short wire-wheel studs were replaced, which necessitated the brake calipers coming off. Those have of course been refitted as have the hydraulic systems. And when did any of those jobs just take five-minutes ! ? All in all steady progress has, and is constantly being made, but most of that work is in the smaller details. I'm really glad to have a conscientious mechanic, who is experienced with TR's, ensure things are in both good order and done correctly. Bidding you a good weekend, Pete.
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