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Bfg

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    Westerfield, Suffolk, England, UK
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    1940's - 1980's motors & motorcycles. Older aircraft & waterborne craft. Design Engineering. Touring & camping (in decent weather), and generally being a grumpy old giffer ;-)

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  1. Cant be that 'leaky a Bfg roof' if 'the interior is lovely' ...can it ?
  2. ..from the TR Register forum Thanks Stuart, that's very useful to know. I would have been guessing around 11mm to allow 1mm for tolerance, but 10mm is still probably 4mm more than it had been trimmed to before. ^ The nature of working with fibreglass is that I've deliberately extended the flange quite a bit more (that's seen as cyan blue ..as it's not cured yet). I trim it off when cured to the width required. ^ I had hoped to do a bit more this evening, but my resin is well passed its best. I'll get out to buy some fresh tomorrow, as it'll make the task a dozen times easier than trying to wet out this old stuff. Up the B-post section I've laminated x3 additional layers of 450g chopped-strand glass over the window-rubber flange. There's just one across the inside width. The flange facing into the car (seen here, facing towards the bottom clamp in the photo) isn't critical but I've reinforced over where the section of frame had ripped out. The masking tape and weight is only there to stop the edge of that laminate from lifting, which glass fibres tends to do when bent over a 90 degree corner. Finished early .. so it's time for a cuppa Pete
  3. Life is grinding sometimes, and there's not much worse than grinding fibreglass ..as its dust (minute glass fibres) gets in places you really don't like it to. nevertheless, like many an unpleasant task it has to be done, and done carefully and well. Neither filler paste nor fibregalss resin will stick well unless you cut the crap of the surface and score it. So that was my start for today ..fortunately the weather's turned for the better and I can now work in the garden. ^ at the bottom front corners (the B-post) of this backlight frame is where the first, and arguably the most important fastening goes. However the quality of production can be seen in the crack around it. From the above ; it's apparent that someone was trying to bond onto the top of a polished moulding (not even keyed). From the underside it's not looking much better . . . ^ here the bond is gel onto a single thickness of lightweight fibreglass. When (carefully cleaning this corner out I broke through to the outside. The panel really is that thin. Once clean, I masking tape on the other side, and prised the crack open to apply filler paste. ^^ The other side wasn't as bad, but it was also cracked. As I say these are the most critical mounts to hold the back window onto the car, so I've reinforced them with fibreglass laminate. . . ^ That same left hand side ..and then similarly ^^ the right hand side. Each now has chopped strand mat + x2 layers of woven glassfibre mat. Naturally, I'll need to redrill the holes and retrim the bottom edges once the resin has thoroughly cured. Btw the row of clamp seen in the first photo are an attempt to straighten that bottom edge. They are pulling the fibreglass out to a steel ruler. Irrespective of having no core to help prevent this frame from twisting, the thickness of the fibreglass leaves something to be desired. . . ^ Across the top of the frame - the fibreglass flange, which holds the rear window glass in, is with gelcoat + paint about 1mm thick. ^^ Around the rear bottom edge and inner and outer moulding together with its bonded brings that thickness to 3mm.. the glazing rubber is of course for the thicker dimension, which is presumably why it leaked and needed copious amounts of black mastic to seal. ^ The depth of the seal to fit along that flange is 12mm deep. ^^ The second photo shows that same depth relative to the flange itself. This was why, when I first tried fitting this surrey-top the glass kept pulling out at the top. When I made my fibreglass surrey-top lid(s) I made a very stiff T-bar to hold the frame back to prevent the glass from popping out. Now I'll try to rectify the real problem. Lunch over, time for some more fibreglassing. Pete
  4. Addendum . . . ^ with the second break ( ..just outside the through-hole for the surrey lid's fastening) glass paste bonded - the frame is now back together and self supporting. Next up, I wanted to repair, again with the glass-fibre paste) the gelled corners which had ripped out with the glazing mastic. Likewise the gelcoat's stress cracks ..like the one you might just see (above - bottom left) adjacent to the top (step) of the B-post. Nothing to do but prise the broken piece out, grind out the cracked gel under the surface, and rebuild it with something a bit more structural ..in this case the glass-fibre filler paste. ^ not a very clear photo, but you might assess the hard edge corner moulding along the top of the rear window surround is slowly coming back into shape. The shadow-line is not too bad but there's still a bit more to do. However, next up I'll structurally reinforce the frame ..from its inside / under side with glass fibre laminate. Repairing fibreglass is not difficult ..although a bit of care n' attention goes into realignment of the broken bits. But still its time consuming because the polyester resin needs to cure in-between further handling. If such a flimsy frame is handled to soon or too ham-fistedly there a good chance of its bond being compromised. That's it for tonight. Have a good evening. Pete
  5. More of the same ol' . . . ^ Cleaning the inside and ends of the backlight frame with a power wire brush ..to give a good key to the filler paste. ^ dry run to see how I might clamp the broken out piece in position. And gluing one part of the joint with the glass-fibre filler paste. ^ I 'green trimmed' the surplus, that is with a craft knife blade as the filler was still curing but not yet hard. It save a lot of time later, and in worse case situation I would have seen if I'd got the alignment very wrong. In which case I'd have broken it before the filler cured and started again. As it is, as best I can see it's close enough to continue with. Stop for a cuppa to let that cure a bit before I do the same with the other end of this broken frame. Pete
  6. Minor but nevertheless useful progress this afternoon. However it started like this ! . . . Box of screws, tippled from the shelf above and I caught it just in time ..but for a few pots stacked on top of others. I have lots of pots of screws, some stainless, some countersunk, others raised, some cheese headed, wood screws and self tappers, cross head, straight cut, you name it I've probably got some, sorted out into individual pots. And then I have all sorts of bolts, nuts, set screws, .. many of different sizes and different treads, as well as locking washers, plain washers. And of course I have pots of clips, and bleed nipples, springs and trim clips.. So I was really lucky that only these screws fell to the floor. The fact that they caught the rubbish bin was unfortunate but again not the end of the world as we know it.. Moving on. . . ..to the polytunnel and broken bits of fibreglass... Before I can repair - I need to get rid of the mastic. Five minute job ? in your dreams. The black goo had excellent adhesion and wonderful elasticity.. Fibreglass is an incredibly useful material for making things from, but it is not the easiest stuff to get clean once it's been painted and gooed. The issue may be identified in its other common name 'glass reinforced plastic' .. it's the plastic which prevents chemical cleaning or seriously abrasive techniques to be applied. It's lightweight and not very tough to clamp down, so even holding it is less than easy. Still with craft knife to slice and shave much of the mastic off, followed by a choice of scraper, followed by shaved wire-wool I finally got there. ^ The inside ..where the rear fastening for the surrey top lid goes through, was painted over. This is commonly done by the fibreglassing business to 'finish' the raw mat so that it looks better value to the paying customer. I power-wire-brushed that off to reveal the thin layer of glass-fibres and otherwise gel. So cleaned, this part was ready for the first stage of 'repair' . . . The end of this was cracked most of the way across, so I opened up the crack and spread it with polyester glass filler. Which is like body filler but instead of filler-power it has very fine glass fibres. Because those glass fibres are exceptionally strong in tension, this filler paste, if it adheres well is also very strong. The random alignment of those fibres means that it doesn't crack very easily in any direction. Where the gel had been inside against the cup for the lid's fastening, I spread some more as reinforcement. Now all I needed to do was to hold it to the right shape . . . I'd dry run with the clamps.. in this instance a strategically placed car battery, (formerly in my Chrysler diesel) which itself was being held down by the wedge of grips under the wall shelves. The clamp (sort used to secure the tarps over market traders stands) on the side holds the flange straight for that short section, with the slightly curved tail of it hanging off the side of the shelf. That's it for tonight. As I said not a lot but still useful to have this piece strong enough to be glued back into place in the backlight frame. The essential thing at the moment is maintaining its shape and dimension. If I'd let this end break off then the finished width of the backlight would have been very much more difficult to get right. ^ a close up of the work. It looks pretty awful but it'll clean up. You'll note on the left hand side a fine hairline crack. That is all the way through and was opened up to spread this adhesive inside. As you can see it's closed up nicely under the weight of the car battery and upper cabinet. It'll be left to fully cure overnight. So.. time for a cuppa.. Bidding you a good evening, Pete
  7. ^ It's March and in anticipation of using the more frequently this summer ..I'm back at it.. This time working in the barn. Although too spacious and draughty to heat, it's a useful workspace surrounded by quiet and attractive Suffolk countryside. ^ Since the chassis swap I've never been happy with the springs and the suspension's ride height, I swapped them before from those M&T fitted and it helped but it still wasn't right. Although good for country lane driving - the car has a tendency to float at high motorways speeds (as if the front wheels are lifting). So.., out with the springs also supplied by M&T and back in with the springs the car came with, as bought. . . ^ I seem to recall comparing the length and compression of the black springs when I fitted them. I reasoned that the black ones, having a greater number of coils would have been softer, but that was not the case. Using a pile of storage heater bricks to do that, they each compressed the same amount under the same load. ^ After a 10 mile test drive the car looks to be sitting the same as it was before, but a high speed run down the A12 left me with the impression that it is now directionally more stable. I checked the car's tracking and it was spot on. I'll leave it as it is and see how i get on with it over a period of time. - - - Moving on to the next task.. ^ Some may recall my mentioning that I made the mistake of driving the car with the front (TR6) clamp of the Surrey top lid being undone. This was back in November when I was running out in the car to try its different seats. Tucked away under the sun visor I didn't notice the clamp was undone ..until WHAM the half lid suddenly opened as I was accelerating up to open dual-carriageway speeds and slammed down onto the boot lid. The force was enough to bend the 1/4" screw, rear fastening, but thankfully despite the noise - the roof and boot lids were barely marked. The fibreglass backlight frame however was ripped apart as it was twisted 180-degrees back on itself. If the rear screen rubber had not been gooed in with some sort of structural black mastic - I guess the roof panel with this section fibreglass would have flown off to pose a threat to following traffic. I was furious at myself at the time, but in retrospect can see how fortunate I was. ^ This weekend, with my lid's T-bar first removed, I released the trim for access to the backlight's fastenings. ^ it's a long time since I last saw her topless. ^ The barn is useful but it's also a 20 mile round trip from home, so I've brought the backlight home to work on it. Although where I now live has an integral garage, I won't want to be grinding glassfibre in it. So my first task was to cut the lawn and then tidy and clear my garden shed / polytunnel as a workspace. The lawn seemed the safest place to remove the glass. Before doing anything else I indexed the distance (cut marks) either side of the damage with a hacksaw. ^ The damage looks no better in the daylight ! I had to cut through the mastic to get the glass out. It's now been set aside for safety. I would not be at all chuffed if I were to drop it on a paving slab. ^ Moving to a more comfortable working height, the glassfibre now unsupported by the glass is only held in place by threads of vinyl trim on the inside and the black mastic which was used to hold and seal across the top of the glazing rubber. ^Removing the vinyl was what I imagine skinning a snake would be like. The black mastic could only be cut away. As you can see, even through the paint its bond was strong enough to rip the corner of the fibreglass out. ^ The quality of fibreglassing is appalling, insomuch as the hard corners have no glass in them at all. I think just clear gelcoat had been used to fill the corners of this frame ..which is not at all structural. Inside that is a very thin layer of fibreglass chopped strand mat. I guess it did its job. Or at least it did after I fitted a T-bar ..to prevent it twisting, but for the price charged for these things I would have liked to have seen better. Unless someone has a backlight frame going ..that I might afford to buy - my task is now to try and fix it. It'll be 'a challenge' to do it well ..sort of like trying to mend a broken and chipped vase. Rainy weather yesterday and today is not helping motivation, but it needs to be done. Pete
  8. Moggy Minor driver parked so close to the Bentley that its driver wouldn't be able to open his door
  9. Tuning the twin SU carbs.. very easy when its explained . . .
  10. Yesterday rain stopped play, so this afternoon I sought to find out why the Daimler's heater barely worked. It was like that when I bought the car, and I hoped my replacing the heater matrix would have fixed it ..which it didn't. The workshop manual is very unclear as to how the control cables are meant to be connected, but does have a useful flow diagram to show how the heater box is supposed to work. Unfortunately it doesn't also show the control levers . . . ^ This illustration is drawn with the bulkhead to the Left. Top left indicates the fresh-air intake, via the scuttle top vent, in the same manner as on Katie my Triumph TR4. This heater box then has a flap through the bottom (hinged at green dot) ..which when opened lets the air flow into the footwells 'To CAR INTERIOR ' . If that is flap is closed ; the air instead goes to the screen demisters. This heater box also has a control flap in the centre. It's hinge (purple dot) is just beside the bottom corner of the heater matrix. When the flap is set to its horizontal position ; the air-intake flows through the matrix, picking up heat from the engine's coolant water. And.. when the flap is levered 10-degrees passed the vertical ; the air-flow through the matrix is blocked (by the flap) and the cool fresh air (dotted line) is diverted straight into the car. Again this is controlled by the bottom flap to direct the (cool) air to either screen demist or into the footwells. A half-open position would of course allow some air into the vents and some in to footwells. OK, now let's see outside the box, to look at the control levers which courtesy of bowden cables operate those flaps . . . ^ using my phone as a camera = not a very good picture I'm afraid.. However you can see (bottom centre) the heater's water control valve. This is simply a tap which either allows engine coolant / hot water to flow through the heater matrix or not. As with any tap, it can be set in a part open position ...to regulate the flow (of hot water). A bowden cable (seen curved) is from the car's dashboard. It operates / regulates this hot water-valve. What looks to be a very straight cable (seen above the curved bowden cable) is actually a rod. This simply links the lever on the the water-control-valve to the operating lever of that centre air-flow flap. As it happens, I'd put this back as it was (yes, I'd photographed it before disassembly). And it didn't work because.. it's wrong. Instead of that rod going to the lever arm sticking out of the top of the water-control-valve ..it should be going to the lever underneath (next to the bowden cable). As it was (with the rod linked to the lever at the top)... When the water control valve was opened (letting hot water into the matrix), the rod ..linking to the centre flap, closed off the air flow.. So, the water in the matrix was hot but the air-flow was diverted around it. Conversely when the water valve was closed (no hot water in the matrix) the lever / link rod switched the centre air-flow flap - to direct the air through the matrix. So, no hot water and cold air-flow going through it .. into the car's interior. Half way open and there is a whiff of warmth but the cold air flow is predominate. As I say, the workshop manual is spectacularly unclear as to where the link rod should be attached, but through deductive reasoning etc.. I reconnected the link-rod to the water control valve's underneath lever. Even more of a pain-in-the-twisted-wrist to get to, but when so connected and tested - IT NOW WORKS ! That'll teach me to (not ) put things back in the same place as I found them ! That's All Folks.. ...for tonight.
  11. Yesterday I drove up to my friend and fellow Triumph enthusiast, Mathew, in Norfolk. Avoiding the A14 roadworks around Stowmarket I instead headed north across country to Diss and then Thetford, through parts of its namesake forest. Aside from getting caught behind the occasional truck or tractor, the roads up there can be remarkably clear. And then across the fenlands remarkably wobbly where the roads have subsided. Hey-up, the car is for cruising at a comfortable rather than fast pace, and I do enjoy driving this car in that vein. The purpose of my visit ..aside from to see a nice fella, drink tea and eat bacon sarnies, and help him unload yet another GT6 body shell and chassis he'd recently bought, was to chose a colour . . . I'm a person who usually dresses in dark blue when I go out, and for the past 25 years drove a metallic blue Chrysler Voyager. Jaguar-Daimler did a beautiful metallic cyan (little-boy) light blue metallic, and I was very tempted to go for that. However this car's seats are ox-blood red and I don't think the red and blue are a happy compliment. And then again that lovely light blue colour is as common among these Daimlers as Triumph TR4's are in red. I went back and forth with what colour to choose, I like the black but I wanted something that was not so dark ..as it shows every finger print and every splatter of dirt and speck of dust. And not too grey (devoid of colour) and again common-place on the Jaguars. In the end - I put aside my favourite colours and tried to choose one that would best suit this particular car ..with its range of tone highlighted or deepened in shadows of its curvy shape. My decision, for good or for bad, was to look for a Terry Wogan beige ..metallic (aka gold). This, to me, would go well with the red seats, and it is quite unusual nowadays to see a nice n' shiny gold car. The Mk.II Jaguars and Daimlers were offered in gold with red interior ..and so I'd not be drifting too far from standard colour schemes, but on the other hand I was quite certain that Jaguar's 'opalescent golden sand' wasn't exactly what I sought. I had a very similar experience with my 1950's sunbeam motorcycle, which was opalescent silver-grey. But when I removed a rear lamp housing on that bike, to discover original un-bleached colour - I found it too bluish-grey It looked very similar to light grey primer. And yet the paint which had been exposed to the sunlight over many years had yellowed with age to become more of a nickel-silver. The bluish silver looked too modern a colour for a 1950's motorcycle. So I had the respray paint matched to the sun tinged colour ..and it looks fabulous ..and vintage. That's what I'm hoping to achieve with this Daimler. Not the paint maker's version of a standard gold, but my own mind's-eye version of what a 1960's Daimler ought to be. To tie this down - I'd bought five different tints of gold (mixed samples, each of 100mg ), and I posted those up to Mathew to produce car panel samples from which I might make my final choice from. He used Triumph Spitfire doors for those samples, which I could lean up against the car or lay flat on the floor. Of the five colours I had mixed ; two were Jaguar colours, another was from an American manufacturer, another from Daewoo, and then a custom colour (scanned from a sample card). The jaguar colours were the first I rejected. One was a tarnished-copper shade of gold, which I could well imagine an XK120 painted in. In my mind there are some colours which just seem to cry "art deco / late 1940's". The other Jaguar gold ..the 'opalescent golden sand, was almost silver but with a greenish-gold tinge. I think it would look good on an XJ8 or F-type. The three shortlisted you can see above in the sunshine, I turned at different angles to the sun, viewed again when it was cloudy, and yet again (below) placed in the shade of Mathew's dark grey Ford.. . . Of course the colours reflect some of their surroundings, and again look different under the LED strip lights in his garage. They look different on the telephone or computer screen. This is why I wanted to see car panels sample painted.. It's going to cost a whole lot of money to have this car painted, inside and out, and I'd really like to choose the right colour ..for me and for the car. I made my decision. We then looked at the paint can, to see which I'd chosen, it was the the custom colour. Mathew was not help because he likes the light blue metallic. Possibly, as a designer, my eyes have been tuned to see more subtle variation than others, or perhaps I'm just old and going colour blind ..and what I'm seeing as gold is to anyone else florescent rotten-egg green ! Anyway., job done ..and it was time for me to trundle home again. The Daimler's heater definitely needs some adjustment, but the engine's cooling system worked great ..as did the makeshift expansion tank. It was a good day, and I can only hope the car comes out looking really nice ..but only time will tell. Bidding you a good day Pete
  12. some weeks later.. it's time for an update... Daimler / Jaguar heat box ... Carrying on from having cleaned off the surface rust, epoxy priming it and painting the outsides semi-gloss black, my next task was to replace the foam seals around the opening vent, on the box's underside. This is the one that opens up the air flow into the footwells. Then having refitted the non-standard fan motor (as previously described, with it sitting on a thick rubber washer) I proceeded to refit the heater matrix. The inside of the heater box had no padding for the matrix to sit upon, so I added sticky back neoprene strips. ..which I thought would be a good idea as there are no fastening to actually hold it in place, save the rubber water pipe connection and the heater valve connection. The heater matrix is now a snug fit inside its box with just the two pipe connections poking through the lid of this box. Next up was to refit (glue in place) the sound insulation pad which goes behind the heater box. This was in good condition and so reusable, as was the thick foam-rubber doughnut, which seals between the box and the bulkhead. I also re-cut the edge-frayed insulation pad off the front of the box to go on the end. Originally it was only half covered, but now as you can see I've extended it to also be under the vent-flap springs. Neoprene foam strip was again used around the footwell vent flap and around the tow round holes which feed air to the face vents. Because the car is going in for a full respray I didn't bother too much cleaning up the bulkhead. Only really wanting to get rid of the old and perished foam seals. They probably had a design lifespan of 10 years, so they had done well ..not least considering the heat and dirt of an engine bay. I also pulled out two of the heater exchange pipes. The one shown runs across the back of the engine. It's clipped to the bulkhead, and made of steel. There's some deep pitting from corrosion on the outside, and possibly as bad on the inside. I need to find someone who is handy with a pipe bender and have these remade in copper ... before they start to leak. For the time being however I just power wire brushed them, epoxy primed and sprayed them silver (rather than the original black. As my car will change colour from black to beige, I thought to see how it looked. Heater box back in place, although there's a bottom rubber mount missing. Getting a hand in this back corner to get those control cables under the clamp was a pain ..literally. And then getting the control bowden cable wires to work was hampered by the new pivot-clamps being faulty. As you can see the lathe machinist didn't get right into the corner, and so the cable's hole didn't clear the lever arm.. I've reused the old ones, which work fine. ^ The heater pipers and box is now back in place. The old heater valve I lost when I took it to the radiator repair shop, I thought they'd lost it but in fact I was at fault with this one. I had loaded the radiator and heater box into the Chrysler by its side door. When I turned up at the barn I'd opened the side door to lift things out and hadn't noticed the heater valve drop out. It landed on grass, which overgrows the edge of the concrete, so there was no sound. I searched the car four times looking for the darn thing, but found it pressed into that grass at the barn ..after I'd driven over it.! Hey-up my fault, and nothing to be done but to buy a new one. That's what you see fitted here ..which is why I happened to have new cable pivot-clamps - which didn't work. With the control cables in place - they don't work. The friction between it, the old cables and the levers inside the car is too much.. I've left for now, and will attend to them when I pull the dashboard out. Wiring yet to be done. All in all another five minute job which took well over an hour. The radiator and its cowl went back in okay, but the bolts which held the thermostat 's radiator pipe connection on were each too long. Although cleaned up, these are the same as were on there before. the gasket had disintegrated when I took it off ..looking as if it had been reused half a dozen times before. I made a new cardboard gasket and painted it with primer (the gasket that is, as well as the where the rubber pipe sits over the cast aluminium) and then of course cut the bolts 1/8" shorter. Beforehand I think the amount of goo on the original gasket must have doubled it's thickness. Job done. Engine bay looks a little tidier, but there's still a long way to go. The new-old-stock radiator being freshly repainted looks like new. That being new original, rather than new after-market tat.. And the heater box, all cleaned up and repainted, with new seals, but still with its wiring to be tidied up and new insulation to be bought and fitted. Btw Mk.II Jagwaars didn't have this insulation as standard. I'll also need to buy a new squirrel cage fan as my friend Mathew didn't have one of the size I need. I started the car and tested it, statically, and then in turning the car around (outside) and while washing the car. The fan is so efficient that I placed a thick T-shirt over the radiator grille and could see how it was being sucked in. Still in time it did get to the 50-degrees necessary for the thermostat to fully open. The water / antifreeze mix expanded and overflowed into a tray placed under the car. There's no expansion tank on these old cars and so the following morning, when it had all cooled down, the water level was down to the bottom of its filler tube. I don't like that. I want the water to be where i can see it. so time for a quick n' dirty mod . . . The only thing I could find to make-do was a plastic milk bottle, which I squeezed into a wedge shape besides the cowl, and sat on a block of foam on the chassis. A piece of string and a dog collar, and the weight of water keep it in place. I've now even drilled a hole in its lid for the overflow pipe to go through. I cut the palm of an old rubber glove as a seal around the cap. Such sophistication is surely befitting a Daimler .. It works ..exactly as it should. I can refine it later. Getting the car ready for road trials, included removed the defunct dangling horn and replaced the bumper. That's all for this post .. just a little more to come. Pete
  13. I went to that insurance company because it offered me the best value. I could cut off my nose to spite my face and tell them to stuff it, or whatever other expression you prefer, but in buying this 'modern' car - I recognised that the world has moved on since the 20th-century. The cherry has been popped and there is Fck-all that you or I can do about it. I didn't want a car with sensors built into every sub assembly, but then neither did I want speed cameras, or ULez, or 'traffic', or street, or drone cameras watching our every move, nor a mobile phone that can be traced. I certainly don't want blanket 20mph speed limits, not fck stupid speed limits which really don't make sense. I don't want road markings which tell drivers that they can turn right in a left hand lane on a roundabout. And I think the whole road tax and road repair is a screw up. Nor do I want my phone and computer to continually update, whereby the programs I'd paid good money for no longer work. I certainly don't want whatever data they are downloading onto it, nor their scanning which websites I go onto, or the things I might show a passing interest in. I curse pop-up adverts, ever-repetitive radio adverts, and business and civil telephone lines which are never answered. Everyone must now use the internet. Do or die. I loathe profiteering through deception, whoever does it. And I hate the endemic of lies and the half truths that politics at all levels foster ..from super-power governments to local club politics - I don't trust the word of one of them. I find it truly despicable that all this technology is applied to making me behave ..where child porn and all sorts of other physical and mental abuse throughout the world over is left to its own devices. I find it incredible that scams and identity theft, collapse or pension plans, and even the Post Office can and still do cost families their life savings. I find it infuriating that my retirement hopes of living in Europe for six months of the year, went out of the window because of some screwed up Brexit referendum. And similarly the con that was covid. Each of these of course still need to be paid for, but please let's not hold to account who is to blame. Let those chaps retire with their bonuses to their country estate. I cannot understand how a criminal who has spent most of his or her life ripping people off or killing/maiming some, gets a pension and then free care-home, whereas those who have worked and saved all their lives - suddenly find their savings have diminished in value, and then they have to sell their children's inheritance to pay for care. I find it unthinkable that celebrities are paid millions for being stupid, while the health-worker, fireman, and (good) police officers who clean up societies shit every week, struggle to pay their bills. As a retiree, my single bedroom rental apartment, in a modest suburb of Ipswich, costs more each month than my state pension. Go figure I'm on a diet.! And it's crazy to me that education system is so strictly monitored by check boxes on a form, and yet an intuitive teacher is limited in what they can teach each 'individual' child by the curriculum. As a person of considerably years. I could go on and on, but what's the point. Nobody listens, and nobody cares. "That's progress" or "That's evolution" we are told. My plugging a tracking device into this car, is not going to change the insurance companies, not the world ..nor even will it be the start of a ripple effect. The idea of an apocalypse wouldn't appeal to anyone with children, nephew or nieces - so perhaps parents ought instead to instil in the future generations - workable ideas of how a world might possibly be without all the crap.? Change has to start with a vision. Capitalism incites greed and power, Communism has proven corruptible, but oddly enough - each sought more and more information and control.. Isn't that what all these cameras and tracking devices are all about.. Track the vehicle and get out of paying an insurance claim. That may come, but ByMiles are saying not at this time. They say that the car is insured when parked and the premium for that cost £xxx. And the car is insured for road risk and £yyy of the premium is for that. So they track your car to see whether over the next 12 months it's parked more or driven more than initially declared. That's all. If you drive it less they give you a refund, if you exceed your declared mileage they'll ask you for more money. Yep, you're probably right, in the near future all cars will be tracked. Be a good clone and you'll have nothing to concern yourself with.! Pete.
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