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Bfg

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    Westerfield, Suffolk, England, UK
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    1940's - 1980's motors & motorcycles. Older aircraft & waterborne craft. Design Engineering. Touring & camping (in decent weather), and generally being a grumpy old giffer ;-)

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  1. Quintali - I didn't know that ! .... "The quintal or centner is a historical unit of mass in many countries which is usually defined as 100 base units of either pounds or kilograms. It is commonly used for grain prices in wholesale markets in India, where 1 quintal = 100 kg." ..every day is school day.
  2. Potential bargain to be had ... BIN @ £3500 ono .. like my own this is one of only 700 build with manual + overdrive. Body panels / door shuts look straighter than mine which suggests the sills are original and it's unmolested. Need recommissioning and frayed edges sorted but you can have that with a car costing three-times as much. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276414789371?itmmeta=01HTW4KBGYN6J2E88J4XAJW9WQ&hash=item405b9af6fb:g:W3gAAOSweoFmEab~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwFFUwr5i1sARc%2B3kxbjjA5GxNR%2BRh3LwMiA6WZAROu2MlIvVSTBA6NkC8TfiUXWBPewsUVuFcRxFj6EUxd1g%2BEROc4u4lT2HEGlEPufX%2FQaUoSIiegL9dnMT28KnNH5EMBI%2FVDQYM71A%2Fa2V5otGZhvcqoYwWq5FJGGRT3Fo5KjoYSQlO2umvs2%2BGLnZfnSYUNGmzocVvLpHaEOe64J6USTfVke4enx9T3%2Fj1mZGl%2B%2FcvZXLhEoA7FDdw2Dm5vFEkg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8i4zYTXYw
  3. I should have thought that to be aerodynamically unstable at high speed.
  4. Quick conclusion to recommissioning the Daimler's ventilation . . . ^ Silly little-too-short screws and 3/8" square nuts hold the baffle plate in place. In the first photo you can see the scuttle vent cover's brackets are not evenly adjusted (height or angle). They are bolted to the recirculating-air / bulkhead flap and needed adjustment for the lid to close level. I managed that (with a hammer !) which slide the RH bracket down a bit. next time i do it I'll know to adjust those more precisely before I put the baffle plate on. I'll also find some longer screws. ^ Looks like it was meant to be like this ! ^ all the screws were reassembled with CopaSlip and the right washers. I've slotted the mesh so that when the screws are just loosened - the mesh can be dropped down for easier access to the cover's nuts. The vent now works as it should, open or closes with a clunk. and the recirculating flap closes against it seal when the scuttle vent is opened. Yeah (..delighted by the prospect that this car's ventilation might now actually work !) Well almost . . . ^ with the heater's control cover removed, you can see the hot/cold control cable tightly bent routing ..and why it wasn't working very well. There's also a plain washer missing where the end of the cable connector joins to the lever. Without that the cable's pivot doesn't work very well. Part of the issue was the bowden cable's routing, and part of its problem was that the back end of the radio wasn't supported, so everything was being twisted more than it should have been. ^ It's amazing that it actually worked at all. I made a bracket to support the back end of the radio, an inch higher, and dropped the bowden cable out from under the trim to ease its tight curvature. after straightening the inner wire, I liberally oiled it so it now works. ^ The other side (footwell or screen demist control cable) had lost its nut, so the lever wasn't connected to the cable. And odd size and very tiny nut took me ages to search for and find. I tried to clean the leather of the monstrously big and heavy cover, but to no avail. The black is staining that wouldn't wash off. ^ definitely in need of restoration, but that'll wait. The live feed to the radio was just dangling, just waiting to short out, but with power to the radio - it did hum ...but nothing more. I've now put it back together, and took the car to the shops and then around the block to warm its engine. Hey ho, the heater works. The heater (hot/cold) control works. the heat to car / to screen demist works well too ! Who knows perhaps this car will both be warm in winter, cool in summer, and demist when it's needed ! ? All very useful rectifications. I still need to replace the squirrel fan for one which isn't bent and out of balance. but we're very close to.. Job done. ^ Of course for all that effort ; an onlooker, or even a buyer would notice nothing but the scruffy interior. Indeed even as I drive the car ..now the weather has suddenly turned warmer, I have the heater control set to cold ! . . . yes, the speaker grille is original. It's big and bold, but there's only one.. for mono Radio 1 of the 1960's. I do look forward to a thoroughly good clean of the leather and trim, to re-lacquer the timber, and to replacing the carpets. but that'll happen after the car's resprayed. Bidding you all a good weekend, with sunshine and happy pottering around. Pete
  5. I guess it comes down to one's mindset and approach to the task. If you think of it as a job (unpaid and for an unappreciative boss - a grumpy yourself ! ) then it's a chore. Even more so when you see the bodges of prior owners and the 'mechanics' as x_ _ _s. But.... if you like old cars and you 'just potter around' for an hour or two, ..as n' when you choose to (mostly in the afternoons for me) without an impending deadline, ..and you take some sort of satisfaction out of loving / improving the old girl, ..and you look on those bodges as quite funny reflections on humanity and our culture - then the tasks become a hobby. Every part of the car becomes a little wonderment. Fk me this part is 56 years old and I'm cleaning it and putting it back on.! Lucas, Smiths, Lockhead, Girling, GKN, Triplex Dunlop, and every other sub-contractor's component takes on its own life. Whether mechanical, electrical, a piece of wood, leather or fabric trim ..whatever can be be saved and reused becomes a thank-you to motor industry men and women whose names have long since been forgotten. Once done, most of these rectifications last for decades and don't need repeating. With one task after another done n' dusted - in time the car become useable, reliable and a pleasure ...all for minimal running costs. After major structural and major-mechancal and paint., with no road tax and cheap classic car insurance - it does, in the long-term, become inexpensive. Personally I hate being in the limelight, so I don't tidy up the car to be admired. I do it because I feel these old girls deserve a bit of loving care and attention ..after years of abuse, neglect and making do.. When I go somewhere ; I park the car and walk away. She's the centre of attention. I can do that because I'm a sentimental old sod who loves her ..even her shortcomings. I wouldn't want to swap her creaks & wrinkles for a soulless manikin or an electric car. I like my cars to be decent autoshiter drivers rather than a polished restorations, so originality is less important to me than function. Then, driving the 'maintained' rather than 'precious' car becomes a nostalgic pleasure ..as if I'm driving a ten-year-old car back in the 1970's. And any other old fart who happens to see you driving down the road also derives pleasure from seeing her still being used. Not at necessarily to shows ..but just around around town and to the shops. I'm not interested in bodging the car to sell and make a profit. Indeed I'm of an age where I know that anything i have will be dispersed within a month or two of my passing. However if I can get each car into a useable and reliable condition before I go, then I'll be gifting them to best friends. For those friends to own and enjoy a nice TR4, or a Daimler 250, or a sailing boat ..even if just for a year or two (before they sell them on) then that's more a lovely gift than its monetary value. The other half of my hobby is to share what I've been doing. It's a therapy for me to see that I'm achieving something. That I'm not yet on the scrap pile. And through these forum blobs - I very much hope inspires and helps others. win + win + win whichever way I look at this hobby. Pete
  6. Okay here we go.. a task which proves that cars were built for lack of maintenance 50+ years ago, and like modern cars were built where one thing needs to be dismantled to get to another. . . ^ the scuttle vent, under the windscreen on quite a few cars of the era, took outside (supposedly fresh !) air into the car either directly (cool) or via the heater matrix (heated by engine coolant). There's a lever under the dashboard which manually operates it. And a spring under the vent which toggles to hold it either open or closed. Never half way.! Unbeknown to many.., there's another metal flap connected to this one, at approximately 135-degrees downward. That one opens, or closes-off, a hole through (the vertical face of) the bulkhead. When the scuttle vent is closed, the flap across the bulkhead is open. That's for when the fan is used. Then air is drawn from the car's interior (from behind the central console) and ducted through the (closed) chamber below the scuttle vent flap, to the heater matrix, before being ducted back into the car. This is the recirculating air flow circuit. Conversely when the lever is operated - whereby the scuttle vent opens ; then the recirculating air flap is closed ..and outside air is used for fresh-air ventilation or heating, depending on separate heater controls. What is important is that one flap is closed when the other is opened, and vice-versa. Simple in't it. As it was (this car) ; the lever inside didn't work the flap, and my physically wrenching the scuttle vent up from the outside only ever got it half open. And because the two flaps are bolted together - the scuttle vent being half open meant the bulkhead's recirculating-air flap was similarly half open. With them both half open.. half of the (cold) outside being air taken in, via the scuttle vent, doesn't go down to the heater matrix ..but rather takes a short-cut straight into the car. That's not so very cosy ! Nor is it good in the rain ..for example when trying to demist the screen., because rain and road spray is taken directly into the back of the central console ...with its array of switches, electrical connectors, and minor gauges. There is a baffle plate to stop driving rain getting straight in there, but with a coarse wire mesh on the underside of the vent.. driven rain gets 'meshed' into a fine spray. So, what is the problem when the bloody thing don't open or close fully ? Well, it could be the operating mechanism, something fouling, or perhaps the flaps hinge seized. Note ; plural flaps, single hinge. I was to discover on this particular car, which sat around unused for donkeys years - it was the operating mechanism almost seized, the toggle spring almost seized, and the flap hinges a little bit more than almost seized. The good news was ..well there wasn't much good news.., save the fact that I'm now retired and can spend two days sorting the darn thing out. ^ With any car that sat around for 5+ decades, there's always going to be some screws and nuts and bolts that are seized. It's just something you've got to deal with. I forced the vent open and stuffed a block of wood in there to hold it open. Starting off with cross-head set-screw holding the mesh in place. However careful I was to get exactly the right size bit, a huge amount of force to hold that bit in its slot, without and then with penetrating oil ..it wouldn't shift. There's x3 such screws holding the mesh in place and the other two gave in to my persuasiveness. This allowed me to tilt the mesh down so that I might get a spanner on the nut which holds the top scuttle cover in place. The stubborn little thing* fought me to the last thread. . . ^ even with the scuttle vent lid removed, only my best vice-grips managed to get that screw to move. ^^ not much to see but the wire spring, and the hinge brackets. The black hole to the left side of the car (top of photo) is the trunking down to the fan and heater matrix. 58 minutes between the first and last of these four photos. ^ The centre console hinges down for easy access to wiring connections. The feature is a carry-over from the Jaguar big saloons and XK models ..which also housed the fuse-box behind their console. ^ with no sign of the scuttle vent's hinges, from either inside the car (behind the centre console) or from through the scuttle vent, I reckoned the baffle plate needed to be removed. Seized nuts again.. A full hour of battle between these two photos. And then.. still no sign of the vent's hinges. ^ I unclipped the spring-wire from the vent's (supposedly hinging) brackets, and found that it too was almost seized. 'Almost' meaning that I could force it to move but it needed several douses of lubrication and much working back n' forth before it moved as freely as it should. That's where I stopped work, to go out in the car ..with no scuttle vent fitted, on Tuesday evening. 4-3/4 hours into this five minute job. Moving on to this afternoon . . . ^ Having ascertained the flaps were seized at their hinge, but unable to find that.. I needed to dig deeper. I opted out of removing the glove box and main-gauge instrument panels in favour of seeing what I might find if I just removed the dashboard top. There's just two nuts to undo, noting the shims which level its height. But then to actually remove the panel I needed to also remove the timber capping up the A-post. I reckoned with care I could about get away with just removing the driver's side. At its bottom of it is a simple screw from under the dashboard lid (first photo) ^^ The top of the timber though is screw fastened behind the (glued-on) door's weather seal (2nd photo). ^ It's an oddly shaped piece of timber. I cannot imagine how Jaguar productionised it left and right handed. Removing the dashboard's vinyl-covered lid would have been much easier if its sides were parallel ..so it could be slid straight back, without taking A-post timber off. But.., it's ends are shaped around the A-post at the sides, wider towards the screen. It cannot be slid straight out, nor lifted up. Even with the A-post timber removed - the lid needed to be tilted and pulled down ..being careful to not scratch the dashboard with its fastening studs. It's tight.. but it does come out (and later goes back in again !). I think the later cars ..the XJ6 used skinny vinyl trim up the A-post. ^ And still not sign of those flap's (top) hinges. In the first photo you cannot see the scuttle vent's operating lever, because it's down below the centre console. It seemed to move freely but., I wondered if it was moving freely for the full range ..which it couldn't yet do because the flaps were still seized. I opted to remove the console's hinges - to drop it out of the way and to give me clear access to that operating-lever arm's hinges. Various electrical connections were released to give the console more travel, so that I could better see what i was doing. ^ On the left hand side a bent metal bar. That's the flaps operating arm, and it's supposed to be bent like that. I've released the bolts to its hinges so it can tilt, so I could see to lubricate them. But for just a little free movement - they were seized. With penetrating oil and then 25w-50 and a fair amount of wiggling back n' forth the operating now move freely throughout its range. The flap though, now disconnected both from the inside and outside was still seized ..and its hinge was still nowhere to be seen. I think only by pulling the whole dashboard out might I discover how it was built ? ^ Still unable to see those hinges - I played a long ball. There are two holes into the windscreen frame which I sprayed with WD-40 using its extension pipe, and then using another brand of penetrating oil (with considerably more squirt) I flooded up either side of the bulkhead flap. I did the same from the scuttle vent side, until it was literally dripping with the stuff. Forcefully man handling the flap back n' forth dozens of times - I finally got it to move, and then some more, and then some more again. ^ Finally... the flap opens and closes as it should. 2 hours today to get to this stage. Here looking down into the scuttle vent trunking., you can see (because the baffle is still removed) the bulkhead's air-recirculation flap closed against its bulkhead seals. The scuttle vent's brackets / arms, bolted to that inner flap, bend from forward to upwards ..for its lid to be open by 45-degrees. It works.. Now I just needed to put it all back together again. . . ^ Work in progress.. ^^ Dashboard top is back in place, as is the centre console, but presently the switch label plate is yet to be refitted, also the A-post timber. The splash baffle and scuttle vent's lid I hope to get back on tomorrow. That's all for now. Pete.
  7. 'tis a bodge, in any other language but Autoshite !
  8. Yesterday afternoon I tackled the Daimler's scuttle vent which is all but seized solid. However then a friend called me as i had everything in bits, and asked I was going to drop in and see him before we went on to the Triumph Sports Six Club meeting at the Sorrel Horse. Bottom line I didn't get that job done (i'll report on that anon). So today I was going to tackle that again. The issue I'm facing is how to get to the hinges of that inner flap, And to get to those I fear I'll need to pull some of the dashboard out. .. And to pull part of the dashboard out means I've got to jump around inside the car on the driver's seat. .... But the driver's seat is sagging, and I fear my gymnastics would do more damage. ....... So instead of getting on with the scuttle flap (which is the air intake for fresh air and for the heater) I decided instead to tackle the driver's seat. . . ^ the squabs just lift out. Dead easy. Even just with a hand pressure you can see how giving the seat was. I guessed what was happening.. The leather seats are wire-coli sprung, and inbetween those springs and the leather is a diaphragm and then latex foam rubber. When the diaphragm fails - the wire springs cut into the foam rubber and that's a costly and troublesome business to repair. In short, the diaphragm needed replacing before I used the car any more, or even just jumped around inside it when pulling the dashboard out. It's always better to avoid damage than having to fix it . . . ^ Inverted and looking from the back, the seat looked pretty good for 56 years old, but yes the diaphragm (which despite it being a Daimler is only sackcloth) had failed in many places. Just right of centre in the first photo you can just make out where the foam rubber was being cut into by the wire springs. A couple of those springs were also broken. ^^ I decided to tackle the diaphragm from the back and from the propshaft tunnel side (to the right in these photos), because I did not want to disturb the leather around the more visible front and outside faces of the seat. There were three types of clip holding the springs, the fabric, and the torn sackcloth diaphragm to the wire frame. I guess I must have removed forty or fifty of them in total, as carefully as I could, so as to minimise damage to the fabric. ^ Aside from wire staples, the diaphragm was also stitched to the wire springs. It took an hour and half before I could get my hand inbetween them. Again in the second photo you can see the torn sackcloth. In places, the wire springs had cut right through the foam to the cloth facing on its other side. Had that been cut through the underside of the leather would have been damaged. ^ the steel batten which follows around the back of the seat was snapped. It is there to stop the back edge of the squab from pushing down, away from the backrest, which it does ..resulting in a cold draught to the small of my back. ^ this is a mat on the floor of the garage next to my car. It's there to wipe my wet feet on. However what is not so very clear to see is a replacement diaphragm about to happen ! ^ that floor mat measured and cut in half has a hessian underside face to it (visually quite similar to sackcloth). Rather* awkward to get it into place mind you, between the wire springs and the damaged sackcloth. ^ Even when there's little in the way of skill, I can always count on my stubbornness 1hr-7 minutes between these last two photographs ! That's the diaphragm replaced. Next up is a little more padding, to compensate for the wire springs having cut through the original latex foam, and 56 years / 89,000 miles of 'settling'. ^ Always one to blow the budget to impress. An old pillow with polyester filling, is no longer a pillow (..for under my head ) ^ polyester filling, slipped inbetween the old and the 'additional' diaphragm. ^ Far left of the photo, you can see I've wired the broken rear batten in place. That's because my welder is a 20-mile round trip away. Wire springs being reconnected to it. And I've used a foam sponge as spring to help hold that batten up ..in place. Crude, but it actually works. . . ^ job done. I'm not claiming to have restored it ..it's just a fix to keep it going ..and as importantly to prevent further damage from those wire springs to the leather seat covers. I must say though - the hessian backed rug does look the part. I wonder if it will last another 56 years ? ^ Feels much better, and doesn't look over stuffed. Of course the proof of the pudding lies in how one's bottom feels about it a day later ! Bidding you, one and all, a good evening, Pete
  9. Saturday and today's pottering . . . I used the Daimler on Thursday evening (70 mile round trip) ..oddly enough to go to a TR Register club night at Eight Ash Green, Colchester. The reason being is that although I've now repaired Katie's (my TR4) backlight frame ..that being the rear window frame for its Surrey top (above), I need to order a length of glazing-rubber chrome-insert, as that fitted has always been the wrong size. Bottom line being that I didn't want to take Katie out, with the rear window uncertainty (possibility of it falling out) at night. As it happens Thursday afternoon it pee'd with rain, and I really find the TR too low to be driven along motorways in the rain at night. Too much road spray seriously diminishes this aged-driver's visibility. Whereas the Daimler saloon (although still diminutive by today's standards) is a foot higher. Anyway, because the Daimler got mud splattered, I wanted first to give her a Saturday afternoon car wash. That done I spent an hour or two a day doing jobs ..which on the whole are minor but useful improvements. Doing a couple of hours a day should see them all done ..in let's say five hundred years ! First up, was reversing the driver's-side wiper blade. For whatever reason the rubber has pimples on one side of it, and so the blade only wipes on the other side. One way wiper blades I've not come across before, but with it reversed it wiped the windscreen 50 times better than it was. Next up.. ^ alongside the driver's seat you'll see a keeper plate whose trim is shredded. That's happened because the outside edge of the seat squab was sitting over that plate and so the driver's seat wobbled. Not seriously but a little uneasy. You'll also note the position of the handbrake, low down beside / below the seat, on the floor and down the narrow gap between the door trim panel and the seat.. Honestly that would not be the most convenient position for it, especially when some plonker decides to position an arm rest directly above it on the door trim pad. In my humble opinion this was not only dumb, but also because of the brake being difficult to reach easily - dangerous. So . . . ^ work in process ; the arm-rest being removed. You can see the brighter area of the door trim pad, indicating where it was, and can possibly relate that arm-rest protrusion to the handbrake when the door is shut. As seen in the second photo, the gap down the side of the seat still isn't much, but now at least I can get my arm more or less straight down to reach the handbrake (only just visible). As I say - minor jobs but useful. ^ On the passenger side .. the inertia reel of the seat belt was falling off. Aside from it being insecure, the angle it tilted to meant that the passenger couldn't pull the belt out. I might only guess it had been like this for years, but of course the car has rarely been used for the past four decades, and I'm sure very much less with a passenger. It was an awkward sod to tighten up., as that bolt was to a ball joint which allows the inertia reel to be adjusted upright. And like many ball joints they turn when you try and do the nut up. Never-the-less another little job done. While trying to get to this, I realised the passenger seat wasn't adjusting fully. Simply because its sliders were crudded up. When cleaned and lubricated the seat now adjusts as it should ..Amazing ! Another job I discovered needing doing on Thursday evening, was that the screen wash didn't work. I looked into this, just before I was due to come home for the evening, and noted when the (electric) pump was switched - nothing happened (no sound either) but there was a slight draw of power registering on the ammeter. This indicated that the power to the switch was fine, and that the switch was operating. So the likelihood was either the wiring connectors to the washer pumps were poor or more likely (because of the registered power draw) the pump itself wasn't working. A quick visual check suggested the wiring was serviceable, and so I deduced it was the pump. This (Sunday) afternoon's task then was to look into that. . . ^ the washer motor pump. Seized ..until man handled (turning that spindle you see projecting from the underside). Not familiar with these, but if I took it apart - what could possibly go wrong ? ^ interesting. I'd never seen an electric motor like this one before. First impressions was that the windings looked okay, but the armature contacts and brushes were filthy. The spindle though the bottom cover plate was overly tight, but overall - there was only the lightest of corrosion. ^ After cleaning and a little lubrication, I reassembled it. Albeit weird, it's a neat little motor. While at it I cleaned up the top of the washer bottle, onto which the motor is screwed. In my fingers is the blade to blade adapter. The first blade being on the bottom of the motor (see photo above ..before I cleaned it) and the second blade is on the end of the spindle which disappears into the plastic leg. At the bottom end of the leg is a gauze filter, behind which I might only assume is a centrifugal pump. ^ all back together and ..it works. The windscreen washer's jet on the passenger side took three or four attempts to clean out, but we got there in the end. Both jets were then adjusted to wash the screen rather than splash off the wiper arm. Success. I'm pleased with that as I'd much prefer original parts to after-market ones. So windscreen washers as well as wipers.. Is it the 21st century already ! ? To close off, I adjusted the car's headlamps as well. They were busily trying to illuminate down drain gratings at the side of the road. Now perhaps they'll illuminate the road in front of me. Will Daimler wonders never cease ? Bidding you a happy Easter, Pete
  10. Some of you may recall my thoughts that ..on the slim line bumper model of these cars, I prefer the Jaguar grille to the (imo) over-adorned-with-chrome flutted Daimler grille. So this afternoon, just in pottering around, I made moves to further that. . . The Jaguar grille I'd bought was damaged. insomuch as the round-holed badge surround of its centre vane had been dented and was oval (left). Typically the e-bay seller hadn't declared this ..but that's part n' parcel of the price of buying over the internet, sight unseen ..Every third person is a liar. The replacement vane I'd bought (above right) looked nice usable condition, and was bought from a museum, again via e-bay. That seller didn't declare that it was a repro part. I can only hope it fits and looks okay when on the car. ^ The horn-push badge I bought was also via ebay ..and was as described. . . I think it reasonable that a horn push from a Daimler 2-1/2 isn't going to be a straight fit into a radiator grille from a Jaguar Mk2 ..but I'd estimated its size would be about right. ^ first cuts were to shape the horn push around the badge holder's screw bosses. ^ The objective of course was to get the badge a secure fit in its surround, and for the badge face to end up evenly flush with the chrome rim. Not like this ! Sometimes taking heart-in-hand you just needed to get on and take bigger cuts . . . ^ to cut a 4-hour story short ; I used junior hacksaw, angle grinder, cordless drill with router bit, and a hand file to reshape around the horn push badge. Naturally, there's no 'undo' button if one cuts too far, or wrongly positions those cuts whereby the badge would end up lop-sided or twisted in its surround. It was therefore a time consuming business.. akin to whittling. A difficulty was seeing what was stopping it from sitting in place. Imagine trying to see where a piece of translucent plastic is being held away from sitting down into a tapered chrome surround is a sort of paradox. Even cutting it is interesting because you don't want to scratch its face with marked-out-geometry nor paint it. Marker pens didn't work very well, against its black background. So it was all done by eye. . . . . . . ^ It's not too shabby for it being home made. The Jaguar grille I have for the car is over the hill and in the barn, so my trying it on the Daimler will have to wait., but just holding it in rough place over the Daimler grille does give an impression. I think I'm going to like having the Daimler scrolled 'D' badge on the front of my car. Bidding you a good Easter weekend. Pete
  11. A quick pictorial update . . . ^ Fibreglassed underside to the frame, where I'd used masking tape to extend the flange. As you can see the resultant extra width of that was 3 to 4mm and instead of being 1mm thick it is now around 3mm thick. With the extra thickness the frame was much stiffer than it had been, so I opted to not fit wood, or other means to prevent it from twisting. Despite my original intent, and Stuart's endorsement of doing so, the lid's T-bar worked well before to prevent twisting, and so I felt little motivation to change things. ^ Having something more sturdy to work with, I got on with rebuilding the contours, and primed it. With so many colours ; black of the moulding, grey of raw fibreglass, primrose yellow of the paintwork, and green of the fibre-filler it was difficult to see the shape. Coating with primer added yet another colour but when first applied helped highlight flaws. ^ I had considered painting the frame red, to match the car, but then because of the extent of rubber seals around all edges decided to go with gloss black. Unfortunately, the reflections in that show up every wave and wobble in the fibreglass moulding. I rubbed down and repainted it a couple of times but decided the odds were stacked against me. If I were to insist on having good reflections - then this fibreglass moulding would need to be replaced with an aluminium backlight frame. ^ If you don't take those reflections too seriously this the backlight looks acceptable for a driver's car. I need to replace the glazing rubber's 'chrome' infill bead, as the one I have is broken and twisted. The rubber itself I reused. Again it's far from perfect but usable. ^ work in progress. The backlight is now mostly refitted but it's glass has not yet 'settled'. I could do with the heat of a closed car on a still n' sunny day to soften its glazing rubber. There's no sealant or mastic holding the rubber in place yet, and as you can see the rear interior trim is still to be refitted. Presently I'm not so keen on it being black, but perhaps it'll grow on me or else fade into the background and not be noticeable. We'll see. ^ Conversely, I liked the backlight being painted primrose yellow.. and it light tone disguised the moulding's numerous defects (not only distortions but clearly its mould was chipped and at the end of its working life). That's all for this week, I bid you have a good weekend. Pete
  12. Cant be that 'leaky a Bfg roof' if 'the interior is lovely' ...can it ?
  13. ..from the TR Register forum Thanks Stuart, that's very useful to know. I would have been guessing around 11mm to allow 1mm for tolerance, but 10mm is still probably 4mm more than it had been trimmed to before. ^ The nature of working with fibreglass is that I've deliberately extended the flange quite a bit more (that's seen as cyan blue ..as it's not cured yet). I trim it off when cured to the width required. ^ I had hoped to do a bit more this evening, but my resin is well passed its best. I'll get out to buy some fresh tomorrow, as it'll make the task a dozen times easier than trying to wet out this old stuff. Up the B-post section I've laminated x3 additional layers of 450g chopped-strand glass over the window-rubber flange. There's just one across the inside width. The flange facing into the car (seen here, facing towards the bottom clamp in the photo) isn't critical but I've reinforced over where the section of frame had ripped out. The masking tape and weight is only there to stop the edge of that laminate from lifting, which glass fibres tends to do when bent over a 90 degree corner. Finished early .. so it's time for a cuppa Pete
  14. Life is grinding sometimes, and there's not much worse than grinding fibreglass ..as its dust (minute glass fibres) gets in places you really don't like it to. nevertheless, like many an unpleasant task it has to be done, and done carefully and well. Neither filler paste nor fibregalss resin will stick well unless you cut the crap of the surface and score it. So that was my start for today ..fortunately the weather's turned for the better and I can now work in the garden. ^ at the bottom front corners (the B-post) of this backlight frame is where the first, and arguably the most important fastening goes. However the quality of production can be seen in the crack around it. From the above ; it's apparent that someone was trying to bond onto the top of a polished moulding (not even keyed). From the underside it's not looking much better . . . ^ here the bond is gel onto a single thickness of lightweight fibreglass. When (carefully cleaning this corner out I broke through to the outside. The panel really is that thin. Once clean, I masking tape on the other side, and prised the crack open to apply filler paste. ^^ The other side wasn't as bad, but it was also cracked. As I say these are the most critical mounts to hold the back window onto the car, so I've reinforced them with fibreglass laminate. . . ^ That same left hand side ..and then similarly ^^ the right hand side. Each now has chopped strand mat + x2 layers of woven glassfibre mat. Naturally, I'll need to redrill the holes and retrim the bottom edges once the resin has thoroughly cured. Btw the row of clamp seen in the first photo are an attempt to straighten that bottom edge. They are pulling the fibreglass out to a steel ruler. Irrespective of having no core to help prevent this frame from twisting, the thickness of the fibreglass leaves something to be desired. . . ^ Across the top of the frame - the fibreglass flange, which holds the rear window glass in, is with gelcoat + paint about 1mm thick. ^^ Around the rear bottom edge and inner and outer moulding together with its bonded brings that thickness to 3mm.. the glazing rubber is of course for the thicker dimension, which is presumably why it leaked and needed copious amounts of black mastic to seal. ^ The depth of the seal to fit along that flange is 12mm deep. ^^ The second photo shows that same depth relative to the flange itself. This was why, when I first tried fitting this surrey-top the glass kept pulling out at the top. When I made my fibreglass surrey-top lid(s) I made a very stiff T-bar to hold the frame back to prevent the glass from popping out. Now I'll try to rectify the real problem. Lunch over, time for some more fibreglassing. Pete
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