1971 MGB GT - Mistake undone - see page 11

[wesacosa]

Before playing with the timing set the points gap first,  if you adjust them afterwards it will affect the timing 

If you start fiddling with basic tuning settings an automotive multimeter is a useful bit of kit to have, as it will let you measure dwell and rpm which is useful for fiddling with points and carb idle/mixture 

here's me impressing the neighbours by looking like I know what I'm doing!

 

[Peter C]

I won't move the MGB into my workshop until I return from my holiday, in four weeks time. In the meantime, the MGB resides in the short bay within the double garage, where working space is tight. 

To make fiddling with the engine easier, I removed the bonnet, which was always destined for removal, to enable stripping of the minging fabric that lines the underside of the centre panel.

I wanted to get the engine running properly.

I turned the engine over and lined up the timing marks to as close to 10 degrees BTDC as possible. Someone had already marked the points with white paint.

I removed the distributor cap, the rotor arm was pointing towards cylinder 1 plug.

The points gap was ok and I cleaned the contacts yesterday.

I rotated the distributor to the point where the points started to open up (not clear in this photo).

Next I had a look at the carbs.

The pistons can be pushed up with resistance and both drop down ok.

I had a look inside the carbs, I'm no expert but I can't see any obvious problems.

Before firing up the engine again, I decided to re-fit the air filter housings.

The air filter housings were in the boot when I first saw the MGB at Beaulieu and I wasn't sure how to get them back on. I found this on the internet, very useful.

Re-fitting the housings was a doddle.

I fired up the engine and it runs good, no more popping, the revs increase as the throttle is opened up. The B-series sounds healthy, the tappets may need slight adjustment, the oil needs replacement and I still want to fit electronic ignition. 

The only issue is that the engine idles too high because the throttle linkage does not fully return to closed position. Pushing on the top of the linkage gets the revs down to where they should be.

The linkage return springs are in place and it seems that the linkage is either a bit stiff or incorrectly adjusted. I need to spend more time getting it right.

I had another go at removing the steering wheel.

I fixed an arrangement of metal washers and brackets to the steering wheel boss and used a proper puller. Even with the reinforcement washers that I fixed to the brackets, the brackets and washers deflected and the boss will not pull away from the column. I suspect its been there for 53 years and doesn't want to budge. Any ideas how to get it off?

Finally, the boot lid had a few millimetres of play when shut. Adjusting the catch by releasing two bolts and knocking the catch down solved the problem.

I still have a lot of work to get through before the MGB hits the road but in the meantime I am enjoying myself and making good progress. Thank you to everyone who provided me with the advice that I needed to get the engine running properly. 

More soon.

 

 

[chadders]

 

 

This guy really knows his stuff.

[Matty]

Great news. Whilst you're at this point you can check that the pistons and pot aren't worn. From memory you take the needle out, plug any transfer holes in the piston, lightly oil the inside of the pot, insert one into the other and time how long it takes to drop out. Iirc it's around 7 seconds is ideal. Just proves there's no excessive wear between the two which would make accurate set up hard work or not a goer. 

 

(Obvs make sure you got a soft landing spot)

[Matty]

3 minutes ago, chadders said:

 

 

This guy really knows his stuff.

I take it you've still got yours? As a relative newbie I'd love a look at a thread if you've got one. Or at least some gratuitous photos 

[chadders]

Just found this one above, pre rattle canning.

No thread I'm afraid, I'm still analogue in a digital age.

Here's the latest pics after I rattle canned it. 

Incidentally I didn’t repair the dent in the passenger door, the slightly ill fitting bootlid (the result of forcing a tent into it in 1979 or 80) or various other things. They're part of my memories.

It needs cutting back and polishing.

I've no idea where the others are, sorry.

 

Edited October 6 by chadders

[Mr Pastry]

That's great progress and interestingly the adjusting screws and clamps on the carbs have been paint marked, so whoever set it up possibly knew what they were doing - hopefully anyway.  I wouldn't worry too much about the idle until you have driven it a bit and it's had some fresh fuel through it and settled down.  

[Matty]

3 minutes ago, chadders said:

No thread I'm afraid, I'm still analogue in a digital age.

Here's the latest pics after I rattle canned it. 

Incidentally I didn’t repair the dent in the passenger door, the slightly ill fitting bootlid (the result of forcing a tent into it in 1979 or 80) or various other things. They're part of my memories.

It needs cutting back and polishing.

I've no idea where the others are, sorry.

 

So you've basically had it forever. Great that is. I still think (yeah I know I've said it before) that these are no1 classic car. Pretty, go well, easy to work on, good parts etc etc.  Lovely colour as well. Is it snapdragon or is that too late?

[chadders]

Citron.

Not my first choice but I bought it 2nd hand.

[bigstraight6]

Good job there Pete, electronic ignition is a very worthwhile upgrade, I fitted it to my Zodiac when I acquired it 20 years ago and haven’t needed to adjust the timing since.

[Matty]

7 minutes ago, bigstraight6 said:

Good job there Pete, electronic ignition is a very worthwhile upgrade, I fitted it to my Zodiac when I acquired it 20 years ago and haven’t needed to adjust the timing since.

And everytime you say that I wonder why I keep shitting out of going down that route 😁

[danthecapriman]

9 minutes ago, bigstraight6 said:

Good job there Pete, electronic ignition is a very worthwhile upgrade, I fitted it to my Zodiac when I acquired it 20 years ago and haven’t needed to adjust the timing since.

Same. 
I’ve got it on the Mercury and the Capri now. Not done so many miles with the Capri yet but the Mercury it’s been absolutely faultless so far. 
I don’t think the points are necessarily a terrible idea really, it’s just the piss poor quality of replacement parts that causes me headaches. 
Spend good money on a quality electronic kit and you’ll not regret it.

[chadders]

I fitted a 1-2-3 to my VW T2 some 12 years ago and it's been faultless.

Expensive yes but worth it in my opinion.

[busmansholiday]

Please throw those fucking cheap chrome dashpot covers in the skip. They annoy the fuck out of me, just polish the aluminium ones 

Stick a bigger spring / extra one on to get the throttle linkage to move back. You're also missing a bit of rubber tube between the two air filter cans, they should be connected.

Glad it's working OK.

[Matty]

1 hour ago, chadders said:

I fitted a 1-2-3 to my VW T2 some 12 years ago and it's been faultless.

Expensive yes but worth it in my opinion.

The main reason I've stuck with points and condensor is that I can carry spares and not be stuck at the side of the road. You can't really do that with electronic. That is the perceived wisdom I've been handed down.

Annoyingly that argument keeps getting shot to shit by all the people on here who've had electronic for years and never been left stranded. Smug bastards with their rock steady idles and lack of feeler gauges 🤣

[busmansholiday]

1 minute ago, Matty said:

The main reason I've stuck with points and condensor is that I can carry spares and not be stuck at the side of the road. You can't really do that with electronic. That is the perceived wisdom I've been handed down.

Annoyingly that argument keeps getting shot to shit by all the people on here who've had electronic for years and never been left stranded. Smug bastards with their rock steady idles and lack of feeler gauges 🤣

Been there, suffered that, went back to points and condensor on my Holbay Rapier. Still have them on my MGs, if I fitted electronic I'd carry the old distributor and a bulb and bit of wire in the boot.

[busmansholiday]

Other thing to add is you have a 25D distributor which has a vacuum operated advance and retard system for the timing. You can adjust some of the timing using that small wheel you can see in the picture but make sure that the pipe to the inlet manifold is still there and that if you suck on it (ooohh Matron..) it actually moves the backplate the points are on. They seize up regularly, like anything that goes in and out, it needs some lubricant........

[wesacosa]

44 minutes ago, Matty said:

The main reason I've stuck with points and condensor is that I can carry spares and not be stuck at the side of the road. You can't really do that with electronic. That is the perceived wisdom I've been handed down.

Annoyingly that argument keeps getting shot to shit by all the people on here who've had electronic for years and never been left stranded. Smug bastards with their rock steady idles and lack of feeler gauges 🤣

I've got a Gammatronix on the Panda, it's a good compromise. It keeps the points but only as a low voltage trigger so they dont burn out, but does away with the condenser which are not easy to get decent ones.  But if it goes wrong you can just swap the condenser back in and be on your way.  Only about £30 too

[Matty]

2 minutes ago, wesacosa said:

I've got a Gammatronix on the Panda, it's a good compromise. It keeps the points but only as a low voltage trigger so they dont burn out, but does away with the condenser which are not easy to get decent ones.  But if it goes wrong you can just swap the condenser back in and be on your way.  Only about £30 too

Interesting. Will have a Google 

[wesacosa]

3 minutes ago, Matty said:

Interesting. Will have a Google 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200540069425?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Z99PTdcuRNm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=8AFYP6nlRMa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[High Jetter]

Are Sparkrite stil going? Sold loads BITD, fitted them to my chod, worked well.

[Peter C]

23 hours ago, chadders said:

 

 

This guy really knows his stuff.

No way Jose, my steering wheel appears to be welded to the column. No matter how hard I smack it with the large hammer, it ain't budging.

[Peter C]

I had a bit of time this afternoon to make a little progress with the MGB. I want to remove as much of the trim as possible to help with the cleaning, undersealing and painting procedures.

The front bumper came off without any drama but the two screws that secure the bottom of the grille to the front panel were rusted solid and I had to get the grinder out to cut them off. Fun. I suspect I will come across more seized fixings when I get stuck into the project.

The metal behind the grille and bumper is all solid but the paint is tatty.

The grille badge has lost the all important M and G.

I've had these badges for years, they came from a modern MG that I came across in a breakers yard.

Yep, I can make this work. Project Low cost MGB is up and running.

More soon.

 

[Mr Pastry]

35 minutes ago, Peter C said:

No way Jose, my steering wheel appears to be welded to the column. No matter how hard I smack it with the large hammer, it ain't budging.

That is not the way to do it if it is very tight.  You were on the right lines with the puller.  Heat gun on the boss repeatedly to expand it.  Tighten the puller and then smack the puller nut.  It may take a while but it will shift eventually.

[Peter C]

I dabbed red paint on the two pins on the back of the badge.

I located the badge over the grille badge, which left two markers.

I drilled two holes.

Applied this stuff into the two holes.

And fixed the new badge in place.

All good if the adhesive works. 

I like it.

[timolloyd]

Nice work. Even more so because it will upset the beards at an MG gathering!

[bigstraight6]

23 hours ago, busmansholiday said:

Other thing to add is you have a 25D distributor which has a vacuum operated advance and retard system for the timing. You can adjust some of the timing using that small wheel you can see in the picture but make sure that the pipe to the inlet manifold is still there and that if you suck on it (ooohh Matron..) it actually moves the backplate the points are on. They seize up regularly, like anything that goes in and out, it needs some lubricant........

When I read the last sentence it was being voiced in my head by Kenneth Williams…

[Peter C]

Prices of MGB project cars all seem to be about the same but the definitions of projects vary a great deal.

Check this out, only for the brave: https://www.classic-trader.com/uk/cars/listing/mg/mgb/mgb-gt/1972/400107

When I bought my B, someone at Beaulieu advised that it is fitted with the wrong tailgate. The badging apparently gives it away.

This is mine:

This is another, very similar, J reg car:

This is the early, 1960s style tailgate and badging:

And the rubber bumper version:

Looks like my tailgate and badging are all correct. Phew, I was losing sleep.

[SiC]

On 07/10/2024 at 17:12, Peter C said:

No way Jose, my steering wheel appears to be welded to the column. No matter how hard I smack it with the large hammer, it ain't budging.

I used a puller. Took a shite load of force and I even kept away from any rebound areas incase it slipped off when undoing. 

Don't go crazy hitting that centre or pulling on the column by just pulling the wheel. This age have a collapsible column and smashing on it with a hammer or pulling the wheel could break the collapsible bit. 

Somewhere on my BGT thread I have how I did the pulling.

[SiC]

Found it! This was my contraption setup. I was trying not to ruin the original wheel either.

This is how I started doing it but iirc it was putting a lot of stress on the threads which I didn't want to fuck up.

So I used big clamps to hold it against the back of the wheel. Theory being it's stronger and less likely to do damage to the casting.

Let go with a big bang and everything came off suddenly. Note that I left the nut on so it didn't all shoot and fall off when it came off.