project SiC's consolidated moderns - 2004 BMW Z4 2.2 and 2005 BMW 330i

[SiC]

Inside shots of the museum. It's been extended since I last went and now has a small coffee shop area. There is an extra barn to the side that extends to display area.

Tbh it actually felt smaller and less exhibits than when I went last time. That said, some of the exhibits were outside on show for drive it day. 

Mini was Paddy Hopkins and used for races. F1 car is a Williams. 

Again not in order, just how they uploaded. There aren't photos of all the museum, just as I wandered around. Elsewhere on here are better photos from when I went last time.

 

[rainagain]

Is that an electric 106 shown in one of the above pics?

[SiC]

3 minutes ago, rainagain said:

Is that an electric 106 shown in one of the above pics?

Yeah. 

I took these in 2019 and I think it's the same car.

[SiC]

I disconnected the MAF after a drive to warm the car up. Arse Dyno suggests it's much more lively with it disconnected. So presumably either a vacuum leak somewhere or MAF is tired.

MAF looks immaculate inside. Has Siemens written on it, which suggests it's not a cheap part. Hard to know if genuine or not but I think it is. Can't see any date codes on it though. Too expensive to parts dart with a new one. About £180 for a genuine Siemens VDO from Autodoc. So unlikely I'll be doing that.

MOT booked for 10th May 🤞

[SiC]

Had a quick flick through the history to see if I could find anything MAF related. I couldn't.

However I did find this receipt from 2008.

So the passenger seat mat has been broken for at least 16 years. 🤣

[SiC]

If you own an Audi A8, the front bumper needs to be removed every weekend.

If you own a BMW Z4, the car needs to be raised every 200 miles... ( @wuvvum probably feels this pain too 😅)

I was going to chuck this into a garage to sort the handbrake, but I thought I'd at least investigate at first.

Put the parking brake in its service position. Basically latch off the handbrake lever spring. Took quite a bit of force to do that.

Out of the many old wrecks I've bought over the years, including a lot of British Leylands finest, I have never seen a handbrake ratchet worn out. I know there are a lot of BMW lovers and VAG haters on here but my 200k Golf is holding up on the miles much better than this 177k BMW. Nowhere near the same amount of trim, interior and part wear like this car.

 

I'm getting good at pulling BMW rear brakes apart now. Pads, caliper, caliper holder and disc all removed. Pretty obvious now what the issue with the handbrake and the rubbing noise I was getting was from.

That's the drivers side. The passenger side (where I actually thought the noise was from) was how it should be.

 

So what happened? Well the shoes are held in by spring retaining (beehive?) clips. These are mounted into the back-plate.

Which was rusted out completely.

Thankfully the bolts for the shield came out without snapping.

So new backplate time. These are supposed to be mounted by removing the hub and driveshaft. However I'm not doing that just for a backplate and handbrake mechanism. Far too much risk of ruining bearings and making this a much larger job.

Instead what I'm going to do, and most other people do, is snip off the caliper side and slot it in through the hub.

Basically an extra cut in the one I put in here. Just the one slot meant the backplate was pretty bent and warped it. It needs to be fairly flat for the handbrake setup to work properly.

 

I could get new backplates off eBay for £22 delivered. But won't arrive till Thurs or Fri. 

Instead Febi on Amazon to the rescue again and should be arriving today. I'm doing both sides as the other is pretty bad too and I don't want to be doing this again.

While I had the backend up, I removed the wheel arch liner to give the drains a good probe. Thankfully mostly clean and dry.

[beko1987]

Probably saved a few hundred quid in labour just by investigating it! Hopefully it all goes back together happily, assume the handbrake ratchet will last for the mot? 

[SiC]

11 minutes ago, beko1987 said:

Probably saved a few hundred quid in labour just by investigating it! Hopefully it all goes back together happily, assume the handbrake ratchet will last for the mot? 

The ratchet that is rounded off is about clicks 5 to 8. Online says a properly adjusted mechanism should be locking the wheels at 2 clicks. So hopefully (!) once fully adjusted it should be fine. Apart from the rounded off notches, the other notches hold firm. Even as it wears, the springiness in the mechanism should hopefully allow it to be pulled past that. Failing that, my wife who likes to put handbrakes on mega hard will likely stretch the cables anyway. 🫠

It was unlikely to pass an MOT as it stood previously though. Even if it did, it would have been marginal. I did find that parking on a hill it did like to roll. It's always been habit for me to leave cars in gear anyway.

While it's another expense I didn't want, like you said, at least I'm saving on garage bills. I think I'm already at the point now (£200ish and then the MOT to get through) in parts that I won't be getting my money back. At absolute best this is probably a £1400 to £1500 car. Any more and you're into a Z4 with less miles and better bodywork.

[SiC]

I also really want the car back on the road again and not on axle stands! At some point soon I need to get on with changing the GTI cam belt and cam chain.

There is also the MGB to wash and sell.

Let's not forget my MG Midget hasn't been touched in at least 3 months. Plus the Dolomite feeling even more sad. 

[Stanky]

I had exactly the same issue with my old W203 re the handbrake shoes, the retaining spring pulled out of the backplate and the shoe flopped about making weird noises and dragging a bit. I think a few others have had similar and resorted to your fix with the backplate too. 

Good work on getting it fixed up!

[SiC]

1 minute ago, Stanky said:

I had exactly the same issue with my old W203 re the handbrake shoes, the retaining spring pulled out of the backplate and the shoe flopped about making weird noises and dragging a bit. I think a few others have had similar and resorted to your fix with the backplate too. 

Good work on getting it fixed up!

The logical thing would be to weld the bits I cut off back on once attached. But I really cba to sort out the garage right now so I get room to roll out my welder to be outside! Especially as everyone else seems to cut these bits without issue. 

This is what Pelican Parts suggest to cut and others seem to as well

 

[Stanky]

I've seen it done (on youtube) with just one slice but then getting the plate back onto the hub risks making it go pringle-shaped I reckoned. making two cuts gives you more room and shouldn't compromise the backplate integrity I don't think.

Might be worth putting a dab of paint onto the cut ends if you can be bothered I suppose?

[rainagain]

I've only had one car where the handbrake mech lost it's teeth, a Hyundai Tucson, if you're careful you can remake the teeth with a needle file. This is what I did and it perfect the whole time I had the car. I've still no idea how it lost the teeth in the first place.

[RoverFolkUs]

23 hours ago, SiC said:

I disconnected the MAF after a drive to warm the car up. Arse Dyno suggests it's much more lively with it disconnected. So presumably either a vacuum leak somewhere or MAF is tired.

MAF looks immaculate inside. Has Siemens written on it, which suggests it's not a cheap part. Hard to know if genuine or not but I think it is. Can't see any date codes on it though. Too expensive to parts dart with a new one. About £180 for a genuine Siemens VDO from Autodoc. So unlikely I'll be doing that.

MOT booked for 10th May 🤞

There is a breather pipe which commonly splits, it goes from somewhere just after the air box to somewhere under the inlet manifold. Sorry I can't be more helpful than that as I can't remember exact details but a smoke test finds it! It will usually nudge the emmisions into an MOT fail though so all may or may not be revealed when you get it done

[SiC]

1 hour ago, rainagain said:

I've only had one car where the handbrake mech lost it's teeth, a Hyundai Tucson, if you're careful you can remake the teeth with a needle file. This is what I did and it perfect the whole time I had the car. I've still no idea how it lost the teeth in the first place.

Apparently it's a known thing on these age BMWs to have the teeth wear out. Presumably not hardened or something like that. 

Replacing the handbrake handle officially requires dropping the exhaust and prop shaft from underneath. Like this.

Unofficially you can bend the metal up top to gain access to the mounting bolts.

I'll adjust it all up properly and see how it performs. Ideally it'll be fine on the notches that are there and I won't have to go any further. 

[SiC]

1 hour ago, RoverFolkUs said:

There is a breather pipe which commonly splits, it goes from somewhere just after the air box to somewhere under the inlet manifold. Sorry I can't be more helpful than that as I can't remember exact details but a smoke test finds it! It will usually nudge the emmisions into an MOT fail though so all may or may not be revealed when you get it done

Is this on the rubber intake pipe? I know that often goes (from googling). I have checked that and it's in excellent condition. Date coded 2017 so definitely not original.

Hard pipe going to that has no splits either.

 

Given the engine light only comes on after a long run and only once in my ownership (albeit I have seen pending codes too), I don't think it's a major leak if there is a vac leak. Might just be one of those old car/BMW things that have to be lived with. Especially if it passes the MOT as it is. 

I've also read that cracks in the plastic cam cover can do it. Likewise leaky oil caps can too. 

I might pull the dipstick and/or cap to see if the running changes dramatically. Ideally should of course but if it doesn't then it suggests it's adapted to the air leak already. 

[SiC]

I believe also there is a vac line that goes from the engine to the fuel tank where the Fuel Pressure Regulator is. Like a car length vac line is going to cause any issues. Great job BMW engineering 😒

I'll get my hand vacuum pump out and vacuum that whole section. Brake booster, charcoal canister and FPR vac line. They all come off the same intake hose port. If that holds vacuum for a decent amount of time at least I know that side is all good. 

[RoverFolkUs]

2 minutes ago, SiC said:

Is this on the rubber intake pipe? I know that often goes (from googling). I have checked that and it's in excellent condition. Date coded 2017 so definitely not original.

Hard pipe going to that has no splits either.

 

Given the engine light only comes on after a long run and only once in my ownership (albeit I have seen pending codes too), I don't think it's a major leak if there is a vac leak. Might just be one of those old car/BMW things that have to be lived with. Especially if it passes the MOT as it is. 

I've also read that cracks in the plastic cam cover can do it. Likewise leaky oil caps can too. 

I might pull the dipstick and/or cap to see if the running changes dramatically. Ideally should of course but if it doesn't then it suggests it's adapted to the air leak already. 

Hmm, no I believe it would be whatever pipe/hose is attached to the smaller part you are holding in photo #2? 

[SiC]

5 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Hmm, no I believe it would be whatever pipe/hose is attached to the smaller part you are holding in photo #2? 

Iirc that goes to the vacuum system for the FPR/Brake boost/Charcoal canister that I mentioned above.

6 minutes ago, SiC said:

I believe also there is a vac line that goes from the engine to the fuel tank where the Fuel Pressure Regulator is. Like a car length vac line is going to cause any issues. Great job BMW engineering 😒

I'll get my hand vacuum pump out and vacuum that whole section. Brake booster, charcoal canister and FPR vac line. They all come off the same intake hose port. If that holds vacuum for a decent amount of time at least I know that side is all good. 

 

[SiC]

That whole lot is the next thing I'm going to look at. Right now my first priorities are having good brakes. 😄

I just hope it's not a worn out MAF. At £180 for a genuine Siemens/VDO unit, I'm not in too much of a rush to replace it willy nilly.

[SiC]

12 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Hmm, no I believe it would be whatever pipe/hose is attached to the smaller part you are holding in photo #2? 

Oh just re-read your message and was talking about that smaller hose I was holding in the second picture (not the second pipe in the first picture). Teach me for skim reading while in-between doing stuff. 

That I believe went to an aluminium fitting on the cam cover. So presumably part of the engine PCV system.

[RoverFolkUs]

Just now, SiC said:

Oh just re-read your message and was talking about that smaller hose I was holding in the second picture (not the second pipe in the first picture). Teach me for skim reading while in-between doing stuff. 

That I believe went to an aluminium fitting on the cam cover. So presumably part of the engine PCV system.

I'm now wondering it could be a different engine that I'm thinking of but I do remember it being a small pipe of that sort of diameter that went from the "complicated" air box hose and travelled along the inlet manifold and then disappeared under it out of view, but it was readily felt and detached to be replaced if you were finding it all by feel. 

What I do remember is that it was a rubber hose rather than the typical BMW corrugated plastic pipes that always disintegrates

I suppose it's a moot point unless you do a smoke test or have any other info to go off. 

I don't suppose you have a scope? You could test the MAF sensor quite easily using one 

[SiC]

13 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

I'm now wondering it could be a different engine that I'm thinking of but I do remember it being a small pipe of that sort of diameter that went from the "complicated" air box hose and travelled along the inlet manifold and then disappeared under it out of view, but it was readily felt and detached to be replaced if you were finding it all by feel. 
What I do remember is that it was a rubber hose rather than the typical BMW corrugated plastic pipes that always disintegrates
I suppose it's a moot point unless you do a smoke test or have any other info to go off. 
I don't suppose you have a scope? You could test the MAF sensor quite easily using one 

I don't have any great photos of that area but I have this



MAF/airbox tube is coming down from the left.

Right is the induction noise box that pipes it to the cabin (thru a diaphragm)

Left and above of that (followed to the hose clip) you'll see that ribbed pipe (that you mentioned about) that goes to the engine crank/cam case.

Then the small pipe out of that fat airbox intake tube goes to the right of that ribbed pipe. That assortment goes to brake boost and (I think) charcoal canister and FPR.

I need to have a hunt around for diagrams but I believe that's it for the vacuum system on this.

I have a scope but presumably I can reasonably test a MAF through live data? Or are you saying using the scope to get quicker updates while doing stuff like snap throttle openings. I need to dig out a pin out for the MAF too. Has five or six pins and I'm not sure how much processing is done on the MAF or what is done directly in the ECU.

[SiC]

22 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

unless you do a smoke test

This is a novel DIY implementation of one 🤣

https://zroadster.org/threads/homemade-vacuum-smoke-tester.36559/

 

[Dave_Q]

You jest but if you buy one off eBay for £150, that is gonna be basically what's inside

[JakeT]

Oh yes, you’re dealing with classic E46 problems one at a time. I bought a mk4 Golf GTI years ago and went through just about every common problem and you’re going to do this with the Z4.

 

the backing plates are fine when cut, it’s better than pulling the bearing apart. And the axle will be stuck anyway. I’ve just used big repair washers to make the handbrake work, and then forgot about it.

M54s are pretty bad for vac leaks. There’s a crankcase breather system where the hoses will perish and cause a vacuum leak, as you say there’s also the FPR, inlet boot (yours looks fine) and other bits like a sound symposer. These cars are crap with throttle response even when fully working. They also use the idle air valve instead of the throttle at small pedal pressures. You can check it works by removing it and shaking it. If it rattles open and closed, it’s good. If not clean it out and try again.

Z3s and Z4s don’t seem to be as well built as  their 3 series cousins. Maybe it’s being built in the US, but who knows.

I am (sadly) a serial BMW licker and have had the misfortune to work on and own more than my fair share. Why BMW gets so much praise I don’t really know sometimes, but I suppose them going sideways and making a nice noise doing it makes people forget a lot.

[SiC]

22 minutes ago, JakeT said:

They also use the idle air valve instead of the throttle at small pedal pressures.

I'm surprised it used an IAV. Didn't see one or where one be attached when I removed the throttle body. 

[JakeT]

They’re a separate unit, silver cylinder. Under the inlet manifold. If memory serves me correctly the second, smaller hose in that rubber inlet bellows feeds it.

[wuvvum]

14 hours ago, SiC said:

If you own a BMW Z4, the car needs to be raised every 200 miles... ( @wuvvum probably feels this pain too 😅)

200 miles?  I wish... 🥴

My handbrake ratchet is a bit dodgy as well.  Only cars I've previously experienced that on were the two Austin A35s.

[RoverFolkUs]

8 hours ago, SiC said:

I don't have any great photos of that area but I have this



MAF/airbox tube is coming down from the left.

Right is the induction noise box that pipes it to the cabin (thru a diaphragm)

Left and above of that (followed to the hose clip) you'll see that ribbed pipe (that you mentioned about) that goes to the engine crank/cam case.

Then the small pipe out of that fat airbox intake tube goes to the right of that ribbed pipe. That assortment goes to brake boost and (I think) charcoal canister and FPR.

I need to have a hunt around for diagrams but I believe that's it for the vacuum system on this.

I have a scope but presumably I can reasonably test a MAF through live data? Or are you saying using the scope to get quicker updates while doing stuff like snap throttle openings. I need to dig out a pin out for the MAF too. Has five or six pins and I'm not sure how much processing is done on the MAF or what is done directly in the ECU.

I'm just going to say smoke test needed before I start speculating any further on those hoses 😀

Yes exactly that, I'm getting at checking raw data, I've had processed live data tell me lies before. I'll have a look on my scope database tomorrow and I can probably find the known good values and pinout for it.