Many reasons NOT to buy a discovery 2. Not completely Broken again.

[sutty2006]

28 minutes ago, andy18s said:

Is that a Metric mouthfull?

No it’s imperial. I still work on old money sometimes! 

[sutty2006]

Made it down to Salisbury (160ish) miles on Friday for a weekend of green laning. 
 

fantastic day for it today

 

 

got it dirty

 

then got it even dirtier.

 

had to double back because lost front number plate in a river. Didn’t find it. 

 

 

 

tested out its flex. This is a standard D2 with ACE and Air still working. But the ACE is leaking still. 
 

 

back at camp now. Time to chill.

[sutty2006]

More pics 

 

 

[straightSix]

This thread is really making me want another Disco 2. It's probably been long enough for me to have forgotten the pain of the last one...

[Noel Tidybeard]

it looks so very terminally broken in this pic🤣

[N Dentressangle]

Salisbury Plain mud is some of the stickiest, hardest to remove mud I have ever plastered a Land Rover in. My advice would be to wash the horrible stuff off as soon as you get the chance.

 

[sutty2006]

5 hours ago, Noel Tidybeard said:

it looks so very terminally broken in this pic🤣

Weirdly, doing what it’s supposed to do. I think a lot of people on the D2 Facebook page have forgotten how working ACE, air and low box work 🤣. 
 

4 hours ago, N Dentressangle said:

Salisbury Plain mud is some of the stickiest, hardest to remove mud I have ever plastered a Land Rover in. My advice would be to wash the horrible stuff off as soon as you get the chance.

 

I’ve had worse. Iron bridge was aaalllllllllll clay and that shit is horrid. This Salisbury plain mud seams to dry up and fall off fairly easy. But I have heat washed it 4 times now and it’s still coming out. Hahaha 🤣 

[N Dentressangle]

It's gritty, chalky nastiness. Perfect for making everything wear 10x faster than normal

[red5]

Let me know - I'll bring the heap 

 

[sutty2006]

1 hour ago, N Dentressangle said:

It's gritty, chalky nastiness. Perfect for making everything wear 10x faster than normal

Can’t be any worse than the pot holes around stoke. They have done the most damage. 
 

constant weekly green laning on that place would put pay to anything. My rear trailing arm bushes are crap, but are no worse than when I left 🤣 but you’re right, some of it can be very bumpy and bouncy indeed

[sutty2006]

I’ve been living with a slight oil leak from the ACE valve block for a while now. Minimal top ups were required. I knew the front ram pipes were rotten, and they were on the list of jobs to do. But at £150 each then £40 for seals and £20 for collets (£360 ish total) I’ve been putting it off. 
 

the trip to Salisbury saw the leak get worse, to the point where I was frequently topping the fluid up on the way home. I originally looked at it, and it wasn’t coming from the rusty old pipes, but the new pipe seals. Last Friday I bought new seals (£40) and fitted them. The leak wasn’t cured. Bugger. 
 

now, I’ve seen it done where folk have converted to hydraulic hoses, and proper fittings. It turns out that where the seals sit, is corroded (aluminium) and that no amount of new pipes or seals would cure that. So instead of wasting circa £600 on more pipes and a replacement valve block I bit the bullet and stripped the block off. 
 

you can see the new pipes at the bottom. 

 

the pipes come out easily with a tool I made. 
 

here is the back end of the block in my mates digital lathe. He’s one of the best engineers I know, and if he can’t do it, no one can. 

 

the original hole was cut down 1mm to remove the corrosion and allow a dowerty washer to seal. You can see the level of corrosion in there, and this one wasn’t leaking! 

 

the hole was then tapped to 1/4 BSP with a male to male adapter (10L)

 

don’t worry, we plugged the holes beforehand!

after we finished, I took it home and refitted it to the chassis. I’m waiting on 4 more fittings before I can continue. 

 

Now the pipes are removed, labelled and in the boot of my Carlton, I can take them to the shop tomorrow to be made into hydraulic hoses. 
 

here’s the front ram. I’ve had to remove the arch liners to get to the hoses. 

 

while I’m here, there’s a small amount of corrosion to the bulkhead which was picked up on last MOT (“you best have a look at that before it’s next mot” 😉)

 

ohhhh. Fuck. 
 

that’s not good. Especially how there’s wiring looms and fuse boxes above that. 
 

fuck fuck fucking FUCK. 

 

I HATE LANDROVERS. 
 

And I sliced my finger open on it. 
 

 

bastard. 

[RayMK]

It needs to be threatened.

[sutty2006]

7 hours ago, RayMK said:

It needs to be threatened.

Filled by this ??

 

[N Dentressangle]

Is that actually structural on a D2? It's not on a D1, although arguably the bit closest to the brake MC might be considered.

I would put an asbestos mat over the top side and weld up the piece closest to the bulkhead, then either weld or just rivet some ally panels into the rest, seam seal, paint and job's a good un.

[sutty2006]

Access above the inner wing is going to be difficult as there’s wiring looms and a giant fuse box above it. All looks horrendous to remove. 

[Austin-Rover]

Jees! I miss driving ours, but I don't miss its constant needyness and demands for time and money. Ours had some crustyness of the inner wings which we never investigated so I'm looking forward to more details of your repairs (even though you might not be looking forward to repairing it! 😄)

Incidentally, we got shut for a Freeloader 2 which is slightly more robust and broken slightly less often. 

[Mrcento]

The best thing to do there, sadly, is just cut the whole thing out and stick new inner wings or repair panels in from somewhere like YRM.

[sutty2006]

I have done this bit by bit. 
 

Got half way through today and went to get dowty seals for the hydro ram (wrong size) and some spray waxoil from hellfrauds. Cracked on with the welding and ran out of wire 3 inches along the last plate. 
 

 

 

 

that will do pig. That’ll do. 

[sutty2006]

Forward hydraulic hoses are on, but I need new washers for the ram. So can’t build front up until I get that sorted. 

it was a bit nerve wracking cutting these old fittings off to fit new ones, once cut, no going back! I hope they don’t leak!

 

these two banjos just need washers. 

 

The valve block. 
 

 

and just need to secure these pipes in place

 

 

 

[2flags]

Looking good so far.

[sutty2006]

A bit more done today. 
 

all the hoses are now routed, and secure, bar one area that I need to get some rubber protectors for (not condoms) to stop chafing. 
 

I made brackets from stainless but will waxoil everything once it’s running and 100% leak free. 
 

 

There is sufficient room to allow suspension travel not to foul anything.

 

the pipes aren’t 100% neat, but they’ll do for now. Won’t see it when it’s covered in road shit. 
 

 

as for the rear, well, yeah. The rear pipes are fecking long, and I’m skint. And they go up and over the chassis and off to somewhere I can’t see. And they aren’t leaking. So fuck taking all that off. 
 

I’ll have two little hoses made up for here, and join them to the rear pipes which are in pretty decent shape anyway. 
 

that reminds me. Must put more waxoil on the arch. 

[goosey]

Did you ask the hose supplier to make them in Stainless Overbraid PTFE or is that what they recommended? 

[sutty2006]

49 minutes ago, goosey said:

Did you ask the hose supplier to make them in Stainless Overbraid PTFE or is that what they recommended? 

It was the only way to the the right internal bore and external diameter pipe to suit. It’s just not very flexible but I’ve made it work. 

[sutty2006]

Today went from good to bad. 
 

got two short pipes made up. Picked up some CHF (central hydraulic fluid) the correct stuff and fitted the pipes to the back of the valve block. 
 

Topped up the fluid, started the engine and immediately went BANG. 
 

 

fucking great. Blown the high pressure pipe off the pump. 
 

Swore a lot, threw some tools around, now having dinner, angrily. 

[sutty2006]

Well, here’s the buggered pipe. I wonder what that crimped bit does? 

[goosey]

16 hours ago, sutty2006 said:

Well, here’s the buggered pipe. I wonder what that crimped bit does? 

Sometimes their fitted on PAS hoses to hold a metal internal spiral/helix in place inside the hose 

[sutty2006]

2 minutes ago, goosey said:

Sometimes their fitted on PAS hoses to hold a metal internal spiral/helix in place inside the hose 

Done some research last night and this morning. Apparently it’s a vibration damper. Without it, the pump can be noisy as it pushes fluid through. 
 

 

 

an interesting thing. 
 

so, options. 
 

1. buy a britpart replacement. Reviews from everywhere state the britpart one is noisy and annoying. And at £85 plus vat, not right now thanks! 
 

2. Buy genuine. So far, unable to find one. Probably massive money too if it can be found. 
 

3. repair the hose. 
 

so a hose guy came to work today. He said the chances of crimping those in place is slim, so replaced it for some standard pipe to “get me out the shit”. 
 

 

meh. If it’s noisy, then right now I don’t care. I need it mobile again. 

[Surface Rust]

If it's noisy have you got anything to lose by putting a jubilee clamp around the pipe in the same spot as the 'vibration damper '?

Might have a similar effect, it might be the restriction that creates the damping effect.

[sutty2006]

Well, it’s all up and running. I fitted the temp hose and rebuilt it. No leaks, no burst hoses…….. but one hell of a whine from the system. That hose won’t last long before I get fed up of the noise and vibration from it. 

[jakebullet]

You're very brave. So glad mine's a base* on coils with no sunroof.