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Many reasons NOT to buy a discovery 2. Broken again.


sutty2006

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28 minutes ago, andy18s said:

Is that a Metric mouthfull?

No it’s imperial. I still work on old money sometimes! 

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  • sutty2006 changed the title to Many reasons NOT to buy a discovery 2. Salisbury weekend away.

Made it down to Salisbury (160ish) miles on Friday for a weekend of green laning. 
 

fantastic day for it today

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got it dirty

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then got it even dirtier.

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had to double back because lost front number plate in a river. Didn’t find it. 

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tested out its flex. This is a standard D2 with ACE and Air still working. But the ACE is leaking still. 
 

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back at camp now. Time to chill.

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This thread is really making me want another Disco 2. It's probably been long enough for me to have forgotten the pain of the last one...

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Salisbury Plain mud is some of the stickiest, hardest to remove mud I have ever plastered a Land Rover in. My advice would be to wash the horrible stuff off as soon as you get the chance.

 

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5 hours ago, Noel Tidybeard said:

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it looks so very terminally broken in this pic🤣

Weirdly, doing what it’s supposed to do. I think a lot of people on the D2 Facebook page have forgotten how working ACE, air and low box work 🤣
 

4 hours ago, N Dentressangle said:

Salisbury Plain mud is some of the stickiest, hardest to remove mud I have ever plastered a Land Rover in. My advice would be to wash the horrible stuff off as soon as you get the chance.

 

I’ve had worse. Iron bridge was aaalllllllllll clay and that shit is horrid. This Salisbury plain mud seams to dry up and fall off fairly easy. But I have heat washed it 4 times now and it’s still coming out. Hahaha 🤣 

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It's gritty, chalky nastiness. Perfect for making everything wear 10x faster than normal

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1 hour ago, N Dentressangle said:

It's gritty, chalky nastiness. Perfect for making everything wear 10x faster than normal

Can’t be any worse than the pot holes around stoke. They have done the most damage. 
 

constant weekly green laning on that place would put pay to anything. My rear trailing arm bushes are crap, but are no worse than when I left 🤣 but you’re right, some of it can be very bumpy and bouncy indeed

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  • sutty2006 changed the title to Many reasons NOT to buy a discovery 2. Broken again.

I’ve been living with a slight oil leak from the ACE valve block for a while now. Minimal top ups were required. I knew the front ram pipes were rotten, and they were on the list of jobs to do. But at £150 each then £40 for seals and £20 for collets (£360 ish total) I’ve been putting it off. 
 

the trip to Salisbury saw the leak get worse, to the point where I was frequently topping the fluid up on the way home. I originally looked at it, and it wasn’t coming from the rusty old pipes, but the new pipe seals. Last Friday I bought new seals (£40) and fitted them. The leak wasn’t cured. Bugger. 
 

now, I’ve seen it done where folk have converted to hydraulic hoses, and proper fittings. It turns out that where the seals sit, is corroded (aluminium) and that no amount of new pipes or seals would cure that. So instead of wasting circa £600 on more pipes and a replacement valve block I bit the bullet and stripped the block off. 
 

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you can see the new pipes at the bottom. 

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the pipes come out easily with a tool I made. 
 

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here is the back end of the block in my mates digital lathe. He’s one of the best engineers I know, and if he can’t do it, no one can. 

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the original hole was cut down 1mm to remove the corrosion and allow a dowerty washer to seal. You can see the level of corrosion in there, and this one wasn’t leaking! 

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the hole was then tapped to 1/4 BSP with a male to male adapter (10L)

 

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don’t worry, we plugged the holes beforehand!

after we finished, I took it home and refitted it to the chassis. I’m waiting on 4 more fittings before I can continue. 

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Now the pipes are removed, labelled and in the boot of my Carlton, I can take them to the shop tomorrow to be made into hydraulic hoses. 
 

here’s the front ram. I’ve had to remove the arch liners to get to the hoses. 


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while I’m here, there’s a small amount of corrosion to the bulkhead which was picked up on last MOT (“you best have a look at that before it’s next mot” 😉)

 

ohhhh. Fuck. 
 

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that’s not good. Especially how there’s wiring looms and fuse boxes above that. 
 

fuck fuck fucking FUCK. 

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I HATE LANDROVERS. 
 

And I sliced my finger open on it. 
 

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bastard. 

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Is that actually structural on a D2? It's not on a D1, although arguably the bit closest to the brake MC might be considered.

I would put an asbestos mat over the top side and weld up the piece closest to the bulkhead, then either weld or just rivet some ally panels into the rest, seam seal, paint and job's a good un.

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Jees! I miss driving ours, but I don't miss its constant needyness and demands for time and money. Ours had some crustyness of the inner wings which we never investigated so I'm looking forward to more details of your repairs (even though you might not be looking forward to repairing it! 😄)

Incidentally, we got shut for a Freeloader 2 which is slightly more robust and broken slightly less often. 

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I have done this bit by bit. 
 

Got half way through today and went to get dowty seals for the hydro ram (wrong size) and some spray waxoil from hellfrauds. Cracked on with the welding and ran out of wire 3 inches along the last plate. 
 

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that will do pig. That’ll do. 

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Forward hydraulic hoses are on, but I need new washers for the ram. So can’t build front up until I get that sorted. 

it was a bit nerve wracking cutting these old fittings off to fit new ones, once cut, no going back! I hope they don’t leak!

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these two banjos just need washers. 

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The valve block. 
 

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and just need to secure these pipes in place

 

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