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Jaguar S Bype R. Sat since 2016- because there are no* problems with it M8.


Crispian_J_Hotson
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On 1/23/2023 at 9:26 PM, Crispian_J_Hotson said:

Further research points at this car requiring new Catalytic converters, sensors and some repairs to wiring. If I was to 'get by' then I'd take a chance on an upstream sensor replacement and 1 new Cat, but I want to see it done properly so the two options for me to decide is to bin the entire exhaust and get a Powerflow or something similar or install two Magnaflow high flow Cats and all new sensors. I'm looking at pricing but it's not on the priority list, the car is running and the fault is intermittent, plus it's not being used for much at the moment.

What is priority is sorting the rear bushes. The company supplying them failed to deliver and I requested a refund today. It's frustrating as I've a bit of time to spend on the car right now, not so much next month, so fingers crossed that I get refunded soon and buy bushes direct from the supplier for another £30 on top, and get them delivered asap, but it is what it is.

The priority after that is Tyres. It has deathrings on the front and 10 year old pilots on the back which have seen a bit of action with kerbstones. They all need to go and this is around a £750 bill. With an alignment, we're over £800 all in. Once done though, they'll see the best part of 2 years if I avoid all the screws, potholes, old ladies, and other shite laying in the road.

Today I spent a couple of hours sorting the shed out. It gets really untidy and blocked up very quickly. Doing all these little jobs and bits and pieces in the cold and dark usually resulted in me just chucking stuff in there and going in for me tea... until I could bear it no more.

What I did find was the old Mechatronics out of the gearbox still hanging around, so for your interest, this is what it looks like.

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The TCM is pretty much all the black plastic bit which includes two built in turbine speed sensors and the shift sensor, the latter being my issue and is seen being the beige coloured plastic on the left. Here is a closer image of it.

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This slidey bit of plastic is moved by the metal rod via the shift linkage which comes from a cable in the car and it tells the TCM what you have selected. This one has a hard time doing that and produced code P0705. They are known to have been swapped out, but it's a bit of messing around drilling rivets, cutting ribbon like connections and soldering in the replacement. It doesn't look or sound like the most reliable way of doing it.

Here is the underside and the bit you see with the sump removed.

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Those blue and yellow cylinders are the shift solenoids with can also go bad. As far as diagnostics can tell, these are ok so are kept for spares. There are several bolts to undo to get this out which are slightly larger than those you can see left in. You can only take those out, touch these and you'll split the valve block seal which I can imagine, is not fun.

This thing is thrown in all s type boxes from around 2002 onwards, as well as many other makes.

Whist I was at it, I cut open the old engine oil filter to look for crap, and it was dirty but there was no nasty bits. I cut the fuel filter open too. I was a little surprised at what I saw.

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Don't mind the metal shavings, I took a saw to it, what surprised me was the way in which the grey rubber had started to break up. Not so bad if the bulk of it was before filtration but I found some after too.

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And you can tell that by looking into the hole in the middle. There was actually a fragment in there. This was a Wix filter.

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I cannot tell how long it's been in there and have to assume it's longer than 6 years. It's a good reminder to change your filters gents. I now need to have a look at the fuel system after filtration and check none of this rubber crap has made it through. Great.

 

 

Been thinking about the fuel filter.

Yes, it's a WIX special but maybe it was fitted before the advent of E10, or even E5. Therefore not made to cope with any ethanol. 

The ethanol flows through and degrades the rubber which flakes off.

Doesn't make Crispin's life any better, but I wonder how many old shitters have failed this way - or are about to.

I generally throw on a new fuel filter on most of my wrecks BUT I also scrape the eBay barrell for the cheapest one. Which is probably old stock/non ethanol compliant.

Food for thought. 

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And you'd be right. Where you find change in the car in the centre console, this has the old pound coins in there, they went out in 2017. Other history all points to the car being unserviced since 2016, but it was still used in short drives right up until sale, so it would have had a few quids worth of E10 chucked in it since 2021, and it would have sat about. 

Fortunately, I only run the petrol jags on E5 in practice, if i get caught out i e. 'no super M8', I'll only stick minimal E10 in and flush it out as soon as possible with a good glug of E5. The cars can sit for weeks, even months at a time sometimes.

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Say, er... that list of works to do today was a bit optimistic. I couldn't get a start on it until lunchtime and then it took another 45 minutes attempting to get the wiper arm off. Brian struggled. I had to disassemble Brian as a fundimental part of it would not work due to the wiper arm being in the way. We are now naming it Bri, as 50% of the tool is missing.

The issue was that I could not fit the bolts which kept the two sides of the puller taught. This meant that it would just clumsily slip over the arm. I had an idea.

PLAN A

IMG_20230125_131455691.thumb.jpg.0a47206fab8234561b30926c6a39a498.jpg

The pressure screw just slipped off the spindle. Darn it.

PLAN B

Add more ties and the nut.

IMG_20230125_131858253.thumb.jpg.bcc23d9fc6f0c9e606f2f41e3babb6cc.jpg

The clamp just slipped over the wiper arm. Darn it!

PLAN C

Add tie lower down.

IMG_20230125_132209054.thumb.jpg.13fc1f7243e05fe5f695a5e5679c652d.jpg

She's biting but still slipping clumsily off. Darn it!

PLAN D

Install a socket at the top to stop the clamps collapsing...

IMG_20230125_132413046.thumb.jpg.1dcd578067cd3ef0efea0ab595ddfec8.jpg

It's tight, is it working? Nope. The clamps are still loosing bite but only on one side. Progress?

PLAN E

Introduce something for the clamp to bite on...

IMG_20230125_132651013.thumb.jpg.4da10c484585d171e79c754a0438a0a6.jpg

The cable ties are now stretching and it's loosing grip, and clumsily falling apart. This isn't working is it?

PLAN F

Moar tougher restraint!

IMG_20230125_133531779.thumb.jpg.a678eafba00ba5a7e7fa395c54df66ea.jpg

POP!

IMG_20230125_133846230.thumb.jpg.98aa06f0e80bc7165677a7424692424c.jpg

YAY! (distant round of applause)

That took way longer than it should have. There are a couple of factors here that didn't help. a) there's no room to put a tool in and 2) the bottom of the arm is beveled.

IMG_20230125_141046767.thumb.jpg.8d8a1c79c2ebc19647b70aa2ea1d7089.jpg

Still, we won. Then the real nasty stuff could commence!

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13 hours ago, Crispian_J_Hotson said:

Say, er... that list of works to do today was a bit optimistic. I couldn't get a start on it until lunchtime and then it took another 45 minutes attempting to get the wiper arm off. Brian struggled. I had to disassemble Brian as a fundimental part of it would not work due to the wiper arm being in the way. We are now naming it Bri, as 50% of the tool is missing.

The issue was that I could not fit the bolts which kept the two sides of the puller taught. This meant that it would just clumsily slip over the arm. I had an idea.

PLAN A

IMG_20230125_131455691.thumb.jpg.0a47206fab8234561b30926c6a39a498.jpg

The pressure screw just slipped off the spindle. Darn it.

PLAN B

Add more ties and the nut.

IMG_20230125_131858253.thumb.jpg.bcc23d9fc6f0c9e606f2f41e3babb6cc.jpg

The clamp just slipped over the wiper arm. Darn it!

PLAN C

Add tie lower down.

IMG_20230125_132209054.thumb.jpg.13fc1f7243e05fe5f695a5e5679c652d.jpg

She's biting but still slipping clumsily off. Darn it!

PLAN D

Install a socket at the top to stop the clamps collapsing...

IMG_20230125_132413046.thumb.jpg.1dcd578067cd3ef0efea0ab595ddfec8.jpg

It's tight, is it working? Nope. The clamps are still loosing bite but only on one side. Progress?

PLAN E

Introduce something for the clamp to bite on...

IMG_20230125_132651013.thumb.jpg.4da10c484585d171e79c754a0438a0a6.jpg

The cable ties are now stretching and it's loosing grip, and clumsily falling apart. This isn't working is it?

PLAN F

Moar tougher restraint!

IMG_20230125_133531779.thumb.jpg.a678eafba00ba5a7e7fa395c54df66ea.jpg

POP!

IMG_20230125_133846230.thumb.jpg.98aa06f0e80bc7165677a7424692424c.jpg

YAY! (distant round of applause)

That took way longer than it should have. There are a couple of factors here that didn't help. a) there's no room to put a tool in and 2) the bottom of the arm is beveled.

IMG_20230125_141046767.thumb.jpg.8d8a1c79c2ebc19647b70aa2ea1d7089.jpg

Still, we won. Then the real nasty stuff could commence!

My Bri is different (cheaper) than yours. I don't know if this would have helped or hindered. The bevel under the wiper arms can get in the sea, though - what a shit idea.

s-l1600 (2).jpg

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I had plenty of other plans bubbling away. The main issue, of a few, is that the arm sits pretty much up against the scuttle plastic. I was starting to think that I'd have to put the wipers on, and then pull the battery earth/ pull a fuse whilst they were vertical to allow more wiggle room. It has all been assembled now which I will put up in a bit but I think, if this happens again then the set up I invented* is more than capable. You could, if you felt the need, grind flat points into the underside of the arm and paint it although I think that's a bit extreme. Corrosion between the ally arm and steel spindle is what is causing this issue. The actual arm nuts are not supposed to be that tight, 17Nm or something.

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3 hours ago, DSdriver said:

'kin ada what a faff! would drilling a small pit in the top of the spindle to stop the screwy bit slipping have helped?

Copperslip on reassembly?

Of course as it would have something to seat in, but I try and save drills and hammers on things like this for the 'I have no options left/ die you bastard' scenario. The main issue with this particular element was trying to keep a bite on the underside. She's getting lubed, refit post imminent.

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First off, the bit I've been wanting to get at for a while... the pollen filter! This sucker (see what I did there?) had been in there for a while and was quite heavy. Note the date on it.

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Then it was a look at the linkage. The actual linkage bit is fine but there is wear on a brass sleeve in the drivers wiper mount. This is causing some movement. The spindle also rises and falls vertically by about 10mm for whatever reason. A washer and retaining circlip have been removed prior to this image being taken.

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I ate up this play by temporarily installing a couple of washers to see it's effect.

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The whole mechanism was unbolted and those bolts greased and put back in, forcing the mechanism as far up towards the windscreen as possible. I'd like to see if I can replace that brass bushing and also see if the mechanism removes without taking out the servo!

A bit of garden hose was stuck in the vacuum and taped in place, this allowed me to suck out all the debris laying about in the depths. The rubber drain was removed from the drivers side, it was blocked.

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There was a fair bit of corrosion there too so it was all cleaned off, as were the wiper arm spindles. Liberal amounts of grease was applied absolutely everywhere. This is something that I done on my black Stype some years ago which was in bad shape, much like this, and it has been trouble free maintenance since then.

The passenger side drain was also blocked, pine needles too, and a lot of them! This image was taken after I had spent too long ramming a small vacuum hose down there and it repeatedly blocking and pulling crap up.

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So, to better access this I removed the cabin filter box and the plastic tray surround under that. I couldn't get the tray surround out as it seems the strut bar needs to come out and I've seen all those bolts shear and I'm not ready for that fight yet, so left that in and just moved it over to make access. It cleaned up well with a final wipe over with my oily rag. Then the plastics were cleaned and refitted.

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The screen and plastic deflectors to the sides were all cleaned too. There was some remains of insulation but I removed it as it was falling to bits and covering all my cleaned bits with white dust. I shall get some thermal deadening mat to replace it. At least now I can access there with no more bother.

A new filter was bunged in and it was all put back. The drivers wiper now does not contact the bonnet despite the wear, it's close but misses in some weird display of optical illusion. 

Next is to change the supercharger oil, which is a bit of a laugh*. Never done it, so I'll find out!

 

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SUPERCHARGER TIYME111

I've never had a car with one so I've never done this bit. I carried out extensive research last night in preparation. There are some key points:

  • Access is a bitch and getting the oil out is worse.
  • The old oil stinks and maybe radioactive*
  • It needs around 125ml of new oil in it or until it comes back out the fill hole.
  • Plug any gaps around the teeny tiny fill plug so that it doesn't drop down into oblivion and get lost forever.
  • Job duration: up to three hours.

Welp, that wasn't too bad really. Great tip to ram something down the engine to close off any holes. The plug got dropped several times whilst I fudged around with my sausage fingers.

The Americans say a 3/16th allen key goes in. I could not get an allen key in there, 4mm was too small and 5mm couldn't get in, I think I have one 4.5mm but that's MIA by the looks of things. So, being British, I stuck a T30 in there and cracked it off by sticking a tube over it.

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For what it was worth, I removed the intake, because you need too really and took off another breather from bank 1, it just made tight access that little bit better, plus I could see if the breather plastic hose had gone brittle, which it hasn't.

I found that it paid to clean the face with a wire brush as there was a lot of debris shifting about and I didn't want that going back in there. I messed about with sucking out stuff, I read that there was some success by attaching a WD40 type straw to the syringe but I only managed to pull out 40 odd ml and I couldn't seal the pipe joins enough. It just seemed to suck in more air than strain it through the small straw.
So I went to the shed. In there I found a 1986 BMW vacuum line.

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And this had a handy shape in it...

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This allowed the tube supplied in the oil pack to be forced over and secured with a tie. The bore was bigger too so sucking was not such a slow process. I cut the end at an angle as I believe this would allow the end to slip in places better than a straight cut end.

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Ignore the crap on it, this was taken when I was clearing up!

I still messed around trying to get the tube somewhere near any oil, it's a bit like blindly smashing it into a brick wall. I read that going to the left has better results as something was obstructing the entry point. I wondered what this was so got the endoscope out.

Top of hole...

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Bottom left of hole...

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So there is a giant bit of metal in the way but also a little passage but I only had a 5mm gap between the cog and the casing.
Shooting the tube over to the left and massaging it downwards saw success. The rear of the car was jacked up a little and I removed a total of 127ml from the supercharger.

They aren't joking when they say the old fluid looks like a black coffee. The smell wasn't too bad, I can describe it as 'synthetic fish', and you can taste it in the air. It tastes exactly like it smells... which is weird.

Getting the car level, I removed the makeshift oil sucker pipework and just used what came in the kit. I got 150ml of new oil in with it dribbling out. Getting the plug back in was fiddly, verging on frustrating, and this is where the rammed in tissue comes into play... but it got there in the end. It's either loose or tight and I didn't want to hang off it because hopefully, it'll see another change. It took a shade over 2 hours from getting the stuff out and putting it away, so not too bad!

Out on the road, I could now hear the charger where as before it was pretty silent and in the background, that raised a smile!

I still have this exhaust sounding blow to find. It sounds like its coming from bank 1 when I'm in the car but out of the car, I can't hear it at all. I can't see anything obvious and it only does it under load. There is a clear blow under the car from both mid section joints, but this doesn't sound like the location, is the noise travelling up? I dunno... I might live with it until I get the whole exhaust replaced soon. They can find it then.
There are no issues with top ends being starved of oil or anything are there? I was thinking it might be a lifter or something similar?

Oh, and the drivers wiper arm base no longer hits the bonnet! So spacing it out and shifting the linkage mechanism as far up as possible has achieved something, despite play in the brass bearing. 

The car shifts though, the Traction control is always on standby and getting used on these cold wet roads! Very pleased with the results so far.

 

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