PrinceRupert's Cars - MG4 and TVR Tuscan

[Cento16v]

The additive was actually part of a service bulletin.

If there was a noise present then it was added to the fluid, if it remained after (iirc) there was a bush or bearing that could be replaced I  the rack.

I'll try find it.

[Cento16v]

Oh and if they key fob isn't working, lubricate the ignition barrel flap, and work it a few times, they stick sometimes and if the car things the key is still in, then the remote central locking doesn't work.

[PrinceRupert]

1 hour ago, wesacosa said:

if the helper just needs to be willing but not skilled or knowledgeable just give me a shout

Super will likely take you up on that, its just someone to turn the wheel whilst the other fills the fluid, and a second sensible pair of eyes is always helpful.

[PrinceRupert]

Lesson to self - check if things actually need replaced before buying replacements.  The old cabin filter (left) looks cleaner than the new cabin filter (right)...

If anyone needs a cabin filter for an X350 XJ let me know ...

 

EDIT: cabin air filter looks pretty clean too, but changed it anyway.

 

 

[Bear]

I changed the pollen filter - did I forget to mention that in my main thread? It was very spidery and the weather was unpleasant, so you probably cleared more out of there than I managed.

[PrinceRupert]

 

It got pressed into commuting duties yesterday.  The brake judder definitely seems reduced, though need some longer journeys to see if it is resolved.  There is definitely a jitter/shudder to the ride at the moment,  not sure if this is related to the right caliper or possibly the split bushes on the rear tie rods.  Will get those changed and see if it improves. 

This weekends task is flushing the power steering fluid, and will have a go at the rear tie rods and potentially an oil/filter change if I have time (and it is not too cold). 

[PrinceRupert]

With thanks to my beautiful assistant / mentor @wesacosa the power steering fluid was flushed today

Would have been easy with the proper kit - airbox out, syringe fluid out of reservoir, return line off reservoir, blank off cap, connect pipe to return line and into bucket, 4l funnel on top of reservoir full of ps fluid, turn engine on and let drain through.

We had a bit of difficulty without having the right blanking caps, pipes and funnels.  Getting a seal for it not to leak at funnel to reservoir interplay was a challenge and my drive now looks like the exxon valdez.  But a bit of ingenuity and managed to make it work.  Amazing how quickly the pump draws 4l fluid through the system and most of my 9 quid a litre dexron iii ended up in it - best part of 5l used in the end and suspect system capacity is about 2l.

 

Desperately needs done as this is not what it should look like!

 

 

[wesacosa]

the procedure said to turn lock to lock 3 times slowly (5 seconds per steering wheel turn) but the 4L had gone before we had done one

Did you find the procedure for bleeding @PrinceRupert ?  Assume its just turning the steering once it's all filled up and back together?

[PrinceRupert]

That's exactly right - wheels off ground, cap off, lock to lock a few times.  I was out in it today and everything is smooth and quiet - might be placebo effect, but steering seems lighter than before!

 

The drivetrain vibration persists, and I'm not convinced it is related to the possibly binding brake caliper.  It isn't pitching under braking or pulling to one side, and the vibration seems to be road surface dependent.  So am assuming something in the suspension somewhere.  Suggestions welcome, couldn't see anything obviously amiss other than the split boots on the rear tie rods.  Perhaps worth getting wheels balanced and tracking done.

[wesacosa]

is it at certain speed/gear combinations or all the time? any difference throttle on versus coasting. Wondering if its prop shaft related

[High Jetter]

16 minutes ago, PrinceRupert said:

Perhaps worth getting wheels balanced and tracking done.

That's perhaps the easiest and cheapest place to start. You'll save money in reduced tyre wear if tracking adjustment needed.

[PrinceRupert]

It doesn't seem to be linked to road speed or engine speed or if coasting or accelerating.  It's almost more of an intermittent shudder than a vibration.  Inspected the tyres and there is some cracking but doesn't seem to be obvious signs of poor alignment.  The tyres are all dated 2012 though...and tyres are 140 quid a corner...ouch.

[Bear]

In the main thread I rambled about 'if it were in daily use I'd want to sort the brakes and tyres' - that's partly because the car's spent a LONG time not being used and unlike my old setup where the SLK was never on the ground when out of use for an extended time (I used to lift it up on a mini ramp/lift thing), the Jag's been on the wheels the whole time.

I would not be at all surprised if the tyres were flat spotted, not just for the time I had it out of use but for the time it may have been out of use before then.

The brakes were definitely binding after 35 miles or so so I think you have improved that, it's not effort wasted.

[Bear]

(There are bits of road here that make even the 1000 mile 3008 feel like it's shuddering, too. Roads are awful these days for judging car suspension 😕 )

[DirtyDaily]

Sorry been super busy if you still need the brake caliper drop me a message and I'll check I've got the right one, not sure if they're different on each side?

[PrinceRupert]

9 minutes ago, DirtyDaily said:

Sorry been super busy if you still need the brake caliper drop me a message and I'll check I've got the right one, not sure if they're different on each side?

No worries don't think i need it at the minute but will let you know if that changes, thanks a lot

[PrinceRupert]

13 hours ago, RichardK said:

In the main thread I rambled about 'if it were in daily use I'd want to sort the brakes and tyres' - that's partly because the car's spent a LONG time not being used and unlike my old setup where the SLK was never on the ground when out of use for an extended time (I used to lift it up on a mini ramp/lift thing), the Jag's been on the wheels the whole time.

I would not be at all surprised if the tyres were flat spotted, not just for the time I had it out of use but for the time it may have been out of use before then.

The brakes were definitely binding after 35 miles or so so I think you have improved that, it's not effort wasted.

Thanks, yeah the tyres evidently need replaced, but slightly balking at the 140 quid a corner even mid range tyres cost!  Wondering if I can find a set of part worns, or potentially sell the 19" wheels which are surely desirable to someone and buy smaller wheels with tyres on them.  I'd be a bit annoyed if I spent a decent whack on tyres and it didn't solve the vibration issue as well ...

[wesacosa]

might we worth getting tyres checked for balance first. would have thought a flat spot from just having it sat for a while would eventually go with correct pressure and running

Happy to come and have a listen to it.   I used to do noise/vibration stuff for work . Mainly on engines rather than driveline but happy to have a listen

[PrinceRupert]

2 minutes ago, wesacosa said:

might we worth getting tyres checked for balance first. would have thought a flat spot from just having it sat for a while would eventually go with correct pressure and running

Happy to come and have a listen to it.   I used to do noise/vibration stuff for work . Mainly on engines rather than driveline but happy to have a listen

Good point. I'll take you up on that offer.  You could take it for a drive and see what you think. 

[PrinceRupert]

1 hour ago, wesacosa said:

might we worth getting tyres checked for balance first. would have thought a flat spot from just having it sat for a while would eventually go with correct pressure and running

Happy to come and have a listen to it.   I used to do noise/vibration stuff for work . Mainly on engines rather than driveline but happy to have a listen

Going to run it into Morris Tyres round the corner and see what he thinks.  Had a chat with him this morning and he was pretty insistent it is unlikely to be wheel balancing but rather flat spotted tyres or buckled/cracked wheel, but said to take it in and he would have a look.

[wesacosa]

could be.  If its not wheel related I would be thinking propshaft of maybe wheel bearings as next port of call. But as I say happy to listen for you

[Cento16v]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-20-Genuine-Alloys-With-Tyres-5x108-Xk-XJ-S-Type-/125126901574?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

[PrinceRupert]

1 minute ago, Cento16v said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-20-Genuine-Alloys-With-Tyres-5x108-Xk-XJ-S-Type-/125126901574?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Oooh are these not proper desirable mega money wheels?  Not sure how I'd get them to me from Birmingham though ...

[DirtyDaily]

Oooh are these not proper desirable mega money wheels?  Not sure how I'd get them to me from Birmingham though ...

Not confident they are tbh. Mine look different and are the correct split rims. I do have a set of alloys at home also... wasn't sure if I wanted to part with them but I'll have a look and see

[DirtyDaily]

I will qualify my response and say I'm not sure if jaguar had a different design that looked similar? They're called sepangs on mine

[Cento16v]

They were option wheels, they're pretty rare by all accounts.

 

 

 

[Bear]

Sabres on this one are supposedly desirable. I liked that they have sidewall

[PrinceRupert]

Went for a spin with @wesacosa this morning to try and identify source of vibration/fidgety ride

Not convinced it is drivetrain related.  Seems like it might be a suspension issue.  Front right is particularly squeaky when pressed down on, and rears squeak a bit.  Rear seem pretty hard but not sure what it should be like.  Definitely isnt stuck in CATS hard mode as i pulled air compressor fuse and it made ride markedly worse.   No air suspension fault codes so hoping it is something relatively straight forward.  

 

[PrinceRupert]

So attempted to fit the rear suspension links today.  What a nightmare.  

The outer bolt came out easy.  The inner bolt was stuck tight but plenty of penetrating oil and a bit of effort and it turned.  Except it turned on both the outside and the inside and quickly mangled the ball joint.  I didn't realise at the time, but I think there was a hex slot on the end to keep it in place whilst it turned. 

Over two hours of cursing and swearing (with some help from @wesacosa), mainly trying to clamp with mole grips to stop it turning, we had got it turned about halfway off but it refused to go any further on the rusty thread.  We then tried to cut it off with a dremel, but the discs kept snapping.  Eventually, we cut through the bolt, then i drilled that wider, then chiselled it wider, and eventually could turn it off. 

Problem I now have is that the new part is impossible to tighten.  It has a slot for a spanner to fit on, except it is impossible to get a spanner to fit on it, as the bracket stops the head getting on and the body stops you getting in from an angle.  I am nervous about clamping with mole grips again as run the risk of damaging the boot. The aftermarket links I have don't have the hex slot on the end to hold them in place.  Any ideas?

Dreading doing the other side where the access is even worse ...

 

[PrinceRupert]

The bit circled in blue is where you are apparently meant to get a spanner in.