Rover 827 update.... more daily-ing and breaking things...

[Marina door handles]

Well I think the Rustival deadline was too optimistic. One of the tanks split at the radiator specialists (not surprising given the condition) they are currently making a new tank for it but  that has delayed thing obviously as its a custom fabrication. Looks like I will be taking my SF Forester instead its not as exciting as Dolly Wobbler's Turbo as it is snail less but its probably more comfy! 

[St.Jude]

53 minutes ago, Marina door handles said:

Well I think the Rustival deadline was too optimistic. One of the tanks split at the radiator specialists (not surprising given the condition) they are currently making a new tank for it but  that has delayed thing obviously as its a custom fabrication. Looks like I will be taking my SF Forester instead its not as exciting as Dolly Wobbler's Turbo as it is snail less but its probably more comfy! 

Is it just the radiator stopping it going?

Thats a real shame if that’s the case. But you never know they might surprise you and get it done ASAP!

Keep the faith sir ✊

[Marina door handles]

1 minute ago, St.Jude said:

Is it just the radiator stopping it going?

Thats a real shame if that’s the case. But you never know they might surprise you and get it done ASAP!

Keep the faith sir ✊

I am running a bit short of spare time at the mo. I am not 100% sure why it got a bit toasty but as a precaution I am going to do the water pump (which means doing the cambelt) and thermostat as well. The other issue is getting it MOT'ed (assuming it passes  easily and I haven't missed something else) and then Gaydon is a fair drive and I would want to be confident that its going to make it all the way! 

[St.Jude]

1 minute ago, Marina door handles said:

I am running a bit short of spare time at the mo. I am not 100% sure why it got a bit toasty but as a precaution I am going to do the water pump (which means doing the cambelt) and thermostat as well. The other issue is getting it MOT'ed (assuming it passes  easily and I haven't missed something else) and then Gaydon is a fair drive and I would want to be confident that its going to make it all the way! 

That’s annoying!

How long have you got with the show coming up? 

[Marina door handles]

7 hours ago, St.Jude said:

That’s annoying!

How long have you got with the show coming up? 

About one weekend and a few evenings, I used to do strange shifts and get 4 days off in a row but not anymore. Doing normal working weeks really gets in the way of things! 

[St.Jude]

19 minutes ago, Marina door handles said:

About one weekend and a few evenings, I used to do strange shifts and get 4 days off in a row but not anymore. Doing a normal working weeks really gets in the way of things! 

You’re telling me. Had hopes of attempting Lada work during my evenings but there has always been something in the way.

[dollywobbler]

Ah bother. Still, at least with Rustival, all wheels are welcome!

[Marina door handles]

Radiator news......  Its back and Applied Radiators appear to have done a beautiful job! What started as a re-core has now ended up as Triggers radiator, the tanks either side are now new too but its definitely the same old rad........

Just need to sort some new oil pipes for it and refit the fans yada yada yada, just don't ask me how much this has cost! 

 

[Marina door handles]

As Rover snagging and fixing has stalled due to various minor issues, its time to prep the disreputable Forester for Rustival ! 

Dashboard has never looked this clean, I even did the air vents! 

The rest of it is getting there, but as it has been (and always will be) the car that does the messy jobs (tip runs etc etc) its never going to be spotless....

Just need to clean the outside though.......

If anyone else is going this heap will be in Mayfair parking, you can come and admire its amazing lacquer peeley tailgate if you need some pog wheezle action! 

 

[hairnet]

On 15/09/2024 at 07:07, Marina door handles said:

 its not as exciting as Dolly Wobbler's Turbo as it is snail less but its probably more comfy! 

FIGHT FIGHT!!!!

[St.Jude]

1 minute ago, hairnet said:

FIGHT FIGHT!!!!

Would that be in the WWE parking or UFC parking of Rustival?

[hairnet]

2 minutes ago, St.Jude said:

Would that be in the WWE parking or UFC parking of Rustival?

Would they have handbags with them

[St.Jude]

39 minutes ago, hairnet said:

Would they have handbags with them

It'd have to be handbags, I don't think I'd be trusting any of their Takata air bags!

[Marina door handles]

1 hour ago, St.Jude said:

Would that be in the WWE parking or UFC parking of Rustival?

Neither I would go WWF parking, I am old skool, also who wouldn't want to fight an endangered species? Come at me you stupid Panda, you're going downnnnnnnnnnn! 

[St.Jude]

51 minutes ago, Marina door handles said:

Neither I would go WWF parking, I am old skool, also who wouldn't want to fight an endangered species? Come at me you stupid Panda, you're going downnnnnnnnnnn! 

That is specifically for Fiats!

[Marina door handles]

Cleaned and ready to go, just don't ask about the NS fog lamp........

Feel free to admire our wheely bin selection! 

 

[High Jetter]

1 hour ago, Marina door handles said:

Cleaned and ready to go, just don't ask about the NS fog lamp........

Feel free to admire our wheely bin selection! 

 

Did you select them, or are they taking over? 🙂

[Marina door handles]

Doesn't time fly when you too many broken cars..... Anyway its 2025, its time to get back on the Rover.

Firstly a weird issue,  a bit like a Subaru, the rear suspension has an excessively long bolt holding the trailing arm to the main bottom arm, unlike the subaru ones these dont rust to the suspension and seize in place but the hex end is pretty small (14mm) and rusts a bit and rounds off making torquing the the thing back up not really possible.....

I did look for a replacement but struggled, its an odd size and not readily available, so I decided to repair the hex end. Cleaned the excess rust off then, added a good dose of weld. Then re shaped it with the finger sander. Not at all straight forward but eventually got to the point were a socket would hold the end effectively and not just slide off under load.

Not a very good picture, you can just see the end on the left which is shiney from were I had to file it back...

I then re fitted it and torqued up.. It worked another job ticked off.

Next job, the electric window switch. I thought I would start with the spare switch, I carefully disassembled it and then realised I couldn't quite remember what issues it actually had, so I plugged it back in to  the car in its partially stripped state and checked its operation..... All windows opened and closed!  I then took it back off,  put it back together and re checked, again all windows worked, the mirror control was a bit odd but I can work around that. Being able to open the windows especially the drivers is way more important to my mind! So that's sort of fixed.....

Then back to the radiator. I re fitted the cooling fans, dusted off the visa card and bought new and slightly incorrect oil lines (for the inbuilt gearbox oil cooler), weirdly Rimmer's only sell oil lines for a none air con car, who would have spec'ed an 827 auto without aircon? I cut some oil hose to length to make up the difference and sort of bodged it, it'll be fine.....

 

The original radiator has 2 temperature/otter switches which have bayonet fittings. The radiator repair people are weary of bayonet fittings and always do screw fit holes, M22 in this case as its a common size. This left me a bit of a challenge, firstly figure out the operating temperature ranges of the original switches - then find equivalent M22 temp switches. Turns out that's not so hard thanks to google. 

Originals......

Bungs out and M22 holes exposed.....

Sorting the wiring as the original connecters wont work.....

In and wiring soldered....

Bit concerned as to how close that air con pipe is to them might have to see if I can bend it a bit out of the way (not like the AC works anyway). That's all for now, next jobs....

Check the wiring diagrams for the temp switches and make sure I have definitely got the terminals the right way around.

Bleed the coolant

Get the exhaust nice and hot, so I can weld a patch

Re bleed the brakes.

Have I forgotten anything?

Bolt and nut check, check lights then........

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maybe just maybe its MOT time after that?????????

 

[Marina door handles]

Update time and no it hasn't been for an MOT yet but I have got a couple more little jobs sorted.

Firstly there was a gaping hole in the exhaust back box, there were a couple of options new back box..... cheapest I could find was about £185! No thanks. Other option a bodgy welded repair......

The choice was an easy one.

Not pretty but that will do.

Next job, the electric windows are playing up yet again and this might sound daft but being able to open and close the drivers window is pretty essential IMO. I did a bit of experimenting

The supposedly good second hand switch pack that had started working okay had decided to play up. I stripped it apart but couldn't find anything obvious so I compared it to the other and definitely faulty original unit. Again nowt obvious (it is based on a printed circuit board so its all very small and hard to examine). I decided to try bridging some of the contacts on the original unit to see what happens and...... Great success! Well if you count making smoke and a bad smell a success? sadly the driver's window wouldn't go up.

I then had a good look at the now smoking original and found a dodgy repair in the circuit board that had now melted! Hmmm a clue perhaps? With nothing to lose I decided to solder a link wire to replace the damaged line. My word this fiddly, I am not that great at soldering and slightly hindered as I have a slight tremor in my left hand... I could never be a Sniper i would be hopeless! 

Not pretty at all, I put it back together and re fitted it to the car and..........

 

It bloody worked, couldn't believe it! Maybe I dont hate soldering after all?

So what does the car need for me to take it for an MOT now? I want to re bleed the brakes (they still feel a bit soft) and try and adjust the handbrake and that is about it i think. I don't have enough confidence in it to drive it to my work for a test (I work at a Main dealer in Stoke), I don't want a break down making me late for work! So it really needs to be done on a day off or a weekend..

anyway that's all for now!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Marina door handles]

I have decided to try and move this project forward. So I have booked an MOT for this Saturday...........

Is the car ready? Not sure I have started to go over it, I remembered to tighten up the new rear drop links as they were only loosely fitted! checked all the lights and found a wing repeater not working (now fixed I think). Ran up the engine, which then over heated......

Let it cool off and then re bled the system (it did have a new radiator fitted). This time around it seemed to hold temperature and the tick over was way more consistent, so I am hoping it was just an air lock - still a tad concerning especially as the fans didn't come on? 

I have chucked some fuel cans in the Subaru, so tomorrow night I am going to pick up some super unleaded on the way home (the Rover is on fumes) and probably give it another bleed and run up and see if I can maybe spoof the fans into coming on........

[Marina door handles]

Smoll update, I tried running it again and after much head scratching realised some things.

The Rover has two fans and two fan switches, one is supposed to be part of the air con system. I cannot remember which was for what (and the AC is borked so that doesn't really matter),  the upper fan switch is low temp 95 degree cut in and the low one is high temp about 110. If you bypass the top switch all yet get is a click from a relay..... The bottom switch was bringing on a fan but presumably a bit too late to be of use.

I cheated and swapped the fan connections of the working fan onto the upper (low temp switch). Crossed my fingers and toes and ran up the engine and waited....

 

Success I think, the fan seems to successfully regulate the engine temperature, so it would seem that CindeRover will be going to the MOTball tomorrow morning.....

[Marina door handles]

Currently sat at the MOT place waiting......

[Marina door handles]

Its bloody passed! Got a few things to sort like extra long brake pedal travel (surprisingly not a fail) and also were the fuck have I put the V5 as it now needs taxing!

 

[N Dentressangle]

Fantastic!

Looking really well, too.

[MJK 24]

On 22/08/2024 at 22:05, R Lutz said:

I've binned so many new OE Rover radiators. Now you can't get them. 

You’d get £100 each for them now I suspect!

[R Lutz]

3 hours ago, MJK 24 said:

You’d get £100 each for them now I suspect!

The sad thing is, I'd have gladly gave them away to just ensure they were used, 

[St.Jude]

Congratulations my man!

No excuse for the rest of us now 😂

[Marina door handles]

Now the elation of the MOT pass has subsided a bit I have been trying to work through the other minor and major issues... I started on trying to improve the long brake pedal and I have found the issue, the brake servo flexes when you hit the pedal and makes the master cylinder twitch upwards which is pretty odd.

On closer inspection I found I had place washers between the servo and master cylinder, that just seems like a pretty stupid mistake. Sure enough as you hit the brake pedal, the master cylinder pivots on the washers! I racked my brain why the hell had I done this? Anyway, I undid the master cylinder, pulled it out of the servo and removed the washers. Refitted it with the washers now behind the nuts as you would expect. 

Now in the correct place....

Test drove and noticed that the car no longer wants to creep on idle, took the car on a very short run but realised that the brakes are now sticking on slightly. So effectively the plunger in the servo sticks out slightly too far and is holding the brakes on.... Great! 

The traditional Rover pose

 

Its as if I need a very slim shim between the servo and master...  Unless there is something inside the master cylinder that shouldn't be there (were the plunger goes in)? 

At least i know what the issue is, just need to figure out how to sort it. 

More to the point now its taxed ,I want to drive it but can't till I have sorted this issue, I like having working brakes! 

[Marina door handles]

Because I'm a boring git I spent the afternoon taking out the master and servo. I made some discoveries.

Firstly I found the plunger/rod thing that acts on the master cylinder was loose. I compared this to an MGF servo I have lying around (like you do) and found that this shouldn't be the case. 

The loose plunger/rod.

Were it should be located....

Compare to an MGF one.... Rod nice and secure.

 I did swap the MGF servo into the Rover some of the fittings were a match and it definitely will fit the master cylinder but I came across an issue. The connection to the brake pedal  is 1cm shorter. This means the pedal is held away from the brake switch and you would need to really bury it in the shag pile and possibly through the bulkhead to stop so that's not going to work as it is. 

I could try and make an adaptor not sure that is a great idea but its an idea.....

Will have to see if I can get a better 800 servo or if I have to adapt the MGF one.....

 

[Marina door handles]

800 news, its back on the road! I have effected a repair and it seems to work, the brakes now feel fairly normal and progressive with a slightly longer pedal travel than I like but maybe normal for an 800? Other than that it drives pretty sweetly, the engine sounds lovely, the gearbox does its automatic thing with little fuss. 

Issues to tackle eventually........ I cannot trust the fuel gauge. I put 4 gallons in the car before its MOT last weekend and it was showing empty, then it was showing half a tank, then it was showing empty after the test, then it pinged back up to about a third full and now its back on empty - with the warning light back on having covered about 3 miles! 

Also I have the PGM  EFI light on, this was on during the MOT but the tester either didn't notice or didn't know it was the engine warning light! Need to do some research on this one as I can't just plug in my code reader, just sort of ignoring that for now.........