BFG regains 2 nil lead - Cookie's adventures in shiteing

[Cookiesouwest]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

You didn't put it in the glove box or in a boot storage as somewhere sensible for it to stay with the car did you? 😀

I haven't checked the gun rack yet

If no joy, I will beg my local garage to plug it in to their Autel.

They run a number of similar era mercs in the family, so I'm guessing they have the tools to talk to the cars.

If that doesnt work, i may need to nurse it over to you for a plug in.

I'm hoping it's just a sensor too and not the magnificently designed computer controlled brakes

 

[Cookiesouwest]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

If you can't find it, you're welcome around here to plug into my Foxwell NT680Pro for a scan. 

🤞 It's just a wheel speed sensor.

Oh and Mrs Cookie has already uttered the dreaded words 'It can't be trusted, maybe we should get another car'

I'm currently looking at mk 3 CRVs and w203 C class. CRV cause Honda. C Class cause amazing heated seats.

 

[drewd]

When I picked up my W203 after it'd been sat unused and the battery had gone flat it displayed a similar warning message. I'd read that the steering angle sensor might have needed recalibrating.

Basically just turn the wheel lock to lock a couple of times then drive it for 100 metres or so. It actually worked for me.

I got the same error 6 months later and had to replace the steering angle sensor behind the steering wheel. But as you've had battery issues it could be worth a try.

[SiC]

5 minutes ago, Cookiesouwest said:

not the magnificently designed computer controlled brakes

All the same system as the SBC is the ABS/ESP system. However you know when the SBC really has major problems as it'll flash up red, beep really loud and tell you to pull over NOW. 

Where as this looks much more sedate with just warning lights on a normal background. 

2 minutes ago, Cookiesouwest said:

uttered the dreaded words 'It can't be trusted, maybe we should get another car'

Yeah I understand that from my missus. However all cars break and this one hasn't left you stranded! Just car issues and while something like a wheel speed sensor is old car issues, all cars have problems including brand new ones. As I'm sure you know too well. The thing I tell my partner is that if it's not stopping you getting to your destination then it's not failing as it's primary job as a piece of transport. 

Right now I keep getting told by Mrs SiC that her 2015 Civic is throwing up warnings that stop/start is not functional at times. Annoyingly it tells you this with a message you can't clear with it leaving a (i) light on and a message on the screen. No code is stored but I think it's the battery sensor going by the fact it's reading 0 Amps being discharged or charged into the battery. I've tried cleaning the connector but I suspect I'll need a new sensor. From memory it's like a £300 sensor new (I'll probably look for a second hand).

Oh and I think the stupid adaptive shock absorbers are starting to leak now. £350 each side, only sold by Honda and currently not available. Used to be £120 each side but they've jacked the price up massively recently. And you can't currently get them. Joy.

So yeah, even reliable Honda's can be a pain in the arse.

[SiC]

Engine EML with ABS/ESP light is very much likely on because the ABS system is in a fault state and the engine computer is probably logging a code to say it's not talking on the bus. Or logging a code because it's not getting information from the ABS system as it should be (like wheel speed/engine load inhibition request which is used to limit power during wheel slippage).

[Cookiesouwest]

27 minutes ago, drewd said:

When I picked up my W203 after it'd been sat unused and the battery had gone flat it displayed a similar warning message. I'd read that the steering angle sensor might have needed recalibrating.

Basically just turn the wheel lock to lock a couple of times then drive it for 100 metres or so. It actually worked for me.

I got the same error 6 months later and had to replace the steering angle sensor behind the steering wheel. But as you've had battery issues it could be worth a try.

Ta. Will give that a try

[Snake Charmer]

8 hours ago, SiC said:

🤞 It's just a wheel speed sensor.

Hopefully not a rear reluctor ring!

 

 

[SiC]

2 hours ago, Snake Charmer said:

Hopefully not a rear reluctor ring!

 

 

Hopefully not as always a pain to do! But then it's not a tricky job, just tedious. One that most garages will be used to doing and I imagine Cookie will be sending it to a garage for it to be fixed anyway. 

TBF to the old crate this is its first major thing it's really needed in almost a year. Par for course on any old car, especially a premium German car. 

[SiC]

That said, going by Cookies description above, it sounds like the warning came on when starting up? If so unlikely the reluctor ring as it can only detect if that's broken when the car is driven.

My money is on a weak battery (Google says it can trigger at low voltage even on the W211) or a wheel speed sensor. Maybe even lucky like my front right sensor on my 330i where it just needed the connector disconnecting and reconnecting to clean the contacts off. Might even self heal after a drive start/stop cycle. 

Of course only guessing until knowing the code that is stored. 

[Volksy]

+1 on replacing the battery, especially as you've already had warnings about it's condition from the car.

My W203 would flag up a ABS/ESC fault when it had been stood a couple of weeks. Would disappear once the battery was back up to charge. Same with the Jag XJ8.

[Snake Charmer]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

Hopefully not as always a pain to do! But then it's not a tricky job, just tedious. One that most garages will be used to doing and I imagine Cookie will be sending it to a garage for it to be fixed anyway. 

TBF to the old crate this is its first major thing it's really needed in almost a year. Par for course on any old car, especially a premium German car. 

The most annoying part of the job was the different types of bolt heads Mercedes have used on each suspension joint; Torx  E-Torx, Spline and Hex socket cap. Took me longer to find all the tools! 😁

[Cookiesouwest]

7 hours ago, SiC said:

That said, going by Cookies description above, it sounds like the warning came on when starting up? If so unlikely the reluctor ring as it can only detect if that's broken when the car is driven.

My money is on a weak battery (Google says it can trigger at low voltage even on the W211) or a wheel speed sensor. Maybe even lucky like my front right sensor on my 330i where it just needed the connector disconnecting and reconnecting to clean the contacts off. Might even self heal after a drive start/stop cycle. 

Of course only guessing until knowing the code that is stored. 

Correct. Appeared on start up. Car hadn't moved.

[Cookiesouwest]

I've pulled the trigger on a new main battery from Tanya.

It needed replacing anyway, if the protective mode warnings are to be believed.

I may get lucky and it fixes the issue.

The hunt for my MB code reader continues. It wasn't in the gun rack

 

[Cookiesouwest]

@SiC and @Snake Charmer

Advice please.

I've used the built in battery check.

Ignition on

Then I start engine and get the usual message

Then I get voltage of

Those numbers seem to suggest battery is actually OK. Glad I just spunked near 200 on a new one lol

If the battery is healthy, why do you think it's going into battery protection on start up?

Any ideas?

Yes, I know I have to get the codes read.

[SiC]

14.0v when running means your alternator is good.

11.5v is pretty low to be honest. That will be a certain amount of load on it but not a huge amount. A quick google says 11.5v is around when the battery protection warning kicks in.

 

You can't accurately tell a battery condition from no load voltage though. Its best tested with a load on - either with a proper tester or seeing the minimum voltage when starting.

To be honest, a new battery is no bad thing on that car. They are a heavy power draw car even when off. I used it in infrequently which wouldn't have helped and @rantingYoof father also used it infrequently too. Car batteries don't like being cycled (let them go discharged and then recharged) frequently. 

 

The only thing I will say is don't go parts darting on it without at the very least getting the codes read.

 

Is the ABS/ESP warning still on after a decent drive cycle (10-15min)?

[Cookiesouwest]

19 minutes ago, SiC said:

14.0v when running means your alternator is good.

11.5v is pretty low to be honest. That will be a certain amount of load on it but not a huge amount. A quick google says 11.5v is around when the battery protection warning kicks in.

 

You can't accurately tell a battery condition from no load voltage though. Its best tested with a load on - either with a proper tester or seeing the minimum voltage when starting.

To be honest, a new battery is no bad thing on that car. They are a heavy power draw car even when off. I used it in infrequently which wouldn't have helped and @rantingYoof father also used it infrequently too. Car batteries don't like being cycled (let them go discharged and then recharged) frequently. 

 

The only thing I will say is don't go parts darting on it without at the very least getting the codes read.

 

Is the ABS/ESP warning still on after a decent drive cycle (10-15min)?

Yes warnings still on. I also tried the suggestion of turning the wheel a few times.

I won't be playing parts darts. I definitely think there is no harm in a new battery, so I'm not that upset at getting a new one ordered.

The hunt for the code reader continues

 

[SiC]

On 29/07/2024 at 21:47, Cookiesouwest said:

Icarsoft v1.0 ordered.

Just to double check, you did actually order it in the end? I know you sent one of them back as it was the wrong type 😅

[Snake Charmer]

21 hours ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Oh and Mrs Cookie has already uttered the dreaded words 'It can't be trusted, maybe we should get another car'

S211 E320CDI or replace Mrs Cookie! 🤣

[SiC]

Bristol CAZ is probably going to be the bugger for that!

Plus these V6 petrols are so incredibly smooth and quiet that really makes the car imo.

 

[Cookiesouwest]

33 minutes ago, SiC said:

Just to double check, you did actually order it in the end? I know you sent one of them back as it was the wrong type 😅

Yes I ordered it. 

Put it somewhere safe. So safe, I haven't found it yet !

[Cookiesouwest]

So, the code reader has been found. In the CRV, under a seat. No, I don't know why I put it there either.

New battery arrived yesterday, so tomorrow, weather permitting, I work out how to remove the third row of seats and then replace the boot floor handle. Then I can change the battery.

As per post in the new news 24 thread, the 9N polo 1.4 Auto has arrived.

I've not driven it. It was delivered straight to Little Cookie's workplace.

She made it home OK, didn't crash

Has reported that driver window does not work and engine noisy.

I did notice a bit of a noise on start up, when delivery driver drove it off the truck, but wasn't paying much attention.

So I've been out and started it. Sounds like a washing machine on full spin, that someone has left a set of spanners in.

Does quIet down a bit when running, but its noticeable.

I have no clue about these engines, so no idea if tadts, or its a problem.

I'm holding off on ordering a window switch pack and parcel shelf, till I get it looked at.

I've told Little Cookie, tadts, so as not to worry her. For all I know, they all do.

I probably should have lifted the bonnet. She has gone out with her boyfriend and has the keys, back tomorrow, so checking will have to wait.

She is happy. She has wheels and is now mobile. 

[SiC]

Those 1.4 engines are known for piston slap. Obviously can't really say without hearing it in person but could well be it.

[Cookiesouwest]

1 minute ago, SiC said:

Those 1.4 engines are known for piston slap. Obviously can't really say without hearing it in person but could well be it.

I'm no mechanic - as you know - but that doesn't sound great lol

Hopefully it's something minor.

[SiC]

Nah it's nothing to worry about if it is piston slap. 

Google "vw 1.4 16v piston slap" and there is loads of info on it. Basically if the engine isn't burning lots of oil then it's fine and TADIS. 

Something to do with the pistons they put in and designed for low fuel economy made it more susceptible to it. At least that was their excuse. Basically the piston to cylinder wall tolerance is too large. Should be much better once warmed up and they've expanded slightly. Back in the day VW did warranty replace engines if people moaned enough but eventually they went "it's normal of the engine".

Most VAG 4 cylinder engines sound shit at idle ime. Even worse when they went to direct injection where the injectors are clattering away too. Their fix was basically more sound insulation on top. 

[SiC]

Also might be the hydraulic tappets too. When was the oil last changed? Fresh oil might not go amiss. 

[Snake Charmer]

1 hour ago, Cookiesouwest said:

So, the code reader has been found. In the CRV, under a seat. No, I don't know why I put it there either.

Wait until you reach 60, safe places are a revelation.😄

Rear seats are easy once you do it once, which handle is broken?

 

[SiC]

I think the seats come out without tools?

[RoverFolkUs]

1 hour ago, Cookiesouwest said:

So, the code reader has been found. In the CRV, under a seat. No, I don't know why I put it there either.

New battery arrived yesterday, so tomorrow, weather permitting, I work out how to remove the third row of seats and then replace the boot floor handle. Then I can change the battery.

As per post in the new news 24 thread, the 9N polo 1.4 Auto has arrived.

I've not driven it. It was delivered straight to Little Cookie's workplace.

She made it home OK, didn't crash

Has reported that driver window does not work and engine noisy.

I did notice a bit of a noise on start up, when delivery driver drove it off the truck, but wasn't paying much attention.

So I've been out and started it. Sounds like a washing machine on full spin, that someone has left a set of spanners in.

Does quIet down a bit when running, but its noticeable.

I have no clue about these engines, so no idea if tadts, or its a problem.

I'm holding off on ordering a window switch pack and parcel shelf, till I get it looked at.

I've told Little Cookie, tadts, so as not to worry her. For all I know, they all do.

I probably should have lifted the bonnet. She has gone out with her boyfriend and has the keys, back tomorrow, so checking will have to wait.

She is happy. She has wheels and is now mobile. 

Honestly it sounds indifferent to any other example I've heard of those engines. The word piston slap sounds scary but it's a characteristic of many engines and if I thought it was catastrophic rest assured I would have not sold it!

Very surprised to hear about the window that's shit luck, it certainly was working the other day in fact otherwise I would have brought it to your attention

I know it's the joy of old cars but I'm really disappointed it's not working for you 

[RoverFolkUs]

23 minutes ago, SiC said:

Also might be the hydraulic tappets too. When was the oil last changed? Fresh oil might not go amiss. 

About 20 miles ago 😅

[SiC]

It's been said on here before but cars do funny things when they change owners. And VAG windows and door locks love to play up on this era car. Just remind her never ever leave the keys inside the car and shut the door. It might just one day to auto lock itself with the keys inside!

My Fabia mk1 1.4 16v (similar age iirc) engine sounded noisy with some piston slap. Very much TADIS on these lumps.