Audi 100 Diary. MOT Passed 🥳

[Tadhg Tiogar]

On 11/7/2019 at 12:41 PM, bramz7 said:

....it should be a legal requirement that everyone try a 5 cylinder engine once in their life. Or like me, several times more. 

Absolutely. A 5-pot beat is lovely to listen to, even if it's only 2 litres.

I think Rover were working on a 5-pot at one stage, but don't know if they managed to get their test engine running. Was supposed to have gone into the SD1, after testing in a P6.

[Spurious]

On 12/14/2019 at 5:32 PM, Tadhg Tiogar said:

Absolutely. A 5-pot beat is lovely to listen to, even if it's only 2 litres.

I think Rover were working on a 5-pot at one stage, but don't know if they managed to get their test engine running. Was supposed to have gone into the SD1, after testing in a P6.

It really makes a lovely noise. Hopefully it goes better as I'd an unexpected delivery today.  Got a text whilst at work. "Fed Ex delivered a package for you". 

Not having a bogs notion as to what it was I was a little curious to find when I got home. 5 new injectors. The eBay firm was meant to just 1st class post it so I wasn't expecting it till tomorrow at the earliest. However I'm not complaining. 

Genuine Bosch injectors with a 5% eBay discount worked out at about £28 pound per injector. They're £45 on euro shite parts with the usual discount so I'm very happy. 

And they have the Bosch halogram online check thing for genuine-ness. Bonus. 

You can also see how the seals have been changed from Viton I think to deal with E5 fuels better. Apparently if the internet is to be believed. 

Also see how compressed and not round the old o ring is. No wonder they leaked air...

 

[Spurious]

Oh shout out to Parts in Motion in Leeds. I'll certainly be looking at their eBay shop again. 

 

And not a shout out to the idiots on Faceache who tried to sell me 4 used injector out of a 16v GTI Golf for 100 pounds. Talk about VeeDub scene gobshite tax. 

[Tadhg Tiogar]

4 minutes ago, Spurious said:

Oh shout out to Parts in Motion in Leeds. I'll certainly be looking at their eBay shop again. ....

Yes, the CX's replacement water pump (Borg & Beck) came from these fellas. Surprisingly not expensive at about 60 quid compared to the 90-plus other sellers were asking for the same thing.

Here's the Rover 5-cylinder

[Spurious]

6 hours ago, Tadhg Tiogar said:

Yes, the CX's replacement water pump (Borg & Beck) came from these fellas. Surprisingly not expensive at about 60 quid compared to the 90-plus other sellers were asking for the same thing.

Here's the Rover 5-cylinder

That made a good read over a cup of tea. 

[Spurious]

New injectors are in. 

Not too bad.  I left the brass/plastic retainers for the injectors well alone as I'd visions of the plastic bits breaking and falling into the cylinders.   And then me throwing a fit and flinging spanners into next week.

Spent an absolute age cleaning them in situ.  However, they all went in okay.  Cursory test with contact cleaner to test for leaks afterwords showed up a leak in #3 injector, so that got a firm push down and all's well.

 

Also had a quick test of my bodged together injector pressure tester and it seems okay.

• System pressure is 78psi
• Hot control pressure at 58psi.

Maintains pressure when off so that's a good sign the injectors aren't leaking and the accumulator is in good shape.  I think the warm control pressure is a little high; should be 50-55psi I think, but different warm up regs seem to have slightly different control pressure so it actually might be okay.   If it's too high, it'll be running a bit lean as the control pressure reduces fuel supply a bit.   But without a lambada sensor I cant really say if it's running lean tbh. Or without the factory WUR pressures. I could be fiddling with it and it's factory set right perhaps.

[Zelandeth]

So long as it's in the ball park I think you should be okay.  It's a totally analogue system through and through so a bit of wiggle room is fine...if it runs fine now you've sorted the obvious defect I'd not go hunting phantom problems just for the sake of it.

When I set up the base mixture on my K-Jet Saab I did it exactly the same as with a carb.  Turn the mixture adjustment each way until the revs drop then just go for the mid point between the two.

When it went in for the MOT the CO reading was *exactly* what the manual stated to aim for, so it can't have been that flawed an approach!

K-Jet systems are actually a lot more reliable than people give them credit for...90% of the faults I've seen have been air leaks compounded by people who don't know what they're doing then fiddling with it.

[garbaldy]

Do one of you guys want to come and fix mine then as it's been sitting for a while waiting for me to get back on it.

[Spurious]

12 hours ago, Zelandeth said:

So long as it's in the ball park I think you should be okay.  It's a totally analogue system through and through so a bit of wiggle room is fine...if it runs fine now you've sorted the obvious defect I'd not go hunting phantom problems just for the sake of it.

When I set up the base mixture on my K-Jet Saab I did it exactly the same as with a carb.  Turn the mixture adjustment each way until the revs drop then just go for the mid point between the two.

When it went in for the MOT the CO reading was *exactly* what the manual stated to aim for, so it can't have been that flawed an approach!

K-Jet systems are actually a lot more reliable than people give them credit for...90% of the faults I've seen have been air leaks compounded by people who don't know what they're doing then fiddling with it.

No I'm not going hunting for problems now, it's good enough to leave well alone. It's due an MOT test soon and we'll see what the emissions are like and go from there. 

And yes, I've heard the horror stories but I think if you break it down the system is quite simple, totally analog and just mechanical feedback systems. 

Not sure I'm the best person Garbaldy, happy to look but I only know what I know from YouTube and browsing Bosch service manuals.

[Tadhg Tiogar]

17 hours ago, Spurious said:

.... lambada sensor ....

Detected the following issue:

 

[Spurious]

I took it for a proper drove after fitting the new injectors. Christmas and work getting annoyingly in the way. 

Up to the peak district. Too windy for some walking, so a quick coffee and home again.

It's running well. I'm happy. Still a few little niggles to sort but I enjoyed my little drive out today. 

It's a handsome aul bus. 

[Spurious]

Whipped off the timing belt cover just to have a quick look.  Aftermarket Gates belt with a date code of 4th Day of the 25th week of (hopefully) 2015. I think I'm interpreting that right. (4 25 5DS) 

Putting that at about 1500 miles or so since the last belt change at a maximum of 4 years since the belt was fitted, may be much less depending on how long it sat on the shelf for. 

Tension was spot on too. 

Gates recommend a 72 month interval for changing their belts so it'll be a change probably in 2021 at some point. 

 

 

[Spurious]

MOT within the hour.  As luck would have it a tail light is out....

[Spurious]

The MOT tester likes classic VWs and Audi's. 

Hopefully he's nice and fair. 

[Spurious]

So it failed. 

Not by much, a fucked seal on the rear brake caliper. 

There's a few advisories, mainly the shocks and springs on the rear are the originals so they're a bit corroded. 

Small jobs tbh. Could have been worse. 

 

Tester was fair and only did MOTs, no repairs. Realised it was an old motor and it's going to be a little bit crusty in places. 

[BL Bloke]

That's not too bad for a 30 year old car. It looks a lovely old thing. 

[Minimad5]

Spot on.

Good seeing one of these being used.

Do wish my old man never sold his 200 (insert massive sad face)

[Spurious]

59 minutes ago, BL Bloke said:

That's not too bad for a 30 year old car. It looks a lovely old thing. 

No, it's not. 

I inspected the rear discs and pads and I reckon the piston isnt moving freely. There's no lip whatsoever on the discs, practically new.

The caliper is now off, it's not in bad shape, the seal is gone I suspect but it could be a lot worse

The advisory list looks scary but it's just scabby corrosion on the struts and rear beam axle. Nothing heavy or serious. 

The shocks aren't the best, there's no leak but there's quite a bit of corrosion on the body. 

 

 

 

 

[Spurious]

Caliper removal was surprisingly easy. Someone's been in here before, fasteners all came away without too much efforts. 

Unwound the piston, seal looks past it. Piston has some pitting but I'm going to get some fine grit wet/dry and polish it out. Rebuild it with some nice red rubber grease and cross fingers it seals right. 

 

[Spurious]

She's passed! Sorry I forgot to take photos of the calipers being rebuilt. 

The piston polished up okay, the new seal went back on. The the bottom slider probably probably wasn't letting the caliper float properly, it's been freed up and greased with rubber grease. 

It's clear while the brakes are fine now, a rebuild of at least the sliders on the other 3 corners isnt a bad idea. 

[Macscrooge]

Lovely old wagon, and I for one love that blue velour!  I had a 5-pot Volvo so I know what you mean about the interesting engine sounds. There were a couple of these 100s in the next village to me until a few years back. 

[Spurious]

So on the to-do list

Wheels and tyres have been sorted.  Kumho all seasons were dirt cheap on Blackcircles. 

Ignition is running well, 0.60% co is good enough on the emissions (0.5-4% is the limit), so my tweakery on the warm up regulator must have been okay.. Has had general service. Driving quite well and got treated to a bath today

List

• Rust treatment of the beam axle and sills welding when the weather is better
• Preventative work on the other brake calipers
• Perhaps new rear springs/shocks to cover the advisory on the MOT. 
• Have a look at the speedo and see if any of the traces need resoldering to fix the wobbly speedo. 

Realistically the welding is a garage job. And so is the springs/shocks. I don't have the kit (I've seen springs launch themselves out of a compressor) and I'm not arsed doing it myself. The dash and calipers are home jobs. 

 

[Spurious]

So the MOT man wasn't too impressed with my rear shocks. He said he'd thought they would fail due to corrosion... 

I've cleaned them up and to be honest I don't think they're too bad. What does the collective think? Bit of paint surely would have them right. 

I've yet to look at the other side properly but I'm happy to file these under "grand for the moment" 

 

[garbaldy]

They look fine to me arse covering I  would say,  

Like you say give them some treatment And a lick of paint they will look miles better.

 

[Spurious]

And t'other side. Also getting filed under "grand for the moment".  Will get some rustoleum on the shock and grease up the spring. 

 

 

[Split_Pin]

The top part of the front damper casing on my 80 rotted away years ago but I got the same advisory.

A rather broad brush approach and subjective approach by the MOT manual on this one I'd say and looking at yours, they look absolutely fine.

[Spurious]

Rebuilt, this time properly.  Rattle canned with high temp paint (which will chip probs). More importantly new piston and seal. 

[808 Estate]

Awesome wagon.

Had one of these in the 90s as a gig wagon. 2.2 litre with 3 speed slush box. Ideal tool for carting lasers and crew up the M3 to London and enough room in the back for a crafty kip when needed.

[Spurious]

Long overdue a bit of an update here and a few little jobs have been done. 

The brakes have had a good bit of work; they were advisories for the MOT and to be fair the rear discs weren't the best.  So, new discs and pads all round; mix of Mintex/Meyle/Brembo bits.  New pistons and seals on all the calipers courtesy of Autodoc.  Some of the calipers weren't far off needing a rebuild anyway.  Considering a new caliper is between £50-70 each, a rebuild kit and a piston for about £10 a corner seems good value. 

It was a bit of a long drawn out job; you'd look at one thing and since you didn't buy it in the initial batch of parts you were put back a couple of days.  Combine that with the day job and it dragged on for a while getting things right.  I needed to order taps and bolts too for the carrier to the struts/beam axle which again dragged things out.

But they're done now.  Braking is more or less silent.  They're not loosing any fluid and will lock up the front wheels if you give it a bit of welly.  So I think that's a success.  

 

[Spurious]

Also, the front right CV boot has a split; it's a spurious one as it was held on with a cable tie.  It's only a small split so I packed it up with moly grease and another cable tie.  Managed to get a Meyle CV joint on ebay for £25 delivered so that's not so bad.  I dunno if it's just pushed out the excess grease I packed in or is it split/slipped again.  There's a few spatters of grease on the wheelarch so I'll have to do some investigating.  Either way I'll have the spare to fit.  I dunno if I'm going to do this myself; I've not got a puller nor a breaker bar for loosening the hubnut.  I'll have to have a think, I've not done one before so it could be a massive faff.