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Focus misfire ..


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Posted

the heap has a slight stutter when hot , as when its been running for a while

 

just stutters for a moment when pulling away with its 1.6 zetec

 

I hoped the new flexi on the exhaust would of helped but it has not ....

 

done the plugs , cleaned the ICV , checked for codes - none ,

 

checked the leads and I am swapping one over at a time to see if the fault goes ..

 

tickover and general running are fine .

 

any other ideas ?

Posted

they are now

 

I think 2mm used to be the norm , but I have gone to 1mm  , both settings have made no difference  ,,,

 

I an starting to think coil pack now ...  as it gets hot by the engine , and when the engine has been running for a while the battery charges upping the voltage .and hence the spark voltage .. causing a breakdown

 

years ago I had a problem this with a Fiat Strada , which played up when hot , when I put a resister across the coil primary .. it behaved

Posted

Before you spend on a coil check the 3 wire feed to the coil isn’t becoming brittle and causing same symptoms.

Posted

Hopefully you’ll get away with just the coil, occasionally failing leads can goose the coil. If you were local I’ve a good coil and leads you can have.

Posted

put a new coil pack on , and a oil change , and lifted all the wheels and had a check over , clean and spray over ..

 

different car now , sounds new in comparison ...!!!  , no sign of the stutter so far

 

just a exhaust hanger and slightest of movement in the osf front steering track rod end area .... 

Posted

Let me guess is it the centre hangers round the cat that have rusted off?

 

The track rod end doesn’t sound too bad, could be either that or the axial rod inner joint.

Posted

its that last hanger behind the back bumper ... the plug and twist one ... got the part ready ...just need the inclination

 

as for the track rod end , it is so slight I cannot find the source , might split the joint and see if what end of the rod flops ..just need the inclination

 

the nearside steering  is all new thanks that rock that jumped in front of me !

Posted

Glad the coil sorted it!

 

Is it the original Ford exhaust? Mine was in good nick except for the hangers, which were snapping off one by one. Lost patience and had the whole lot replaced.

Posted

looks like a one piece exhaust ... original ....

 

depite all this , on a good run this morning , motorway , main road , traffic .....

 

it stuttered .... and suffered a good cranking when doing a hot start ........

 

but it does run a lot better when going  , pulls away good ,up to  70mph no problems 

 

crank sensor ?

Posted

 

... and suffered a good cranking when doing a hot start ........

 

 

Mine does this if driven then left for about 15 mins, guess it's fuel evaporation. Fine if restarted quickly, or from cold.

 

Any codes, inc pending?

 

What's the mileage?

Posted

I've got a couple of used coil packs here you could have tried before buying one (St.Helens). Mine stutters (sometimes) when accelerating and I've never traced the cause after replacing plugs, leads, coil packs, cleaning ICV, cleaning MAF, using premium fuels... I also replaced the crankcase breather behind the inlet manifold (they perish - was replaced as kept stalling when slowing at lights). Does my head in...

Posted

Fords with the Duratec fitted to Mk3 Mondeos were prone to being hesitant to start once warm. The ‘advised’ way round it once you had turned the engine off was to floor the accelerator once before trying to restart it.

 

I’d definitely check the wiring to the coil. Check the wiring is undamaged and secure in the terminals. Due to the heat and the vibration the wiring suffers fatigue, initially giving intermittent symptoms.

Posted

no codes pending and its done 130K ....

 

I am gunning for the crank sensor now .. just been outside  to way it up , spray on some penetrating oil and leave it to soak overnight ..

 

I had a Clio do a similar thing with its sensor ..

 

 

wires to the coil pack look good ....

Posted

next question , I am trying to find out if this the filler plug for the gearbox , then I can check its got some oil in ?

 

post-21637-0-85646100-1550831115_thumb.jpg

 

 

Posted


I. The manual transmission does not have a dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stand; making sure that the vehicle is level.

2. Except on 2.0 litre models, to gain access to the filler/level plug, it is first necessary to unclip the plastic cover from the gear selector cables at the front of the transmission.

3. On the lower front side of the transmission housing, you will see the filler/level plug, which has a large Allen key fitting. Note it is the plug furthest from the engine; where applicable, do not confuse it with the blanking plug near the bellhousing.

4. Remove all traces of dirt, then unscrew the filler/level plug from the front face of the transmission. Access to the plug is not that easy; use a suitable Allen key or socket, and take care, as the plug will probably be very tight.

5. The oil level must be between 10 mm and 15 mm below the bottom edge of the filler/level plug hole (use a cranked tool such as an Allen key, or a piece of bent wire, to check the level).

6. If necessary, top-up the level with the specified grade of oil . Add the oil in very small amounts, and allow time for the oil level to stabilise before rechecking the level.

7. When the level is correct, clean and refit the filler level plug and tighten it to the specified torque.

8. Refit the plastic cover over the transmission cables.

 

 

Any help?

Posted

Careful with missfires, these have been known to fry the ECUs on petrol Fords, my mate's tidy 2.0 auto Mondy was killed by a rogue missfire

Posted

You need a bent bit of wire to check level. Shouldn’t need topping up though unless shaft seal is leaking.

Posted

I am wondering if the hesitation could be the crank sensor or the speedo sensor playing up when it is hot ..

 

thanks for the bit on the tx oil , I will try that when the sun is up and the driveway is warm !!

Posted

You need a bent bit of wire to check level. Shouldn’t need topping up though unless shaft seal is leaking.

I have a bit of oil around the back of the engine from when the rocker cover was leaking , I think it has found its way every where including all over the gear box ...

 

so if I can make sure the g/box oil is ok ish I will be happy

Posted

Have you checked the vacuum pipes and the ICV?

 

How old are the leads? What are the plugs like? OE plugs are only a tenner, if you can’t get those then NGK are next best.

Posted

just made another investment .. should see the car out ...at least the old ones where all the same colour !

 

£8.70 spent !  for four new ones

 

post-21637-0-60786900-1551107402_thumb.jpg

Posted

I think it might be the leads ......  :-(

 

did it once in 45 miles ...

 

its getting better ,,,,,

 

I have some injector cleaner as well ...  :-)

Posted

I changed my ignition leads (and coil) at 95k as preventative maintenance, no running issues with the car at the time or since *touch wood*.

 

If I can find them (and thats a bastard big if, going by my tip of a garage) do you want to borrow them for testing purposes? I'd want 'em back, like...

Posted

thanks for the offer ,

 

but I have a set of std leads that I can swap in ,

 

apparently a fresh set is only 20 notes ish

 

I did a run to and from work with the ELM based car scanner reading the main sensors on the engine ,

 

and everything seemed ok , no flat lines or hairy signal traces , so I am putting this issue down to HT problems

 

 

or even the old looking tank filter ...  dum dum deeerr   

Posted

I bought a genuine Ford Motorcraft set of leads for £80-odd :?

 

If you haven't done the fuel filter in recent years then do change it. Bit of a bastard to get at when lying on your back in a puddle but well worth the effort.

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