Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[MikeKnight]

Used to use rope around the rocker shaft when pulling these out - it's not a very heavy engine and it'll do it no harm.

 

I imagined that in my head and reflexively squealed in horror.

 

Must weigh about as much as a loaf of bread.

[SiC]

When these engines were worth as much as a loaf of bread, I could see that being a thing if you are being cheap. However they are now worth a bit more and (realistically) is the single part of major monetary value on this car. So I don't think I'll risk it for the sake of 8 quids worth of lifting hooks!

[Mally]

The lifting bar looks good but will lose you height.

I used to have a bar that fit your lifting eyes with collars at both ends, and lift directly on that.

The Revs idea is better than mine, saves cash and height.

[SiC]

Worth removing the crinkle grille to prevent damage?

 

Height isn't an issue as it's only fresh air above. If it doesn't clear the front, I'm sure a bit of manhandling will manage it over.

[Guest Hooli]

Height is an issue when your crane stops going up.... Manhandling it is much more of a pain than you'd think.

[Mally]

Sky hook would sort it.

[Guest Hooli]

Left hand threaded of course.

[SiC]

Sky hook would sort it.

Are now installed.

 

Just need some good clouds to hook onto an engine crane now!

 

Bonnet doesn't shut anymore though. Annoying, as I was thinking of leaving them on - saves me loosing them in the future.

[SiC]

Might remove that carb too before the pull though. Looks like it's in danger of getting caught hanging off there.

 

Also just waiting for some more tape for my label printer so I can label the connections up.

[purplebargeken]

Posh labelling!!! This is autoshite Si, a bit of masking tape and a ball point pen....

[Guest Hooli]

Are now installed.

 

Just need some good clouds to hook onto an engine crane now!

 

Bonnet doesn't shut anymore though. Annoying, as I was thinking of leaving them on - saves me loosing them in the future.

 

 

Looking at where those fit, you're hanging it off the rocker shaft pedestal bolts anyway. I hadn't realised that before,.

[SiC]

Posh labelling!!! This is autoshite Si, a bit of masking tape and a ball point pen....

You haven't seen my handwriting! I want to be able to connect it all back together again.

Looking at where those fit, you're hanging it off the rocker shaft pedestal bolts anyway. I hadn't realised that before,.

They're the same fixings and mounting points you use to extract the heavier b-series out of the MGB too.

[SiC]

Wound the clutch stop all the way to its limit. I could hear stuff moving inside. Maybe the clutch isn't siezed and it's just the clutch hydros that are buggered?

 

I was going to give the car a push to see if the pulley moved. Then I remembered I disconnected the gear linkage and driveshafts.

 

Definitely a lot harder to turn the pulley when that's fully extended. Doesn't matter either way as I'm pulling this engine out. Just will make it a lot easier to get the clutch and flywheel off if it hasn't siezed to the shaft.

 

Also give me a chance to change the clutch if it's heavily worn. Won't be surprised if it's the first time the box and engine has been pulled.

 

The drivers side subframe mount doesn't look too special either.

 

So it's likely I may have to drop the subframe at least a bit to do this properly.

[SiC]

I'm really annoyed that I missed this steering wheel. Much better condition than mine. I left a starting bid but was in a meeting when the auction was ending, so got out sniped.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163103781997

 

Admittedly replacing the steering wheel is pretty low down on the purchase priority list.

[Geep]

Looking at where those fit, you're hanging it off the rocker shaft pedestal bolts anyway. I hadn't realised that before,.

 

We always did it that way. Even had them that way at college on all A series when I was an apprentice. 

 

SIC, you can undo the speedo cable when the engine is raised up a bit, makes it easier. Grill was never an issue but given the rarity now, might be wise to remove and store safely. 

[dozeydustman]

Admittedly replacing the steering wheel is pretty low down on the purchase priority list.

 

 

It's high priority on the "things I don't need just yet but would like to buy anyway" list

[Guest Hooli]

They're the same fixings and mounting points you use to extract the heavier b-series out of the MGB too.

 

 

We always did it that way. Even had them that way at college on all A series when I was an apprentice. 

 

 

I'm not arguing it's wrong guys, I'd just never realised that's where they fitted.

[Geep]

I'm not arguing it's wrong guys, I'd just never realised that's where they fitted.

 

Don't worry, I was just reminiscing days gone by when I was young and fit-ish. It doesn't matter where you bolt them as long as they're done up tight and fitted to an appropriate sized bolt. 

 

Thread brings back memories of the one I had, then the 2200 landcrab and many mates minis. 

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

That car needs both subframes taking out, the car tipping on it's side and repairing that way. Clean up the hydro pipes, strip and overhaul the 'frames and paint it all underneath. 

[Geep]

Get a roll over jig off ebay. They do weld yourself kits (or ready welded) so some practise before you start on the car with thicker metal will serve you well. 

[SiC]

I'm starting to think that getting it stripped right down and turned over isn't so much of a bad idea. Does the glass have to come out on a jig?

 

Alternatively, I may go down to the local garage and ask for a load of tyres. Roll it over onto that for proper 70s style repairs.

 

Probably more my budget to be honest. Not sure I'll have room to have a roll over jig on the drive either.

[vulgalour]

If you're worried about losing bits, just put them in the glovebo-oh. Never mind.

 

It's unlikely the be hydraulics on the clutch. It has a new hose and clutch slave cylinder and has been bled a bajillion times.  We also played with that adjuster to absolutely no effect.  If it's somehow worked free on its own then HAPPY DAYS, but I suspect it's still completely stuck.

[SiC]

Maybe Mike's driving shocked it loose?

 

I kinda expected if that arm moves out, the clutch must be disengaging?? I.e. if it was siezed, then there would be no movement.

 

All speculation really until the engine is out. Just trying to organise buying a crane at the moment. I'm really hoping I'll have it by the end of the week as I have a few days off and have free time during the day till then.

[Kiltox]

Are you going for the SGS crane? Did me proud and I sold it to a shiter for not much less than I paid

[Braddon81]

I'm starting to think that getting it stripped right down and turned over isn't so much of a bad idea. Does the glass have to come out on a jig?.

I was involved with the full resto of one of these in Mg1100 flavour back in the mid nineties. It's imperative to internally fully brace the shell before you even start to take the subframes off or start removing any steel structure, and preferably keep the doors on.The shells on these are terribly prone to distortion once any strength has been taken from them. They sag end to end and my advice would be to start with the rear subframe mounting repair to set a a datum point for the rest of the structure. The sills and the floor repairs can then be measured to that. Braced with on a chassis tilter would be my preferred option. Good luck!

[Mally]

Shouldn't really wind the clutch stop out to release the clutch as you seem to have done?

There's a lot of weight in the clutch springs, it may well strip the threads in the ally end plate.

Stop bolt is exactly that, stops the arm when you have the correct amount of free play. No weight on it normally.

 

I'm well in the minority here, but if it were mine, it wouldn't be for long

[SiC]

 

 

I was involved with the full resto of one of these in Mg1100 flavour back in the mid nineties. It's imperative to internally fully brace the shell before you even start to take the subframes off or start removing any steel structure, and preferably keep the doors on.The shells on these are terribly prone to distortion once any strength has been taken from them. They sag end to end and my advice would be to start with the rear subframe mounting repair to set a a datum point for the rest of the structure. The sills and the floor repairs can then be measured to that. Braced with on a chassis tilter would be my preferred option. Good luck!

Useful info. I guess you're saying that the subframes essentially hold everything straight? If that's the case, I might take the original step of welding up as I go.

My plan roughly (on Vulgs original advice) is to: Driver floor first - this is only the front half. Possibly cut out and replace the subframe mount that side. Fix the floor all the way round back to the inner seal surface. Weld new material onto the membrane to reconstruct it. Cut off the rotten outer sill and weld a new one on. Weld on closing panel. Fix wheel arches.

 

 

Shouldn't really wind the clutch stop out to release the clutch as you seem to have done?

There's a lot of weight in the clutch springs, it may well strip the threads in the ally end plate.

Stop bolt is exactly that, stops the arm when you have the correct amount of free play. No weight on it normally.

 

I'm well in the minority here, but if it were mine, it wouldn't be for long

Well I didn't put too much force on when winding it out and I believe Vulg did similar before - on the advice of someone else. We'll see what's happened once the lump is out and cover is off.

 

Yes this is a pretty big project, but I don't think it's impossible or enormous to get fixed. That's youthful wishful thinking igronance for you.

[SiC]

Plus if I don't fix Humpty Dumpty, it's likely it would be stripped for parts and cubed. So not much to loose if I fail at welding it back together. There are some real grotty areas, but plenty bits actually look alright. Maybe I need to go around with a camera to take pictures of those bits to increase the optimism.

[vulgalour]

I reckon the 2 doors are more rigid than the 4 doors too so the sagging issue shouldn't be as bad.  There's certainly no apparent sag or twist on this one if you go by how well and easily the doors open and close.  You can repair that subframe mount without removing anything other than the rusty bit.  If you're careful, you can cut through the metal, unbolt the bolts, and then use it as a template for a new piece you weld in.  That's how I did the mount on the inner wing the same side.  Nothing moves that way.  You can then remove the subframe afterwards to dress and paint the blind side of the repair if needed.  Getting that driver's floor in is the most important bit of the bodywork I reckon as it's currently the weakest point on the whole car.  Once that's back in, everything else can be rebuilt fairly easily from that point out.

 

If you have fears about the body changing shape then bracing is perfectly reasonable as an approach.  My theory was that the car has been weak in the areas that need repair for so long, bracing wasn't going to make a whole world of difference.  With the floor and the bits it joins to all solid again, you shouldn't need to brace anything, even for doing the outer sills, since everything is tied together.  If you were chopping the whole sills off from inner to outer panels then yes, bracing is incredibly sensible and necessary.  Personally I didn't think that was a sensible approach to the repairs on this car.

 

Had I kept the car, floors, subframe mount, and inner sills were my next job to fix.  With that done I could then go around the repairs inside the car and make sure they were all solid and, when happy with that move on to the outside.  I wasn't going to pull the engine unless I absolutely had to because it worked quite well.  Pulling the engine and pipes in your situation may be beneficial and I'll revise my opinion on dropping subframes and agree leaving them in situ will be sensible until you've done all the welding you can see.  Remove the subframes after you've done the welding and you can catch any bits that might be hiding and any repairs on the subframes themselves.

 

Really, once the welding is done, everything else on this is purely cosmetic work.  As a thing to learn welding and bodywork on, it's perfect. It's not that far gone it can't be saved, but it's bad enough that it will give you experience on simple repairs and more difficult repairs while giving you the confidence to tackle pretty much anything once done.

 

The thing not to do is to try and take the whole thing on at once.  Focus on an area and finish that, then focus on the next area.  The front end repairs were pretty daunting when I looked at them initially, but breaking it down into smaller sections really helped me burn through the jobs at a reasonable pace without losing motivation.  The motivation killer for me on this one wasn't the rust, it was the driving position.  Compared to the stuff I've had to do on the Princess, the repairs on this one were quite easy since most of the shapes are almost Landrover simple.

[Braddon81]

Useful info. I guess you're saying that the subframes essentially hold everything straight? If that's the case, I might take the original step of welding up as I go.

My plan roughly (on Vulgs original advice) is to: Driver floor first - this is only the front half. Possibly cut out and replace the subframe mount that side. Fix the floor all the way round back to the inner seal surface. Weld new material onto the membrane to reconstruct it. Cut off the rotten outer sill and weld a new one on. Weld on closing panel. Fix wheel arches.

I'd say that would be the best approach. The subframes don't hold everything together but if you can get away with sorting the grot without removing them first it will make the task a lot easier and I'd second everything that Vulgalour has said above.

Try and keep the main constitution of the car together and repair the areas stage by stage. The Ado16 shell can be quite unforgiving if you take too much strength out of it all in one go.