Volvo C202 Laplander and lesser members of the Warninglight fleet - L322 IN

[warninglight]

The Laplander is still waiting patiently whilst the ML350 is in dry dock.

It developed a slow coolant leak, 200 miles of driving would ping up the 'top up coolant' message. My trusty pressure tester wasn't working, but some UV dye and a good run down the road showed the fault, a slow drip from the water pump.

Bits duly ordered, pump, belt, tensioners, idlers etc.

Got into the job and someone's put all of this crap in the way of the water pump. I thought longitudinal engines were supposed to be better for access.

Many hidden E10 bolts removed, and I got to this point.

But what's that small hose going into the pump body? Some sort of bypass hose? The new pump doesn't have it, and it doesn't go through the pump casting.

 

I did some digging, and it turns out it's a vacuum line attachment. When the engine is cold, it pulls a vacuum which blocks off the water pump, allowing the engine to warm up a bit quicker, for emissions reasons. I'm stunned at just how shit an idea that is. I've read that it's quite common for a worn pump to allow coolant into the vacuum line, which predictably distributes coolant into the servo, turbo, vac pump, anything with a vac connection!

Seems the Germans were all using them.

https://youtube.com/shorts/d69wrVczUw4?si=hblBhP5PMXplPa0v

I'm going to fit the normal pump and blank off the vac line. I can't see how that could throw a fault code but fingers crossed!

So far it's not proving to be the easier to live with alternative to a Disco that I'd hoped.

Also ordered a pair of air intake hoses, as they're essentially made of cloth loom tape. They fall to bits, effectively moving the air intake points from the top of the grille (reasonable) to either side of the engine, about half way down (scary, given the flooded roads we've had lately). Some very questionable engineering choices on what was one of Merc's more expensive models...

 

[warninglight]

Laplander update due, but:

ONE IN

I mentioned this in the low cost big liability thread. Had my Disco 4 in for MOT last week and this sad looking L322 was parked outside. I enquired, left my number with the garage owner, and the owner phoned me a few days later.

It's one of the last L322s, a 4.4 TDV8 Westminster with 125k on it.

 

Dragged into the garage with high pressure fuel pump failure a couple of weeks back. They fitted a used HPFP and it won't start. At this point the owner who has had it for 10 years decided it was time for a change, so we did a deal.

As usual it has the rusty upper tailgate, some bubbles showing on the rear arches, and has some overspray/lacquer peel on the bonnet from some previous paint on the wing.

No unusual codes stored for the engine module, battery is showing 12.2V, but when I hit START it makes a clunk, and the electrics all momentarily turn off. If there's swarf in an injector there may be a bore full of diesel, but I noticed the positive terminal was loose on the battery, so will check, clean and tighten all of those first and see where we get to.

The injectors won't be the simplest to access! The rear pair supposedly need the engine to be lowered a bit, too. Eek.

[loserone]

Winner.

[Schaefft]

Godspeed. If anything it will make a good breaker! I might even need a few bits!

[vaughant]

On 13/01/2026 at 13:01, warninglight said:

The Laplander is still waiting patiently whilst the ML350 is in dry dock.

It developed a slow coolant leak, 200 miles of driving would ping up the 'top up coolant' message. My trusty pressure tester wasn't working, but some UV dye and a good run down the road showed the fault, a slow drip from the water pump.

Bits duly ordered, pump, belt, tensioners, idlers etc.

Got into the job and someone's put all of this crap in the way of the water pump. I thought longitudinal engines were supposed to be better for access.

Many hidden E10 bolts removed, and I got to this point.

But what's that small hose going into the pump body? Some sort of bypass hose? The new pump doesn't have it, and it doesn't go through the pump casting.

 

I did some digging, and it turns out it's a vacuum line attachment. When the engine is cold, it pulls a vacuum which blocks off the water pump, allowing the engine to warm up a bit quicker, for emissions reasons. I'm stunned at just how shit an idea that is. I've read that it's quite common for a worn pump to allow coolant into the vacuum line, which predictably distributes coolant into the servo, turbo, vac pump, anything with a vac connection!

Seems the Germans were all using them.

https://youtube.com/shorts/d69wrVczUw4?si=hblBhP5PMXplPa0v

I'm going to fit the normal pump and blank off the vac line. I can't see how that could throw a fault code but fingers crossed!

So far it's not proving to be the easier to live with alternative to a Disco that I'd hoped.

Also ordered a pair of air intake hoses, as they're essentially made of cloth loom tape. They fall to bits, effectively moving the air intake points from the top of the grille (reasonable) to either side of the engine, about half way down (scary, given the flooded roads we've had lately). Some very questionable engineering choices on what was one of Merc's more expensive models...

 

Ze germanzzzz over complicating things?

Are you sure 🤭🤭🤭🤭.

L322 looks the absolute bollox as well, love those 😍😍

[NorthernMonkey]

In my experience, 12.2 is nowhere near enough to facilitate a start.

My old 3.6 wouldn’t entertain anything less than 12.4-12.5 to get going.

[Schaefft]

(diesel) L322 appear to be extremely picky about battery voltage. More than any other car I ever owned.

[warninglight]

27 minutes ago, NorthernMonkey said:

In my experience, 12.2 is nowhere near enough to facilitate a start.

My old 3.6 wouldn’t entertain anything less than 12.4-12.5 to get going.

Handy to know, I'll try it off the brand new battery I have for the Laplander.

Admittedly that battery pulled the Range Rover onto the trailer and I'm not sure I've felt that 13500lb winch sound like it was straining before today!

[warninglight]

Bonnet service position for the win.

Confirmed solid 'clunk' when hitting the start button, but no cranking.

These seemingly are known for dead starter motors and I expect after the fuel pump work the garage will have been spinning it over plenty.

First things first though I removed the 800CCA battery and I have a brand new 900CCA battery on charge ready to try. Checked the mega fuses as well as they're seemingly another common issue, all test OK for continuity. 2 Ohms across the main 400A fuse that supplies the starter may be a bit high? Will give it a clean up just in case.

Looks like getting to the crank pulley to turn it is easier from below so if this doesn't get it spinning, may have to evict Laplander for 4 poster and get this on there.

 

[warninglight]

Laplander battery on and we have good cranking speed but no firing.

Hoped my little icarsoft could show actual rail pressure but not sure how useful it's being.

Possibly the new (used) HPFP has an issue, perhaps coding/electronic, or as originally expected the HP pipes and injectors have bits of old injector pump in them.

Before cranking

During cranking

[Gaffer]

In tank pump working and delivering fuel to the HP pump?

[warninglight]

It's getting some, whether it's at a high enough pressure is another question.

The garage did some testing involving pulling a fuel line off at the cooler under the bonnet and there's now a pool of diesel sitting on top of that, so it is pumping.

I have the old HPFP which is indeed full of swarf, so I'm thinking it's worth looking downstream of the HPFP next, get the injectors out and tested. 

I'll see if I can do a leakoff test on them and spot any which may be misbehaving.

[Zelandeth]

5 minutes ago, warninglight said:

It's getting some, whether it's at a high enough pressure is another question.

The garage did some testing involving pulling a fuel line off at the cooler under the bonnet and there's now a pool of diesel sitting on top of that, so it is pumping.

I have the old HPFP which is indeed full of swarf, so I'm thinking it's worth looking downstream of the HPFP next, get the injectors out and tested. 

I'll see if I can do a leakoff test on them and spot any which may be misbehaving.

This isn't like a VAG product of the same era where once the pump goes basically the entire fuel system from the tank to the injectors and every bit of pipe between them is basically scrap due to contamination is it?

[warninglight]

Very possibly! Same with any common rail setup.

Injectors and high pressure pipes off is likely the next step.

[Gaffer]

Ooof yes if it’s full of swarf it’ll be injectors, fuel rails, all the pipes flushed, possibly fuel cooler etc. Have a look in the tank bet it’s like a glitter party. No doubt misfuelled just once in its life and from then on it’s a case of when not if.

[NorthernMonkey]

Unfortunately, it’s probably contaminated the new pump now so that’s effectively knackered too.

If it was me, I’d be looking at doing a compression test first and foremost to check the condition of the bores etc then, assuming the overall condition of the car warrants it, removing, cleaning and replacing where necessary the entire fuel system. The tank will be ok with a thorough steam clean etc but most of the rest will need replacing.

The alternative, assuming the compression figures are ok, is to pull the engine and sell it as a bare unit. There’s good demand for the 4.4s as they are the same unit in the next generation RRs and the rest of the car should warrant decent returns from people wanting to facelift their older 322s.

[warninglight]

Ahh that's more involved than I was hoping! 

First step to get a look in the tank then? 

Compression test needs all 8 injectors out anyway, I guess? Never done one on a diesel before, assume they use injector holes rather than glow plug holes?

Apart from the rusty tailgate and that overspray on the wing it's a lovely thing, interior is immaculate. It would be a shame to break it but I can see how it could go that way!

If the tank is free of glitter, would it be HPFP, injectors, filter and cooler replacement, and a thorough flush of everything else? 

[NorthernMonkey]

You can check compression through either…easier to use the glow plug adapters though.

There’s no reason to suspect an issue with the cylinders and valve train but if you’re going to be spending on new components, then it’s good practice to make sure everything else is ok first.

First thing is to pull the fuel filter and look for swarf, then remove the in tank lpfp and have a good look in there too.

At the end of the day, it’s going to need at least another pump, 8 injectors, common rail and all the high pressure plumbing at the very least if there’s visible swarf anywhere at all in the system. Don’t forget the pressure sensors on the rail too…basically, everything that comes into contact with the fuel.

After you’ve replaced that lot, it’s not worth the risk in my opinion to not replace the lines and the tank as a safety precaution given the relatively low cost of those bits.

[warninglight]

Popped outside during lunch and pulled the in tank pump. Definitely a bit of swarf lying in the bottom so will weigh up my options here. 

A contact in Cumbria has one of these in with bottom end issues which may donate a fuel system. 

If anyone has the burning desire to fix this themselves I may sell (and deliver) as-is. Get it running, paint or replace the upper tailgate (and one side of the bonnet which has lacquer peel) and refurb the wheels and you would have a really nice car.

Otherwise I'll probably sort it myself, by June I'll be out of work so I'll have time, and there's profit in this in running condition.

 

[warninglight]

Next step on the 322 has to be to get it on the ramp, so I can drop the tank, and support the engine from below to allow access to injector 8.

Problem with that is, that I deliberately put the Laplander on the ramp a few weeks back to prevent me buying any more chod, ensuring that I make progress with that. 

So it was time to heave it out, drop the L322 onto the ramp, raise it up and pop the Laplander back in (partially) underneath. I can push it out when I need access to the ramp, and winch it back in.

Deal has now been done on the Disco 4 which heads off next week, but used it as a shunter, as the ML350 lacks a low range, which is very handy for precision movement of a 3.5 tonne trailer!

Underneath it doesn't look too bad, it's had some undersealing on the subframes in the past which is good news. 

The hunt is now on for a reasonably priced high pressure setup. Extract Engineering in Carlisle will test the injectors but can't rebuild these Bosch piezo ones, and it seems very likely they'll fail any test. Before I spend anything I'll remove the system, see what can be flushed and make a shopping list.