Saab 93 the second - Auspuff

[dozeydustman]

FUGGIN' GET IN THERE!

Some jobs to do for next year, so looks like new track rods and a rear suspension for next year. Well chuffed!

[The Moog]

well done chap! Worth the battles 

[dozeydustman]

16 minutes ago, snagglepuss said:

well done chap! Worth the battles 

Indeed it was.

The garage was pretty impressed with my work as I'd asked them just to check the torques on all the fittings I had replaced before they sent it round for the test. Not blowing my own trumpet.

It's funny how different garages pick up different things. The NS suspension arm is barely noticeable by all accounts so may last the year out, the rest can be sorted as and when.

I'm now giving it a blez up to Kent for a couple of days. Then next Sunday the Corolla's balls get replaced, so another thread on some genuine shite to update!

[dozeydustman]

Result of blat to Kent. Bit flat because bad connection to swirl flap motor (I know this is broken wire) so power is a bit hit and miss.

Just a smidge under 60mpg is best i’ve ever had coming up to kent. Happeh

[Inspector Morose]

Please tell me yours is a manual. If it isn’t, I've got more issues to fix.

[Saabnut]

Got to be a manual, autos do approx 10mpg less in my experience!

[Inspector Morose]

Ah must be doing something right then as I'm getting about 52.

[dozeydustman]

Yep FPB7 it’s a Spanish waiter. I don’t particularly like autos

[dozeydustman]

With a year's ticket and a 200 mile shakedown over the last couple of days, time for a new list of jobs to do on this car over the next year.

1. Full service including alternator belt, cam belt and water pump.
2. Replace bottom engine pulley as I think the rubber damper in the middle of it is getting a bit knackered after 205 and it seems to vibrate a little.
3. Sort our O/S wing repeater - the lens is cracked and mouldy, and the bulb holder is a bit grotty and has a iffy connection somewhere
4. Check swirl flap motor connector and wiring, I think it has a broken wire or a poor connection; failing that reinstate old swirl flap motor.
5. Replace both rear tyres - I may put the 2 y/o fronts on the back as they're about 3-4mm tread.
6. Replace leaking headlamp washer pump
7. Replace rear wiper blade
8. Clear any codes that may have picked up
9. Replace rear number plate bulbs (I have 2x 5w capless, but I'm looking at replacing with LED)
10. Keep an eye on the rear suspension bushes and the steering inner joints as advised at MoT
11. Replace any missing trims.
12. Replace O/S/F front hub (that will be a mission as the driveshaft splines are still seized/rusted into it)

I'm hoping now with all the work I've done the car will be on the road for a few more years yet, if I can get her to 250k in my ownership I'll be chuffed. Going to take a few days away from car tinkering, plus the Corolla's MoT is higher priority now.

[dozeydustman]

Mrs_d used the Saab this evening to go to her new evening job.

Got a phone call at 9:15ish from her telling me the car conked out. I knew it was low(ish) on fuel, about half a gallon left in the tank but she promised to put some diesel in on the way home. Went to petrol station with jerry can. Found mrs_d, and the Saab, and a puddle of diesel on the floor.

Cylinder No.3 has spat out its leak off t-piece again. Bodged it to get home but I'll have to assess the damage (if any) tomorrow.

I had the Corolla destined for some garage action tomorrow. Pah.

[SiC]

Did you put a new leak off kit on? If so, wondering if the engine cover maybe is knocking it somehow?

I assume all the mounts are still on it? The cover on the one I had was on+off so many times with the car breaking, I gave up putting it back on! A bit noiser (because its there for acoustic reasons too) but not excessive. 

[dozeydustman]

New leak off connectors and hoses, I think I still have a good T-shaped one from the old set. It had actually come out of the injector, so wondering if the O-ring or R-clip are wanky.

cover has its 4 rubber mounts so i’ll check make sure everything is in place. On Tacho break at work so won’t know until I get home and have a look

[stuboy]

keep us updated

[dozeydustman]

Put a new O-ring seal on the loose T-piece, seems to be a better fit and no leaks etc.

Something I'll have to keep an eye on though. I can't find the old ones so looks like I need to buy a few spares.

[dozeydustman]

A smoll drive around yesterday evening and the diesel leak from No3 injector leak off system has returned. It's only a drip as opposed to pissing everywhere but nevertheless I don't want my car dripping fuel everywhere, especially as I have seen the mess diesel spills, unexpected rain or damp and motorcycles make when combined. It appears to be coming from where the hose and t-piece join, so I'm hoping it's just the hose being less than perfect as opposed to another t-piece being needed. I have spare hose but need to order more t-pieces, so I may get a set of the brass ones I have seen on the Bay of E, which means I can also jubilee clip the leak off hoses to them as opposed to interference fit with the plastic ones.

Can't do much with it today as I'm off to see my dad for his birthday!

[dozeydustman]

I replaced the small piece of hose on injector number 3 and the leak went.

After a short drive, injector number 2's leak off popped out. Exactly the same issue as last Thursday - the R-clip has slipped and the T-connector jumped out. I noticed that Injector No 4's clip wasn't where is should be.

As posted in Ask a shiter? have I got crap R-clips or is something more serious the issue?

[SiC]

What about creative use of zip ties to hold the T connectors down? Does sound like the r-clips are a bit pants if they're coming off. Tried squidging them to close them up a bit and make a tighter fit?

[dozeydustman]

I think it's a mix of poor quality R-clips and t connectors, despite them being GM branded parts. Well, they came in GM packaging. I'm hoping where I've changed all 4 o-rings and squeezed the clips a little they are holding today. Fitter at work owes me a favour so he's going to peek under the lid tomorrow see if I've done anything wrong as he knows these engines pretty good as we have a couple Fiat vans with the 8v version of the engine.

[dozeydustman]

I'm hoping I've sorted out the injector leak off problems on this old crate now. After a new set of retaining clips proved to be as much use as a chocolate teapot, I bought another set, this time from a Saab Specialist on eBay for £4 posted.

Spot the difference. The new ones are a much better fit, but No 3 injector's leak off was still dribbling. This is the one I'd replaced the o-ring on a week ago.

Luckily I had managed to not throw out the old leak off connectors so I just whacked these back in with new o-rings from a jumbo pack I got from Lidl last summer (last 2) and they are snug, don't rattle about and no moar leeks by the looks of it. I am still tempted to get a set of metal connectors. Hopefully next month water pump, cam belt and alternator belt. Which I'm sure will be fun.

[SiC]

It's surprising that your injector 3 harness is original. I'd thought most have had that connector replaced by now. 

[dozeydustman]

The hoses between the central T-piece and the connections on 3 & 4 are the replacement parts that, despite being GM 'genuine' parts, are utter shit (lower 2 injectors). I swapped the replacement hoses for 1 & 2 for the good originals that were in the garage in an old margarine tub.

[SiC]

No sorry I meant the electrical connector!

[dozeydustman]

3 hours ago, SiC said:

No sorry I meant the electrical connector!

Yep they're original as far as I am aware. One has a dicky lock tab so cable ties may be needed soon.

[dozeydustman]

On 5/22/2019 at 3:57 PM, dozeydustman said:

With a year's ticket and a 200 mile shakedown over the last couple of days, time for a new list of jobs to do on this car over the next year.

1. Full service including alternator belt, cam belt and water pump.
2. Replace bottom engine pulley as I think the rubber damper in the middle of it is getting a bit knackered after 205 and it seems to vibrate a little.
3. Sort our O/S wing repeater - the lens is cracked and mouldy, and the bulb holder is a bit grotty and has a iffy connection somewhere
4. Check swirl flap motor connector and wiring, I think it has a broken wire or a poor connection; failing that reinstate old swirl flap motor. ✔︎
5. Replace both rear tyres - I may put the 2 y/o fronts on the back as they're about 3-4mm tread.
6. Replace leaking headlamp washer pump
7. Replace rear wiper blade
8. Clear any codes that may have picked up ✔︎
9. Replace rear number plate bulbs (I have 2x 5w capless, but I'm looking at replacing with LED)
10. Keep an eye on the rear suspension bushes and the steering inner joints as advised at MoT
11. Replace any missing trims.
12. Replace O/S/F front hub (that will be a mission as the driveshaft splines are still seized/rusted into it)
13. Force a Regen

I'm hoping now with all the work I've done the car will be on the road for a few more years yet, if I can get her to 250k in my ownership I'll be chuffed. Going to take a few days away from car tinkering, plus the Corolla's MoT is higher priority now.

 

I have managed to get my flaps flapping at last, but we now have a new issue.

EML came on today on way home, no limp mode. Popped round to a work colleague who has a code reader that apparently only works on Fords and Peugeots, but not his Nissan. Worth a try.

We have P1901 which is something to do with the DPF - could be a knackered sensor, broken wire or something similar. Wondering if the middle box on the system is clogged a bit as the one directly under the turbo is new(ish) and Possibly why the Flexi failed on my old exhaust. Need to study the book of lies and see how the exhaust system is configured on this car.

Might also see if I can remove this middle box and steam clean it internally at work if it is that which is clogged. It's probably more important that I get a water pump and an alternator belt and do those soon.

[Parky]

Cataclean and a blast might do it, or some equivalent dpf snake oil.  I think Wynn’s do one but no idea if it’s any good

[dozeydustman]

7 minutes ago, Parky said:

Cataclean and a blast might do it, or some equivalent dpf snake oil.  I think Wynn’s do one but no idea if it’s any good

I got some Seafoam additive I've been meaning to pop in the tank. It's the 'all rounder' for oil and fuel. Meant to put some pre-mot in the corolla but seeing as that runs as sweet as a nut emissions wise, I may save it for this oil burning beauty!

 

Last time I popped into Chalmers in Gravesend before the car got MoT'd, I got something they had on a promo from the states. Put the can in and I've never seen so much crap come out of a diesel (was around November last year). I was driving home to Sussex after I popped this stuff in before I left in the evening - I remember it did a pretty fierce regeneration as glowing smuts came out the tailpipe when I pulled over thinking the car was on fire! Shame I can't remember what it was.

[Parky]

It’s got some good results on YouTube, that’s for sure 

[dozeydustman]

It would appear I need a new EGR or at least give the one installed a real thorough cleanout again. There's no 'whoosh' on acceleration and turbo is now lagging a bit. I seem to remember the last time I needed an EGR the car behaved like this. What is more important though

The DPF does regenerate so I doubt it's blocked, I remember when putting the exhaust mid-section on the honeycomb was black but there were not blocked cells in the mesh. And the last regen the car did had nice smuts coming out the exhaust.

I need to get a water pump and alternator belt for this soon, possibly an alternator belt tensioner; I've still got Saabnut's cam timing tool and feel a bit guilty that I've not used it yet or sent it back.

This morning on a quick run to town the suspension has made a knocking noise from the offside. I'm hoping it's just some of the siezed/rusted together bits I couldn't remove have freed and just need torquing up again.

[stonedagain]

Have you checked the boost sensor? If it's comes up, it can give similar symptoms as a coked up egr valve.

[dozeydustman]

2 hours ago, stonedagain said:

Have you checked the boost sensor? If it's comes up, it can give similar symptoms as a coked up egr valve.

I have all that to investigate. More important is the cam belt and water pump for the time being. I was told it was changed last year. When I had the manifold off it was quite obvious it was an oldish belt. We're not due to go massive amount of miles in it in the next few month and I will probably start using my bike for work soon.

Meanwhile I've had a look at the Air con. Bridging the HT side of the relay socket makes the interior nice and cold. I get a 12v feed from the dash, but it's the connection to ground that is lost, but we have continuity between the LT ground and the battery, so I have no idea why the relay won't energise. Taking it off the car and putting 12v through it and it clicks, so this isn't the fault. What I may do is just get a couple of spade terminals from an shop and bridge the HT side permanently. I can't go another summer with a boiling hot car! I have bullets, I have female spades and I have eyes, but no male spades!

I may take the under bonnet fuse box out and run a separate earth from the LT side of the relay to a good clean earth, as it may be a break in the wire somewhere. The pump isn't siezed or noisy though, which is a good thing.