AS Communal MK4&5 Mondeo Thread

[Cookiesouwest]

15 minutes ago, sierraman said:

Possible boost hose come off or the boost solenoid crapped out. 

Does that knacker cruise control?

[sierraman]

3 minutes ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Does that knacker cruise control?

Not sure. Either way, it worked when it went in so it’s up to them to put right. Chances are they’ve not put it back together right, easily done, if they’re putting it right leave them to it. 

[wuvvum]

I know it's not a Mondeo but on my Scénic any engine-related fault code will knock out the cruise control and speed limiter.

[billy_bunter]

On 10/23/2021 at 12:44 PM, billy_bunter said:

Just off to plug in the laptop and then unplug the battery in the vain hope that it resets and the problem goes away (yup! I just saw a flying pig)

Car is a 2.0 TDCI 2011 tit spec

The problem:

Doors solonoids activate to lock when the close button is pressed on the fob. The system then nearly instantly opens all locks. I assume that there is a sensor problem somewhere. Info screen says front doors and tailgate are open when sat inside with all of them physically shut.  Battery seems strong as the car starts on the button.

Any gems of wisdom from the hive mind?

.

Well , that degenerated fast. Checked fuses and relays were OK. Left battery off for 3 hours. NO joy. Booked it into local reputable auto electrician. They just phoned back to say they think its the Body Control Module and they cannot reset it with their extensive kit. Book it into Ford and go from there was their reccomendation.

BUGGER I said!

Off to Ford we go. Which kidney will they want for a new BCM?

 

Edited October 27, 2021 by billy_bunter
added extensive

[Arfur Foxache]

1 hour ago, billy_bunter said:

Well , that degenerated fast. Checked fuses and relays were OK. Left battery off for 3 hours. NO joy. Booked it into local reputable auto electrician. They just phoned back to say they think its the Body Control Module and they cannot reset it with their extensive kit. Book it into Ford and go from there was their reccomendation.

BUGGER I said!

Off to Ford we go. Which kidney will they want for a new BCM?

 

I once lost all power to both right hand doors in my 2009 estate - central locking, windows and mirrors all stopped working. 

Tried a used BCM but no luck so bit the bullet and put into main Ford dealer for investigation. Had a new BCM at cost of around £450 fitted but that was probably 2017. 

[billy_bunter]

Considering how much I have spent on it in 5 years £450  would not be too bad. Still hurt though.

Booked it into a dealership for next Thursday!

[sierraman]

Before you do that have you had the BCM out to check for corrosion or damp? Not unknown. You can use a used BCM but it needs programming to the car. 

Also do you have a tow bar? A failing trailer module causes random shit like this. 

[warren t claim]

On 10/27/2021 at 1:19 PM, billy_bunter said:

Well , that degenerated fast. Checked fuses and relays were OK. Left battery off for 3 hours. NO joy. Booked it into local reputable auto electrician. They just phoned back to say they think its the Body Control Module and they cannot reset it with their extensive kit. Book it into Ford and go from there was their reccomendation.

BUGGER I said!

Off to Ford we go. Which kidney will they want for a new BCM?

 

I had a specialist drive 50 miles to plug in and reset my BCM. He said that most of the cost was for his travel time. The job took less than five mins.

[Cord Fourteener]

I think the Hatchback is not regenerating because it has the eml on a lot, thus preventing regen.

Latest eml was boost control and vane actuator but when I went back to get the codes to write here Forscan decided it can't actually read the codes and so the eml light is on but I can't get the codes or do anything with them. 

That's not a bad thing, is it? I take it that it means its probably just going to get spontaneously better?

I tried looking at the live dpf pressure differential on the estate, which is working flawlessly and the cursed hatchback which is trying its best to piss me off and succeeding and the pressure  differential seems to be very similar. 

So I'm thinking we may have sticky veins or boost control solenoid starting to let go. 

[junkyarddog]

https://www.avontuning.co.uk/blog/ford-mondeo-20-tdci-dpf-problems-dpf-removal-is-the-answer

[Cord Fourteener]

11 hours ago, junkyarddog said:

https://www.avontuning.co.uk/blog/ford-mondeo-20-tdci-dpf-problems-dpf-removal-is-the-answer

It's the answer if you don't mind driving a car that's not legal on UK roads.

[sierraman]

Have you checked the piss flaps under the grille behind the bumper? 

[wuvvum]

Could well be the solenoid - the car was throwing up warnings about boost control when I first bought it (I had in my head that it was the wastegate actuator but could be wrong on that - that was in pre-Forscan days so I could only get a generic code).  It stopped doing it after a while but may have come back now it's being used a lot more regularly.  Solenoid seems to be a more common issue than the vanes sticking.

[junkyarddog]

9 hours ago, Cord Fourteener said:

It's the answer if you don't mind driving a car that's not legal on UK roads.

Really they are only cheat devices for the manufacturers.

If mine was pissing me about like your one is,it would be mapped out.

[Cord Fourteener]

12 hours ago, sierraman said:

Have you checked the piss flaps under the grille behind the bumper? 

The what, now?

[Cord Fourteener]

11 hours ago, wuvvum said:

Could well be the solenoid - the car was throwing up warnings about boost control when I first bought it (I had in my head that it was the wastegate actuator but could be wrong on that - that was in pre-Forscan days so I could only get a generic code).  It stopped doing it after a while but may have come back now it's being used a lot more regularly.  Solenoid seems to be a more common issue than the vanes sticking.

Yes it could well be, I've had a few various boost control codes.

[sierraman]

8 hours ago, Cord Fourteener said:

The what, now?

Radiator blinds. If they’re jammed it can cause various problems. Most of the time the blinds are smashed out and the motor just operates nothing so it doesn’t flag a fault up, it only does if it’s snagged or jammed up. If it runs freely it should be fine.

[Cord Fourteener]

24 minutes ago, sierraman said:

Radiator blinds. If they’re jammed it can cause various problems. Most of the time the blinds are smashed out and the motor just operates nothing so it doesn’t flag a fault up, it only does if it’s snagged or jammed up. If it runs freely it should be fine.

So in her infinite wisdom* she decided to attempt to park on a kerb that was far too big, came home with a ruined tyre wall and subsequent flat tyre but, more relevantly, the small plastic undertray right at the front which is attached to the bumper which covers the bottom of the intercoolers/radiators came home in bits in the boot. 

Is this anywhere near the radiator flaps?

[sierraman]

10 minutes ago, Cord Fourteener said:

So in her infinite wisdom* she decided to attempt to park on a kerb that was far too big, came home with a ruined tyre wall and subsequent flat tyre but, more relevantly, the small plastic undertray right at the front which is attached to the bumper which covers the bottom of the intercoolers/radiators came home in bits in the boot. 

Is this anywhere near the radiator flaps?

The intercooler plastic hose runs directly under the sump. The flaps are up front behind lower grill

[Cord Fourteener]

22 minutes ago, sierraman said:

The intercooler plastic hose runs directly under the sump. The flaps are up front behind lower grill

OK, it's definitely worth making sure those are not plastic splinters then!

[sierraman]

13 minutes ago, Cord Fourteener said:

OK, it's definitely worth making sure those are not plastic splinters then!

Intercooler bolts on with a couple of 10mm bolts. It’s a solid plastic thing but it won’t take a knock off a kerb etc. Sort of runs in a U shape across from the intercooler under the engine to the turbo at the back. 

[junkyarddog]

The earlier mk4 mondeo doesn't have the radiator shutter flaps.

The Mk4.5 does,and of course the mk5.

When they fail on the models that have them the cooling fans run continuously. 

[grogee]

Interloper here with Focus 2.0 TDCi. What do I have to look forward to in terms of engine issues (my PowerShit issues are documented in a separate thread).

I had a MK3 Mondeo 2.0 dizzle a while ago and it was reasonably well behaved but I did service the living daylights out of it. In fact the only thing I can remember was noisy aux belt caused by shagged crank pulley. Do the newer ones do this?

I'm assuming I have lots of DPF fun to look forward to. My route to work can involve a 20min stretch of motorway so I'm thinking if I do that once a week it might get the hint and do a regen.

 

[billy_bunter]

Took the car to Ford today and they cannot reset the BCM. So the car still thinks all doors, bonnet and tailgate are open all the time. Looks like I need a new BCM (£650 inc VAT) for the car and someone who knows their way around forscan to program it in.

[warren t claim]

31 minutes ago, billy_bunter said:

Took the car to Ford today and they cannot reset the BCM. So the car still thinks all doors, bonnet and tailgate are open all the time. Looks like I need a new BCM (£650 inc VAT) for the car and someone who knows their way around forscan to program it in.

Maybe they didn't try? 

[Cord Fourteener]

So I don't think there's anything wrong with the dpf and it's regen bits and bobs, and the radiator flaps look OK. I think its the boost control solenoid that's starting to very slowly loose the plot. Its mostly fine but very occasionally it will cause an error or errors that will turn the light on. 

I'm no expert but from what I understand if the turbo vanes and the boost control are popping codes is usually the boost control solenoid. 

[Cookiesouwest]

1 hour ago, Cord Fourteener said:

So I don't think there's anything wrong with the dpf and it's regen bits and bobs, and the radiator flaps look OK. I think its the boost control solenoid that's starting to very slowly loose the plot. Its mostly fine but very occasionally it will cause an error or errors that will turn the light on. 

I'm no expert but from what I understand if the turbo vanes and the boost control are popping codes is usually the boost control solenoid. 

Is replacing the solenoid an easy ish job?

[Dave_Q]

Check all the hoses first, generally a solenoid is either working or not.

If it was completely dead you would probably be in limp mode permanently.

If one or more vac hoses is leaking it could work some of the time but not others.

It could also be related to the failures to regen as I'm sure the turbo will be used to increase exhaust temperature to make it regen.

[wuvvum]

5 hours ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Is replacing the solenoid an easy ish job?

Yep.  It's on top of the engine, held on by two bolts.

[Cord Fourteener]

6 hours ago, Dave_Q said:

Check all the hoses first, generally a solenoid is either working or not.

If it was completely dead you would probably be in limp mode permanently.

If one or more vac hoses is leaking it could work some of the time but not others.

It could also be related to the failures to regen as I'm sure the turbo will be used to increase exhaust temperature to make it regen.

The garage did a vacuum test and replaced a vacuum hose already, not sure if they might have missed one or another might be starting to get worse.