AS Communal MK4&5 Mondeo Thread

[warren t claim]

Surely a used cluster from the scrappy can't be more than £25?

[sierraman]

36 minutes ago, warren t claim said:

Surely a used cluster from the scrappy can't be more than £25?

You can’t fit a used cluster without programming it, it’s had the existing cluster rebuilt. I’ve spoke to an auto electrician guy today who is highly recommended, he’s booked up for 10 days but I’m in no rush. Going to just bite the bullet and get whatever needs doing to the electrics to get it working again. My gut instinct is that it’s an issue with the CANBUS wiring or the GEM module. He seemed fairly confident he’d get to the bottom of it. Who knows!!!

[Out Run]

21 minutes ago, sierraman said:

You can’t fit a used cluster without programming it, it’s had the existing cluster rebuilt. I’ve spoke to an auto electrician guy today who is highly recommended, he’s booked up for 10 days but I’m in no rush. Going to just bite the bullet and get whatever needs doing to the electrics to get it working again. My gut instinct is that it’s an issue with the CANBUS wiring or the GEM module. He seemed fairly confident he’d get to the bottom of it. Who knows!!!

What programming does it need?

I know when for instance, people upgrade to a Convers+ unit - mileage aside- it's just plug and play.

I would expect the other style cluster, to be more of the same.

[sierraman]

30 minutes ago, Out Run said:

What programming does it need?

I know when for instance, people upgrade to a Convers+ unit - mileage aside- it's just plug and play.

I would expect the other style cluster, to be more of the same.

I get different answers all the time on it. Mileage isn’t an issue as it’s a 12 year old car, whether it’s done 100,000 or 1,000,000 miles is academic by this point. Hopefully the sparky will get to the bottom. I’m fine with engines and all that but sometimes for a strange issue I’ve come to realise it’s worth the cost potentially of a specialist to accurately diagnose a problem than bitting and batting randomly replacing components 

[Out Run]

1 hour ago, sierraman said:

I get different answers all the time on it. Mileage isn’t an issue as it’s a 12 year old car, whether it’s done 100,000 or 1,000,000 miles is academic by this point. Hopefully the sparky will get to the bottom. I’m fine with engines and all that but sometimes for a strange issue I’ve come to realise it’s worth the cost potentially of a specialist to accurately diagnose a problem than bitting and batting randomly replacing components 

Fair enough.

Any old Mondeo's dash clocks should plug straight in, no bother.

[sierraman]

Might have made progress with this. Finally got my shit together and the ELM connector arrived, various fault codes coming up and loads for the BCM, so it’s possibly either the module is fucked or hopefully a bad connection. In the meantime leaving the ELM in with the switch pointing down seems to eradicate all the symptoms. Worst case I’ll just drive about with that plugged in and I can see how fast I’m going. No codes recorded for the instrument cluster, which is odd because I’ve the same faults and ECU Testing were Adam Ant that it was the cluster that was faulty...

[Fraz]

How bizarre. Although potentially just a wiring fault and fixable! 

[sierraman]

So as we speak I’m driving it with the ELM plugged in and it on with the toggle switched down and it’s working fine. What the fuck is that about?

[Fraz]

That is quite bizarre.

 

Taking a punt it appears the elm module is solving whatever error is in either the high or low canbus system.

 

What faults does forscan actually list? 

[sierraman]

Various DTC about airbag, ABS and the hvac and loads about the BCM module, I’m thinking maybe they’re on the same port on the BCM, maybe there’s corrosion on the pins. 

[Fraz]

Any no communication errors?

 

Be interesting to see what the auto spark says. Without wiring diagrams it’ll be hard to diagnose. 
 

If you did, you could pick one fault to try and diagnose and I’d bet it’d sort the  lot out. 
 

I had a Jeep Patriot with similar, lots of weird faults and quirky things happening. Lots of codes but one with a circuit fault. Traced a broken corroded wire in the middle of a loom and boom. All gone 

[Fraz]

Ecto1 received some new callipers today. Yay

its nice to work on a car which doesn’t fight you with rust.

[sierraman]

Sorted the issue out. It was the trailer CANBUS interface module. Unplugged it and it’s working ok again. Discovered this purely by chance as a mate had the same issue. 

[Fraz]

Crazy but glad it’s a free fix.

 

Curious what faults the dash repair mob identified and fixed tho

[sierraman]

14 minutes ago, Fraz said:

Crazy but glad it’s a free fix.

 

Curious what faults the dash repair mob identified and fixed tho

None I suspect. I’m guessing this is why the dash worked when the ELM427 was switched across to the bottom setting that covers the ancillary circuits. One to watch perhaps if you’ve a modern fitted with a towbar 

[Faker]

Mondeo is letting in buckets of water. Boot carpet and rear footwell are saturated... 

[sierraman]

1 hour ago, Faker said:

Mondeo is letting in buckets of water. Boot carpet and rear footwell are saturated... 

I had that, it was the water sitting in the sills round the tailgate then coming in round the seal. Bit of silicone sorted it out. Mondeo factory standard water leak.

[sierraman]

Just rolled over 100k today. Treat it to a run up the M18 to clear the DPF and a 300ml dose of CT60. Treat ‘em mean keep ‘em keen. 

[Split_Pin]

My Neice-in law is looking to move her MK4 1.8 TDCi on. KC57NUW for reference.

She said she was offered £540 by WBAC  last year which seemed a bit cheap however I didn't realise until I checked that  the MOT expired in November. 

Other than it is blue, I know very little about it. She will be over tomorrow with my wife's other friends for a visit to the garden for my sons birthday so I'll ask more then.

I was half thinking, if it was really cheap, e.g £250 and it still goes OK, to buy it and stick it in for a test.......

[sierraman]

125k is the wet belt time. Big job, definitely doable just loads of bits to take off. That said if it’s an old beater just run it till the belt goes.

[warren t claim]

On 4/10/2021 at 9:48 PM, sierraman said:

125k is the wet belt time. Big job, definitely doable just loads of bits to take off. That said if it’s an old beater just run it till the belt goes.

A point to ponder is the wet belt on Millie didn't shit itself until about 430,000 miles. It there a Ford designated wet belt replacement interval? I can't imagine anyone bothering with a belt swap when for no more aggro they could've fitted her with a chain? Could the original belt have really lasted 430,000 miles???

[sierraman]

9 hours ago, warren t claim said:

A point to ponder is the wet belt on Millie didn't shit itself until about 430,000 miles. It there a Ford designated wet belt replacement interval? I can't imagine anyone bothering with a belt swap when for no more aggro they could've fitted her with a chain? Could the original belt have really lasted 430,000 miles???

Some will do 400k on it, some will do 80k. I don’t know the exact science behind it but some say lack of servicing reduces belt life and using engine flush is a no-no, for some reason this damages the belt. For what it’s worth, if you’ve got the top belt off, another few hours work to take the associated back plates off and the pulleys, ac pump etc it’s worth fitting a new lower belt cassette. 

[Out Run]

I've had DPF and EML woes of late. EML was bitching about MAP and AFM, so I cleaned them, replaced the pipercross filter inside of the airbox for a Mahle paper one and still the light kept returning.

When investigating my DPF issues - to check if vaporiser fuse was okay - I realised I had left the AFM unplugged, following filter replacement...

Re the DPF, the car went into limp mode and when I checked it on Forscan, it said conditions unsuitable for regen. I took it for a motorway run, monitoring the DPF values and exhaust temps and it just shot up and up.

I removed the DPF from the car, snapping one exhaust fastener and choosing to cut off and drill out the other three. I pressure washed the filter. I didn't really note much shit coming out of it, but what was apprent was that even the water was struggling to pass through, initially. I thought the car was down on power, maybe it was.

Stuck it back on, cleared the DTCs and EML and checked the new level with ignition on. 7.4% soot load, apparently. Quite an improvent over 180odd%.

I took it for an 85 mile motorway run and monitored the live values again. 26.86% on the soot load and 45% DPF load, after that. I believe they regen at 60 or is ot 90% DPF load? I read it once, who knows?

I pressed the car back into service for the daily commute  and awaited a regen. It decided to do one today, at 123 miles.

14.57 DPF load and 24% soot load after that, so it says. Happy with that.

Hopefully it behaves. If not, at least it is easy to drop and clean again/gut, now it is nutted and bolted in place.

I forgot to say, I did attempt a static regen before removal. The process completed, but it said the soot load was too high.

[warren t claim]

I don't remember a static regen ever working on any of mine.

[Out Run]

37 minutes ago, warren t claim said:

I don't remember a static regen ever working on any of mine.

I know what you mean. I did manage a successful one on my PFL 2.0 TX, but they often seem to be a waste of time!

[wuvvum]

It's interesting how much difference there is in what you can and can't do with Forscan between earlier and later cars.

[twosmoke300]

A static regen won’t work if the soot level is that high . This is because the risk of fire is too high due to high soot content and no airflow to cool the dpf . What you can do is tell the ecu it’s had a new dpf then do a static regen but at your own risk .

Also the car doesn’t adjust soot content based on the pressure sensor reading . The soot content is calculated based on mileage and driving patterns . This is why when a dpf clogs there is usually another reason that is making the engine run dirtier than it should do . 
The pressure sensor is only really an emergency/ safety sensor which alerts the ecu of potential dpf blockage which could be from soot or ash .

[sierraman]

So basically, it’s either prevent it happening by giving it a good beasting every now and then up the motorway or end up replacing it? 

Mare the trailing arm bolts on these as prone to seizing in the sleeve as the Focus Mk2?

[Out Run]

11 hours ago, twosmoke300 said:

A static regen won’t work if the soot level is that high . This is because the risk of fire is too high due to high soot content and no airflow to cool the dpf . What you can do is tell the ecu it’s had a new dpf then do a static regen but at your own risk .

Also the car doesn’t adjust soot content based on the pressure sensor reading . The soot content is calculated based on mileage and driving patterns . This is why when a dpf clogs there is usually another reason that is making the engine run dirtier than it should do . 
The pressure sensor is only really an emergency/ safety sensor which alerts the ecu of potential dpf blockage which could be from soot or ash .

I did reset the values and risk an inferno. 😂

This will get smashed and mapped out in the future, I reckon*
 

 

*Not really, Greta 👀 

[wuvvum]

7 hours ago, twosmoke300 said:

A static regen won’t work if the soot level is that high . This is because the risk of fire is too high due to high soot content and no airflow to cool the dpf . What you can do is tell the ecu it’s had a new dpf then do a static regen but at your own risk .

Also the car doesn’t adjust soot content based on the pressure sensor reading . The soot content is calculated based on mileage and driving patterns . This is why when a dpf clogs there is usually another reason that is making the engine run dirtier than it should do . 
The pressure sensor is only really an emergency/ safety sensor which alerts the ecu of potential dpf blockage which could be from soot or ash .

When I had the trouble on mine with it constantly trying to regen, I plugged in Forscan and reset the DPF learned values, which I assume is the equivalent of telling it it's had a new DPF (in my case it actually had, but whoever fitted it forgot to tell the car).  When I did the reset Forscan flashed up a warning basically saying "if you do this you can't then do a static regen or your car will catch fire" - although if the DPF is actually fairly new I would have thought the risk of it overheating to that point would be minimal?