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AS Communal MK4&5 Mondeo Thread


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Posted

It does get better when it’s properly warmer through. You can definitely tell when it’s due to regen, it gets a bit grumpy. Once it’s had a good rogering it cheers up immensely. A bit like me. 

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Posted
57 minutes ago, Cord Fourteener said:

To be honest I'm finding it pretty gutless, or at least slow to spool up and do anything, maybe that's just mine. 

I think you've been spoilt by your Passat! :-P As I thought it quite pokey - although comparing it with the 95bhp LT, or the 115bhp iLoad probably skews my judgment!

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Posted
1 hour ago, Cord Fourteener said:

In our mk4 Mondeos they are 140ps rather than 120, not sure if engine is different or whether it's just turned up on the Mondeo, I know the Citroen engines of the same era made 140ps.

To be honest I'm finding it pretty gutless, or at least slow to spool up and do anything, maybe that's just mine. 

Edit: confusingly Chez Fourteener has two of them, one does feel slightly less lethargic perhaps, but as its Wifeys i don't drive it much so I might be imagining the difference,  mine is an estate so its a bit heavier. 

Never found mine slow,in fact a few that have traveled in it/driven it have commented on how well it goes.

Those with the DPF mapped out and EGR blanked go very well apparently,and get a few extra empeegees.

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Posted

Yes I'm comparing my new Mondeo 140ps and it's steady unrolling of boost pressure with my recently sold Passat 1.9tdi which somebody has remapped at some point. 

The Mondeo is better in every way apart from having to plan power increases ahead of time, and not having a full size spare wheel. 

The Passat was so lovable because when you ask for power it kicks you in the back, then as it builds boost it keeps kicking you. 

But the Mondeo is great in all other respects really.

Posted
51 minutes ago, junkyarddog said:

Never found mine slow,in fact a few that have traveled in it/driven it have commented on how well it goes.

Those with the DPF mapped out and EGR blanked go very well apparently,and get a few extra empeegees.

I dare say the Passat had its egr blanked, though I never checked. 

The Mondeo has got some power for sure, it's definitely got taller gears so it feels less raucous but you get to higher speeds, once its on boost. 

 

Posted
1 minute ago, Cord Fourteener said:

I dare say the Passat had its egr blanked, though I never checked.

Of course it did,it really is worth doing it on the Mondeo too,really helps with low down take off from standstill.

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, junkyarddog said:

Of course it did,it really is worth doing it on the Mondeo too,really helps with low down take off from standstill.

 

I can feel a drag race coming on here! 🤣

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Posted

I really like my 2.0 petrol.  30mpg is about right and it's a quiet, reliable engine.

Most importantly for me, it doesn't have a DPF, which I fell out with when one killed the D5 engine in my Volvo.  The 2.0 PSA diesel doesn't seem to cause many problems so far as I know, so it's probably not a bad choice either.

Anyway. Seat foams! 

My driver's seat squab's side bolster has lost its bounce and is quite uncomfortable. Anyone else had this problem? New foams appear to be unavailable so I am undecided whether to swap it with the passenger side one or purchase some high density foam and sculpt a replacement side piece with my reciprocating saw.  How did you fix yours?

 

 

 

 

Posted

30mpg in this day and age is pretty dire when the diesel would even if driven like a madman give 45mpg. The 1.6 diesel is worth a consideration, not as gutless as you’d think.

Posted
9 hours ago, sierraman said:

I can feel a drag race coming on here! 🤣

Right, I'm going to race prepare the mondeo.

Jeeves, pass my the go-faster stripes and my brown trousers. 

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Posted

Just off to plug in the laptop and then unplug the battery in the vain hope that it resets and the problem goes away (yup! I just saw a flying pig)

Car is a 2.0 TDCI 2011 tit spec

The problem:

Doors solonoids activate to lock when the close button is pressed on the fob. The system then nearly instantly opens all locks. I assume that there is a sensor problem somewhere. Info screen says front doors and tailgate are open when sat inside with all of them physically shut.  Battery seems strong as the car starts on the button.

Any gems of wisdom from the hive mind?

.

Posted

In the boot there is a fuse and relay box,mine wasn't opening the doors on the left hand side,but a wiggle on the relays got it working again.

May be worth trying them.

Posted

I have the opposite problem on our hatchback, the rear ns passenger door doesn't lock. 

I seem to remember the problem being the central locking motors getting mucked up and needing a long weekend on the contact cleaner. 

It's on the to-do list. 

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Posted
1 hour ago, billy_bunter said:

Just off to plug in the laptop and then unplug the battery in the vain hope that it resets and the problem goes away (yup! I just saw a flying pig)

Car is a 2.0 TDCI 2011 tit spec

The problem:

Doors solonoids activate to lock when the close button is pressed on the fob. The system then nearly instantly opens all locks. I assume that there is a sensor problem somewhere. Info screen says front doors and tailgate are open when sat inside with all of them physically shut.  Battery seems strong as the car starts on the button.

Any gems of wisdom from the hive mind?

.

Damp in door solenoids. You’ll probably find come winter it won’t lock/unlock. Easy enough to find which door it is then strip door down and dry the solenoid out.

Posted
23 hours ago, Cord Fourteener said:

I have the opposite problem on our hatchback, the rear ns passenger door doesn't lock. 

I seem to remember the problem being the central locking motors getting mucked up and needing a long weekend on the contact cleaner. 

It's on the to-do list. 

That's a common taxi fault due to the NSR door being the most used.

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Posted

The hatchback is failing regens again, on a route the estate regenerated. I know traffic and general enthusiasm on the throttle can affect it all, but I'm starting to wonder if there's more going on. 

Also we got a P003A below expected current fault on the hatchback, but only for one instance the other day, its not come back today. 

Head scratching is going on. 

Posted

To save your sanity I’d look at the DPF sensors first off. Forscan will tell you the live data but this is only any use if you know what parameters to expect. 

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Posted
1 hour ago, sierraman said:

To save your sanity I’d look at the DPF sensors first off. Forscan will tell you the live data but this is only any use if you know what parameters to expect. 

OK, only I've no idea where to even start tbh.

I'll have to look at step by step how to guides on the Internet!

Posted
4 minutes ago, Cord Fourteener said:

OK, only I've no idea where to even start tbh.

I'll have to look at step by step how to guides on the Internet!

Get car on ramp and you can easily see the sensors. 

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Posted

I guess you could compare values with the black one (assuming that is all working OK) - see, it makes sense to have two Mondeos!

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Posted

Done my first brim test. 400 miles. 33 mpg.

I'm hoping its the knackered thermostat that is causing such crap mpgees.

Posted
3 hours ago, sierraman said:

Get car on ramp and you can easily see the sensors. 

First problem is I don't know what I'm looking at, second problem is that I don't have a ramp!

It might have to be a garage job again, the car needs to be on the road while I service the Volvo, which also needs precious time to do!

Posted
59 minutes ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Done my first brim test. 400 miles. 33 mpg.

I'm hoping its the knackered thermostat that is causing such crap mpgees.

That’s dreadful, the sort of economy you’d expect from the 2.0 petrol

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Posted
1 hour ago, mat_the_cat said:

I guess you could compare values with the black one (assuming that is all working OK) - see, it makes sense to have two Mondeos!

Yes that's a plus point of having two of the fuckers 😅

Posted
Just now, Cord Fourteener said:

First problem is I don't know what I'm looking at, second problem is that I don't have a ramp!

It might have to be a garage job again, the car needs to be on the road while I service the Volvo, which also needs precious time to do!

Wouldn’t waste time at the garage. Many of them will know from the get go they can’t sort it but will have £50 off you to run through what you already know.

Posted

In general the dpf control is looking at a pressure level before and after the dpf, deriving a soot level from that and deciding when to regen.

Why the regen fails could be for various reasons but as you have a working one you could drive it round while it does a regen and log the pressures, I assume that it kicks one off when the pressure increase across the dpf is say 100mbar (made up number) and by the time it burns the shite off it's down to say 10mbar.

If the values on the one that is misbehaving are in the same general region then your sensors are probably ok, if the sensors or maybe the pipes to them depending on type are dodgy you could get pressure readings that drop out or are implausible and the car will panic and stop trying to do a regen as firing 650 degree exhaust gas out through a faulty dpf is not a great emissions reduction strategy.

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Posted

Will try it. 

But in on holiday this week in the estate so it won't be until in home!

Posted
On 10/23/2021 at 2:08 PM, sierraman said:

Damp in door solenoids. You’ll probably find come winter it won’t lock/unlock. Easy enough to find which door it is then strip door down and dry the solenoid out.

Anyway to establish which one door/solenoid now! The car is permanently open :-)

Posted

This may seem a silly question but how do I get a replacement key for locking wheel nuts?
I have a 58 plate Mondeo 1.8 Diesel Zetec, I have owned it since 2011 when I bought it from Blackbush Auctions. I used it for work for 5 years as we could opt out of the Company car scheme in my previous job. It has not had much use in the last 5 years partly due to having the engine management light on and going into limp mode. 
The car is sat on four good Goodyear efficient grips and they are the same size as those on my Mercedes so I thought I would get them swapped over. When I went to undo the wheel nuts the key fell apart inside, I am not sure if it shows in the picture but it is no use. 
image.thumb.jpeg.6f928ca215440d33e78c378a296f0b05.jpeg
image.thumb.jpeg.da0960e0836cc72f249ad81d439b57f3.jpeg
 

I am aware I have rambled a bit but was also going to ask if anyone would be interested in this car as a project or parts source or should I just scrap it for £300 or so that I was offered. For all the time it was in use it was a reliable car but has not liked being stood, I serviced it regularly with genuine Ford parts and it had a Ford timing belt at 100,000, now on 143,000 from memory and had new front discs and new pads front and rear just before coming off the road.  I know the sensible answer is scrap it but if anyone is interested in it let me know.

Posted

I once ordered a replacement key from the manufacturer, which in my case was McGard.  I suspect yours are as from the same place because they look pretty similar to what I had. 

You may be better off just welding a nut to the locking wheel bolts to remove them and then replacing them with ordinary ones. I drilled the head off one of mine when it wouldn't undo but it's not a course of action I'd particularly recommend. They're hardened, which makes drilling them rather difficult, and the keys are made of shit metal (as you have discovered)

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